La reina mora and Broadway, both 8c+/9a, by Anak Verhoeven

by Björn Pohl - UKC Nov/2016
This news story has been read 5,029 times

Anak Verhoeven on La reina mora, 8c+/9a, Siurana, 181 kb
Anak Verhoeven on La reina mora, 8c+/9a, Siurana
© Seb Escanyon Richard
Anak Verhoeven has made very quick ascents of La reina mora and Broadway, both 8c+/9a and both at Siurana, Spain.

After a, for her, disappointing silver medal at the World championships in Paris in September, Anak went back to Belgium and hard training, as in doing laps on a long steep 8b+* on the huge wall at Puurs with 5kgs extra weight.

*Not sure if 8b+ is correct as she thought it was harder than Bronx, 8c+...

After this hard training, she headed south to Siurana where she made quick work of the 40m La reina mora, redpointing it on her first lead attempt after two days of working out the moves. This was the second female ascent after Alizée Dufraisse who did in 2012.

Next up was Broadway, which she did 3rd go after having broken a hold on the previous try. According to Anak it's 8c+ rather than 8c+/9a.

She also attempted La Rambla, and said she felt good on it, but no redpoint this time. She will be back.

Thanks to Pierre Délas/Fanatic climbing for the information.

 

Anak Verhoeven is sponsored by: La Sportiva and Petzl

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