Steck Solos Matterhorn North Face in 1: 56

by Dougald MacDonald Climbing magazine Jan/2009
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Sunrise over the Matterhorn North Face, 114 kbclick to enlarge (© Jon Griffith)
The Swiss climber Ueli Steck has climbed the north face of the Matterhorn by the Schmid Route in 1 hour 56 minutes. The ascent comes about three weeks after Steck soloed the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours 21 minutes, via the Colton-MacIntyre Route, and less than a year after he climbed the classic route on the north face of the Eiger in 2 hours 47 minutes.

The Schmid Route (1,000 meters, ED1), originally climbed in 1931, was the first line on the north face of Switzerland's iconic mountain.

Read the full report by Dougald MacDonald at

A Swiss television report on the climb (in German), complete with remarkable helicopter footage, can be viewed below.

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