The boulder problem is a huge traverse of the entire cliff and is given a sport grade of F8b+.
"Trying to do this first go was the plan. With holds absolutely everywhere I figured trying to work it all out before hand would require more memory than I had available, not to mention energy and time. An onsight go, but a flash really as the holds are easily visible. So I bouldered around near the start in my trainers and walked up and down the traverse between warm-ups to see if there were any obvious rests before pulling on my boots for the first and only time and setting off."
Steve did the traverse first go, but then instead of collapsing on the floor at the end, he started climbing back the other way - without stepping off for a rest:
"So what to do at the end? Set of back I guess! So without rest I was away, faster now reversing the sequences, but it all felt a bit hard work, and I had to question what I was doing on the high bit as I literally fell across the traverse needing heel hooks to stay on above a back breaking fall! I got a fair way until my whole body shut down, not just pumped arms, but legs, stomach, back and all. I was off in a crumpled, panting heap. After 5 mins rest I still couldn't even do a single move. Time to retreat, but something to come back for I guess – I hear the Ian Vickers, the master of Longridge can cruise it 3 times without a rest...."
BMC stepped in and saved the day by buying the crag and securing future access for climbers.
Well done Steve and well done the BMC!
18 year old Edinburgh based climber Will Bosi placed 3rd in the European Youth Cup in Uster, Switzerland last weekend.... Read more
On 13th June, Matt Helliker and Rhoslyn Frugtniet completed the first ascent of the Ramp "Super" Challenge on Avon Gorge (Sea... Read more
24 year old Shauna Coxsey from Runcorn took home her 11th IFSC Boulder World Cup Gold this weekend, and clinched the overall 2017... Read more
Our Friday Night Video this week is a short clip of Steve McClure working the route Batman (9a/+), which he eventually linked... Read more
As reported earlier, Steve McClure finally ticked his long-term super project at Malham Cove to establish the UK's first 9b,... Read more