I remember being absolutely exhausted on reaching the summit of this very good, sustained, 1800-ft climb, which is rather like a miniature Walker Spur to look at, and very commmitting. It had only been done about 4 or 5 times before, and I think we encountered just one rusty peg. So it had all the feel of pioneering (indeed we were probably climbing some variation pitches that had never been done before, because the way was not always obvious)

Just came across this photo and I could add that myself and Mark Springett made the first Brit ascent in July ‘69. Remember it well as a fine route which started with a frightening near miss at the start when a load of snow and rock shot down the gulley and over my lead as I crossed across to the start of the climb.

A few days later John Cleare and Peter Crew did the first ascent of the right hand pillar.

Fascinating info, thanks Stephen. I remember it as a very interesting and varied route - a very satisfying day.