/ NEW ARTICLE: VIDEO: Adam Ondra - Chaxi Raxi (9b), Oliana - First Ascent

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UKC Articles - on 24 May 2011
Adam Ondra being interviewed about his ascent of Chaxi raxi - 9b, 4 kbBlack Diamond athlete Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi, a massive 9b line at Oliana, Spain in late April. This is likely one of the hardest sport climbs in the world.

Here's the video of the ascent from Black Diamond.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3750

LaMentalist on 24 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Blinkin flip thats impressive . I think it's very gracious of Mr Sharma too . Nice video UKC cheers . 80)
Owen W-G - on 24 May 2011
In reply to LaMentalist:

Cool vid.
Has Adam Ondra gone back home now after his Malham exploits or are the reported sightings of him at Lorry Park Quarry true?
JSA - on 24 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Is the video anywhere else other than Vimeo?, I always have trouble with that site not playing video clips smoothly
royal - on 24 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
Outstanding. And props to Sharma as well.
Arms Cliff - on 24 May 2011
In reply to JSA: Have you tried clicking the 'HD' button to turn the HD off? When I watch them on my netbook rather than my PC that usually sorts out the jerkiness.
Duncan Campbell - on 24 May 2011
In reply to JSA: Or wait for it to buffer fully? This might be telling you what you already knew... but just incase..
tdubber - on 25 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

look st the size of his arm on the articel picture!!!
JSA - on 25 May 2011
In reply to Arms Cliff:

Thank you, that was just what it needed. I've now got a backlog of UKC vids to watch! :o)
Robert Durran - on 25 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Why do you feel the need to start the article with the irritatingly commercial phrase "Black Diamond athlete.....". What's wrong with "Czech climber....." or something like that? Do you have to do this to get the video from Black Diamond? It all seems a bit sad to me.
Michael Gordon - on 26 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:

Agreed. It's not as though folk don't know who he is!
James Oswald - on 26 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
Amazing.
How many 17 or so year olds show his level of maturity?
James
Daniel Heath - on 26 May 2011
In reply to James Oswald:

Well he is 18 :P
johncoxmysteriously - on 26 May 2011
In reply to James Oswald:

Child prodigies generally do, actually. I once played one of the Polgar sisters at chess (famous Hungarian children taken out of education and taught chess instead by their father) and her maturity was startling. It's when it comes to playing video games with their peers they tend to be found lacking - still, no great loss.

jcm
Robert Durran - on 26 May 2011
In reply to tdubber:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> look st the size of his arm on the articel picture!!!

Bloody hell! Dispels any lingering doubts about whether of not he is actually human.
abarro81 - on 27 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> Why do you feel the need to start the article with the irritatingly commercial phrase "Black Diamond athlete.....".

Because if someone makes a good video it's nice to help them keep their sponsors happy...

mark_wellin - on 27 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

How many 9b's is that? 5? The pyramid is already there, I don't think we are that far from a 9b+!!!
Ed F - on 27 May 2011
In reply to mark_wellin:

He's got to find one first!
Robert Durran - on 27 May 2011
In reply to abarro81:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
> [...]
>
> Because if someone makes a good video it's nice to help them keep their sponsors happy...

That is what I presumed, and fair enough, but why does this commercialism have to be so "in your face"? The message seems to be that the most important thing about Ondra is that he is sponsored by Black Diamond. It may be the most important thing to Black Diamond, having sponsorship is presumably useful to Ondra (but I doubt he cares much who provides it) but does anyone else care? Personally it would tend to make me less likely to buy Black Diamond stuff.

And yes, the word "athlete" still grates horribly in this context!

Michael Ryan - on 27 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> Why do you feel the need to start the article with the irritatingly commercial phrase "Black Diamond athlete.....". What's wrong with "Czech climber....." or something like that? Do you have to do this to get the video from Black Diamond? It all seems a bit sad to me.

Czech climber would probably be better. No we don't have to label Ondra as a Black Diamond athlete.

However, most climbing companies do now employ videographers to make videos of their top climbers (athletes...and they are athletes) and we draw attention to them because, like this one, they are great editorial content of interest to a majority of UKC's readers.

So editorially they are great, but also they work as adverts for the company that sponsors the climber.

Without the support of climbing companies like Black Diamond we wouldn't get such high quality videos to watch. Saying that of course, there are many commercial free videos that we run.

From our point of view it's a double header, great content and we are supporting a company that advertises with us...they help pay the quite considerable bills incurred in running UKC and UKH.

Mick

Pete_Robinson on 27 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:
> Why do you feel the need to start the article with the irritatingly commercial phrase "Black Diamond athlete.....". Do you have to do this to get the video from Black Diamond? It all seems a bit sad to me.

How can you possibly criticise this video or the article introducing it? Who do you think makes the video and for what purpose? It's advertising, plain and simple. Did you also notice the green BD quickdraws Ondra was using for the ascent? And his familiar orange BD harness?

Yes it's commercial. But would you rather have to pay to download the video, or not see the ascent at all? Personally, Ondra being introduced as a "Black Diamond athlete" and seeing the BD logo splashed all over the video is a small price to pay for watching a very high quality FREE video of the world's best sport climber in action.
James Oswald - on 27 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
UKC offers a bargain in my opinion. I'd happily pay a couple of pounds a month (or so) to access some of the content on UKC - a little advertising to provide the company with a greater incentive to provide the fantastic videos is a small cost.
GrahamD - on 27 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:

I have to agree the term 'athlete' grates, but to me the in your face product placement is all really done up front then its just a good climbing video.
Robert Durran - on 27 May 2011
In reply to Pete_Robinson:
> How can you possibly criticise this video or the article introducing it?

I have not criticised what is an excellent video.
I have criticised the Black Diamond stuff rammed down my throat in the UKC original post and in what is otherwise an excellent article.

> Who do you think makes the video and for what purpose? It's advertising, plain and simple. Did you also notice the green BD quickdraws Ondra was using for the ascent? And his familiar orange BD harness?

I have no objection to the Black Diamond gear (I didn't even notice it) and I know Black Diamond need to advertise, but it is the constant product placement and brand names right up front in this and so many other headlines that I find so irritating. Black Diamond have certainly lost my loyalty.

> But would you rather have to pay to download the video.

Well yes, I have in the past and would again pay good money to buy a video. If it helped to stem the insidious commercialisation of so much in climbing these days, then maybe I would rather pay.
Robert Durran - on 27 May 2011
In reply to James Oswald:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
> UKC offers a bargain in my opinion. I'd happily pay a couple of pounds a month (or so) to access some of the content on UKC.

So would I if it spared me the worst excesses of commercial content.
Robert Durran - on 27 May 2011
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:
> From our point of view it's a double header, great content and we are supporting a company that advertises with us...they help pay the quite considerable bills incurred in running UKC and UKH.

I can fully understand the situation from UKC's point of view as an enterprise which is striving admirably to make end meets and provide top quality content. But couldn't you just tone it down a bit? If you had just started with "Czech climber......" rather than "Black Diamond athlete...." I probably wouldn't have commented. I genuinely find the commercialism in climbing sad, but maybe I am just old fashioned and the world is moving on without me.

Oh, and he's definitely not an athlete............
In reply to Robert Durran: Hi Robert,

The text came from Black Diamond, who in part fund Adam's climbing and also arranged, paid for and published this video.

I didn't edit out the 'Black Diamond athlete' bit because I didn't even notice it, it didn't grate on me at all. That said I understand your point of view and realise that I deal with the commercial angle of climbing on a daily basis and may be more immune to that sort of thing.

Thanks for your input I will bear it in mind. Happy climbing.

PS:

Well done Adam for being an inspiration.

Well done BD for making such a great video. I am now inspired enough to start training for the first time in about 6 years. I have even just got a finger board and everything.

Isn't climbing ace!

Thanks,

Jack
metal arms on 27 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC)
> [...]
>
> Oh, and he's definitely not an athlete............

athlete

1 - a person who competes in sports

2 - a person who competes in sports such as running and jumping

3 - a person who is good at sports and physical exercise

He has competed in climbing competitions. He is good at the sport he has chosen. 2 out of 3 of the definitions...

And well done Adam. The vid was great. Inspirational stuff.

Chris
Robert Durran - on 27 May 2011
In reply to metal arms:
> athlete........

Yes, I am very familiar with the argument......

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=427389

........and still unpersuaded!

Robert Durran - on 27 May 2011
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
>
> Thanks for your input I will bear it in mind. Happy climbing.

Thanks

> Well done Adam for being an inspiration.
>
> Well done BD for making such a great video.

Agreed on both counts!
PebblePusher - on 27 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:

What's wrong with reporting the facts? He IS a BD athlete, they sponsor him (along with other companies I'm sure) and if it wasn't for these companies funding & encouraging their stars to go out there and show what they could do then we wouldn't have any fancy videos of f9b sport routes being smashed by some incredible people; or E11 trad being crushed by plucky brits.

I don't understand this attitude, stop being grumpy and accept the fact that advertising and commercialism have a clear and important roll to play in the evolution of our sport and has helped it get to where it is today.

If you don't like it, don't go on the internet?!

(Rant Over!)
PebblePusher - on 27 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:

> And yes, the word "athlete" still grates horribly in this context!

What?!? Clearly he is an incredible athlete! I accept it's a strange word to describe your average punter, I for example am NOT an athlete because I can drag myself up a 10m grit HVS. Ondra, however, is a supreme athlete who has spent years training and sculpting his body so that it is capable of doing these incredible things.

How hard is it to say "Well done Adam!". I don't get some people.
PebblePusher - on 27 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:

>maybe I am just old fashioned and the world is moving on without me.

The only thing you've said on this thread that hasn't wound me up!

> Oh, and he's definitely not an athlete............

Explain this! How is he NOT an athlete. He's a profesional sports star who trains & operates at the highest level of a sport that demands physical fitness and flexibility.

A quick google to find a definition for the word athlete gives this:

athlete [ˈ©¡¥èli¢°t]
n
1. (Individual Sports & Recreations / Athletics (Track & Field)) a person trained to compete in sports or exercises involving physical strength, speed, or endurance
2. a person who has a natural aptitude for physical activities

you could add:

3. ADAM ONDRA!
GrahamD - on 27 May 2011
In reply to PebblePusher:

The term 'athlete' grates with me too - but its probably my British reserve and love of understatement.

I hate pants for trousers too, and sending and crushing routes.
PebblePusher - on 27 May 2011
In reply to GrahamD:

> I hate pants for trousers too, and sending and crushing routes.

Yeah, fair play. I hate pants instead of trousers (It's our language America - you butchered it!) and "Sending", "Crushing" etc... are all sensationalist words that I used to try and spice up my otherwise fairly bland writing "skills"! Poor effort really!
Robert Durran - on 27 May 2011
In reply to PebblePusher:
>
> I don't understand this attitude, stop being grumpy and accept the fact that advertising and commercialism have a clear and important roll to play in the evolution of our sport and has helped it get to where it is today.

Since I see the two biggest threats to the things I love most about climbing as commercialism and bolts (in no particular order), please may I draw some parallels:

Yes, bolts/commercialism have played a not insignificant part in the the development of climbing. Not all bolts/commercialism is bad. However, the rampant spread of bolts/commercialism in climbing would, I believe, change climbing sadly for the worse. I am dismayed at the, at best, indifferent response from surprisingly many on UKC to creeping bolts/commercialism. I don't wish to have bolts/commercialism shoved in my face wherever I go.

What is so unreasonable about that?
Robert Durran - on 27 May 2011
In reply to PebblePusher:

> Explain this! How is he NOT an athlete........

Thanks for taking the bait.

> athlete [ˈ©¡¥èli¢°t]

Clarify?
Mr Powly - on 27 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:

Where is the rampant spread of bolts? I don't know if anyone else really thinks it's happening.
Robert Durran - on 27 May 2011
In reply to Mr Powly:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
>
> Where is the rampant spread of bolts? I don't know if anyone else really thinks it's happening.

It's not. I didn't say it was. Nor is nuclear war. The millenium bug didn't happen either.

PebblePusher - on 27 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:
> (In reply to PebblePusher)
> [...]

> Yes, bolts/commercialism have played a not insignificant part in the the development of climbing. Not all bolts/commercialism is bad. However, the rampant spread of bolts/commercialism in climbing would, I believe, change climbing sadly for the worse. I am dismayed at the, at best, indifferent response from surprisingly many on UKC to creeping bolts/commercialism. I don't wish to have bolts/commercialism shoved in my face wherever I go.

I understand that an increase in bolts in the UK is against our climbing heritage and in a large part I agree (if you look at my logbook I have done very little sport in the UK - I love trad). The last thing I would want is for bolts to appear widespread across venues that do lend themselves to traditional protection; so fair play to that view.

I do think though that if you look across other sports commercialism has not only raised interest and participation but also raised the bar/standards massively. I love to watch the pro's showing everyone what is really possible and that by questioning our limits we can always surprise ourselves; I find that hugely inspiring even at my rather moderate level of climbing. I don't think that this would be as accessible (certainly not free) if it wasn't for the sponsorship they receive.

> What is so unreasonable about that?

If you enjoyed watching the film and are a regular viewer for the videos available on UKC then it's not so much unreasonable but hypocritical.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Robert Durran - on 27 May 2011
In reply to PebblePusher:
> I do think though that if you look across other sports commercialism has not only raised interest and participation but also raised the bar/standards massively.

Obviously one's view on this would depend on whether one thought these are good things and, if one thoughty they were, then whether incresed commercialism is a price worth paying.

> If you enjoyed watching the film and are a regular viewer for the videos available on UKC then it's not so much unreasonable but hypocritical.

I am probably guilty as charged of being a hypocrit just as I am every time I use my car to go climbing after expressing concerns about climate change. I would actually have no real problem with the Black Diamond sponsorship if it wasn't so in my face: "Black Diamond athlete....." right at the start as if it was the most important thing about Ondra. Incidentally, if it had started "Czech athlete Adam Ondra.....", it would have sounded a bit silly wouldn't it? I think a large part of my objection to the word "athlete" is its now almost universal,in my view pretentious, use by companies to describe the people they sponsor. ie its link with commercialism.



Micky J - on 27 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: yeah its a grumpy old man thing : sending crushing athlete gaston I dropped it ffs ! you mean you fell off !! Highball headpoint 3rd go wheres Don Whillans when you need him , Im just not feeling the love !!!!!
scooott - on 28 May 2011
Don't see the big deal with describing Ondra as a BD athlete.

It's just like saying 'the teenager' or 'the Czech climber' or 'the sport-climbing sensation'. All are used to inform the reader.

And advertising isn't a crime. Aslong as I don't see the BD logo flicking up
every 10 seconds, I don't find it intrusive in any way.

And Ondra IS an athlete. Performance based climbers have everything in common
with athletes from other sports. Nothing makes them special in that regard.
Robert Durran - on 28 May 2011
In reply to scooott:
> Don't see the big deal with describing Ondra as a BD athlete.
>
> It's just like saying 'the teenager' or 'the Czech climber' or 'the sport-climbing sensation'. All are used to inform the reader.

Don't you see a difference between headlining with something which actually tells you something about him as a climber or a person rather than something which is purely there for commercial/financial gain reasons? It's like introducing yourself to someone by showing them the pair of dirty underpants you've just worn for five days on a scary route.

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