Fred Rouhling's Iconic Trio of 9a's at Les Eaux Claires is the site for the 4th episode of Seb Bouin's Vintage Rock Tour... and the challenge of repeating the unrepeatable awaits.
Really interesting to see how differently he climbed Akira to Fred i.e. using his feet, and how similarly he climbed L'Autre Cote du Ciel - It would seem like L'Autre Cote is '9a obligatoire' whereas Akira is better described as 9b (9a obligatoire) and will no doubt settle at a grade in the next couple of years now the 'myth' barrier has been broken and people try it. Definitely puts Fred in the top of the tree in the world at the time - who else was operating at 8c+ in 93-95 (or before)? Moon, Moffat, Gullich, Huber, Andrada?
Wow, I found the rhapsodising of the chap on the video (magazine editor?) absolutely repellant. The way he kept gushing about how the routes were so beautifully chipped and what a visionary the FA was.
Ballocks. People who climb a new route as it is, without knowing if it is possible are an inspiration. People who just get the chisel out to bring it to their level, not so much.
Comments
Really interesting to see how differently he climbed Akira to Fred i.e. using his feet, and how similarly he climbed L'Autre Cote du Ciel - It would seem like L'Autre Cote is '9a obligatoire' whereas Akira is better described as 9b (9a obligatoire) and will no doubt settle at a grade in the next couple of years now the 'myth' barrier has been broken and people try it. Definitely puts Fred in the top of the tree in the world at the time - who else was operating at 8c+ in 93-95 (or before)? Moon, Moffat, Gullich, Huber, Andrada?
Wow, I found the rhapsodising of the chap on the video (magazine editor?) absolutely repellant. The way he kept gushing about how the routes were so beautifully chipped and what a visionary the FA was.
Ballocks. People who climb a new route as it is, without knowing if it is possible are an inspiration. People who just get the chisel out to bring it to their level, not so much.
Fred Nicole (Bain de Sang) is the only other that springs to mind.
You need to take it in the context of the age and location. And leave your ego aside.
as for the chap, they were the guys who climbed these lines. With the exception of Hugh, 2nd and 3rd ascents.
From your comment it seems you have much to learn about the history and development of rock climbing through the ages...........