IFSC Lead World Cup Briancon: Report

by Natalie Berry - UKC 01/Aug/2017
This news story has been read 4,563 times

The third round of the IFSC Lead World Cup took place in Briançon, France last weekend. GB Team members Molly Thompson-Smith and Jim Pope both reached semi-finals and achieved their best ever World Cup result, finishing 11th and 16th respectively, in what was Jim's first semi-final at senior level. Slovenia's Janja Garnbret and Romain Desgranges of France repeated their performance in Villars to reign supreme once again in front a record-breaking crowd of spectators, despite heavy rain delaying the finals schedule.

Molly Thompson-Smith climbing to 11th place , 175 kbMolly Thompson-Smith climbing to 11th place

Following the routesetting issues experienced in Chamonix, the team pulled out all the stops to ensure that the routes were hard and sustained in order to split the groups. In the men's event, a bouldery final route featuring spectacular jumps and a 'Rose' cross-through appealed to Canadian Sean McColl (CAN) and Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA). However, after dominating each earlier stage of the competition, it was Romain Desgranges who appeared most at ease on the multiple boulder cruxes, finishing two moves further than Sean and jumping with joy upon being told that he'd won.

Sean McColl took 2nd place, 202 kbSean McColl took 2nd place
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Marcello Bombardi qualified for his second senior final after his win in Chamonix, showing newfound confidence after standing on the top step of the podium. German Sebastian Halenke qualified in 2nd place for the final, but nerves got the better of him and a tense climb up the first part of the route cost him energy and resulted in an 8th place.

Men's podium - Briançon, 157 kbMen's podium - Briançon
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

In the women's final, concerns were raised that the three top climbers - Janja Garnbret (SLO), Anak Verhoeven (BEL) and Jain Kim (KOR) - were yet to be split after the two qualifier and semi-final routes. In response, the routesetters created an interesting line with powerful cruxes, which saw 9a+ climber Margo Hayes (USA) take an early lead in her first senior final. Julia Chanourdie (FRA) impressed by raising the bar a little higher, clearly confident after winning Bronze at the World Games in Poland just one week earlier.

Janja Garnbret relaxes during the final climb, 164 kbJanja Garnbret relaxes during the final climb
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The final three women lived up to their reputation as the ones to watch, as each climber gradually surpassed the highpoint of the previous competitor. A close-fought contest between Anak and Janja saw the Slovenian reach just one move further to take her third win of the season.

The women's podium - Briançon, 172 kbThe women's podium - Briançon
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The next round takes place in Arco, Italy on 25th/26th August.

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L) - Briançon (FRA) 2017

MENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Romain Desgranges FRA 36+ 41
2 Sean McColl CAN 35+ 39
3 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 35+ 35
4 Masahiro Higuchi JPN 36+ 29
5 Sean Bailey USA 36+ 28+
6 Marcello Bombardi ITA 36+ 27
7 Naoki Shimatani JPN 36 22.5
8 Sebastian Halenke GER 36+ 13+
9 Domen Skofic SLO 35+
10 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN 35+
11 Sam Avezou FRA 35
12 Max Rudigier AUT 34+
13 Hanwool Kim KOR 33+
14 Francesco Vettorata ITA 33+
15 Loïc Timmermans BEL 33+
16 James Pope GBR 33
17 Hannes Puman SWE 33
18 Jakub Konecny CZE 32.5
19 Thomas Joannes FRA 30+
20 Christoph Hanke GER 29
Full results

WOMENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Janja Garnbret SLO Top 39+
2 Anak Verhoeven BEL Top 38+
3 Jain Kim KOR Top 36+
4 Julia Chanourdie FRA 37+ 30+
5 Jessica Pilz AUT 42+ 26+
6 Margo Hayes USA 37 26+
7 Salomé Romain FRA 31+ 26+
8 Mina Markovic SLO 37+ 20+
9 Hélène Janicot FRA 29.5+
10 Katherine Choong SUI 29+
11 Molly Thompson- Smith GBR 29+
12 Risa Ota JPN 29+
13 Brooke Raboutou USA 29
14 Viktoriia Meshkova RUS 28
15 Julia Fiser AUT 27+
16 Vita Lukan SLO 27
17 Nolwen Berthier FRA 27
18 Katharina Posch AUT 26+
19 Hannah Schubert AUT 26+
20 Moe YOSHIMURA JPN 26+
Full results

Watch the finals replay below:

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