The boulder problem is a huge traverse of the entire cliff and is given a sport grade of F8b+.
"Trying to do this first go was the plan. With holds absolutely everywhere I figured trying to work it all out before hand would require more memory than I had available, not to mention energy and time. An onsight go, but a flash really as the holds are easily visible. So I bouldered around near the start in my trainers and walked up and down the traverse between warm-ups to see if there were any obvious rests before pulling on my boots for the first and only time and setting off."
Steve did the traverse first go, but then instead of collapsing on the floor at the end, he started climbing back the other way - without stepping off for a rest:
"So what to do at the end? Set of back I guess! So without rest I was away, faster now reversing the sequences, but it all felt a bit hard work, and I had to question what I was doing on the high bit as I literally fell across the traverse needing heel hooks to stay on above a back breaking fall! I got a fair way until my whole body shut down, not just pumped arms, but legs, stomach, back and all. I was off in a crumpled, panting heap. After 5 mins rest I still couldn't even do a single move. Time to retreat, but something to come back for I guess – I hear the Ian Vickers, the master of Longridge can cruise it 3 times without a rest...."
BMC stepped in and saved the day by buying the crag and securing future access for climbers.
Well done Steve and well done the BMC!
Over the summer, Jacopo Larcher, Barbara Zangerl, Roland Hemetzberger and Lara Neumeier travelled to Pembroke and tested... Read more
Italian ice and drytool climber Angelika Rainer has become the first woman to climb D15 with an ascent of A line above the sky at... Read more
Our Friday Night Video this week follows Steve McClure as he attempts to climb the 'best three routes in Yorkshire'; Urgent... Read more
Our Friday Night Video this week is from BMC TV and Hot Aches Productions, celebrating the life of Ken Wilson and his classic... Read more
Last week, Steve McClure set himself the goal of completing the Yorkshire 'Triple Crown' in a day: to climb the three classic... Read more