I've been climbing for 30 years and love both trad and sport. I've managed to climb some harder sport but there's a huge list of trad classics still waiting to be climbed around the country.
Best Climbing Experience Best mountain experiences - (i) Cioch Direct/Arrow Route/Integrity combo (before the rockfall) at Sron Na Ciche) (ii) an unforgettable evening losing the way on Paterno after spending a day trying to find the start of the route.
Best sea-cliff experiences - (i) Last Laugh (first E2) followed by Fay second at Lower Sharpnose (ii) Magical Mystery Tour DWS followed by Moonraker trad at Old Redoubt (iii) Dreadnought second (albeit dogged on P1) at Old Redoubt (iii) More than a Match at Oldwalls second.
Best trad experiences - (i) Devonshire Cream at Ansteys (headpoint, so bold E3-6a, but not worked to death) (ii) Cocytus at Ansteys (before the new bolts) (iii) Old Man of Hoy (iv) Coronation Street (v) Sacrosnact at Sanctuary Wall (vi) Limbo Dancer at Hound Tor (solo and ground-up without mats years ago) (vii) Crinoid at Telegraph Hole (I hate slabs - mind over matter!).
Best sport experiences - (i) Empire at Ansteys (22 years of dreaming) (ii) Thread Flintstone, Barney Rubble, Little White Lie at Torbyran.
Worked Grades Trad - E3 Sport - 7b Bouldering - V4
Favourite Crag/Rock Lowman on a summer's evening Granite
Favourite Wall The Quay, Exeter; The Wall, Cusco
I Climb... Most weekends In the UK
Favourite Climbs Too many to list! But for smile on the face fun the following are right up there (i) Sacrosanct (ii) Outward Bound (iii) Combined Ops (iv) Jean Jeannie (v) Flying Buttress (Cromlech) and (vi) More than a Match