UKC

Double repeat of Eternal Fall, E9, for James Taylor and Angus KilleNewsflash

© Angus Kille

Angus Kille and James Taylor have both made ascents of Mat Wright's route Eternal Fall (E8 6c), in the Ogwen Valley, Snowdonia. 

Mat Wright making the first ascent of the route in 2022.

The route, which could also be considered a highball 7B+/C boulder, climbs an overhanging shard above a horrendous drop.

Upon making the first ascent, Mat compared the route to short gritstone routes, saying 'it feels silly to propose a boulder grade since its situation makes for more of a solo, similar to Simbas Pride (E8 6b) but with a worse landing'.

Angus shared news of his and James' ascents on Instagram, and suggested that the route could perhaps be closer to E8, with Mat subsequently agreeing that the grade could be E8 if the landing was padded out enough.

Speaking on Instagram, Angus said:

'This is Eternal Fall, a micro route from Mat Wright by the river below Ogwen Cottage'.

'It's like a highball boulder problem with a terrible landing (you can see Hazel and Tom trying to spot). Come off at the top and you might just end up riding down the waterfall'.


'I don't know how you go about grading this sort of thing, but even with a tonne of pads it felt sketchy! Good effort James Taylor for sending too.'

Angus is recently back from a US trip during which he made ascents of both The Free Hallucinogen Wall (5.13c), in Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and El Niño (Pineapple Express variation) (5.13c) on El Capitan. You can read our interviews about these ascents below.


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Yeah but when are we gonna see a repeat of sparrow at cratcliffe? 👀

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