UKC

University Climbing Clubs: Advice for Members and Freshers

© Alistair Rocke

As the new university year begins, thousands of Freshers around the country will be looking to continue existing sporting activities or take up something new as they begin their university studies. Climbing and mountaineering clubs are growing in popularity at Universities throughout the UK. Although climbing is a fun extra-curricular activity with numerous social occasions, it's easy to overlook the risks involved when new, inexperienced members sign up for meets and events.

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Time-out from study: Student climbing clubs are becoming increasingly popular
© Alistair Rocke

The Mountaineering Council of Scotland has recently taken on a St John Scotland MIC Mountain Safety Instructor - Nick Carter - to assist university mountaineering clubs with safety and instruction for new and less experienced members during meets. 

St John Scotland, the biggest single supporter of voluntary mountain rescue in Scotland, offered to fund the safety instructor post after hearing that students are considered “high risk” in an activity which already has inherent dangers for participants. Nick will be teaming up with Scottish university mountaineering clubs during their meets in the mountains to deliver free of charge instruction.

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On the summit of Beinn Eighe
© Duncan Hodgson

We asked Nick some questions to find out where club members and Freshers around the UK can find out more about learning the necessary skills to keep safe in the mountains.


What are the key safety issues that come about in mountaineering and climbing clubs that need more attention?
The main safety issues in mountaineering and climbing clubs are that members join for very different reasons. Some folk join to go climbing/walking/scrambling with like minded people that have similar skill levels and others join as beginners as a way of learning about how to go climbing/walking/scrambling. It's not always normal for clubs to provide instruction for members and often other members don't want to teach others or aren't particularly good at it. Beginners often follow others around on the hill but don't actually learn how to navigate for themselves, so they are not really self-reliant when they are out by themselves.

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Edinburgh University Mountaineering Club: A long tradition of winter climbing meets
© Tom Eadington

In what ways do university clubs have similar or different needs?
I think Uni clubs are very similar in the sense that other members don't necessarily want to teach the beginners in the club.
There are however some major differences and one is that new members join in the Autumn and their first experience out on the hill may be in winter conditions. They may be new to the hills and want to join a mountaineering club to climb/walk in summer conditions but they are immediately thrown into the deep end. Also, as students are inevitably relatively young and even the 'experienced' members who may take on some responsibility with teaching others actually are still quite young and therefore not hugely experienced. Students are also not known for their disposable income and instruction from a professional will cost them more than chatting to a mate about how to belay or how to navigate, even though the teaching may be sub-par.

What does your role involve?
My role is to contact Scottish university mountaineering clubs and offer my services as an instructor to join them on a weekend meet. St John Scotland decided to fund my post to do some preventative work to avoid accidents in the Scottish hills. I will spend a weekend with the club being available as a sounding board and adviser and also taking out a number of beginners to learn the basics of winter skills, cramponing, ice axe arrest, navigation, avalanche awareness, moving on steeper ground and safe route choice. I will also give them a safety briefing on Friday evening and a slideshow on Saturday night.

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Winter climbing: learn the essentials before tackling harder stuff!
© Duncan Hodgson

What would your advice be to any Freshers looking to get into climbing through their university climbing club?
If you are joining a University Mountaineering Club and you have not done any mountaineering before, then ask the committee members if they have any meets that will include instruction from a qualified instructor or guide, if in Scotland, tell them about me(!) and check out the resources below.

Where can university club members and freshers get more information on running meets and staying safe?

​Watch a video of the 2013 BMC Student Seminar below:

Missing video!


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23 Sep, 2015
I took part in a MCofS students skills program in Fall 2011, and winter 2012. It was a incredibly helpful program that formalised a lot of skills I had picked up here and there but never in any coheasive form. It taught me a great deal of new skills, but also helped me establish limits for myself. Mentorship is sorely lacking in some clubs. It's often a asking a lot for the stronger more experienced climbers to take out the weaker ones who are keen to learn, but don't have the skills. At the same time without proper mentorship it is hard for the weaker climbers to gain those skills in a safe manner. It is great to see MCofS putting some effort in to close that gap.
24 Sep, 2015
Mentor's are also severely lacking in University clubs - even if an "experienced" member has been climbing since their mid-teens this only translates into 4-5 years experience at most before taking out complete novices. Whilst at this point you may have varying tickets (SPA, ML etc) it's very unlikley you would have any of those that actually demonstrate you have the skills to teach leading outdoors and heading out in winter. As such, even the "experienced"* members in a university club are passing on skills way beyond their station. On a personal front, I've experienced this recently - I'd like to think I'm one of the more knowledgeable climbers in our University club, but still get left for dead in regards to efficiency and knowledge (admittedly of more obscure aspects of things) when I head out with CC members, on courses, or simply when heading out with those with more experience. Basically I guess my point is (it's early!) is that Uni clubs can turn into a case of the blind leading the blind. However, Uni students are tight, and will never pay for instruction if they can avoid it. Hence, I think this is a great idea, and exactly what the Mountaineering Councils should be doing to promote and encourage safe participation in our sport. Why are the BMC not doing this as well? *note that I was in this camp (and still am to a degree) reasonably recently, so I'm not an old codger hating on the youth.
24 Sep, 2015
You were a university student? Seriously?
24 Sep, 2015
My club like many was allowed hangers-on. I lasted nearly 20 years and just previous to my time the turn-over of students allowed a lot of bad practice (some dangerous) and the core group sometimes to basically exploit freshers for their own kit budget. In my time we used subsidised instructors regularly and it was compulsory for beginners for scottish winter trips... and we preferred a fully qualified local scottish mountain guide as it saved us time and money in the end. We fixed ratios for beginners to intermediates to experienced climbers on any trips.. on a first-come-first served basis for those demonstating they had the required personnal kit (like climbing shooes or plastic boots), only occasionally having to help out the odd super keen 'stray' who was really short of cash. We had increasing help from the BMC over the years and the information they provide now really leaves few excuses for bad behaviour. Over the near 30 years I've been climbing, the student groups I've witnessed on the crag have got steadily better in their ethics and behaviour.
24 Sep, 2015
Hi Ian, You may have missed the link at the bottom of the article to the following page on our website about funded climbing & walking skills courses BMC Affiliated University Clubs can apply for with a qualified instructor: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/supporting-student-clubs-taking-novices-outdoors We also provide funding grants for all clubs (including University Clubs) for instructor support, club equipment, etc. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/funding-for-clubs This information all gets sent out to club secretaries so it may be worth checking we hold the correct contact information if this hasn't come through to the club. Hope that helps, Suzanne BMC
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