Staphylocoque, 9a/+, by Hugo Meignan

by Björn Pohl - UKC Aug/2014
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Hugo Meignan on Staphylocoque, 9a/+, Pic Saint Loup, France, 215 kb
Hugo Meignan on Staphylocoque, 9a/+, Pic Saint Loup, France
© Lucas Meignan

Hugo Meignan, who recently climbed Moksha, his first 9a, has now made the 3rd ascent of Cédric Lachat's Staphylocoque, 9a/+, at Pic Saint Loup, France.

In the euphoria of my first 9a Moksha, I decided to try the next route Staphylocoque directly.

This route combines the Moksha beginning and the end of a project called Kmira (unrealized). Staphylocoque was first climbed by Cédric Lachat this year and then repeated by Sébastien Bouin recently, giving an estimated 9a/9a+.

Knowing the first part of the route (early Moksha) I climbed through the route five times to calibrate the methods before I could begin making redpoint attempts.

The route consists of a first section through a large concretions overhang, a first crux crossing on very small pinches with, a less difficult section before the 2nd crux on a series of small underclings before the final smooth section.

After a few attempts where I wasn't able to reach the 2nd crux of the route due to difficulties finding a knee [bar?] in the sequence, finally on the third day of climbing, much to my surprise and with a super fight, I managed to climb this beautiful route.

I would like to thank Frédéric Ferarro for route equipment, Sébastien Bouin for methods, my brother Thoma Meignan and Geoffray De Flaugergue for emulation and encouragement.

Hugo Meignan is sponsored by: Andrea Boldrini, Edelrid and Petzl

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