/ Top ten climbs in the southwest !
hostile witness - bench tor
wreckers slab - cornaky cliff
sacre coure - black church
doorpost - bosigran
lands end long climb - lands end
aviation - haytor
outward bound - haytor
climbers club direct - dewerstone
mayday - torbryan quarry
eyefull tower - cheesewring
I'v climbed Aviation and Outward Bound and would agree that these are awesome route. Climbers Club Direct gets my vote too, even just for the starting moves :)
Haven't done a huge amount, but some of the best routes I've ever done include:
- Astral Stroll - phenomenal, and gives The Moon a lesson in what's still E1
- Something at Lower Sharpnose (they're a bit samey, but in a very good way)
- Desolation Row in the Great Zawn - scary and brilliant
- Rock Dancer
Can't come up with 10 of that standard, but there's no point in putting in fillers when others will be able to suggest more classics. Mercury Direct is high on my list.
A quick think of great SW routes would include (in no particular order):
- Moonraker (Berry Head)
- Lost Horizon (Baggy Point)
- Central Groove (The Dewerstone)
- Little Brown Jug and Anvil Chorus (just for top pitch)(Bosigran)
- Elysium (Boulder Ruckle)
- Diocese (Chair Ladder)
ones I haven't done but heard are great would be Wreckers Slab and Right Angle (Gurnards Head)
Saxon - classic route
Most of the routes on Bosigran
10 of the ones I've done:
Sarcophagus, VS, Chudleigh
Questor, VS, Wyndcliffe
Lightning Wall, HVS, Swanage
Malbogies, HVS, Avon
King Kong, E1, Wintour's
Coronation Street, E1, Cheddar
Sacre Coeur E2, Blackchurch
Kangaroo Wall, E2, Wintour's
Run For Home E2, Shorncliffe
Moving Target, E3, Fairy Cave
Benny VS (The Promenade)
Kinky Cowboy HVS (Baggy Point)
Hell Gates HVS (Avon)
...not forgetting that Sports climbs can be pretty entertaining too, try:
Stone Cold Fever 6b+ (Cheddar)
Pregnant Pause 6a+ (Portland)
Heady Days 6b+ (Ban-y-gor)
Hells Gates HVS Avon
Thane E1 Kenidjack
Commando Ridge VD Bosigran
Magical Mystery Tour 6a+ Berry Head
Pregnant Pause 6a+ Portland
Tensor II VS Swanage
Spiders Web HVS Dewerstone
Little Brown Jug VS Bosigran
Wreckers Slab VS Cornakey Cliff
Sarcophagus VS Chudleigh
Empire of the Sun f7b, Anstey's Cove
Rainbow Bridge ~f7a, Berry Head
Darkinbad the Brightdayler E5, Pentire Head
Fay E4, Lower Shaprnose
Bow Wall E2, Bosigran
Coronation Street E1, Cheddar Gorge
South Face Direct VS, Chair Ladder
The Devil's Slide HS, Lundy
To get to the required '10' I would imagine the other obvious contenders would be Infinite Gravity, one of the many and various *** E3s and/or one of the classic Diff/VD/Severe routes around.
I reckon Chudleigh warrants inclusion of one route - Inkerman's Groove, Combat, and Black Death are all top drawer in my eyes (at differring grades).
On the sport front, at Torbryan Thread Flintstone is much better quality than Mayday (which is pretty unbalanced - one hard move for the grade then easy climbing). Reckon Empire (OTS) needs to be on the list too.
Sharpnose definately warrants one route - lots of choice and pretty subjective as mostly similar style. I really liked Break on Through, but haven't done Pacemaker yet (which looks even better)
Cornwall - where to start! Think you have a few good suggestions but Stone Boom (Pordenack) and Demo Route or Samson Arete (Sennen - both best done with a big swell and a strong sea breeze when the location of both routes provides an amazing experience!) spring to mind as warranting consideration - just don't go expecting 'standard' E2 for Samson - the crux is as safe as trad routes come, but this is reflected by the grade.......
Based on very limited SW experience, but worth commenting that Empire, Thread Flinstone and Magical Mystery tour are at the top of the UK quality scale let alone SW.
The 10 best routes I've done in the South West:
Lunakhod - Lower Sharpnose
Supernatural - Carn Gowla
Formula One - Lundy (now rather fallen down)
Rock Dancer - Carn Kenidjack
Doorpost - Bosigran
Leviathan - The Dewerstone
American Beauty - Lundy
Bosigran Ridge - Bosigran
South Face Direct - Chair Ladder
Right Angle - Gurnard's Head
With honorary mentions for Satan's Slip, Pegasus, Inkerman Groove and Climbers' Club Direct.
Little Brown Jug
Leviathan (far better than Central Groove IMO)
Nearly everything I've done at Bosigran was great, Doorpost perhaps the best. Chair Ladder can be even better, but some routes are wet or dirty, Diocese was brilliant though.
Away from these American Dream at Zawn Kellys is a brilliant single pitch E1, and Helluva Slab was a lot of fun, though probably not remotely one of the best.
Break On Through, Fay, etc
> Most want to avoid:
> The Verger
Rainbow Bridge needs a class of its own. In the "best of the rest":
Interrogation is better than Aviation. I also love Suspension Flake at Hound Tor which is small and perfectly formed, also Toltec Twostep.
Should be something at Chudleigh, I'd say Black Death but Inkerman is a contender.
Arapiles oh Arapiles if you like them short and sweet, Call to Arms if you like a longer adventure.
Not Just Empire is even better than Empire, Avenged could be on the list too.
I've had real fun times on Eroica, but I know I ought to man up and get on Darkinbad so I guess that's Pentire's contribution.
Kafoozalem at Bosi. And as others have said, something at Sharpnose, or maybe everything.
Coronation, the crow (although I haven't finished it yet), Consolation, Stone cold Fever - Street Cheddar
Doorpost, Little Brown Jug, or maybe Anvil Chorus - Bosigran
Climber Club Direct - Dewerstone
King Kong, or Surrealist, or Puma - Wye Valley
Ffoegs Folly, Malbogies, Giants cave Buttress, Hellsgates - Avon
Moonraker - Berry Head
Lightening Wall, Heidelberg Creature, Aventura - Swanage. If its not the ruckle its not right.
Bet you didn't do it properly, with the original adventure approach, and the tide cutting off all hope of a dry retreat!
> Break On Through, Fay, etc
> I've never seen anything that looks like such a heap of dirty pointless terrifying choss. Maybe it's better than it looks?
From everything I know about both the route, and you, I'm going to suggest that you ought to steer well clear of The Verger! I'm quite keen though :o
HVS-E2, done most of below
The Conger - Swanage
Behometh - Swanage
Four for Texas/Rainbow Games
Sharpnose - pick a route
Lost Horizons - Baggy
Berry Head big routes
Chudleigh - I've a soft spot for Combined Ops
Like many others my favourites in the SW were...Barney Rumble, Mayday, Suicide Wall, Scare Ceure, Spiders Web, Out of the Blue (plus many others at sharpnose), Matchless, Avaition and Moonraker.
What is the consesus grade for the Verger, it felt harder than Sacre Couer!
suprised no mention of Heart of Darkness yet.
> suprised no mention of Heart of Darkness yet.
It's a bit Welsh might be why. Unless you are referring to another HoD outside Pembroke.
According to weather forecasters its the SW of the country!
Ooops heart of the Sun!
Down the opposite side of the zawn - you need a low spring tide to cross over to the bottom of the route. Sadly the new guide describes it as 'harrowing' - it really isn't, and it turns the route into a really memorable outing. To be honest, I can't imagine anything ruining the experience (that we had) more than having a f*ck off ab rope dangling next to me all the way up.
In reply to someone else: The Verger is probably about E1/2 ish. Catching it on a dry day when it's cleanish would help - I had to excavate the middle pitch on lead! Tremendous outing though - better (and more serious) than Mousetrap.
> What is the consesus grade for the Verger, it felt harder than Sacre Couer!
Whilst few would argue with the quality of most of the routes already listed, there are dozens of starred routes all along the Atlantic and Culm Coasts, not included in any selected guides, and therefore left to vegetate - literally. Hopefully more people will seek out Mark Kemball's long tick list of daggered routes at:
There's a load of great climbing at all grades amongst that lot!
In the spirit of sending more traffic to less populated and perhaps more adventurous routes:
Potemkin (Kynance Cove): a gentle introduction to climbing on serpentine. 'Only' VS but only one runner (a jammed wire from the first ascent, when I did it)
Black Widow (Dewerstone): I thought this was a nice, well-protected overhang, although quite steep, but according to the logbook it doesn't get done much.
Cyclops Slab (Brean Down): I don't know which I enjoyed more, the overhanging (and somewhat tidal) sand chimney at the start, or the overhanging bramble cornice at the top. However, the main event is a nice slab, with few runners, over a biggish drop.
The Quaker (Sennen): Harder than Smoke On't Watter, according to my notes.
West Face Direct (Chair Ladder): Harder than the Quaker, according to my notes.
Hot Sweet and Sticky (Baggy): Quite thin and with a scary pull onto a hollow block (with your gear behind it), which I'm pretty sure isn't there any more.
I've avoided obvious horrors like Hassle, Big Business and Krapp's Last Tape as too popular.
The Spider at Chudleigh cant be left out!
Black Death at Chudleigh
Combat at Chudleigh
The Spy at Chudleigh
Gagool at Chudleigh
Sly boots McCall at Chudleigh
Tendinitis at Chudleigh
White Life at Chudleigh
Obstreperous at Chudleigh
Army Dreamers at Chudleigh
Doorpost - Bosi
Little Brown Jug - Bosi
Ding - Bosi
Nameless - Bosi
Ochre Slab - the Severe Bosi
Demo Route - Sennen
Africa Route - Sennen (amazed no-one's mentioned it)
Double Overhang - Sennen
Land's End Long Climb - guess where that on is!!!!
Helluva Slab - Hella Point an expedition just to find it but the climb is worth it too!!!!!
Mercury (E2) - Carn Gowla
Xanadu (E2) - Great Zawn
Break On Through (E4) - Sharpnose
Interrogation (E3) - Hay Tor
Captain Swing (E3) - Avon Gorge
Who Can Wait (E6) - Lundy
Eroica (with the peg for aid) (E2) - Pentire
Behemoth (HVS) - Swanage
Ahimsa (E3) - Cheddar
Milky Way (E3) - Lundy
Empire of the Sun (7b - definitely not 7b+) - Anstey's
Thread Flintstone (7a+ - definitely not 7b) - Torbryan
Psychokiller (7c+) - Cheesewring
Halfway to Heaven (7b) - Wallsend
Gubia (7b+) - Cheddar
Just Revenge (7c+) - Anstey's
Me and my Magnum (7a) - Exile Butress
Portland Heights (7a) - Blacknor Central
Mustard Custard (7c) - Long Quarry Point
Birth Pains of New Nations (7b) - Swanage
Deep Water Solo:
Rainbow Bridge (with Cauldron) (7a+) - Berry Head
Cavewoman (6c) - Berry Head
Once a Dogger (7b+) - Long Quarry Point
The Conger (6a+) - Swanage
Pumping Dancefloor Energy (7a+) - London Bridge
Hornier Than Thou (7b+) - Lulworth
Horny Little Devil (7a) - Lulworth
Once a Swinger (7b) - Long Quarry Point
White Rhino Tea (7a) - Berry Head
Animal Magnetism (7a+) - Lulworth
Nether Edge (V7) - Bovey Woods
Rippled Wall (V4) - Bonehill
The Hanging Flake (V4) - Coombeshead Tor
Green Dot Traverse (V8) - Bovey Woods
Spiderland (V7) - Bovey Woods
Slotted Wall (V7) - Bovey Woods
Dancing Queen (V7) - Saddle Tor
Easdon Arete (V7) - Easdon Tor
The Jungle Room (V8+) - Bovey Woods
Devon Sent (V10) - Bovey Woods
There's a few to be going on with. Whilst writing this list it's made me realise just how many classics I haven't done (I cheated a bit on the boulder problems list as I haven't done them all, but I have been on all of them).
Rock dancer (sooo much better than Saxon)
At Baggy I would have gone for Pink Void until the first pitch fell down, so Pickpocket instead
Bow wall and commando ridge
Must get to Berry Head
Mars - Swanage
Coranation Street - Cheddar
Zig Zag - Sennen
Sacre Couer - Black Church
Doorpost - Bosigran
Crinoid - Telegraph Hole
Moonraker - Berry Head (No Abseil)
Smaug The Dragon - Goblin Coombe
Widecombe Wall - Chinkwell Tor
Mascon - Sharpnose
Magical Mystery Tour - Berry Head
Atheist - London Bridge
Spider - Chudleigh
Hostile Witness - Bench Tor
Sacrosanct - Sanctuary Wall
Matchless - Oddwells
Astroll Stroll - Carn Gloose
Scimitar Direct - Dewerstone
Seventh Dread - Berry Head
Eagles Nest - Luckey Tor
Rhinoceros - Low Man
Journey To Ixtlan - Carn Gowla
Rainbow Bridge - Berry Head
The Conger - Swanage
Fay at sharpnose is epic.
Another vote for sacre coure.
Id have double agent over eyefull tower.
CC direct at dewerstone was memorable.
Last exit to torquay is good too.
White rhino tea and magical mystery tour both great.
Moonraker should probably make the list, not done it myself..
I didn't think aviation was that good personally..
> There's a load of great climbing at all grades amongst that lot!
There certainly is but they're all a bit snowy.
I bet you meant these lists really:
How did that happen?!!! Thanks.
I'm not going to include silly grades because I have no knowledge of them and you are unlikely to add them to your ticklist.. I am also going to stick to Devon and Cornwall which seems to be your target area. So in essence we are looking for routes which are perfect in their way....
Darkinbad the Brightdayler – Sustained elegant climbing up the SW's most perfect wall
Interrogation - Better than Aviation. Both thuggy and delicate. A sunny summer evening is recommended.
Wizard of Oz (inc Rainbow Bridge) – Simply the best route in UK – even Steve McClure is a convert in his blog http://www.steve-mcclure.com/blog/view/rainbow_bridge/
Little Brown Jug - Every pitch is a belter and it looks harder than it is
Supernatural – Amazing crack in a perfect wall in an isolated position above the Atlantic breakers.
Moonraker – Shitty yes but no-one forgets their first time.
Dream-Liberator – Starts with a classic bottle test of a jump onto Green Cormorant ledge. Your prize is two pitches of the best positioned climbing in the UK.
Fay – 5b/c all the way sounds easy but this is a classic stamina test. Tops out on a remarkable fin of rock.
The Cull – No small holds but steep all the way. Speed seems the best approach.
Empire of the Sun – Well I guess we had to allow a sports climb in to the list.
Eroica (with the peg for aid) (E2) - Pentire
Not an option - and hasn't really been for ages?
Ha ha Jon - Well I stuck to 10 routes and whilst Kafoozalem is perfect it doesn't have the adventure component or postion of Dream -Liberator. It was painful crossing it off my list.
Moonraker is the best hvs I've done.
Also, not a 'route' but magical mystery tour at the same crag is f*cking brilliant
Little Brown Jug
Heart of the Sun
Sunny Corner Lane
Could easily fit another 10 on there
Elsewhere on the site
A pack designed for year-round ascents. Super light, flexible, strippable and seasonally versatile you can rely on this perennial... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more
Every so often you meet someone in climbing that makes you take a step back. Someone with a fire in their eye, passion in... Read more
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more