Continuing their quest to free the great classics of the Eiger, Robert Jasper and Roger Schaeli have more or less followed the John Harlin Route, the original direttissima on the North Face, at M8- and 7a.
The German-Swiss pair spent three days in late September climbing the route as far as the Spider high on the face.
To this point the rock is generally considered to be quite good, but above, where it moves up right to a smaller ice patch named the Fly and then through the final steep barrier to gain the summit icefield, it is quite loose, with difficulties originally graded V+ and A1.
Jasper and Schaeli chose to avoid this and take a faster exit via the top section of the classic 1938 Route, reaching the top late in the evening...
13 year-old Leo Skinner from South Wales has ticked Butch Cassidy 8A at Dinas Rock, the day after his 13th birthday. Leo has been... Read more
Toshi Takeuchi has made the first ascent of Kuzan at Mie in Japan. Toshi, who has climbed several ~8C's calls this hard for the... Read more
We recently reported that Jeff Lowe's route Metanoia on the Eiger North Face in Switzerland had seen its first repeat by... Read more
Thomas Huber, Roger Schaeli and Stephan Siegrist have made the coveted second ascent of Jeff Lowe's legendary route... Read more
We reported last week that British alpinist Tom Ballard and his Polish climbing partner Marcin Tomaszewski had made the... Read more