August 1976 on this our first attempt. Good weather conditions, but the upper section we were aware was well iced and we were expecting to have to make a bivy on the upper section or the descent. Here Ian was setting off on one of the easier but steepish pitches', well loaded up with a fairly heavy sack. In view above is a party who are near where the harder climbing begins.

I took over the lead on the next pitches until above the Fissure Lambert. Ian wanted to lead, not just second on all the remaining pitches. He made some progress on the next pitch but then took a fall. He was clearly unable to continue, passing in and out of consciousness. I feared a back injury so didn't think I could evacuate him. I sorted him out as best I could and descended and to request assistance. He had some time in hospital but most of the damage was due to his heavy rucksack, which when I held him arched his upper body backwards - low attachment point and high loading on shoulders- pivot point being the waistbelt on his Whillans harness.

Gripping stuff!