Nicholas Milburn makes the 3rd ascent of Jimmy Webb's Southern Drawl (Font 8C).
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Didn't Daniel Woods go out to repeat Gioia at the same time as Graham, and found a new sequence also? And then Core glued over the footholds so they couldnt use the new sequence. And they left in disgust. That was my memory of how that went down.
Also pretty sure Nalle didn't say anything about the grade, only Ondra.
EDIT: Two sides to the story: www.8a.nu/news/gioia-controversy-what-do-you-think
Well whatever, ancient history
iirc the new sequence with the kneebar was not an issue in the slightest, and had nothing to do with the broken feet.
The issue was they stood on some feet that were obviously going to break, so it was "known" to not try to use them. The easier start shared the same feet and had more traffic with no issues before dwoods and graham.
But they stood on the feet, broke them and exposed better feet. So Christian "fixed" that with glue.