UKC

The coolest ice I've ever seen or climbed, anywhere in the world.

© Will Gadd
Spray On, 30M, WI10, Helmcken Falls, BC. FA Will Gadd, Tim Emmett, January 29, 2010.
"Not one single drytool move in the whole pitch; pull up, lock off, work for a placement. Just like normal ice but on a 45-degree wall. So much fun!"
Can you say steep? Spray On, 30M, WI10, Helmcken Falls, BC. FA Will Gadd, Tim Emmet, January 29, 2010.

"I'm just back home after climbing the coolest ice I've ever seen or climbed, anywhere in the world" writes Will Gadd on his blog gravsports.blogspot.com

Using the internet Will Gadd has been peering into his computer screen looking for an ice version of Klondike for the last decade, and he found it at Helmcken Falls in Wells Gray Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Helmcken Falls is a "is a stunning, complete bad-ass of a waterfall." A river falls 141M (about 500 feet) over a 45-degree wall of compact volcanic rock and the spray from the waterfalls covers the wall in icy blobs, none good enough for a decent ice screw. The ascent, placing bolts on the lead, took a couple of days and was not without incident, uhhh! meaning falls.

You can read the full epic tale, with photos and musings on the grade at gravsports.blogspot.com

photo
Spray On, 30M, WI10, Helmcken Falls, BC. FA Will Gadd, Tim Emmett, January 29, 2010
© Will Gadd

Tim told UKClimbing.com just before he went to bed that we may have more photos and video later.

Tim Emmet is sponsored by Mountain Hardwear, Adidas Eyewear, AlpBase.com, Yamgo, Salomon and Five Ten
Will is sponsored by Red Bull, Arc'teryx, Scarpa, Black Diamond.

Location of Helmcken Falls in Wells Gray Provincial Park, BC, Canada.


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1 Feb, 2010
Zoom out.
1 Feb, 2010
Presumably the bolts will disappear under the ice the next time the route forms? So I'm guessing that anybody wanting to make a second ascent would have to go through the whole aiding on axes malarkey to clean the ice off the bolts prior to having a go? I'm just curious, I'm definitely not planning a trip!
2 Feb, 2010
The interesting thing is that according to will's blog this is only really an opening gambit. Not really a full route yet. Just that when they went back on the third day the temperature had risen & it was nigh on suicidal going into the cave let alone climbing there. So depending on how the rest of the winter goes expect more news about this or failing that there'll be more again next year. I know i for one am looking forward to hearing & seeing more about this place.
2 Feb, 2010
The picture on that blog gives some scale...that thing is massive!
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