Arco Rockmaster 2010

by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Jul/2010
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French climber Alizée Dufraisse competing in the women's finals at Arco 2010. , 191 kbFrench climber Alizée Dufraisse competing in the women's finals at Arco 2010.
© Jack Geldard / UKC

Stew Watson climbing his way to 12th place in the bouldering comp., 85 kbStew Watson climbing his way to 12th place in the bouldering comp.
© Jack Geldard / UKC
The picturesque town of Arco, Italy, was invaded by hordes of muscle-bound rock stars last weekend as the annual Rockmaster competition hit full flow.

The town plays permanent host to a huge competition stadium, which sits underneath towering limestone walls and next to the beautiful blue river. All the big names in competition climbing show up to try their luck in one of the most prestigious events in the world.

There are several aspects to the Rockmaster; the Lead competition, the Boulder competition, the Speed competition and my personal favourite - The Duel. The Duel comp is like a 'Speed Lead', similar to the Skymasters event in the UK. The routes are not easy (out and out speed competitions are more like running up ladders of jugs, on top rope) but in these 'Speed Lead' comps the routes are quite tough, the climbers are leading and a mistake can mean falling off, and therefore coming in last place. It makes for exciting watching.

As well as the climbing competitions, there are climbing awards - the Arco Rock Legends Awards. UKClimbing.com were asked to sit on the jury for this award ceremony and we were proud to play a part in this celebration of climbing achievement. The 2010 awards went to Adam Ondra (Salewa climbing award) and Akiyo Noguchi (La Sportiva competition award). This year also saw a new award, the Sector award for a lifetimes achievement in climbing and this went to local legend Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla.

To get a feel for the 'Speed Lead' Duel competition you can see Duel Winner Adam Ondra battle it out for first place with Canadian Sean McColl in this video:

Climbing for the UK were Stew Watson, Gaz Parry and Katherine Mills. All three were in the bouldering competition. Stew Watson put in a good performance despite the cripplingly high temperatures, making it in to the semi finals and coming in a very respectable 12th place. Gaz Parry, a former Arco winner, finished in 27th place and Katherine Mills came in joint 25th.

The top five competition results were:

Men Boulder Top 5:

RankLastnameFirstnameBirthyearNation
1LachatCédric1984SUI
2GelmanovRustam1987RUS
3HoriTsukuru1989JPN
4KaiserFrancois1993FRA
5FischhuberKilian1983AUT
6BecanKlemen1982SLO

Women Boulder Top 5:

RankLastnameFirstnameBirthyearNation
1StöhrAnna1988AUT
2ShalaginaOlga1983UKR
3NoguchiAkiyo1989JPN
4BibikOlga1976RUS
5GraftiauxChloé1987BEL
6MarkovicMina1987SLO

Men Lead Top 5:

RankLastnameFirstnameBirthyearNation
1Julian PuigblanqueRamón 1981ESP
2SchubertJakob1990AUT
3OndraAdam1993CZE
4AMMASachi1989JPN
5DesgrangesRomain1982FRA

Women Lead Top 5:

RankLastnameFirstnameBirthyearNation
1KimJain1988KOR
2PoschKatharina1994AUT
3EiterAngela1986AUT
4EyerAlexandra1981SUI
5SchranzChristine1988AUT

Photo Gallery - Arco Rockmaster 2010:

photo
The mens Lead Comp finalists: Usobiaga, McColl, Lachat, Desgranges, Amma, Schubert,...
© Jack Geldard / UKC
photo
The womens Lead Comp finalists: Ciavaldini, Schranz, Dufraisse, Markovic, Posch, Eiter,...
© Jack Geldard / UKC
Ramon Julian Puiblanque happy to win the men's Lead Comp , 66 kbRamon Julian Puiblanque happy to win the men's Lead Comp
Kim Jain with a big smile after winning the women's lead comp, 61 kbKim Jain with a big smile after winning the women's lead comp
Cedric Lachat giving all to win the men's boulder comp, 173 kbCedric Lachat giving all to win the men's boulder comp
The crowd spur on Angela Eiter as she climbs to third place in the women's lead comp., 163 kbThe crowd spur on Angela Eiter as she climbs to third place in the women's lead comp.
Adam Ondra takes the Salewa award at Arco in 2010, 173 kbAdam Ondra takes the Salewa award at Arco in 2010
Akiyo Noguchi takes the La Sportiva award at Arco in 2010, 205 kbAkiyo Noguchi takes the La Sportiva award at Arco in 2010
Kim Jain points the crux out to the runners up., 169 kbKim Jain points the crux out to the runners up.
First and second place Puiblanque and Schubert shake hands as Ondra looks on., 158 kbFirst and second place Puiblanque and Schubert shake hands as Ondra looks on.

 

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