UKC

paul mitchell

Email User

I am now 61. I have done many new routes on Derbyshire grit and limestone.
One is Help The Young,Stanage. Another is the Great Leveller at Stoney Middleton.

I prefer trad,though occasionally climb sport.

Here are some routes I have soloed at Curbar,no mats.

Scroach,Right Eliminate,Left Eliminate,Peapod,Toy,Tin Drum,Be Bop Deluxe,Insanity,Elder Crack,L'Horla,Green Crack,Maupassant,Predator,Soyuz,Ulysses or Bust,Rat Scabies,Smoke ont Watter,Fidget.

This is just to let you know that when I post some seemingly insignificant new route or boulder problem,I am not just some newbie seeking attention.I am in fact an experienced attention seeker.If I criticise you via email,after you had a go at me on a forum,that is to spare you me having a go where everyone can read it. I still believe that pitons are valid on quarried grit,where that crag has a history of peg runners.I post on this site to offer information on new problems,new routes,or to offer advice where I think it may be useful.

TO THE TROLLS....
I don't use this site in order to pick battles with people who just bang on about my chalk use and views on pitons.Slagging me off really won't change anything,and if you are the slagger,you will probably not feel so satisfied after your knee jerk response.You will have to go back to your sad little life,where nobody ever notices you.Is your ten seconds of fame on UKC really worth it?Long after you and I are dead,your feeble comments will be so much data in internet memory banks,whereas my problems and routes,if any good,will still be named and climbed by those around after we have shuffled off. Why not spend that anger at my posts on putting your grade up? I notice that the worst trolls seem to have pretty low grades on their profiles.

Get yourselves a life.So much easier to slag off my routes on your keyboard,than get your negative butt out there and try those routes and problems. If you post under an alias ,that implies you don't really have the courage to let people know the identity of the sad critic you are.

As if my whole climbing identity is represented by a few pegs and a few patches of chalk.What is your climbing identity.....the bilge you post on this site?You never use chalk?You never clip a peg? You are not guilty of the most basic hypocrisy?

Rather than boiling yourself in your own bile,why not practice a musical instrument?With me,that's guitar.I recommend guitar teacher Pebber Brown on You Tube.
Chill the f... out.Play some music.

Oh sorry,I forgot you are a troll.Music requires a brain and some effort.

Of course ,who I am is not represented by the routes I have done,but the list of routes give you some idea of my climbing identity.I find that the better the climber,the less likely they are to have a go at me.I don't conform to trends on this website,just in order to conform.I am open to debate,but not to brow beating and being slagged off,which sadly is a common feature of this forum.

I tend to bang on about bolts,mainly because I see a slow decline in people climbing trad,and trad routes being retrobolted.Retrobolting just leads to further decline in trad standards.It's a myth that sport routes help you to climb trad.Leading a trad route can take 10 or more times the time,while you hang on and try and fiddle gear in.I have friends who do a lot of bolted and I see their tradding on sight ability somewhat enfeebled as a result.

As wages decline,youngsters can't afford trad gear much,so bolting is a cheap way to go climbing.Retrobolting uses the excuse that pegs are rusty and can't be trusted.Another myth;all that needs happen is that pegs are regularly replaced.The BMC won't spend the money on peg replacement,so the slow decline of trad will continue as a result.Pegs aren't cheap.The more that steep pumpy trad routes are retrobolted,the less opportunity there will be for people to learn the skills necessary.I am not so much against the use of bolts,more for the preservation and encouragement of trad equipment and techniques,both mental and physical. I worry that mountain trad routes and grit will start to become bolted,with the perpetrators using the old feeble excuse that nobody does the routes,so we may as well retrobolt. The point is that such routes should be left as a mental challenge,rather than just become more anonymous bolted junk food.When I last tried to speak at a BMC Peak area ''open'' meeting on this and other topics,the chairman wouldn't let me ask more than one question.The BMC actually does stifle ethical debate at its meetings nowadays.They put out the bolting justification as if there is no other alternative.It is in their interest to promote bolted and competition climbing,as this may justify government funding more than trad.I asked at a meeting if the BMC was a business,and the reply was,yes it IS a business.Thus I question their ethical propriety these days.

Enjoy your climbing,because that's what it's supposed to be about.

Recent Postings

List all my recent posts.

Click to list photo comments written by me. (2 comments)

Anything Else We Should Know
Positive comments gratefully received.Negative and unwarranted comments often will be mercilessly deconstructed.





Observe what is happening in YOUR mind at this very moment.That is the path to wisdom.Try to be more helpful and less critical.

If you want to know who I am,then arrange to meet.Rumour and hearsay are usually well wide of the mark.
If you have an ill friend or family member,go and visit them.

Now in my 6th decade and I find myself really struggling to do pull ups.Weak as a kitten compared to when I was putting up hard new routes easily.

Will work on the pull ups but all that lives is born to die,and getting weaker is part of that.









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