UKC

Dylan Chuat climbs Move, 9b/+

© Alexis Guérin/@alexx4034

Dylan Chuat has made an ascent of Move (9b+), in  Flatanger, Norway.

Dylan Chuat on Move, 9b/+  © Alexis Guérin/@alexx4034
© Alexis Guérin/@alexx4034

The route was established by Adam Ondra in the summer of 2013, when he described it as 'one of my hardest' routes, and gave it a grade of '9b/b+ or just HARD 9b'.

Seb Bouin made the first repeat in 2019, arguing that it was harder than both Nordic Marathon (9b+) and Change (9b+), both of which he felt deserved a slash grade of 9b/+.

Whilst both Ondra and Bouin climbed the route without knee-pads, subsequent ascensionists Alex Megos, Jorge Díaz-Rullo, Domen Škofic, and Chuat all used knee-pads, with Megos saying:

'I think Move was definitely upper end 9b (I'd give it 9b/+)... I climbed [Move] with two kneepads and at this point I'd like to give props to Adam Ondra for making the FA's of [Move] without kneepads. The actual crux of Move doesn't change for me, but to get to the crux is definitely easier with kneepads. Absolutely inspiring that Adam did the FA more than 10 years ago. He could have given it 9b+ without kneepads in my opinion'.

Chuat told UKC:

'Three years ago, I first discovered Flatanger. Back then, I climbed most of the 8c routes as well as Thor's Hammer (9a+). Since that trip, the idea of coming back has never left my mind. For me, Flatanger is a perfect crag: it feels like the most beautiful bouldering sections all gathered on fifty meters of overhang. Without a doubt, it's my favorite rock in the world'.

Dylan Chuat on Move, 9b/+  © Alexis Guérin/@alexx4034
© Alexis Guérin/@alexx4034

'This year, I decided it was time to take the next step. For a long time, I've wanted to try a 9b or harder route — a line that would truly push me to my limits. Until now, I had only tried climbs where I knew, from the very first attempt, that I would eventually succeed. But Move felt different: it's a logical, natural line that perfectly fits my vision of climbing. At this level, a 100% natural 9b or harder route is incredibly rare — almost nonexistent today — so choosing Move was obvious to me'.

'For my first real big climbing trip, I had planned three full months in Norway. Conditions were far from easy: almost a whole month was un-climbable due to heatwaves. I used that time to visit the Lofoten Islands with my girlfriend and to work as a route setter in Oslo. The weather was a constant challenge, but I never lost hope'.

Dylan Chuat on Move, 9b/+  © Alexis Guérin/@alexx4034
© Alexis Guérin/@alexx4034

'At the beginning, I quickly felt close to sending the route. But I soon realized I lacked the specific endurance required for the cave, and that long break away from Flatanger felt endless. At times, I even felt like I was wasting precious time. Still, once I came back, progress was fast: strong links, two very close redpoint attempts falling on the last crux… and finally, on my third serious try, everything clicked, and I sent the route'.

'I remember clipping the chains vividly. For a few seconds, I wasn't sure if I had really done the route or if it was just a long link. I didn't scream right away — I was in a pure flow state, carried entirely by the moment. But this time, it was real'.

'For me, this ascent is more than just a sporting achievement: it's the realization of years of dreams, missed trips, injuries, and doubts. It also feels like the first step of a new chapter. I want to go further, to take on more lines at this level and beyond. To make that possible, I'll need to free up more time and hopefully find the right support. But I believe this climb marks the beginning of a long journey ahead'.

Dylan Chuat on Move, 9b/+  © Alexis Guérin/@alexx4034
© Alexis Guérin/@alexx4034


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