John McCune


About

© Scarpa

Ireland
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I'm from Newry in Northern Ireland and grew up close to the Mourne mountains. I started climbing when I was 19 and got into trad. In Ireland, I ticked off many of the hard routes at Fairhead and in the Mournes, then started heading out to the alps to climb bigger Alpine routes. At this point, I thought a life working in the mountains could be fun and started working towards becoming a mountain guide.

I have always been very inspired by new routing and hard scary trad. I have added a lot hard first ascents across Ireland following soaring lines. Now I seem to do a bit of everything, but I still have a big passion for rock climbing especially in the mountains. I am currently living in Chamonix where I work as an IFMGA mountain Guide. I love my job as a guide leading clients up incredible mountains, and in the winter taking them freeride skiing, ice climbing, and ski mountaineering.


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Latest News & Articles

News posts and Articles featuring John

The whole team with Pascual the boat and and Luis the Gaucho.  © Will Sim

News British and Irish First Ascents in Chilean Patagonia

Will Sim, John Crook, John McCune and Paul Swail recently made the first ascent of the 1000m high East face of the south Avellano tower in Chilean Patagonia alongside two other significant new lines.

Following up perfect granite on the American Direct, with the Charpoua glacier below  © John McCune
Following up perfect granite on the American Direct, with the Charpoua glacier below  © John McCune

Article The American Direct - Up, Over & Round the Top

The Drus towers high and mighty over Chamonix. It's very pointy. The west face is an immense wall of granite. For me, staring up at the Drus from Chamonix is almost as memorising as staring up at El Cap from the meadow. Complex corner...

Colm Shannon shaking out before the crux sequence on the first ascent of 'The Jelly Situation' Fr 7c+/8a S1/2.  © Joshua Willett
Colm Shannon shaking out before the crux sequence on the first ascent of 'The Jelly Situation' Fr 7c+/8a S1/2.  © Joshua Willett

Feature Colm Shannon's Deserted DWS Heaven - Irish West Coast

It was almost three months ago when an amazing image popped up on John McCune's Instagram feed. "Jesus!" I thought. That looks stunning. And scary. That looks scary! Jack Geldard writes about recent some deep water soloing activity on...

John Mccune  © UKC News
John Mccune  © UKC News

Video Autumnal Headgames - Hard Trad in Northern Ireland

Today we have a video featuring a few routes from a blustery autumn in Northern Ireland, climbed by John...

John McCune high on the perfect granite of the upper wall of The Second Coming (E7 6b).   © Craig Hiller
John McCune high on the perfect granite of the upper wall of The Second Coming (E7 6b).   © Craig Hiller

News John McCune Climbs Ireland's Ultimate Granite Wall

The 'Holy Jesus Wall' is aptly named. Hidden away on the coast of the tiny island of Owey in Donegal and known to...


Latest Reviews for John's Sponsors

Reviews from the UKC editorial team

Approach shoes group test   © UKC Gear

Approach Shoes

Whether you're approaching a mountain crag or out on a scramble or via ferrata, an approach shoe will be lighter and more nimble than a boot, yet more supportive and technically capable than a running shoe. In this group test we check out ten mode...

The Vapour V, once bedded in, smears surprisingly well  © UKC Gear
The Vapour V, once bedded in, smears surprisingly well  © UKC Gear

Scarpa Vapour V

The original Vapour V came out in 2010, but the latest version has seen some big changes. This is very much a shoe of two halves, says Rob Greenwood, and not necessarily an improvement on the older models.

mountain boots group test  © UKC Gear
mountain boots group test  © UKC Gear

All Round B1-B2 Mountain Boots

Mountaineering involves all sorts of terrain, so a general mountain boot has to be an all-rounder. We look at eight models that should take you from summer Alps to snowy Munros, UK scrambles to low grade winter climbs.

ISPO 2019 top 10 montage  © Nick Brown
ISPO 2019 top 10 montage  © Nick Brown

ISPO 2019 - Best in Show

The annual ISPO outdoor trade show has just wrapped up for 2019. Among the many new products shown to us by attending brands, a number...

Entries within the Performance Rock Shoe Group Test  © UKC Gear
Entries within the Performance Rock Shoe Group Test  © UKC Gear

Performance Rock Shoes

'Performance' is a huge category, so with UK sport climbing in mind we've narrowed the focus of this review to down-turned, supportive...

SL Active montage  © Dan Bailey
SL Active montage  © Dan Bailey

Scarpa's New SL Active Boot

Scarpa's SL boot is 35 this year. A lot has changed in the outdoor world since then; now in its ninth version, has the new SL Active...

A sturdy shoe that should last a good long time  © Dan Bailey
A sturdy shoe that should last a good long time  © Dan Bailey

Scarpa Mescalito Approach Shoes

A robust and comfy shoe, the Mescalito should see you right for years of hillwalks, scrambles and crag approaches, says Martin...


Latest News from John's Sponsors

Annoucements direct from manufacturers

Phantom Tech  © Scarpa

Scarpa Phantom Tech

The Phantom Tech is a super light, technically precise, gaitered boot for cold weather mountaineering and ice climbing. The new waterproof gaiter design uses PU Tek technology to create a lightweight but extremely durable outer with a high degree ...

OutDoor 2019 - Footwear  © UKC
OutDoor 2019 - Footwear  © UKC

OutDoor 2019 - New Climbing Shoes and Footwear

We're just back from the annual summer gear-fest that is the OutDoor trade show. As Europe sweltered in the heat the world's outdoor industry gathered in Munich to network, drink beer and showcase their shiny new stuff. For us it's a great...

ZG Thumbnail  © Scarpa
ZG Thumbnail  © Scarpa

The Scarpa Zero Gravity Collection

The Zero Gravity (ZG) family of product represents a new class of product for Scarpa, designed around a fluid and dynamic rolling gait concept and sits alongside the traditional hiking range. The core of the ZG range is a new last shape (called TRM)...

Instinct VS WMN  © Scarpa
Instinct VS WMN  © Scarpa

Scarpa - Women's Collection: Instinct VSRW, Maestro, Vapor, Arpia

For 2019 Scarpa has released three new women's specific climbing shoes, with an adapted...

Arpia  © Scarpa
Arpia  © Scarpa

Scarpa - Arpia and Vapour V

The Arpia is especially designed for climbers who want to step up to their first high performance shoe. It combines performance...

ispo 2019 Footwear and Packs  © UKC
ispo 2019 Footwear and Packs  © UKC

ISPO 2019 - New Footwear and Packs

The annual ISPO trade show, which brings the world's outdoor industry together under one roof (or a series of gigantic...

OutDoor 2018 - Rock Shoes and Footwear  © Nick Brown - UKC
OutDoor 2018 - Rock Shoes and Footwear  © Nick Brown - UKC

OutDoor 2018 - Rock Shoes and Footwear

The UKC/UKH team have just returned from the final OutDoor show at Friedrichshafen. We saw hundreds of innovative,...