staceyjg

Email User

Anothre year on and another year older, and fortunately, another year better at climbing.


I climb 2 or 3 times a week indoors, and if the weather permits, outdoors at weekends.

I do a yearly pilgrimage to Font, but in Font terms, I am still a complete punta, my aims for next years font is to be climbing hard enough to ignore the yellow and orange circuit and aim for blue only.... but we'll see.

Latest update..... I have now been climbing successfully at VS for a couple of years on and off. Last year, on our wedding anniversary, my husband and I climbed Dream of White Horses, this has been on my ticklist for over 7 years, so my first real HVS, this year, I led Bludgeon at Stennis Head, Pembroke, and have now made the decision that I can now start progressing from leading VS to leading HVS.... I followed that this weekend, with leading Nine Lives Wall at Wildcat Crags which is solid HVS... I hope this is the first of many.


This was my previous update "My climbing has gone from strength to strength over the last 18 months, going from not being able to lead any further than the 2nd clip due to absolute terror, to leading my first HVS 5a. This, to me, is a great achievement. (also noting that I did it with a sprained knee).

With some help from Adrian Berry, I was able to lead VS 5a without any panic, terror or even hesitation, (the route felt more like a Severe) and I led HVS 5a, with a touch more trepidation, lots more fear, and two lead falls (my first trad falls). Although I'm not sure I am ready for leading HVS consistently, I feel confident that through a little perserverence and the understanding that I KNOW I'm going to be stepping outside my comfort zone, I can soon come to grips with leading VS on a more regular basis and not looking at the routes wondering when I will be able to lead them."

I am now consistantly leading 6a/6a+ indoors, HS & VS depending on the route outdoors, but basically having a go at everything. My head game used to be a factor, but thanks to my partner Chris who's had a bit of a bad year requiring knee reconstruction, which has meant that I have had to lead everything, my head game has improved immensely and I am very much enjoying climbing on lead (although seconding the occasional route is an indulgance now).

There is still much room for improvement and I will continue to keep pushing.

Location
Near Birmingham

Best Climbing Experience
First Alpine route, Cosmiques Arete scared the crap out of me on the descent from the midi.

Dream of White Horses, 7 years on my tick list.

Breaking into HVS with Bludgeon on Stennis Head
Reaching the top of a route I led with no hesitation and being told I'd just led a VS 5a.

Later in the day with a sprained knee, leading a HVS 5a and finally finding out that my gear WILL hold a fall!!!

Recent Postings

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Interests Outside Climbing
Pencil Drawing, Mountain Biking.

About My Photography
Point and click

Photo Gallery

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Anything Else We Should Know
I work full-time in I.T. , enjoy pencil drawing. I get the occasional weekend reprieve which I would like to take the opportunity to get some outdoor climbing in.

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