UKC

Burden of Dreams, 9A, receives fourth ascent

© Elias Iagnemma

Elias Iagnemma has made the fourth ascent of Burden of Dreams (f9A), in Lappnor, Finland.

In making the ascent, Iagnemma becomes just the eleventh person to have climbed the grade.

Whilst all previous ascensionists have used a relatively straightforward beta, Iagnemma has opted for a completely different beta throughout his time on Burden.

After doing the first move the same way that everyone else has, Iagnemma then places a left heel-hook next to his left hand. Then, instead of matching hands on the right edge, he goes to an intermediate hold with his left hand, and then crosses through with his left hand to the penultimate hold. 

Finally, he brings his right hand back in front of his chest to the intermediate hold, releases the heel hook, adjusts his feet, matches the penultimate hold, and then launches for the final edge with his left hand, resulting in a wild swing that takes him away from the rock, and can only be stopped by a co-ordinated match with the right hand.

Whilst Iagnemma's beta looks far more complicated than that opted for by Hukkataival and others, in terms of the moves required, the two approaches aren't all that dissimilar. 

For Hukkataival and Bosi's ascents, for example, both climbers make six hand moves, with the fifth being the move to the boulder's lip, and the sixth being a relatively easy match.

Iagnemma's approach requires just one additional hand move, however both the sixth and seventh moves appear droppable.

Yet whilst Iagnemma's beta make look more demanding on the fingers, and is likely a lower percentage approach, it could also be less demanding on the feet and the core. Compared to the six foot moves required for Bosi's ascent - the fourth of which represented the crux for Bosi - Iagnemma's approach requires just four, or five if you include releasing the heel hook.

Either way, Burden of Dreams has a fourth ascensionist. Here's what he had to say on social media:

'Burden of Dreams, 9A, V17, finally is done!'

'What a night and what a fight. I have no words to describe all of this. The dream come true'.

'A special thanks to my wife Stefania Colomba and my family for believing in me and supporting me in this incredible process'.

Iagnemma has made two ascents at 8C+, with the most recent one coming more than two years ago. A film about his ascent of Burden of Dreams is due to come out in the coming months, you can watch a short documentary about his time on the boulder here:


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26 Mar

Seems repeats of this route is like waiting on buses.

Impressive belief in his own beta.

26 Mar

Nicely done!

Still no takers for Burden of Wet Dreams (Project)?

27 Mar

3 repeats of Burden? 4 repeats of Alphane? I guess both are soft....

27 Mar

Hasn't everyone who has repeated burden used a replica first? Definitely seems to make the process easier

Got any pics of this Steve?

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