That afternoon we flew by helicopter into the Helmet-Robson col at the base of Fuhrer Ridge (IV 5.4, 2500m, Carlson-Hainsworth-Fuhrer, 1938) to avoid the twenty-seven kilometer trek. Steve had made the approach a number of times before and didn't want to chance the traverse under The Mist Icefall, a dangerously active serac, again. We left the col (10,200') at 4:30 a.m. on May 25 and descended the Mist Glacier to 8,000 feet, where our line on the Emperor Face began.
We found excellent, firm ice conditions on our route...."
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