Two 8B+'s by Camargo in Switzerland

by Björn Pohl - UKC Oct/2013
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Felipe Camargo on The never ending story, ~8B+, Magic Wood, Switzerland, 71 kb
Felipe Camargo on The never ending story, ~8B+, Magic Wood, Switzerland
© Camargo coll.

Felipe Camargo from Brasil is currently in Switzerland, where he despite bad weather has been able to repeat two very different 8B+'s.

First, Felipe visited Magic wood in Averstal, where he managed to make a dream of his come true by repeating Chris Sharma's The Never Ending Story (Die Unendliche Geschichte), ~8B+. He needed three days of work.
The problem is a combination of two problems, UG 1, ~8A+, and , ~8A, and was first climbed by Chris Sharma in 2003.

In 2009 Peter Würth then added a three bolt route on top of UG 2 to create Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3. Don't know if it adds much difficulty, but it does top out the boulder.

Escaping the dampness of Magic Wood, Felipe went up to Silvretta in Austria, where he needed only one day to do Bernd Zangerl's Memento, ~8B+. Memento is a short, steep, crimpy problem finishing with a difficult dyno i.e everything The Never Ending Story is not. Well not really... they are both steep.

Back home in Brazil, Felipe made the first ascent of Libertadores, ~8B+, a while back. A contender for the hardest on the continent.

Felipe Camargo is sponsored by: The North Face, Singing Rock, Evolv and Adrena

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