A short film of Steve McClure on GreatNess Wall (E10 7a) filmed by Keith Sharples. He was going to take pictures but thought a fall from the last move would look far better...
Speaking to UKC, Steve described the route as 'a total face climb, plum vertical, 18m high, with a horizontal break crossing the whole cliff at about 12m. This break divides the route into two completely different halves, fortunately with an excellent (preplaced) thread. Poor footholds with fast hand moves between the bad edges, hard foot swaps, where if your feet go you are absolutely certainly out of there! There is nowhere to stop or think or compose yourself as you gain distance from the lonely thread below...'
Comments
Wow .... fantastic effort ... scary lead šš„¶
What grade does it get if you don't use a boulder mat, and actually place the crucial gear on lead?
The top gear at the break is an in situ thread and the bottom wall is v easy compared to the top bit, so Iād hazard a guess at E10 7A.
Why use the mat then if it doesn't make the route any safer?
But to answer the second bit of Scope's question?