'Folk will always make comparisons, but the main comparison should be in quality, and in this, they are all amazing!'

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Steve McClure has made the second ascent of Yma o Hyd (E10 7a), James McHaffie's direct start to Mission Impossible (E9 7a) at  Gallt Yr Ogof in Conwy, North Wales.

The route, which was established just under a month ago, follows a thin seam up to a 'Rose' cross-through move, before joining Mission Impossible at its crux. You can read our news report of the First Ascent, with comments from James, below:

We got in touch with Steve to find out more:

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Congratulations on the second ascent of Yma O Hyd! It was only six months ago that you repeated Mission Impossible - when did you first hear about the potential for a direct start, and at what point did you decide to give it a go?

Mission Impossible had been on my 'must try' list for absolutely years, having a fairly unique set of ingredients that inspire; high mountain route, properly hard, and not so dangerous. It is protected by decent cams and a fair few in-situ pegs. On an RCI (rock-climbing-instructor) course at PYB (Plas-Y-Brenin) this May the weather was perfect, and I spent an evening after the course on abseil looking at Mission, and then another evening a few days later where I got the headpoint. Caff was delivering the course, and it was he that was most motivated to go up as he was at that point trying his route, Ty Pwmpty.

Ty Pwmpty is a counter diagonal to Mission, crossing Mission and leading into the E7 Heart of Stone. As Caff said, this was basically the warmup for the main event, which would basically be 'Mission Direct'.

In recent years there have been two routes that have stood out head and shoulders above the rest, routes where I was totally drawn in. They had everything I was looking for, beautiful views in a beautiful mountain environment and all that goes with that; the fresh air, the smell of the moss, that mist that rolls in, the walk ins and the perfect quiet. Plus both routes were clearly absolutely amazing, as well as seemingly at a level that was gonna be a real challenge (but importantly I figured I could manage). Both also had the extra dimension that top climbers I hugely respect were actively trying to bring them to life, giving the routes character, and it was awesome to watch their journey unfold, and then have my chance to get involved.

The first was Lexicon, Neil Gresham's mega route on Pavey, with the added interest of 'that' run out above the gear which was so captivating; "so just what happens if you fall off the last move? (we still don't know!)"

And now the second route was to become Yma O Hyd. As soon as I saw Caff on the moves I knew this was the route I was most motivated to do over any other route in the UK (or world actually!)

How does the direct start change the route? Both in terms of gear and in terms of the moves, and the demands that they place on your body!

Mission and Ty Pwmpty are almost opposites of each other, with the first half of Mission being fairly amenable to a shake, and then considerably harder all the way to the top. Ty Pwmpty is desperate straight off the deck all the way to the Mission shake, and then eases off for the second half (though is still really pumpy as it joins the E7 at its crux).

So Yma O Hyd is a totally different ball game, arriving at the shake really quite blown. The lower moves are wild and long and very physical indeed, you hit the shake totally out of breath which is unusual, normally it's the fingers and forearms that are mostly hammered. The route is hugely about recovery at that shake as the top of Mission is intense and bouldery.

On Instagram you mentioned a 'comedy of errors' that saw you sitting on the rope three feet from the top, what's the story there?

As soon as Caff made the first ascent in mid September I came over for a look, with an utterly freezing day complete with gale force winds and full mist billowing past. It was hardcore, but I managed to familiarise myself with the moves and somehow avoid frost-bite!

Next day I was back with Zippy, Emma Twyford and Darren McMaster, all of us trying routes on this amazing face. First effort got me really high, and second got me right to the last move. Basically, there is a good hold about three foot from the top. From this hold there is one move, it's a tad tricky, and it has been fallen off, so most protect with a good cam (as its pretty run-out there). When I did Mission, I actually forgot the cam but pressed on anyway and it was fine.

On Yma O Hyd I arrived at the good hold feeling really solid. I actually congratulated myself, there was no way I was falling off! Still, I had the cam so just in case I placed it. I'd not done this before but seemed a simple task of using a decent left hand hold and a good right foot lock to place the cam above the jug… I placed it, clipped the rope, and at that moment my right foot slipped. No problem, I reached back into the jug, but the slight rope tension pulled the cam tape over the jug. I could not get my right hand back on properly so was trying to shuffle it under the tape when my left hand pinged off! So there I was just slumped on the rope thinking 'did that really just happen?'

I had a moment of being pissed off… and then reminded myself of how good this route is, how amazing the place is. I get to have another go. A proper go too, not just doing it again, but really trying and wanting it. A gift, maybe, to fall off at the end! (well, at least that's what I told myself).

Talk us through the successful attempt. What were the conditions like on the route? It's hard to imagine that they were ideal!

So maybe it was cool to have more time on the route, but I still wanted it this year, and to be honest it was not looking likely. An unexpected series of events led to a work free window which aligned with a rare rain free window and Darren also being psyched to go back up (he's close to Mission). However, it was never going to be 'comfortable', and indeed it was freezing, with warming up by climbing almost impossible. Instead it involved a load of running around, press-ups and pull-ups and mini boulders wearing just about every item of clothing I own! Even then, cold hands were a given. The key was to be able to rest at the shake and get some blood back.

Upon arriving at the crag we found there were a few crucial holds seeping or having drips run onto them. Darren did a good job drying them up and the strong wind helped. It was perfect when I climbed it, but an hour later it was game over, with crucial holds sopping wet. It's probably game over for the year now… talk about a narrow window of opportunity!

Caff told us that 'physically, Yma O Hyd is the hardest E10 in the UK, with Rhapsody being the other route of that sport level but with a big run out'. How did the physical difficulty of the route compare to some of the other top-end trad routes you've climbed, such as Rhapsody and Lexicon?

Caff is probably right. As a sport route it would get a high grade. But this isn't a sport route. True, the upper section of Mission is mainly protected by pegs, but the first half is certainly trad, with big ground sweeping falls likely, onto clusters of micro-cams.

The gear is fairly OK, but it is small, and not bomber! Plus the first very hard moves are protected by gear just to the side. You don't place this on lead, but instead do a gnarly boulder problem to place some kit and clip in the rope and then down climb above a nasty landing. I spotted Caff when he did that, he then tested the kit by pulling on it, and promptly pulled it straight out… less than inspiring! Note: I didn't do this up/down climb before every effort, I don't think Caff did either. I'm not sure there is any need, though extreme purists may do!

Yma O Hyd is a chunk harder than Lexicon, but carries a different level of danger. It is similar to Rhapsody I guess, maybe a tad easier… to be honest I can't remember. Folk will always make comparisons, but the main comparison should be in quality, and in this, they are all amazing!

When you spoke to UKC after your ascent of Mission Impossible, you said that it had been top of your list for the year - so to have made an ascent of Yma O Hyd as well must feel like a nice bonus! Are there any other life-list routes that are on your radar currently, or are you just seeing where the climbing takes you?

I think I've just been seeing where climbing takes me since the early days of HVS on the North York Moors back when I was eight or nine years old and there was everything in the world to go at. The beauty of climbing is there are so many things to do, and I know my next 'must-try' route is just around the corner… though I just don't quite know what it is yet!