Umazana igra, 8b+ trad, by Jernej Kruder

by Björn Pohl - UKC 06/Jul/2017
This news story has been read 1,230 times

Jernej Kruder on Umazana igra, 8b+ trad, Kotecnik, Slovenia, 225 kbJernej Kruder on Umazana igra, 8b+ trad, Kotecnik, Slovenia
© Jernej Kruder coll.
Jernej Kruder has made the first trad ascent of Umazana igra, an 8b+ sport route, at his local crag Kotecnik in Slovenia.

He had done the route many times before, so the challenge of climbing it without the bolts was mostly mental and to figure out how place the gear:

The problem was to link a few meters above the last protection and just before the last crux. You need to place a cam down below in a hold where you needed to grab before and make a dynamic move.

He also said that he unfortunately couldn't remove the glued bolts, but that he actually didn't even think about clipping one.

Jernej is still(?) best known as a competition climber but is also an extremely accomplished allround climber with ~8C, 9a+ DWS, 9a sport, 8b+ multi pitch and now 8b+ trad under his belt.

Last week he reached the semi final in the European Lead Championships and 7 July he's competing in the Lead World cup at Villars-sur-Ollon.

Jernej Kruder is sponsored by: Morpho holds, Pucseries and Scarpa

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