Two 8B+ boulders for Katie Lamb

© Ethan Salvo

Katie Lamb has made ascents of two 8B+ boulders. 

Whilst only sharing the news yesterday, the ascents actually came months ago. In September, she climbed Deadlift, 8B+, at Grand Wall Boulders in Squamish, before heading to Mizugaki, Japan, where she made a repeat of Decided, 8B+, in October.

The first of the boulders, Deadlift, was first climbed in 2020 by Tim Doyle, and has been touted as one of the best hard boulders in Squamish.

The climbing starts on a steep overhang, demanding powerful moves, good body tension, and technical toe hooks on small but positive holds.

Ben Harnden on Deadlift, 8B+

Once the steep climbing is over, the climber then faces a 7A+ top out (Big Dreams (V7)) that, whilst easier, is high and intimidating. Lamb's ascent is thought to be the first female ascent.

The second of the boulders, Decided, saw its first ascent at the hands of Toru Nakajima, and has since seen ascents from some of Japan's strongest climbers, including Ryuichi Murai, and Tomoa Narasaki, whose flash of the boulder ranks as one of the world's hardest. 

Tomoa Narasaki flashing Decided, 8B+

Like Deadlift, Decided is a powerful and steep boulder, involving big moves off a high heel hook, a cut loose on small holds, and a dynamic finish. Again, Lamb's ascent is thought to be the first female ascent.

Sharing the news on Instagram, Lamb had this to say:

'September Squamish & October Mizugaki: forest dips that made me feel human amidst a weird and tough fall'.

'A fluke last go on Deadlift (V14) that did the trick after having no luck the year before, day and night at Decided (5段/V14) from the first leg in. Two places where I've learned a lot from watching the local scalers'.

These two boulders bring Lamb's total tally of 8B+ boulders to eight. This includes Spectre (V13), which she also logged at 8B+, saying it featured the 'hardest single move' she had ever done.

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Katie Lamb has is one of the world's strongest boulderers. In 2023, she became the first woman to climb 8C+/V16 with her ascent of Box Therapy, in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.

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6 Dec, 2023

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