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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (331) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=557282
Stats for the week:
IainRUK - Sounds like a nice race. Good result with the limits (shoes and tiredness)
mattrm - Try harder fatty!
NMN - Hope the ankle is better soon.
mbh - 63 miles is another good solid week. re Tues, listen to your body, take the rest
biscuit - The heat has killed my running personally. Nowt wrong with the odd rest week. But now you need to get cracking and get that 8a.
Eagle River - Must have got it this week surely? Weds sounded like a good session!
mrchewey - Lead falls are often good for confidence. Well done on the HVS.
Exile - Well done on the E1.
Curious Yellow - Some good training there. Hope you get the 7b+ soon.
Si dH - Brachiation Dance sounds excellent, well done!
Kevster - Nice going on the E3.
grubes - It's always good to do some climbing with out a guidebook from time to time, can be fun just making stuff up. Hope the knee is better now?
AJM - I'm serious about the Yoga. It's well worth it. Something to do with the missus as well, mine loves it. Well done on Cave Route Right. E6 right? Sounds ace.
stevemarkperry - Sounds like a nice couple of days in the Lakes there.
Nomics4sale - Well done with the E2 onsights. Sounds awesome. First E2, you're crushing it!!!
DanH9883 - Lots of good steady training in there. Ariege sounds nice. Got on any E1s this week?
maria85 - Sounds like a great couple of weeks. Well done on the E1s.
Chestwig - E6 onsight! That's amazing. Well done chap!
Garrouli - Welcome to FC. Just post away. There's a few Bristol folk on here at your kind of level, so I'm sure you'll find some folks. I'm in South Wales, so if you're at the valleys crags, let me know.
Sankey - Glad you had a nice holiday.
leon - I'm sure it'll come back. Be positive. You'll kill I'm sure.
useful - Least you got out climbing twice, so it's all good. You can be as fat as me, you just need to eat lots of cake! Nah, I know I'm not fat, I just respond well to self-abuse.
pork pie girl - Glad to hear you're still making steady progress at Malham.
Nick Russell - Frankenjura looks ace. Glad you had a nice time there.
Luke Owens - Well done on the E2 and the 7bs.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (331) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=557282
Stats for the week:
IainRUK - Sounds like a nice race. Good result with the limits (shoes and tiredness)
mattrm - Try harder fatty!
NMN - Hope the ankle is better soon.
mbh - 63 miles is another good solid week. re Tues, listen to your body, take the rest
biscuit - The heat has killed my running personally. Nowt wrong with the odd rest week. But now you need to get cracking and get that 8a.
Eagle River - Must have got it this week surely? Weds sounded like a good session!
mrchewey - Lead falls are often good for confidence. Well done on the HVS.
Exile - Well done on the E1.
Curious Yellow - Some good training there. Hope you get the 7b+ soon.
Si dH - Brachiation Dance sounds excellent, well done!
Kevster - Nice going on the E3.
grubes - It's always good to do some climbing with out a guidebook from time to time, can be fun just making stuff up. Hope the knee is better now?
AJM - I'm serious about the Yoga. It's well worth it. Something to do with the missus as well, mine loves it. Well done on Cave Route Right. E6 right? Sounds ace.
stevemarkperry - Sounds like a nice couple of days in the Lakes there.
Nomics4sale - Well done with the E2 onsights. Sounds awesome. First E2, you're crushing it!!!
DanH9883 - Lots of good steady training in there. Ariege sounds nice. Got on any E1s this week?
maria85 - Sounds like a great couple of weeks. Well done on the E1s.
Chestwig - E6 onsight! That's amazing. Well done chap!
Garrouli - Welcome to FC. Just post away. There's a few Bristol folk on here at your kind of level, so I'm sure you'll find some folks. I'm in South Wales, so if you're at the valleys crags, let me know.
Sankey - Glad you had a nice holiday.
leon - I'm sure it'll come back. Be positive. You'll kill I'm sure.
useful - Least you got out climbing twice, so it's all good. You can be as fat as me, you just need to eat lots of cake! Nah, I know I'm not fat, I just respond well to self-abuse.
pork pie girl - Glad to hear you're still making steady progress at Malham.
Nick Russell - Frankenjura looks ace. Glad you had a nice time there.
Luke Owens - Well done on the E2 and the 7bs.
In reply to mattrm:
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st)
Weight - 11st 12lbs (same)
M - rest
T - 10k run
W - climbing @ Tirpentwys
T - rest
F - core
S - core
S - fingerboard and yoga
In the interest of full disclosure, I didn't do a 10k last Sunday. I was planning on doing it, but got a full case of CBA. So didn't. Hence the 10k on Tuesday. Once I've done the day's DIY, I rather doubt I'll be feeling like running this evening as well.
Good session on Wednesday at the club night. Got on a bunch of 6bs. Fell off them a lot. But got an idea of how they go now, so when I'm next back there, I'll get some draws in and start working them. Reckon I need to get on a 6c now, as a proper 'redpoint' project. Just got to find one that's near and good. A lot of the 3 star sport routes locally are very forgettable lines, which doesn't make me want to do them. Diet wasn't excellent, but not hideous either. Need to try harder for next week.
Was supposed to be in Pembroke this weekend, but the weather has put paid to that. Short, sharp and very heavy showers here in Wales. So I'm bimbling around the house doing DIY and a bit of general tidying.
So goals from this week:
1 run - tick
1 climb - tick
3 core - tick
good diet - ish
Same for next week. Aiming at two runs tho. And 5 ITB stretches.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st)
Weight - 11st 12lbs (same)
M - rest
T - 10k run
W - climbing @ Tirpentwys
T - rest
F - core
S - core
S - fingerboard and yoga
In the interest of full disclosure, I didn't do a 10k last Sunday. I was planning on doing it, but got a full case of CBA. So didn't. Hence the 10k on Tuesday. Once I've done the day's DIY, I rather doubt I'll be feeling like running this evening as well.
Good session on Wednesday at the club night. Got on a bunch of 6bs. Fell off them a lot. But got an idea of how they go now, so when I'm next back there, I'll get some draws in and start working them. Reckon I need to get on a 6c now, as a proper 'redpoint' project. Just got to find one that's near and good. A lot of the 3 star sport routes locally are very forgettable lines, which doesn't make me want to do them. Diet wasn't excellent, but not hideous either. Need to try harder for next week.
Was supposed to be in Pembroke this weekend, but the weather has put paid to that. Short, sharp and very heavy showers here in Wales. So I'm bimbling around the house doing DIY and a bit of general tidying.
So goals from this week:
1 run - tick
1 climb - tick
3 core - tick
good diet - ish
Same for next week. Aiming at two runs tho. And 5 ITB stretches.
In reply to mattrm:
M. last day in Frakenjura. RP of a 6b+ that I'd been too tired to do clean at the end of day one, attempted a ~7b and dogged a ~7a. Really hot and I was tired at the end of the week so a bit half-hearted on the latter two.
T. travelling back from Germany
W. swimming. This is a rare one for me these days, though I used to swim competitively so easy to get back into it. I felt so good after this that I intend to start going more regularly!
T. 6 mile run
F. I had a really great evening climbing in Avon gorge after work. Climbed New Horizons (big arete up to the ramp) clean, having taken a fall on the overhang trying it last year. (Turns out a week of climbing 45deg roofs makes a tiny overhang in the gorge feel pretty trivial!) Then had another attempt at Them on the upper wall and finally worked it out! I must have been hanging around for a good 10 minutes at the crux trying to figure out what to do, which made the upper section feel pretty hard. (It's not). Anyway, that's a quality E3 link-up which would take a lot of beating!
S. Planned to go to Wye valley, bailed due to the poor weather forecast to come in at about 10:00. Went to TCA instead, did a set of 4x4s on the circuit board. Rain didn't start until about 4. Bad call on the weather.
S. Planned to do Yellow Edge if it dried quickly enough, but my partner left his climbing gear at home in Newport. Went for a 10 mile run instead.
Short term plan (~1 month)
Focus on running. At least maintain climbing level by getting out when possible and actually using my fingerboard.
Medium term goals (this summer season)
Running: Snowdonia marathon in October
Trad: Onsight E3 6a, become solid at E3 on more rock types/climbing styles. Get on more E4s (some a bit higher in the grade)
Sport: Lots of 7a/+ sport climbing (maybe sneaking in an onsight at this level). Redpoint 7b
Longer term goals (probably not this season)
Sport: Paradise Lost, Cheddar
Trad: The Axe, Cloggy
Running: More endurance events, try some fell running
M. last day in Frakenjura. RP of a 6b+ that I'd been too tired to do clean at the end of day one, attempted a ~7b and dogged a ~7a. Really hot and I was tired at the end of the week so a bit half-hearted on the latter two.
T. travelling back from Germany
W. swimming. This is a rare one for me these days, though I used to swim competitively so easy to get back into it. I felt so good after this that I intend to start going more regularly!
T. 6 mile run
F. I had a really great evening climbing in Avon gorge after work. Climbed New Horizons (big arete up to the ramp) clean, having taken a fall on the overhang trying it last year. (Turns out a week of climbing 45deg roofs makes a tiny overhang in the gorge feel pretty trivial!) Then had another attempt at Them on the upper wall and finally worked it out! I must have been hanging around for a good 10 minutes at the crux trying to figure out what to do, which made the upper section feel pretty hard. (It's not). Anyway, that's a quality E3 link-up which would take a lot of beating!
S. Planned to go to Wye valley, bailed due to the poor weather forecast to come in at about 10:00. Went to TCA instead, did a set of 4x4s on the circuit board. Rain didn't start until about 4. Bad call on the weather.
S. Planned to do Yellow Edge if it dried quickly enough, but my partner left his climbing gear at home in Newport. Went for a 10 mile run instead.
Short term plan (~1 month)
Focus on running. At least maintain climbing level by getting out when possible and actually using my fingerboard.
Medium term goals (this summer season)
Running: Snowdonia marathon in October
Trad: Onsight E3 6a, become solid at E3 on more rock types/climbing styles. Get on more E4s (some a bit higher in the grade)
Sport: Lots of 7a/+ sport climbing (maybe sneaking in an onsight at this level). Redpoint 7b
Longer term goals (probably not this season)
Sport: Paradise Lost, Cheddar
Trad: The Axe, Cloggy
Running: More endurance events, try some fell running
In reply to mattrm:
I know how you feel - I've also been frustrated by the weather this weekend. Well, more the weather forecasts. It hasn't turned out anywhere near as bad as expected, in fact quite pleasant, but I'd already cancelled/altered plans. At least some of your DIY is done now so won't take up another weekend!
> Was supposed to be in Pembroke this weekend, but the weather has put paid to that. Short, sharp and very heavy showers here in Wales. So I'm bimbling around the house doing DIY and a bit of general tidying.
I know how you feel - I've also been frustrated by the weather this weekend. Well, more the weather forecasts. It hasn't turned out anywhere near as bad as expected, in fact quite pleasant, but I'd already cancelled/altered plans. At least some of your DIY is done now so won't take up another weekend!
In reply to mattrm:
Hi Matt, thanks for doing the post again. Short post from me this week as Im.on my mobile, and ive not done much training to report!
M-F: nothing! Combination of laziness with having a lot of work done on the house meant no.training of significance this week. Pleased with house though...complete new ch and water system..vast improvement!
S: Cheedale cornice. Repeated further adventures in greendale (6c+?) to warm up. Then tried Une Crime Passionel (E4). Its a sort of hybrid route, with a runout to begin with, then 3 bolts, then a thin crack to the top. I came off by the 2nd bolt, it was really thin and very dusty, and I lost my feet. Then failed near the top of the crack (boxed) and slumped on to a couple of poor microwires...which promptly failed. Took quite a whipper. So, the E4 attempt was an all-round fail! After that, tried the moves on Cry of Despair (7c). Dogged up it twice and got a decent sequence fo most of it. Think it should go in another session or two - psyched to go back.
S: nothing
Si
Hi Matt, thanks for doing the post again. Short post from me this week as Im.on my mobile, and ive not done much training to report!
M-F: nothing! Combination of laziness with having a lot of work done on the house meant no.training of significance this week. Pleased with house though...complete new ch and water system..vast improvement!
S: Cheedale cornice. Repeated further adventures in greendale (6c+?) to warm up. Then tried Une Crime Passionel (E4). Its a sort of hybrid route, with a runout to begin with, then 3 bolts, then a thin crack to the top. I came off by the 2nd bolt, it was really thin and very dusty, and I lost my feet. Then failed near the top of the crack (boxed) and slumped on to a couple of poor microwires...which promptly failed. Took quite a whipper. So, the E4 attempt was an all-round fail! After that, tried the moves on Cry of Despair (7c). Dogged up it twice and got a decent sequence fo most of it. Think it should go in another session or two - psyched to go back.
S: nothing
Si
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers mattrm. Yes the Lakes trip was great, it was so hot though!
Goals:
Get weight back down to around 142 lbs before end of July: Currently 145.0
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!)
MTB fitness increase with consistent riding
This Week:
M: Rest
T: 30km MTB
W: 38km MTB
T: 32km MTB
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Rest
Weekly mountain bike trail distance: 100km.
Cheers mattrm. Yes the Lakes trip was great, it was so hot though!
Goals:
Get weight back down to around 142 lbs before end of July: Currently 145.0
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!)
MTB fitness increase with consistent riding
This Week:
M: Rest
T: 30km MTB
W: 38km MTB
T: 32km MTB
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Rest
Weekly mountain bike trail distance: 100km.
In reply to mattrm:
Don't mean to be the barer of bad news but the weather in Pembroke was perfect this weekend. A couple of short showers. Nothing that stopped any climbing.
Don't mean to be the barer of bad news but the weather in Pembroke was perfect this weekend. A couple of short showers. Nothing that stopped any climbing.
In reply to JimmyKay:
We've only had 3 showers here, so I'm not 100% surprised by that. It's not been a bad thing, got a bit of DIY done and noticed some crap wiring around the house.
> (In reply to mattrm)
>
> Don't mean to be the barer of bad news but the weather in Pembroke was perfect this weekend. A couple of short showers. Nothing that stopped any climbing.
>
> Don't mean to be the barer of bad news but the weather in Pembroke was perfect this weekend. A couple of short showers. Nothing that stopped any climbing.
We've only had 3 showers here, so I'm not 100% surprised by that. It's not been a bad thing, got a bit of DIY done and noticed some crap wiring around the house.
In reply to mattrm:
There is so much wrong with that sentence.
It should have read, "The roof of my house collapsed and the electrics are wrecked because i spent yet another weekend crushing everything at the crag."
There is so much wrong with that sentence.
It should have read, "The roof of my house collapsed and the electrics are wrecked because i spent yet another weekend crushing everything at the crag."
In reply to Nick Russell:
Well done Nick. Based on your experience and what some other friends have said it seems the ban on that area of Avon is being widely ignored now? Or have I missed it being lifted?
Well done Nick. Based on your experience and what some other friends have said it seems the ban on that area of Avon is being widely ignored now? Or have I missed it being lifted?
In reply to AJM:
Cheers. As far as the ban goes, I've heard of a lot of people now climbing on unknown buttress and exploding galaxy wall, but not further left (unknown wall, desecrator, etc.). I think as long as you're giving any loose rock a wide enough margin and being relatively discrete about it (i.e. not topping out behind the fenced off area or belaying off a "no climbing" sign) it's probably ok.
Unfortunately no recent official communication.
Cheers. As far as the ban goes, I've heard of a lot of people now climbing on unknown buttress and exploding galaxy wall, but not further left (unknown wall, desecrator, etc.). I think as long as you're giving any loose rock a wide enough margin and being relatively discrete about it (i.e. not topping out behind the fenced off area or belaying off a "no climbing" sign) it's probably ok.
Unfortunately no recent official communication.
In reply to Nick Russell:
I'd seen people logging stuff like Ladder etc which fits with that sort of view.
The latest comment on ClimbBristol Facebook from Martin makes it clear that no communication = no change and that everything down and left of the ramp is officially still closed.
I'd seen people logging stuff like Ladder etc which fits with that sort of view.
The latest comment on ClimbBristol Facebook from Martin makes it clear that no communication = no change and that everything down and left of the ramp is officially still closed.
In reply to AJM:
Ok, thanks for pointing that out - I hadn't noticed the 15th July posting. Maybe I'll be a bit more hesitant to go that way again (even if Ladder and Yellow Edge are right at the top of my current Avon wishlist!)
Ok, thanks for pointing that out - I hadn't noticed the 15th July posting. Maybe I'll be a bit more hesitant to go that way again (even if Ladder and Yellow Edge are right at the top of my current Avon wishlist!)
In reply to Nick Russell: Aye not a bad race.. main thing is to be back training..
m: 10 mile hike Bavaria. 8 mile trail run bavaria
t: rep session.. 10 miles.. 1 mile warm up then 3 x 200m reps then 1 x 5k rep.. then 3 x 1k rep.. 3 x 500m reps.. along iser.. Bad Tolz, Bavaria.
w: 13.1 mile trail run at 6:12 pace.. brutal session
t: am: 5 mile road run. pm: 12 miles with 10 x 600m trail run reps.
f: 8 mile road run tired
s: 13.5 mile road and trail run
s: am: 2 mile warm up. 12 km trail race.. won. pm: 4.8 mile road run
m: 10 mile hike Bavaria. 8 mile trail run bavaria
t: rep session.. 10 miles.. 1 mile warm up then 3 x 200m reps then 1 x 5k rep.. then 3 x 1k rep.. 3 x 500m reps.. along iser.. Bad Tolz, Bavaria.
w: 13.1 mile trail run at 6:12 pace.. brutal session
t: am: 5 mile road run. pm: 12 miles with 10 x 600m trail run reps.
f: 8 mile road run tired
s: 13.5 mile road and trail run
s: am: 2 mile warm up. 12 km trail race.. won. pm: 4.8 mile road run
In reply to JimmyKay:
You're probably right. It's why after 4 years I'm still struggling at VS and 6a.
> (In reply to mattrm)
>
> There is so much wrong with that sentence.
>
> It should have read, "The roof of my house collapsed and the electrics are wrecked because i spent yet another weekend crushing everything at the crag."
>
> There is so much wrong with that sentence.
>
> It should have read, "The roof of my house collapsed and the electrics are wrecked because i spent yet another weekend crushing everything at the crag."
You're probably right. It's why after 4 years I'm still struggling at VS and 6a.
In reply to mattrm:
In trying to correct a typo, I have deleted my entire post, the gist of which was
58 miles running in 6 runs, some on coast paths, 1500 m ish of ascent, 3.2 km swimming and 62 m cycling.
And thank you Matt for starting it all off this week.
In trying to correct a typo, I have deleted my entire post, the gist of which was
58 miles running in 6 runs, some on coast paths, 1500 m ish of ascent, 3.2 km swimming and 62 m cycling.
And thank you Matt for starting it all off this week.
In reply to mattrm: Hey, had a few weeks off due to house finding/moving, being on holiday, being injured and generally feeling a bit down about training. But now back to being super-psyched! Including last Sunday in post as that's where this week started.
S - biked and walked for 3hrs into the Hutchinson hut in the Cairngorms. Definitely felt total lack of fitness (particularly hill fitness) and have several comedy falling off bike moments due to massive pack.
M - Climbed Scabbard (VS) on Stob Coire Etchachan - led pitches 1 and 3. Was fun climbing but combination of mountain environment, route-finding and getting used to the Cairngorm granite (all those nice looking cracks which turn out to be shallow gear-less grooves...) meant it felt hard enough. E2 line looked awesome but condfidence def not with it. Walked up to the lochan and up a hill to finish the day off. Beautiful weather.
T - Climbing Talisman (HS) - led pitches 1 and 3. Started raining as I was seconding pitch 2 and starting pitch 3 which freaked me out slightly (being faced by blank, wet, gearless slab) but eased off by the time we got to the top. Got soaked walking down. Walked/biked out to the car park.
W - Headed back to friends house - got totally psyched by their immensely awesome home wall and insisted on an afternoon session. Felt totally broken trying circuits on barrel, 30 degree and 45 degree boards.
T - Wet (boo!) so did a 40min session on treadmill then probably should have rested but dragged lyons for another session on the boards. Core and arms aching but great work out - very psyched for training.
F - Dried up in afternoon so headed to Portlethen - got The Lurcher (7a) 3rd good - pretty bouldery so fairly please especially as I felt wasted from previous days.
S - rest
S - First day of Scottish 6 day orienteering. Succeeded in not getting lost which was the main aim of the day, so pretty pleased. Not particularly fast but nice to get a steady run in the bag. Still waiting for results to be posted...
Trad head still shot which is disappointing - I think E2 won't happen this year now, as need to focus on sport for upcoming trip to Kalymnos. But was great to get out into the mountains and be away from civilisation for a few days. And have totally got my psyche back for training - just hope I can continue this when back in London. Possibly more importantly, its been nice to finally relax after a couple of really tiring, stressful months.
S - biked and walked for 3hrs into the Hutchinson hut in the Cairngorms. Definitely felt total lack of fitness (particularly hill fitness) and have several comedy falling off bike moments due to massive pack.
M - Climbed Scabbard (VS) on Stob Coire Etchachan - led pitches 1 and 3. Was fun climbing but combination of mountain environment, route-finding and getting used to the Cairngorm granite (all those nice looking cracks which turn out to be shallow gear-less grooves...) meant it felt hard enough. E2 line looked awesome but condfidence def not with it. Walked up to the lochan and up a hill to finish the day off. Beautiful weather.
T - Climbing Talisman (HS) - led pitches 1 and 3. Started raining as I was seconding pitch 2 and starting pitch 3 which freaked me out slightly (being faced by blank, wet, gearless slab) but eased off by the time we got to the top. Got soaked walking down. Walked/biked out to the car park.
W - Headed back to friends house - got totally psyched by their immensely awesome home wall and insisted on an afternoon session. Felt totally broken trying circuits on barrel, 30 degree and 45 degree boards.
T - Wet (boo!) so did a 40min session on treadmill then probably should have rested but dragged lyons for another session on the boards. Core and arms aching but great work out - very psyched for training.
F - Dried up in afternoon so headed to Portlethen - got The Lurcher (7a) 3rd good - pretty bouldery so fairly please especially as I felt wasted from previous days.
S - rest
S - First day of Scottish 6 day orienteering. Succeeded in not getting lost which was the main aim of the day, so pretty pleased. Not particularly fast but nice to get a steady run in the bag. Still waiting for results to be posted...
Trad head still shot which is disappointing - I think E2 won't happen this year now, as need to focus on sport for upcoming trip to Kalymnos. But was great to get out into the mountains and be away from civilisation for a few days. And have totally got my psyche back for training - just hope I can continue this when back in London. Possibly more importantly, its been nice to finally relax after a couple of really tiring, stressful months.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt
STG: The ashes
Mon: kilnsey evening session, did 50 for 5 first redpoint, glad to get that done, took two full sessions and one further attempt. Clipped up the ashes and had one go on top rope.
Wed: Kilnsey afternoon session. On the ashes on top rope all session, got sequences for all of it.
Sat: Kilnsey. Lead attempts/working session on the ashes. Lead consistently to the eyes (2/3rds of the route) then fell from crux moves above. I've got that section sorted now so need to work on the section from the eyes to the top, that'd be a good link to get as it contains the hardest climbing.
In summary: the ashes is brilliant. Absolutely mega route, long and steep with hard crux sections but nothing completely stopper. bits are run out which adds a bit of spice and it's going to be terrifying clipping the last bolt from the rounded boss when pumped crazy. Can't wait to get back on it.
Cheers Matt
STG: The ashes
Mon: kilnsey evening session, did 50 for 5 first redpoint, glad to get that done, took two full sessions and one further attempt. Clipped up the ashes and had one go on top rope.
Wed: Kilnsey afternoon session. On the ashes on top rope all session, got sequences for all of it.
Sat: Kilnsey. Lead attempts/working session on the ashes. Lead consistently to the eyes (2/3rds of the route) then fell from crux moves above. I've got that section sorted now so need to work on the section from the eyes to the top, that'd be a good link to get as it contains the hardest climbing.
In summary: the ashes is brilliant. Absolutely mega route, long and steep with hard crux sections but nothing completely stopper. bits are run out which adds a bit of spice and it's going to be terrifying clipping the last bolt from the rounded boss when pumped crazy. Can't wait to get back on it.
In reply to mattrm: Thanks Matt.
Mon - Fingerboard. 7 sets of 10 x 7/3. Used small campus rail and various 2 finger pockets - probably the hardest session I've done.
Tue - Worked late.
Wed - Worked late. Decided I was going to get on Cenetaph Corner and not Cemetary Gates this weekend. Psyched!
Thu - Dislocated ring finger on right hand. Gutted.
Fri - Drive to Wales.
Sat - Started up Cemetary Gates seconding fine BUT came to a stop a third of the way up - just couldn't push off the right hand. So pissed with being injured.
Sun - Dinorwig. Led some VS thing as needed to do at least something. Then toproped Goose Creature E3 6a. Finger stopped me at the crux but I think I have a target route!
Couldn't believe I popped a finger - was told after the crash that I'd do this 2/3 times a year but this was the first time in 6 years. I'd been so psyched to get to the Cromlech from the minute Dale decided to get on Left Wall. Ho hum. At least I was solid on CG till then. Dale managed CG, Left Wall and Cenetaph Corner. I just stood belaying and getting more and more peed off in my head. I'm so injury prone.
11 weeks ago, I'd never led a VS, so I should have been happy coming home from Wales with another one under my belt but it just feels like I massively underachieved this weekend.
Goose Creature... now here's the thing. Reckon I could happily get to the first bolt, then there's nothing dramatic to the second. Clip that and then it gets a bit thin. Not flexible to do it yet, even if the hand had been okay but I'm not millions of miles away. I'm gonna work towards this one tho, yeh I like it. Dale peeled off once at the crux, shame he missed the onsight.
So a really rubbish week but at least I bagged a VS onsight despite freshly dislocated finger.
Mon - Fingerboard. 7 sets of 10 x 7/3. Used small campus rail and various 2 finger pockets - probably the hardest session I've done.
Tue - Worked late.
Wed - Worked late. Decided I was going to get on Cenetaph Corner and not Cemetary Gates this weekend. Psyched!
Thu - Dislocated ring finger on right hand. Gutted.
Fri - Drive to Wales.
Sat - Started up Cemetary Gates seconding fine BUT came to a stop a third of the way up - just couldn't push off the right hand. So pissed with being injured.
Sun - Dinorwig. Led some VS thing as needed to do at least something. Then toproped Goose Creature E3 6a. Finger stopped me at the crux but I think I have a target route!
Couldn't believe I popped a finger - was told after the crash that I'd do this 2/3 times a year but this was the first time in 6 years. I'd been so psyched to get to the Cromlech from the minute Dale decided to get on Left Wall. Ho hum. At least I was solid on CG till then. Dale managed CG, Left Wall and Cenetaph Corner. I just stood belaying and getting more and more peed off in my head. I'm so injury prone.
11 weeks ago, I'd never led a VS, so I should have been happy coming home from Wales with another one under my belt but it just feels like I massively underachieved this weekend.
Goose Creature... now here's the thing. Reckon I could happily get to the first bolt, then there's nothing dramatic to the second. Clip that and then it gets a bit thin. Not flexible to do it yet, even if the hand had been okay but I'm not millions of miles away. I'm gonna work towards this one tho, yeh I like it. Dale peeled off once at the crux, shame he missed the onsight.
So a really rubbish week but at least I bagged a VS onsight despite freshly dislocated finger.
In reply to mattrm:
E6 - well, ish. Depending on how you approach it, it might be E6 or it might be 7b+. For me it was the latter though. I had all the quick draws preplaced on the gear, I had the 2 wires I actually used preplaced as well. I was just clipping and going. I think I clipped 9 bolts, 6 pegs and 2 wires in a 30-35m pitch. I was quite happy with most of the pegs but the wires effectively backed up pegs in certain places anyway and there were some other backups I could have placed if I had wanted. I think there's only one place on the route where a bolt wouldn't actually save you if all else failed, and you're on relatively easy ground and would have to rip 2 pegs and a wire to get yourself into that situation. Because of having long extended draws on some of the gear, and the mix of gear, it definitely had a traddy vibe, but it was sport climbing really.
Good week for me.
Monday - Wales. Should have just gone home really. Backed off an E3, could see the last move I needed to do but the fight wasn't there. Rested on an E4/5 because I missed a useful foothold. Lost my nut key abbing an E6 to retrieve my friends gear.
Wednesday - Huntsham. Good progress on Ames Low. I've got 14 moves to be matched on the big holds, not done 13-14 yet as you have to get quite horizontal and I'd quite like a spotter for that bit. So I was working 1-12. Managed 1-8, 1-9, and 2x 5-12. Hopefully link the whole lot next time and maybe even work on the full link if I can get company down there.
Friday - Witches Point. Nice crag. Did 6a+, 6b+ to warm up. Got on a 7b+, This god is mine. Nice little power endurance route. Dogged it, one refining go, then second redpoint I think. Found a useful kneebar and heel-toe. First 7b+ in a day I think. Tried to flash a 7a but the beta was wrong for me, didn't get back on it to save skin. Seconded a traversey 6b to retrieve draws.
Saturday - Kilnsey. Seconded Central Wall. 2 rests, popped off the start, then off the crux. Might have done them on lead but couldn't really up-down to the ground or rests on second as I couldn't see and couldn't really communicate with Ally up on the belay. Still would have probably got spanked though its hard! Then got on The Ashes. 3 goes up it I think. Linked to a few moves shy of the eyes, and got from the eyes up to the holds you throw to the boss from but without feet set right. All moves to the final break done.
Sunday - seconded full Directissima to warm up. Then got on Ashes, worked the moves up into the eyes. Second time up a bit more work on the throw to the eyes and worked the crux section and how to get established on the boss. Last go I was beasted, flamed out a few moves shy of the eyes. Managed some decent linking bits on the crux, sorted out how to get established on the boss and clipped that clip on lead, and linked from the boss to the top.
< route breakdown, to help this make sense - roughly 7b up to a pair,of juggy pockets called the eyes, with the crux section of this 7b being the last few moves to the eyes. Then, missing a dogging clip, you launch into an 8 move sequence, maybe V4 or something, to get up to an obvious sloping boss. Match this, shake very briefly, clip the last clip, one more hard move to a break, then run it out up some easy ground, maybe 6b+, to the top. Monster ride if you blow the last moves onto the ledge containing the belay >
So a little 7b+ on Friday, nice to get a quick tick on a nice new crag. Also, either I am very bad comparatively on pe boulder traverses in comparison to pe routes or Ames Low translates to nearer 7c as a mini-route. Either way it's doing me good and I'm making progress on it.
And I seem to have got sucked into a project. One of the best routes I've been on in ages. Shame to not get the link to the eyes but it should go next time. Hopefully a link through the crux from eyes to boss too, wasn't a million miles off on best go on Saturday, and if I can do that I can probably plough on to the top, which means it will be in two. Fingers crossed!
Hopefully back up at Kilnsey second half of next week, when biscuit is around. Nomics, Steve, Ally, biscuit - hopefully catch you up there...
> AJM - I'm serious about the Yoga. It's well worth it. Something to do with the missus as well, mine loves it. Well done on Cave Route Right. E6 right? Sounds ace.
E6 - well, ish. Depending on how you approach it, it might be E6 or it might be 7b+. For me it was the latter though. I had all the quick draws preplaced on the gear, I had the 2 wires I actually used preplaced as well. I was just clipping and going. I think I clipped 9 bolts, 6 pegs and 2 wires in a 30-35m pitch. I was quite happy with most of the pegs but the wires effectively backed up pegs in certain places anyway and there were some other backups I could have placed if I had wanted. I think there's only one place on the route where a bolt wouldn't actually save you if all else failed, and you're on relatively easy ground and would have to rip 2 pegs and a wire to get yourself into that situation. Because of having long extended draws on some of the gear, and the mix of gear, it definitely had a traddy vibe, but it was sport climbing really.
Good week for me.
Monday - Wales. Should have just gone home really. Backed off an E3, could see the last move I needed to do but the fight wasn't there. Rested on an E4/5 because I missed a useful foothold. Lost my nut key abbing an E6 to retrieve my friends gear.
Wednesday - Huntsham. Good progress on Ames Low. I've got 14 moves to be matched on the big holds, not done 13-14 yet as you have to get quite horizontal and I'd quite like a spotter for that bit. So I was working 1-12. Managed 1-8, 1-9, and 2x 5-12. Hopefully link the whole lot next time and maybe even work on the full link if I can get company down there.
Friday - Witches Point. Nice crag. Did 6a+, 6b+ to warm up. Got on a 7b+, This god is mine. Nice little power endurance route. Dogged it, one refining go, then second redpoint I think. Found a useful kneebar and heel-toe. First 7b+ in a day I think. Tried to flash a 7a but the beta was wrong for me, didn't get back on it to save skin. Seconded a traversey 6b to retrieve draws.
Saturday - Kilnsey. Seconded Central Wall. 2 rests, popped off the start, then off the crux. Might have done them on lead but couldn't really up-down to the ground or rests on second as I couldn't see and couldn't really communicate with Ally up on the belay. Still would have probably got spanked though its hard! Then got on The Ashes. 3 goes up it I think. Linked to a few moves shy of the eyes, and got from the eyes up to the holds you throw to the boss from but without feet set right. All moves to the final break done.
Sunday - seconded full Directissima to warm up. Then got on Ashes, worked the moves up into the eyes. Second time up a bit more work on the throw to the eyes and worked the crux section and how to get established on the boss. Last go I was beasted, flamed out a few moves shy of the eyes. Managed some decent linking bits on the crux, sorted out how to get established on the boss and clipped that clip on lead, and linked from the boss to the top.
< route breakdown, to help this make sense - roughly 7b up to a pair,of juggy pockets called the eyes, with the crux section of this 7b being the last few moves to the eyes. Then, missing a dogging clip, you launch into an 8 move sequence, maybe V4 or something, to get up to an obvious sloping boss. Match this, shake very briefly, clip the last clip, one more hard move to a break, then run it out up some easy ground, maybe 6b+, to the top. Monster ride if you blow the last moves onto the ledge containing the belay >
So a little 7b+ on Friday, nice to get a quick tick on a nice new crag. Also, either I am very bad comparatively on pe boulder traverses in comparison to pe routes or Ames Low translates to nearer 7c as a mini-route. Either way it's doing me good and I'm making progress on it.
And I seem to have got sucked into a project. One of the best routes I've been on in ages. Shame to not get the link to the eyes but it should go next time. Hopefully a link through the crux from eyes to boss too, wasn't a million miles off on best go on Saturday, and if I can do that I can probably plough on to the top, which means it will be in two. Fingers crossed!
Hopefully back up at Kilnsey second half of next week, when biscuit is around. Nomics, Steve, Ally, biscuit - hopefully catch you up there...
In reply to mattrm:
Not that I've done it, but the one at Witches...?
> Reckon I need to get on a 6c now, as a proper 'redpoint' project. Just got to find one that's near and good. A lot of the 3 star sport routes locally are very forgettable lines, which doesn't make me want to do them.
Not that I've done it, but the one at Witches...?
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks mattrm.
Ankle still bad.
Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.
STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.
M: - doctors to see what painkillers I could get to help while;
T: - working away.
W: - working away.
T: – working away.
F: - working away.
Thanks mattrm.
Ankle still bad.
Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.
STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.
M: - doctors to see what painkillers I could get to help while;
T: - working away.
W: - working away.
T: – working away.
F: - working away.
In reply to mattrm:
Hi all, I sort of feel like I ought to apologise for going awol, I was a fairly regular fit club poster until February until a series of events caused me to completely lose my psyche and take a bit of a step back. Happily I did get it back and am having an excellent summer of climbing so far, and have just started training for a trip to Argentina at Xmas. In light of this I thought I'd start posting here again, to keep up the momentum.
Monday: 45min run
Tuesday; 10mile cycle, 2hr boulder session (rubbish), gym (squats)
Wednesday: 10mile cycle
Thursday: 10mile cycle, bouldering and leading (excellent)
Friday: rest
Saturday: bouldering, gym (deadlifts and benchpress)
Sunday: 2hr hilly walk with heavy daypack
Goals:
Am currently peaking at VS, 6b, and V2. Want to get steady at these rather than it being so hit and miss.
Improve all round fitness (cardio and strength) for Argentina, including getting back to 1xbw squat and 1.5xbw deadlift.
Run half marathon in October without dying, preferably sub 2h. Need to sign up for one or two 10km in the meantime.
Hi all, I sort of feel like I ought to apologise for going awol, I was a fairly regular fit club poster until February until a series of events caused me to completely lose my psyche and take a bit of a step back. Happily I did get it back and am having an excellent summer of climbing so far, and have just started training for a trip to Argentina at Xmas. In light of this I thought I'd start posting here again, to keep up the momentum.
Monday: 45min run
Tuesday; 10mile cycle, 2hr boulder session (rubbish), gym (squats)
Wednesday: 10mile cycle
Thursday: 10mile cycle, bouldering and leading (excellent)
Friday: rest
Saturday: bouldering, gym (deadlifts and benchpress)
Sunday: 2hr hilly walk with heavy daypack
Goals:
Am currently peaking at VS, 6b, and V2. Want to get steady at these rather than it being so hit and miss.
Improve all round fitness (cardio and strength) for Argentina, including getting back to 1xbw squat and 1.5xbw deadlift.
Run half marathon in October without dying, preferably sub 2h. Need to sign up for one or two 10km in the meantime.
In reply to mattrm:
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Lead E2 try onsight
MTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Grand wall at squamish
E3/4
Goals for this week
try hard
M: Buckstones. Above the road lots of easy ticks one 6A flash.
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: rest
F: rest
S: Almscliff fell from the top out of flying arete took too long rebuilding the muscle memory for the crux and was too tired for the top out. tried crucifix arete but right knee was not having it. Tried crucifix low but skin was getting abit thin for committing to hanging the sloper on the lip. repeated a 6B to finish the day
S: Depot light session. indoor milage taking it easy on my right knee.
Next week's goals:
pass
Knee not good still. lack of cracks is key issue at min
> grubes - It's always good to do some climbing with out a guidebook from time to time, can be fun just making stuff up. Hope the knee is better now?
STG (July 2013):Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Lead E2 try onsight
MTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Grand wall at squamish
E3/4
Goals for this week
try hard
M: Buckstones. Above the road lots of easy ticks one 6A flash.
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: rest
F: rest
S: Almscliff fell from the top out of flying arete took too long rebuilding the muscle memory for the crux and was too tired for the top out. tried crucifix arete but right knee was not having it. Tried crucifix low but skin was getting abit thin for committing to hanging the sloper on the lip. repeated a 6B to finish the day
S: Depot light session. indoor milage taking it easy on my right knee.
Next week's goals:
pass
Knee not good still. lack of cracks is key issue at min
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers matt.
STG: Ground Effect (7b) at Kilnsey, trad E1s and E2s, work on remembering sequences for RPs.
MTG: 7a flash or in a day or quick 7b RP in Spain.
LTG: lots of E2s, maybe look at E3, RP 7b+.
Mon: nowt
Tues: 5 mile local flat trail run
Weds: Kilnsey, top roped Ground Effect. Arse kicked.
Thurs: 4.3 nile local flat trail run
Fri: Gimmer, lead onsight Spring Bank E2 5c (woo!)
Sat: Goat Crags, alt lead onsight Praying Mantis (E1 5b, I got crux pitch) then alt lead onsight Tumbleweed Connection (E2 5c, I didn't get scary hard crux pitch but 5b pitch was good).
Sun: 7 mile run from Buttermere to Ennerdale, 600m ascent. Got very lost!
Kilnsey on Wednesday was depressingly hard. I hadn't been for nearly 3 weeks and I've lost whatever fitness or strength I had for Ground Effect. I'm thinking I'll get there more regularly now as the weather seems to be pointing that way and hopefully I can get Ground Effect done soonish. It it feels a bit unlikely at the moment.
Not been running so much recently, mainly because my legs have felt tired from all the walk ins (poor me!). Hopefully I'll start feeling a bit fitter soon so I can get out on longer runs again.
Cheers matt.
STG: Ground Effect (7b) at Kilnsey, trad E1s and E2s, work on remembering sequences for RPs.
MTG: 7a flash or in a day or quick 7b RP in Spain.
LTG: lots of E2s, maybe look at E3, RP 7b+.
Mon: nowt
Tues: 5 mile local flat trail run
Weds: Kilnsey, top roped Ground Effect. Arse kicked.
Thurs: 4.3 nile local flat trail run
Fri: Gimmer, lead onsight Spring Bank E2 5c (woo!)
Sat: Goat Crags, alt lead onsight Praying Mantis (E1 5b, I got crux pitch) then alt lead onsight Tumbleweed Connection (E2 5c, I didn't get scary hard crux pitch but 5b pitch was good).
Sun: 7 mile run from Buttermere to Ennerdale, 600m ascent. Got very lost!
Kilnsey on Wednesday was depressingly hard. I hadn't been for nearly 3 weeks and I've lost whatever fitness or strength I had for Ground Effect. I'm thinking I'll get there more regularly now as the weather seems to be pointing that way and hopefully I can get Ground Effect done soonish. It it feels a bit unlikely at the moment.
Not been running so much recently, mainly because my legs have felt tired from all the walk ins (poor me!). Hopefully I'll start feeling a bit fitter soon so I can get out on longer runs again.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Well done on Springbank! Don't be disheartened about Ground Effect - it'll soon come back.
I'm hoping to be up there mid-late next week (Wed-Fri or Wed-Sat perhaps) when biscuit is about, so be good to meet up then? Need some belayers to justify the trip if nothing else
Well done on Springbank! Don't be disheartened about Ground Effect - it'll soon come back.
I'm hoping to be up there mid-late next week (Wed-Fri or Wed-Sat perhaps) when biscuit is about, so be good to meet up then? Need some belayers to justify the trip if nothing else
In reply to AJM:
Cheers re Spring Bank, and yeah I am hoping GE will start to feel a bit easier at some point soon. Needs to otherwise I won't get it done!
Not sure what I'm doing this week, in theory the plan is to go to North Wales on Thursday and Friday but if the weather looks rubbish I'll probably be at Kilnsey one or two of your days. What's biscuit up to? Do you have everyone's email? Maybe mail everyone likely to be at Kilnsey so we can sort out who's doing what and when?
Cheers re Spring Bank, and yeah I am hoping GE will start to feel a bit easier at some point soon. Needs to otherwise I won't get it done!
Not sure what I'm doing this week, in theory the plan is to go to North Wales on Thursday and Friday but if the weather looks rubbish I'll probably be at Kilnsey one or two of your days. What's biscuit up to? Do you have everyone's email? Maybe mail everyone likely to be at Kilnsey so we can sort out who's doing what and when?
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Maybe it's just because I'm still a bit of a punter when it comes to running, but I normally find that a week or so of walking in the mountains and/or with a heavy rucksack does wonders for my running when I get back into it.
> legs have felt tired from all the walk ins (poor me!). Hopefully I'll start feeling a bit fitter soon so I can get out on longer runs again.
Maybe it's just because I'm still a bit of a punter when it comes to running, but I normally find that a week or so of walking in the mountains and/or with a heavy rucksack does wonders for my running when I get back into it.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Ah sorry - I think he said he was about 7-10 August or something so it was next week I was thinking of rather than this one.
Yes was going to send out an email to everyone whose email I can find, since biscuit hasn't done so and I want to nail down some Kilnsey partners to help feed my Ashes obsession
Ah sorry - I think he said he was about 7-10 August or something so it was next week I was thinking of rather than this one.
Yes was going to send out an email to everyone whose email I can find, since biscuit hasn't done so and I want to nail down some Kilnsey partners to help feed my Ashes obsession
In reply to AJM:
Makes sense, that week I should be around either thursday or friday, planning trad on Wednesday but that decision will be made by the weather gods not me!
Makes sense, that week I should be around either thursday or friday, planning trad on Wednesday but that decision will be made by the weather gods not me!
In reply to Nick Russell:
Hope it does me wonders too! I sort of think it should work the other way round too - putting in a few hill miles running should make the walk ins easier but I still always arrive at the crag in a knackered sweaty heap. I like to think it's the heavy sack rather than my unfitness!
Hope it does me wonders too! I sort of think it should work the other way round too - putting in a few hill miles running should make the walk ins easier but I still always arrive at the crag in a knackered sweaty heap. I like to think it's the heavy sack rather than my unfitness!
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Doesn't increased hill fitness just mean you arrive at the crag slightly faster but just as sweaty
You should have mail btw, assuming I've translated username to actual name correctly when trawling back through my email history!
Doesn't increased hill fitness just mean you arrive at the crag slightly faster but just as sweaty
You should have mail btw, assuming I've translated username to actual name correctly when trawling back through my email history!
In reply to mrchewy:
Ouch! hope it's ok now. Good effort climbing the days after too.
> (In reply to mattrm) Thanks Matt.
> Thu - Dislocated ring finger on right hand. Gutted.
Ouch! hope it's ok now. Good effort climbing the days after too.
In reply to mattrm: Cheers, but like AJM says, it's not really E6. We talked it over this weekend, and decided it'd get 5.12c, no R, no X, just 5.12c - does tat make sense?
Anyhow - mixed week for me. Not sure if I've over trained, or caught some grot, but first half of the week was a real struggle.
VLTG (Sept 2014?) - complete 3 peaks Cyclo-cross race
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond
MTG (Summer 2013)
SUP ext at Pigeons - cruising the bottom section, just need to work out a way to do the crux which is currently very low percentage for me. Not been down to Pigeons for ages - may end up removing this from MTG
"To do" list at Kilnsey; The Bulge (tick), Mandela, Urgent Action. Maybe investigate Full Tilt and Steal the Show?
New additions: Insomnia at Dinbren, Supercool in Gordale & K3 down the dale. Trad project in Clwyd
Fit in some trad: Positron, King Wad, Cave Route Right (tick) & Central Wall (Kilnsey tick) currently motivate me. Who's keen?
STG
- Finger re-hab - stay on top of injuries and avoid Melancholie!
- Shoulder/elbow physio - shoulder has stopped aching, but Diamond season is almost upon us and one of my projects has some super shouldery moves Thera-band and gym sessions this week
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week
- Continue with core and flexibility work
- Lose some weight; new aim <73kg - 75.1kg and 6.7% BF
The week just gone:
M - Rest - Cycled to work and back - 16miles ish
T - Rest - sat on bum
W - Rest - sat on bum
T - Pinfold - 6c+/7a warm-up, then 7b flash with beta from Luke, followed by an E4 6b on-sight. Had to fight.
F - Rest - sat on bum
S - Kilnsey. Central Wall was more of a warm-up than I'd bargained for! Probably on route for >1hr, kept finding extra gear when I remembered mention of a run-out, so ended up with 18runners in. Then dogged Mandela twice, second time up with some good links - soft shoes helped massively.
S - Back to Kilnsey. Pi$$ed it down overnight but put draws back up Directissima and hoped Mandela would dry out. Dogged "I ain't no sponsored hero" then flashed Rubble and 50-for-5 before doing "I ain't..." 2nd redpoint. 1st RP I was shut down by missing crucial sloper. Tough 7c. Mandela was drying out as we left, but then it rained again driving home
Anyhow - mixed week for me. Not sure if I've over trained, or caught some grot, but first half of the week was a real struggle.
VLTG (Sept 2014?) - complete 3 peaks Cyclo-cross race
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond
MTG (Summer 2013)
SUP ext at Pigeons - cruising the bottom section, just need to work out a way to do the crux which is currently very low percentage for me. Not been down to Pigeons for ages - may end up removing this from MTG
"To do" list at Kilnsey; The Bulge (tick), Mandela, Urgent Action. Maybe investigate Full Tilt and Steal the Show?
New additions: Insomnia at Dinbren, Supercool in Gordale & K3 down the dale. Trad project in Clwyd
Fit in some trad: Positron, King Wad, Cave Route Right (tick) & Central Wall (Kilnsey tick) currently motivate me. Who's keen?
STG
- Finger re-hab - stay on top of injuries and avoid Melancholie!
- Shoulder/elbow physio - shoulder has stopped aching, but Diamond season is almost upon us and one of my projects has some super shouldery moves Thera-band and gym sessions this week
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week
- Continue with core and flexibility work
- Lose some weight; new aim <73kg - 75.1kg and 6.7% BF
The week just gone:
M - Rest - Cycled to work and back - 16miles ish
T - Rest - sat on bum
W - Rest - sat on bum
T - Pinfold - 6c+/7a warm-up, then 7b flash with beta from Luke, followed by an E4 6b on-sight. Had to fight.
F - Rest - sat on bum
S - Kilnsey. Central Wall was more of a warm-up than I'd bargained for! Probably on route for >1hr, kept finding extra gear when I remembered mention of a run-out, so ended up with 18runners in. Then dogged Mandela twice, second time up with some good links - soft shoes helped massively.
S - Back to Kilnsey. Pi$$ed it down overnight but put draws back up Directissima and hoped Mandela would dry out. Dogged "I ain't no sponsored hero" then flashed Rubble and 50-for-5 before doing "I ain't..." 2nd redpoint. 1st RP I was shut down by missing crucial sloper. Tough 7c. Mandela was drying out as we left, but then it rained again driving home
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt!
Monday - Rest
Tuesday - My birthday - Went climbing all day with my girlfriend. Had planned to go to Kilnsey but weather turned, ended up at Llanddulas.
Continuing my steep route/problems campaign I did a long steep F6c+ "Vegas Nights" first go after putting the clips in. Massively pumped at the top and almost fell off clipping the chains!
Headed down to LPT, no one was there! Quickly realised why when I tried to on-sight Pink Pinky F7a. It was really greasy, awful conditions. I fell off the bottom but got all the moves wired for next time.
Wednesday - Rest (No skin left!)
Thursday - Pinfold with Ally. Put clips in on Through the Grapevine F7b, a direct start on a F7a I did last year. Worked out the lower steep crux, had a redpoint but hadn't worked out the first move properly. Got it 2nd go, probably the quickest I've ever done a F7b but I had done the top half last year - Psyched!
Friday - Rest
Saturday - Deadhangs - Progress on all grip types again, can now hang 3 finger open hand on the 30mm edges for 22 secs.
Did 3 sets on, 3 finger open, slopers, 4 finger half crimp, middle 2, front 2 and back 2.
Also did 4 x 30 reps of free weight shrugs with 13kg in each hand.
Sunday - Devil's Gorge - Strong scene down there with ropes up on 4 routes! Busiest I've seen it.
Steep route campaign continues and got on a mega steep F7b "Broccoli and Ice-cream". Lower crux has a hard V4-ish boulder problem to a good rest then the upper section is really steep on massive jugs, really awesome!
Lower crux felt a lot easier than when I tried it a couple of months ago. First time on top section and dogged up it doing all the moves with relative ease. Psyched for it, going to head back this week.
Did some core and more shrugs when I got home.
Great week for me, enjoying throwing myself at stuff I'm not used too!
Cheers Matt!
Monday - Rest
Tuesday - My birthday - Went climbing all day with my girlfriend. Had planned to go to Kilnsey but weather turned, ended up at Llanddulas.
Continuing my steep route/problems campaign I did a long steep F6c+ "Vegas Nights" first go after putting the clips in. Massively pumped at the top and almost fell off clipping the chains!
Headed down to LPT, no one was there! Quickly realised why when I tried to on-sight Pink Pinky F7a. It was really greasy, awful conditions. I fell off the bottom but got all the moves wired for next time.
Wednesday - Rest (No skin left!)
Thursday - Pinfold with Ally. Put clips in on Through the Grapevine F7b, a direct start on a F7a I did last year. Worked out the lower steep crux, had a redpoint but hadn't worked out the first move properly. Got it 2nd go, probably the quickest I've ever done a F7b but I had done the top half last year - Psyched!
Friday - Rest
Saturday - Deadhangs - Progress on all grip types again, can now hang 3 finger open hand on the 30mm edges for 22 secs.
Did 3 sets on, 3 finger open, slopers, 4 finger half crimp, middle 2, front 2 and back 2.
Also did 4 x 30 reps of free weight shrugs with 13kg in each hand.
Sunday - Devil's Gorge - Strong scene down there with ropes up on 4 routes! Busiest I've seen it.
Steep route campaign continues and got on a mega steep F7b "Broccoli and Ice-cream". Lower crux has a hard V4-ish boulder problem to a good rest then the upper section is really steep on massive jugs, really awesome!
Lower crux felt a lot easier than when I tried it a couple of months ago. First time on top section and dogged up it doing all the moves with relative ease. Psyched for it, going to head back this week.
Did some core and more shrugs when I got home.
Great week for me, enjoying throwing myself at stuff I'm not used too!
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks mattrm! Yeah, would be could to hook at some point. I seem to spend a lot of time climbing in South Wales - Dinas, Witches, The Gap, etc.
Mixed week..............
M - Nothing
T - Went to Bourton Combe in the evening, esoterica at its best! Did the full BC traverse (F7A+) about 7 times, though the idea is to do the traverse there and back which I think goes at about f8a. Had three good goes, but completely powered out towards the end, with 6ish hard moves still to go. Need more juice i think.
W - Quick core session
T - Circuits at TCA - lots of easier stuff for some fitness. Also worked out all the moves for the 7a+ circuit and linked in about three parts.
F - Nothing
S - Went to Witches Point. Warmed up by putting the clips in the god is mine (f7b+). First redpoint, foot popped going for the last hold just above the chains!! Second redpoint, foot popped going into the second undercut near the end! Things got progressively worse after that and by the fifth redpoint I had completely lost my concentration so went for a swim instead. The sea was surprisingly warm!
S - Went to UCR with the intention of doing some 4X4 on the routes, but after two sets, sacked it off as the sweat factor was too much and felt pretty tired so just messed around on a few 7's.
This week hoping to get out to Huntsham with AJM if the weather plays ball and maybe a trip to The Gap to try mad at the sun again. Oh, and some AnCap type stuff in preperation for my trip to Kalymnos in the latter part of September.
Thanks mattrm! Yeah, would be could to hook at some point. I seem to spend a lot of time climbing in South Wales - Dinas, Witches, The Gap, etc.
Mixed week..............
M - Nothing
T - Went to Bourton Combe in the evening, esoterica at its best! Did the full BC traverse (F7A+) about 7 times, though the idea is to do the traverse there and back which I think goes at about f8a. Had three good goes, but completely powered out towards the end, with 6ish hard moves still to go. Need more juice i think.
W - Quick core session
T - Circuits at TCA - lots of easier stuff for some fitness. Also worked out all the moves for the 7a+ circuit and linked in about three parts.
F - Nothing
S - Went to Witches Point. Warmed up by putting the clips in the god is mine (f7b+). First redpoint, foot popped going for the last hold just above the chains!! Second redpoint, foot popped going into the second undercut near the end! Things got progressively worse after that and by the fifth redpoint I had completely lost my concentration so went for a swim instead. The sea was surprisingly warm!
S - Went to UCR with the intention of doing some 4X4 on the routes, but after two sets, sacked it off as the sweat factor was too much and felt pretty tired so just messed around on a few 7's.
This week hoping to get out to Huntsham with AJM if the weather plays ball and maybe a trip to The Gap to try mad at the sun again. Oh, and some AnCap type stuff in preperation for my trip to Kalymnos in the latter part of September.
In reply to mattrm: Hanging by a thread at Witches is a brillant route! Well worth getting on. Besides the start, the top bit is has very continental feel to it!
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Well done on Spring Bank, brilliant route eh?
Well done on Spring Bank, brilliant route eh?
In reply to AJM:
Sorry ! My excuse is i was busy climbing. I reckon that lets me off being lazy
> since biscuit hasn't done so and I want to nail down some Kilnsey partners to help feed my Ashes obsession
Sorry ! My excuse is i was busy climbing. I reckon that lets me off being lazy
In reply to mattrm:
STG: Keep getting on e2/e3 routes.
MTG: 17(9) e-points in July
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(29 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 0(1)
Focus: None
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. FoF. Committing to blind moves.
Mon: Core.
Tue: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
Wed: High Tor(1 e-point).
Thu: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Chee Tor(3 e-points).
Sun: Nothing.
Thanks mattrm.
Not done anything mind blowing this week but I've at least enjoyed it. Debuachery at High Tor was great, finished in the dark. Did a couple of good routes at Chee Tor on Saturday. I was planning on getting on Absent Friends but we timed out. My friend tried his first e3 (only ever having done 2 e1s), I was well impressed by his enthusiasm!
Now in the Lakes, its wet & my partner knackered his wrist yesterday falling off his bike. Rekon I'll be spending the week looking at crags I want to climb at, which is an altogether more relaxing way of spending my holiday. Thank god for rain & accident prone friends!!
STG: Keep getting on e2/e3 routes.
MTG: 17(9) e-points in July
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(29 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 0(1)
Focus: None
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. FoF. Committing to blind moves.
Mon: Core.
Tue: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
Wed: High Tor(1 e-point).
Thu: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Chee Tor(3 e-points).
Sun: Nothing.
Thanks mattrm.
Not done anything mind blowing this week but I've at least enjoyed it. Debuachery at High Tor was great, finished in the dark. Did a couple of good routes at Chee Tor on Saturday. I was planning on getting on Absent Friends but we timed out. My friend tried his first e3 (only ever having done 2 e1s), I was well impressed by his enthusiasm!
Now in the Lakes, its wet & my partner knackered his wrist yesterday falling off his bike. Rekon I'll be spending the week looking at crags I want to climb at, which is an altogether more relaxing way of spending my holiday. Thank god for rain & accident prone friends!!
In reply to leon:
Thanks, and yes, it was really good. I actually found myself enjoying it rather than getting totally gripped! Have you done Tumbleweed Connection? Supposedly the same grade as Spring Bank but so much harder I thought. I was glad not to lead the crux pitch.
Thanks, and yes, it was really good. I actually found myself enjoying it rather than getting totally gripped! Have you done Tumbleweed Connection? Supposedly the same grade as Spring Bank but so much harder I thought. I was glad not to lead the crux pitch.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt.
Running suffered a bit this week too. I read a bit about barefoot running style and thought that sounded good for my buggered knees. Gave it a go for the recommended 200m or so. Felt easy peasy so kept going. Probably did about 1.5-2k during the run. WRONG ! Legs totally broken next day. Felt like i'd done an ultra followed by a heavy weights session. Lesson learned but no running for 3 days.
Got 25 miles in with 18miles being longest run.
Climbing wise i have got the board sessions down to 4x2m on 4 min off and it felt easy again at end of the week. Need to reduce rest time again i think.
Ended up at Mijas again on Sat. Did 3 x 30m long 6c's on sight. Quite similar in style - slightly overhanging/vertical on finger pockets and crozzles. Great climbing but hurt my skin after 3 weeks of not touching rock. Then decided to have a crack at a 7b. Ended up on a 7b+ by mistake that started in a mini cave with a series of huge reaches between undercuts. Not my bag and totally fluffed it. Gave up at 3rd bolt. Had another go and same happened. Had a panic when a desperate dynamic lunge for the hold whilst in a deep drop knee nearly dislocated my right knee. Gave it another go ( why do we do stupid things like that ? ) then stopped for the day. Knee swollen but OK i think.
Bonus Sunday. Work cancelled so went back to Mijas. Very sore shoulders from yesterday. Another 6c onsight on same wall and then onto a 7a i have tried on top rope before 2ce but never completed. It's long, overhanging all the way, with long moves between good holds and a crux right at the top. Taxing to say the least but 3* all the way.Awesome rest half way up where you hang off a toe hook. Went straight for a lead go and came off at the crux after getting wrong handed on a mini tufa. Tried again and fluffed it at the crux after wasting loads of energy getting the lower sequence totally wrong about 3 times. Didn't have enough in the tank for another go and my skin was really sore. Locals say it's 7a + really but still gutted not to get it. It felt much easier than a few weeks ago on TR and I was cruising the first go. It could become my bogey route. Not much stamina at the moment but not surprising with no real climbing for 3 weeks.
What i have noticed is that my forearms are fine while climbing and after but my shoulders and biceps are what is tiring on these routes and feeling sore the day after. Need to figure something out. Considering I can't do one arm lock offs even I think I need to build some strength up in these areas.
This weeks targets:
Mrs Biscuit was taken to the airport at 4am to go to York for her interview. So on my own again this week.
BF – 68kg and current average 16.5% down to 16%. Diet Quality Score from Racing weight of 20+ per day.
Complexes x 3 with bicep curls as well.
Stretching x 3.
Weighted pull ups/lock offs x 3
P.E. Board – 3 times 2min on 3.30 rest.
Running – 30 miles. Long run 20 mile.
Climbing – DWS in Gibraltar on Saturday. Can't wait. Loads more routes done since I was last there.
Cheers Matt.
Running suffered a bit this week too. I read a bit about barefoot running style and thought that sounded good for my buggered knees. Gave it a go for the recommended 200m or so. Felt easy peasy so kept going. Probably did about 1.5-2k during the run. WRONG ! Legs totally broken next day. Felt like i'd done an ultra followed by a heavy weights session. Lesson learned but no running for 3 days.
Got 25 miles in with 18miles being longest run.
Climbing wise i have got the board sessions down to 4x2m on 4 min off and it felt easy again at end of the week. Need to reduce rest time again i think.
Ended up at Mijas again on Sat. Did 3 x 30m long 6c's on sight. Quite similar in style - slightly overhanging/vertical on finger pockets and crozzles. Great climbing but hurt my skin after 3 weeks of not touching rock. Then decided to have a crack at a 7b. Ended up on a 7b+ by mistake that started in a mini cave with a series of huge reaches between undercuts. Not my bag and totally fluffed it. Gave up at 3rd bolt. Had another go and same happened. Had a panic when a desperate dynamic lunge for the hold whilst in a deep drop knee nearly dislocated my right knee. Gave it another go ( why do we do stupid things like that ? ) then stopped for the day. Knee swollen but OK i think.
Bonus Sunday. Work cancelled so went back to Mijas. Very sore shoulders from yesterday. Another 6c onsight on same wall and then onto a 7a i have tried on top rope before 2ce but never completed. It's long, overhanging all the way, with long moves between good holds and a crux right at the top. Taxing to say the least but 3* all the way.Awesome rest half way up where you hang off a toe hook. Went straight for a lead go and came off at the crux after getting wrong handed on a mini tufa. Tried again and fluffed it at the crux after wasting loads of energy getting the lower sequence totally wrong about 3 times. Didn't have enough in the tank for another go and my skin was really sore. Locals say it's 7a + really but still gutted not to get it. It felt much easier than a few weeks ago on TR and I was cruising the first go. It could become my bogey route. Not much stamina at the moment but not surprising with no real climbing for 3 weeks.
What i have noticed is that my forearms are fine while climbing and after but my shoulders and biceps are what is tiring on these routes and feeling sore the day after. Need to figure something out. Considering I can't do one arm lock offs even I think I need to build some strength up in these areas.
This weeks targets:
Mrs Biscuit was taken to the airport at 4am to go to York for her interview. So on my own again this week.
BF – 68kg and current average 16.5% down to 16%. Diet Quality Score from Racing weight of 20+ per day.
Complexes x 3 with bicep curls as well.
Stretching x 3.
Weighted pull ups/lock offs x 3
P.E. Board – 3 times 2min on 3.30 rest.
Running – 30 miles. Long run 20 mile.
Climbing – DWS in Gibraltar on Saturday. Can't wait. Loads more routes done since I was last there.
In reply to AJM:
Good point. Not that much really but it was better than sitting in front of a computer.
> (In reply to biscuit)
>
> I think that rather depends what you did
>
> I think that rather depends what you did
Good point. Not that much really but it was better than sitting in front of a computer.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
I too have only seconded Tumbleweed Connection and led Spring Bank.
I think SB low in the grade and TC high in the grade. I enjoyed seconding TC but i think on the sharp end it would have been a different experience. The holds are always there when you need them but you only know that with hindsight
Nice one on your classic Lakes extreme tick list btw. It's shaping up nicely.
PS how did you get lost from Buttermere to Ennerdale ? You go up one side and down the other. Simple :-p
I too have only seconded Tumbleweed Connection and led Spring Bank.
I think SB low in the grade and TC high in the grade. I enjoyed seconding TC but i think on the sharp end it would have been a different experience. The holds are always there when you need them but you only know that with hindsight
Nice one on your classic Lakes extreme tick list btw. It's shaping up nicely.
PS how did you get lost from Buttermere to Ennerdale ? You go up one side and down the other. Simple :-p
In reply to mrchewy:
Cenetaph Corner will still be there when your finger is better. Brave efforts getting out anyway.
Cenetaph Corner will still be there when your finger is better. Brave efforts getting out anyway.
In reply to mattrm:
rubbish week last week... things got worse with my mum and i had a load of hassle with one of the houses we rent out. tried three sessions at malham.. first one managed to get up to the third bolt of my project, then lowered down and gave up for the session, second session average but finished badly.. got really stressed about the climb and everyhting else that's happening at the moment, yesterday's session much better.
managed to keep up the hilly bike rides and good work rate, core sessions and stretching.
having a project is sometimes helpful in terms of it giving me a focus and helps me deal with what's going on with my mum but sometimes it really adds a hell of a lot more stress and pressure... i need to be a little more in tune with what i need out of each of my climbing sessions and take into account the entire picture (events of the day/week, mood and is my head actually at the crag or worryinmg about my mum/missing my dad) rather than 'making' myself have to work at my maximum all the time.
apologies for a miserable update... but i do feel back on track after yesterday's session and hopefully the rest of life will settle for a period of time
throughout most of august i expect i'll be with my mum quite a bit and may not do updates on here (mum may be coming to stay with us whilst she has some intense treatment).. but i will keep the climbing and fitness going..as there should be plenty of windows of opportunity.. especially if the weather stays a bit cooler as it has done lately. just need to see how it all goes.
PPG
rubbish week last week... things got worse with my mum and i had a load of hassle with one of the houses we rent out. tried three sessions at malham.. first one managed to get up to the third bolt of my project, then lowered down and gave up for the session, second session average but finished badly.. got really stressed about the climb and everyhting else that's happening at the moment, yesterday's session much better.
managed to keep up the hilly bike rides and good work rate, core sessions and stretching.
having a project is sometimes helpful in terms of it giving me a focus and helps me deal with what's going on with my mum but sometimes it really adds a hell of a lot more stress and pressure... i need to be a little more in tune with what i need out of each of my climbing sessions and take into account the entire picture (events of the day/week, mood and is my head actually at the crag or worryinmg about my mum/missing my dad) rather than 'making' myself have to work at my maximum all the time.
apologies for a miserable update... but i do feel back on track after yesterday's session and hopefully the rest of life will settle for a period of time
throughout most of august i expect i'll be with my mum quite a bit and may not do updates on here (mum may be coming to stay with us whilst she has some intense treatment).. but i will keep the climbing and fitness going..as there should be plenty of windows of opportunity.. especially if the weather stays a bit cooler as it has done lately. just need to see how it all goes.
PPG
In reply to biscuit:
Yeah I agree about the gradings. Made me realise that jumping on a top end E2 5c could be a scary experience.
Getting lost, well I meant to go from Buttermere up Red Pike and High Stile Ridge then back down to Buttermere. But I somehow ended up at Ennerdale. No idea how I could get it so wrong. I got a lift back with the farmer from Gatesgarth, lucky me that he was passing. He owns pretty much all of that area up to Honister with 4,500 sheep on it. He must have thought I was a total dunce (and he'd be right!).
Yeah I agree about the gradings. Made me realise that jumping on a top end E2 5c could be a scary experience.
Getting lost, well I meant to go from Buttermere up Red Pike and High Stile Ridge then back down to Buttermere. But I somehow ended up at Ennerdale. No idea how I could get it so wrong. I got a lift back with the farmer from Gatesgarth, lucky me that he was passing. He owns pretty much all of that area up to Honister with 4,500 sheep on it. He must have thought I was a total dunce (and he'd be right!).
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Classic. We've all done it, haven't we ? I hope it's not just you and me.
My adventure ended in a VERY expensive taxi ride.
Classic. We've all done it, haven't we ? I hope it's not just you and me.
My adventure ended in a VERY expensive taxi ride.
In reply to mattrm:
Had a very mediocre week. Psyche failed and been really tired, not been sleeping well which hasn't helped and had really bad hayfever again. Not much to report. Pretty disappointed in myself but that's more of a reason to get back on it this week, right?! (having just wimped out of a lunchtime run due to lashing thunderstorm outside)
Bike commute every day
M: Bit of singletrack on way home. Not as long as I'd planned due to serious nettle attacks...
T: Quick session at the climbing barn. Around 15 V1-4s flashed but seriously sweaty.
W: nothing
T: Lunchtime run, 6km, 34mins. Slow... so hot. Core session. Tried to go climbing but it rained on the way there.
F: Almscliff. Seconded Crack of Doom (VS 4c) then led Central Climb (VS 4c). Remembered why I avoid Almscliff. Got a beating... tired, pumped, kinda threw terrible gear in all over the place too tired to place it properly... to quote my boyfriend when I topped out: "what was that?! that wasn't climbing...".
S: Popped into Wilton on the way to my parents, short of time and way way too hot. Seconded a severe, though it's a VS in the Rockfax book, certainly felt more like VS.
S: Psyche completely gone. Went for a walk on Ilkley Moor, bouldered around a bit trying to break in new shoes.
Need a serious plan for this week to kick my ass back into gear.
- 3 x runs
- 2 x core sessions
- Learn to make tape gloves
- Decent weekend of trad
- 2 evenings climbing, weather permitting.
On the plus side this week, have done tons of planning for Italy, booked the ferry, and ordered a new set of cams and some aiders. Psyche is high for that trip, just need to do some serious amount of crack climbing before we go!
Had a very mediocre week. Psyche failed and been really tired, not been sleeping well which hasn't helped and had really bad hayfever again. Not much to report. Pretty disappointed in myself but that's more of a reason to get back on it this week, right?! (having just wimped out of a lunchtime run due to lashing thunderstorm outside)
Bike commute every day
M: Bit of singletrack on way home. Not as long as I'd planned due to serious nettle attacks...
T: Quick session at the climbing barn. Around 15 V1-4s flashed but seriously sweaty.
W: nothing
T: Lunchtime run, 6km, 34mins. Slow... so hot. Core session. Tried to go climbing but it rained on the way there.
F: Almscliff. Seconded Crack of Doom (VS 4c) then led Central Climb (VS 4c). Remembered why I avoid Almscliff. Got a beating... tired, pumped, kinda threw terrible gear in all over the place too tired to place it properly... to quote my boyfriend when I topped out: "what was that?! that wasn't climbing...".
S: Popped into Wilton on the way to my parents, short of time and way way too hot. Seconded a severe, though it's a VS in the Rockfax book, certainly felt more like VS.
S: Psyche completely gone. Went for a walk on Ilkley Moor, bouldered around a bit trying to break in new shoes.
Need a serious plan for this week to kick my ass back into gear.
- 3 x runs
- 2 x core sessions
- Learn to make tape gloves
- Decent weekend of trad
- 2 evenings climbing, weather permitting.
On the plus side this week, have done tons of planning for Italy, booked the ferry, and ordered a new set of cams and some aiders. Psyche is high for that trip, just need to do some serious amount of crack climbing before we go!
In reply to biscuit:
ha ha glad it's not just me! I was expecting it to end in very expensive taxi ride too but was saved by the passing farmer (what a guy!). Hopefully my first and last time
ha ha glad it's not just me! I was expecting it to end in very expensive taxi ride too but was saved by the passing farmer (what a guy!). Hopefully my first and last time
In reply to maria85:
next time at almscliff climb over hanging groove. Barely HVS good gear good rests, little bit of polish on the first move and big holds all the way. Brilliant. Not many soft touches but definately go for that.
Great western I had an epic on but if you flew up crack of doom (as I expect you did) Then get on great western. one/two more hard moves than crack of doom.
I loved demon wall but its meant to be hard HVS apparently. Felt fine to me but I like slopers. Enough gear, Good holds and sneaky rests (one almost hands off just before the topout).
I have never got on well with VS's at cliff.
next time at almscliff climb over hanging groove. Barely HVS good gear good rests, little bit of polish on the first move and big holds all the way. Brilliant. Not many soft touches but definately go for that.
Great western I had an epic on but if you flew up crack of doom (as I expect you did) Then get on great western. one/two more hard moves than crack of doom.
I loved demon wall but its meant to be hard HVS apparently. Felt fine to me but I like slopers. Enough gear, Good holds and sneaky rests (one almost hands off just before the topout).
I have never got on well with VS's at cliff.
In reply to mattrm:
Ha, what a game climbing is. Totally psyched for trad after the weekend. I might not climb very hard, but jeez is the quality good in Pembroke. Already making plans for a longer excursion next week.
M-Nothing
T-Nothing
W- Nothing
T- Went bouldering on my own in the peak (couldn't find a sport partner) Tried Paint it Black. Did most of it, but my sore tendon and the warm conditions added to my lack of ability. Got bored, and didn't fancy getting midged at a grit crag so headed home.
F- Went to the zoo.
S- Pembroke. Warmed up on Cool for Cats and Manzoku (first trad in a long time) then got on Pleasure Dome - good fun. Had Cream Tea at Ma Weston's. Psyche faded badly in the afternoon as partners had epics on classic sea cliffs so didn't get anything else done.
S- Had to climb in 3 as one partner hurt ankle previous day. Wasn't my lead and the plan was to do the arrow (done before!) That took a long time so didn't end up getting on anything else.
Planning to go back with someone who is a little more psyched for (hard) routes and will mean I might get some action packed days in. Want to tick all of the top 50 e3's and 4's at least and try a couple of 5's.
Ha, what a game climbing is. Totally psyched for trad after the weekend. I might not climb very hard, but jeez is the quality good in Pembroke. Already making plans for a longer excursion next week.
M-Nothing
T-Nothing
W- Nothing
T- Went bouldering on my own in the peak (couldn't find a sport partner) Tried Paint it Black. Did most of it, but my sore tendon and the warm conditions added to my lack of ability. Got bored, and didn't fancy getting midged at a grit crag so headed home.
F- Went to the zoo.
S- Pembroke. Warmed up on Cool for Cats and Manzoku (first trad in a long time) then got on Pleasure Dome - good fun. Had Cream Tea at Ma Weston's. Psyche faded badly in the afternoon as partners had epics on classic sea cliffs so didn't get anything else done.
S- Had to climb in 3 as one partner hurt ankle previous day. Wasn't my lead and the plan was to do the arrow (done before!) That took a long time so didn't end up getting on anything else.
Planning to go back with someone who is a little more psyched for (hard) routes and will mean I might get some action packed days in. Want to tick all of the top 50 e3's and 4's at least and try a couple of 5's.
In reply to grubes and maria:
Overhanging Groove has one reachy move that would have not troubled you at all but it was a little bit tricky for me. Quite near the top - short arses have to put a couple of extra foot movements in to get the top break. Not much harder though.
Demon wall is alright if you know where the jug at the top is (or like slopers!). I didn't and fell off trying to top out. Everyone said I should have gone round the top first to check out where the jug is.
Overhanging Groove has one reachy move that would have not troubled you at all but it was a little bit tricky for me. Quite near the top - short arses have to put a couple of extra foot movements in to get the top break. Not much harder though.
Demon wall is alright if you know where the jug at the top is (or like slopers!). I didn't and fell off trying to top out. Everyone said I should have gone round the top first to check out where the jug is.
In reply to JimmyKay:
> F- Went to the zoo.
> S- Pembroke. Had Cream Tea at Ma Weston's.
That place is great with just a hint of league of gentleman > S- Pembroke. Had Cream Tea at Ma Weston's.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
first time I did demon wall I did not use the jug (did not know it was there) manteled on two slopers still only 5a ish maybe hard 5a
first time I did demon wall I did not use the jug (did not know it was there) manteled on two slopers still only 5a ish maybe hard 5a
In reply to grubes: Cheers, I'll have a look at it. Crack of Doom was fine on second, think I'd have been ok on lead. I think half my problem was expecting Central Climb to feel cruisy then getting pumped trying to place gear that wasn't as simple as it looked like it would be. Caused me to freak out a little and make a total hash of it.
Psyche had definitely gone this last week, very disappointing after a couple of fantastic weeks with some hard (for me) ticks. Need to get my head back as I have two big trips coming up that I want to be solid on E1 for and pushing into E2.
Psyche had definitely gone this last week, very disappointing after a couple of fantastic weeks with some hard (for me) ticks. Need to get my head back as I have two big trips coming up that I want to be solid on E1 for and pushing into E2.
In reply to Nomics4sale: Nice one on Spring Bank! You're ticking off some great routes at the moment
In reply to maria85:
not been on it but remember needkraken saying she had a nightmare seconding it. I think the day before she had seconded some HVS's and E1's
Its a route that has not appealed to me mainly because it is almscliff vs. Had a bad day on traditional climb back in 2009 and not been keen on VS's there since.
I did franklins green crack (vs) same day as overhanging groove and demon wall and had the hardest time on that.
not been on it but remember needkraken saying she had a nightmare seconding it. I think the day before she had seconded some HVS's and E1's
Its a route that has not appealed to me mainly because it is almscliff vs. Had a bad day on traditional climb back in 2009 and not been keen on VS's there since.
I did franklins green crack (vs) same day as overhanging groove and demon wall and had the hardest time on that.
In reply to JimmyKay: I'm psyched for Pembroke too, though I might not have a whole weekend free until August bank holiday.
In reply to maria85:
Thanks, yeah I've been having a great time
As grubes says Almscliffe is hard. Get off the grit, come to the lakes and get on some E1 and E2s up there! (But I suppose if you're looking for granite-esque cracks grit might be the best bet.)
Thanks, yeah I've been having a great time
As grubes says Almscliffe is hard. Get off the grit, come to the lakes and get on some E1 and E2s up there! (But I suppose if you're looking for granite-esque cracks grit might be the best bet.)
In reply to Nomics4sale: Quarried grit is a better bet! (hence why we went to Wilton, but it was just too hot to do anything and my head was all over the place due to some non-climbing-related stuff).
I am definitely more psyched for mountain stuff though and that's the only place I can see myself climbing E2 anytime soon. Fingers crossed for decent weather next weekend!
I am definitely more psyched for mountain stuff though and that's the only place I can see myself climbing E2 anytime soon. Fingers crossed for decent weather next weekend!
In reply to mattrm: That's right, make it all about you! :P Although I'm competing well in the afternoon-coffee-and-cake stakes at the moment as well...
M: Swim 30'
Tu: Castle Inn Quarry, Llysfaen. ALMOST nothing new, but sport, trad and mileage all on one crag. The only problem is the pub's not open any more:
* Route 1 5+ lead clean rpt
* Route 2 6a lead clean rpt - after some thought
* Indian Summer 6a+ lead clean rpt (seconded it before) - a fantastic route, worth anyone's money
* Mynydd Marian VS 4c lead clean onsight - yes, trad! Has a big move in the middle.
* School Mam 6a lead clean rpt
* Finale 5+ top rope as the sun set - because it was there!
W: Swim, 30'
Th: Nothing (partner cancelled cos he was tired, and I was exhausted, and packing for wild camp)
Fr: Wild camp, 3mi walk into Black Ladders, Carnedd Dafydd from Bethesda along Afon Llafar
Sa: Crib Lem Spur (I), Carnedd Daffydd, followed by 12mi walk to (basically) Conwy!
* The first half of the day was fun, even ticked off the path up Carnedd Llewellyn without really noticing it (the secret: a pace slow enough to talk about anything else!)
* Sea fog came in, so practiced pacing navigation
* last 4 miles through dry peat beds, cotton grass, spiky gorse and boggy upland rushes with a 1:50,000 map without any detail: exhausting.
Su: Rest(!)
M: Swim 30'
Tu: Castle Inn Quarry, Llysfaen. ALMOST nothing new, but sport, trad and mileage all on one crag. The only problem is the pub's not open any more:
* Route 1 5+ lead clean rpt
* Route 2 6a lead clean rpt - after some thought
* Indian Summer 6a+ lead clean rpt (seconded it before) - a fantastic route, worth anyone's money
* Mynydd Marian VS 4c lead clean onsight - yes, trad! Has a big move in the middle.
* School Mam 6a lead clean rpt
* Finale 5+ top rope as the sun set - because it was there!
W: Swim, 30'
Th: Nothing (partner cancelled cos he was tired, and I was exhausted, and packing for wild camp)
Fr: Wild camp, 3mi walk into Black Ladders, Carnedd Dafydd from Bethesda along Afon Llafar
Sa: Crib Lem Spur (I), Carnedd Daffydd, followed by 12mi walk to (basically) Conwy!
* The first half of the day was fun, even ticked off the path up Carnedd Llewellyn without really noticing it (the secret: a pace slow enough to talk about anything else!)
* Sea fog came in, so practiced pacing navigation
* last 4 miles through dry peat beds, cotton grass, spiky gorse and boggy upland rushes with a 1:50,000 map without any detail: exhausting.
Su: Rest(!)
In reply to Nomics4sale:
no not tried it.
in terms of getting lost, i once went up bowfell the day before new years eve. got lost. ended-up meeting someone else lost with a one man tent, also lost. darkness fell & we kept hitting really steep crags. ended-up sleeping in hist tent dripping wet & freezing until 8am the next morning (didn't sleep a wink i was so cold). woke-up to three foot of snow. walked for an hour, found foot prints, ended-up back at where we had camped the night before (our footprints!)..... ended-up decending into the valley you use to get up to great end!!! getting lost is so much more fun than knowing where you are going!!
no not tried it.
in terms of getting lost, i once went up bowfell the day before new years eve. got lost. ended-up meeting someone else lost with a one man tent, also lost. darkness fell & we kept hitting really steep crags. ended-up sleeping in hist tent dripping wet & freezing until 8am the next morning (didn't sleep a wink i was so cold). woke-up to three foot of snow. walked for an hour, found foot prints, ended-up back at where we had camped the night before (our footprints!)..... ended-up decending into the valley you use to get up to great end!!! getting lost is so much more fun than knowing where you are going!!
In reply to IainRUK:
Yes, had to miss it, gutted (it is such a great event) but I couldn't walk very well, definitely couldn't run. It is still not right yet, but slowly improving I think. Terrible timing. I want to get back to the physio but can't get this week
> (In reply to NMN) Did you miss snowdon then? Can't see any mention in the last weeks either?
Yes, had to miss it, gutted (it is such a great event) but I couldn't walk very well, definitely couldn't run. It is still not right yet, but slowly improving I think. Terrible timing. I want to get back to the physio but can't get this week
In reply to pork pie girl: Malham will always be there - sometimes life throws you a bag of crap and you need to take some time out to deal with it - don't feel bad about doing that, you have more important things to concentrate on. Exercise however you need to to help you keep relaxed and on top of things x
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:
Guys! Take the tick! Everytime I do something and go 'it's not blah' you go, take the tick and move on. If it says E6, that means at one point someone thought it was E6, so go 'I did an E6'.
> (In reply to mattrm) Cheers, but like AJM says, it's not really E6. We talked it over this weekend, and decided it'd get 5.12c, no R, no X, just 5.12c - does tat make sense?
>
>
Guys! Take the tick! Everytime I do something and go 'it's not blah' you go, take the tick and move on. If it says E6, that means at one point someone thought it was E6, so go 'I did an E6'.
In reply to pork pie girl:
Chin up. I'm sure it'll come together. It might be a good thing to take a week off from the stress of it. You'll come back fresh and less stressed. Hope your Mum is ok.
Chin up. I'm sure it'll come together. It might be a good thing to take a week off from the stress of it. You'll come back fresh and less stressed. Hope your Mum is ok.
In reply to Nomics4sale: Still a bit sore but hey - no time to be injured!
In reply to biscuit: Aye it will, that Corner can be tried anytime. Actually way more psyched to try the E3 in the quarries now, which might sound daft but I reckon I've just as much chance of doing this year.
Enjoy the DWS!
Enjoy the DWS!
In reply to pork pie girl: What Ali said - you obviously need exercise in your life, just as you need to spend time with your mum but that climb will be waiting for you when your ready to focus fully on it again. Just sorry to hear it's a bit of a struggle at the moment.
In reply to mattrm: I'm back off my holiday's (booo) feeling fat and weak so time to get back on it properly
STG (next 4 weeks): get back into regular training, get over recent confidence issues, have a healthy month, mileage
MTG (before winter): 6a bouldering regularly, keep leading trad (been over a month now so back to VDiff's) get on some sport and train hard when indoors
LTG (over next 6/9 months): get to know my technique and style, push through to HS trad, try and boulder 6b get on some sport
week before last-
M - band
T - coaching session, really good session have lots of things to work on
W - hurt from day before, was lazy =(
T - packing
F - flew off to holland
S/S - sat around drinking with pirate friends
last week-
M - beach + drinking
T/W - generally hanging out with friends
T - flew back to UK, little walk with mum
F - longer walk with mum, then drank a lot of cider at a folk gig undoing all the work from the walk xD
S - travelled to eastbourne, night out with the band
S - 2 gigs on eastbourne bandstand
Basically another 2 weeks off so really got to get back to training now =)
STG (next 4 weeks): get back into regular training, get over recent confidence issues, have a healthy month, mileage
MTG (before winter): 6a bouldering regularly, keep leading trad (been over a month now so back to VDiff's) get on some sport and train hard when indoors
LTG (over next 6/9 months): get to know my technique and style, push through to HS trad, try and boulder 6b get on some sport
week before last-
M - band
T - coaching session, really good session have lots of things to work on
W - hurt from day before, was lazy =(
T - packing
F - flew off to holland
S/S - sat around drinking with pirate friends
last week-
M - beach + drinking
T/W - generally hanging out with friends
T - flew back to UK, little walk with mum
F - longer walk with mum, then drank a lot of cider at a folk gig undoing all the work from the walk xD
S - travelled to eastbourne, night out with the band
S - 2 gigs on eastbourne bandstand
Basically another 2 weeks off so really got to get back to training now =)
In reply to mattrm: Hey guys, this is my first post on Fit Club, although I've been meaning to join for a while now.
Current stats;
Trad E2, sport 6c, boulder 7A. (Indoor: Sport 7b, boulder 7B)
Short/mid term goals: Trad E3, sport 7b (indoor 7c), boulder 7B.
Long term goals: Trad E5, sport 8a, boulder 8A.
Project wise, I've started finger strength training with the intent of doing Jerry's Traverse at Cratcliffe in a month or so. I haven't tried it yet, but from what I've seen the moves look pretty straight forward (just requiring strong fingers and arms). So it appears to be a good 7B to specifically train for (and maybe flash :].)
My 2013 running aims are;
Sub 18min 5k (PB 18:56)
Sub 40min 10k (CHECK PB 39:40)
Current stats;
Trad E2, sport 6c, boulder 7A. (Indoor: Sport 7b, boulder 7B)
Short/mid term goals: Trad E3, sport 7b (indoor 7c), boulder 7B.
Long term goals: Trad E5, sport 8a, boulder 8A.
Project wise, I've started finger strength training with the intent of doing Jerry's Traverse at Cratcliffe in a month or so. I haven't tried it yet, but from what I've seen the moves look pretty straight forward (just requiring strong fingers and arms). So it appears to be a good 7B to specifically train for (and maybe flash :].)
My 2013 running aims are;
Sub 18min 5k (PB 18:56)
Sub 40min 10k (CHECK PB 39:40)
In reply to mattrm:
Running a bit late this week but not much to report from last week anyway!
Stg: e1
Weight 12st 7 (13st 1)
Mtg
E2/3
10 chin ups (4)
M nil
T in
W Pilates and press ups before work
T Pilates and press ups before work, chin up app work out in the eve
F 25 min jog followed by hot yoga class. This was amazing! Going into a hot yoga class already hot made it even more effective even if I was quite nauseous & faint towards the end
S felt great from hot yoga but too many chores left no time and drove to dales in eve
S 3hr mtb ride around aysgarth and askrigg. Never been here before really nice place and hardly any one else in the hills.
Still no climbing, everyone seems to have gone away, so only got 1.5 weeks left to get a bit in before going to ariege!
Better just keep getting lighter!
Running a bit late this week but not much to report from last week anyway!
Stg: e1
Weight 12st 7 (13st 1)
Mtg
E2/3
10 chin ups (4)
M nil
T in
W Pilates and press ups before work
T Pilates and press ups before work, chin up app work out in the eve
F 25 min jog followed by hot yoga class. This was amazing! Going into a hot yoga class already hot made it even more effective even if I was quite nauseous & faint towards the end
S felt great from hot yoga but too many chores left no time and drove to dales in eve
S 3hr mtb ride around aysgarth and askrigg. Never been here before really nice place and hardly any one else in the hills.
Still no climbing, everyone seems to have gone away, so only got 1.5 weeks left to get a bit in before going to ariege!
Better just keep getting lighter!
In reply to NMN:
Bad one.. hope it sorts itself out for the Ben.. don't rush it though, ankles can become long term issues if you get back too soon..
> (In reply to IainRUK)
> [...]
>
> Yes, had to miss it, gutted (it is such a great event) but I couldn't walk very well, definitely couldn't run. It is still not right yet, but slowly improving I think. Terrible timing. I want to get back to the physio but can't get this week
> [...]
>
> Yes, had to miss it, gutted (it is such a great event) but I couldn't walk very well, definitely couldn't run. It is still not right yet, but slowly improving I think. Terrible timing. I want to get back to the physio but can't get this week
Bad one.. hope it sorts itself out for the Ben.. don't rush it though, ankles can become long term issues if you get back too soon..
In reply to leon:
Wow sounds like a proper navigation nightmare!
We didn't really get lost, I seem to have inherited my father's sixth-sense when navigating. It was just a bit soul-destroying/longer than I'd thought from Drum to the Sychnant Pass parking spot. 15 miles, 1400m ascent, with humidity that could almost make you drip standing still, hence the slow(er) pace.
Note to self: check walking routes properly for mileage before committing ("We'll walk over the Carneddau then just finish up over this flat bit for 4 miles here"). Glad I'll be learning all this on the ML course next week!
>
> in terms of getting lost...
> in terms of getting lost...
Wow sounds like a proper navigation nightmare!
We didn't really get lost, I seem to have inherited my father's sixth-sense when navigating. It was just a bit soul-destroying/longer than I'd thought from Drum to the Sychnant Pass parking spot. 15 miles, 1400m ascent, with humidity that could almost make you drip standing still, hence the slow(er) pace.
Note to self: check walking routes properly for mileage before committing ("We'll walk over the Carneddau then just finish up over this flat bit for 4 miles here"). Glad I'll be learning all this on the ML course next week!
In reply to NMN:
Oh no! What a complete downer. Hope it gets better soon.
> (In reply to IainRUK)
> [...]
>
> Yes, had to miss it, gutted (it is such a great event)...
> [...]
>
> Yes, had to miss it, gutted (it is such a great event)...
Oh no! What a complete downer. Hope it gets better soon.
In reply to mattrm:
I did "E Six, Six B" In Bullslaughter Bay: can I say "I did an E6" too?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=64805
> (In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber)
> [...]
>
> Guys! Take the tick! Everytime I do something and go 'it's not blah' you go, take the tick and move on. If it says E6, that means at one point someone thought it was E6, so go 'I did an E6'.
> [...]
>
> Guys! Take the tick! Everytime I do something and go 'it's not blah' you go, take the tick and move on. If it says E6, that means at one point someone thought it was E6, so go 'I did an E6'.
I did "E Six, Six B" In Bullslaughter Bay: can I say "I did an E6" too?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=64805
In reply to Nathaniel Gjöderum-Larsson:
Hi Nathaniel (Nathan? Nat?).
Looks like you're just ahead of me, so I'll be keeping an eye on you!
Hi Nathaniel (Nathan? Nat?).
Looks like you're just ahead of me, so I'll be keeping an eye on you!
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks,
A late post from me, works been busy etc excuses excuses...
Indoors very little, no other training. Did get to High tor for the first time however (with the new long ropes) for a day at the weekend.
Warmed up on debauchery (in one pitch) which was calve busting but a great intro to the crag and despite the polish/chalk etc, route finding wasn't quite as easy as I rather casually thought before starting off.
Then tried Darius, in one, F* me! I thought I was doing good with E2s - ran out of extenders as well just for pumped excitement at the end. The old bolt took another swing suffice to say. I seem to recall Si DH onsighted it? Top kudos if so. Good to fall onto trad type gear for once though. Seconded a couple of HVS's too. Good day in all.
So, beside Darius taking my scalp, What's the better E3's to try out there please? Quite psyched to go back, just don't want to get on an E3 to find its E4 whilst I'm still working at maintaining confidence at E3.
Goals wise, 10 days time I'm going to Hoy. And September Lundy, so trad trad trad. But I'd also like to get the sport going again. With work being busy, maintaining the status quo will be primary goal.
Cheers, before I ramble anymore.
Kev.
Thanks,
A late post from me, works been busy etc excuses excuses...
Indoors very little, no other training. Did get to High tor for the first time however (with the new long ropes) for a day at the weekend.
Warmed up on debauchery (in one pitch) which was calve busting but a great intro to the crag and despite the polish/chalk etc, route finding wasn't quite as easy as I rather casually thought before starting off.
Then tried Darius, in one, F* me! I thought I was doing good with E2s - ran out of extenders as well just for pumped excitement at the end. The old bolt took another swing suffice to say. I seem to recall Si DH onsighted it? Top kudos if so. Good to fall onto trad type gear for once though. Seconded a couple of HVS's too. Good day in all.
So, beside Darius taking my scalp, What's the better E3's to try out there please? Quite psyched to go back, just don't want to get on an E3 to find its E4 whilst I'm still working at maintaining confidence at E3.
Goals wise, 10 days time I'm going to Hoy. And September Lundy, so trad trad trad. But I'd also like to get the sport going again. With work being busy, maintaining the status quo will be primary goal.
Cheers, before I ramble anymore.
Kev.
In reply to Kevster:
Do you mean at High Tor in particular Kev? I've got very limited experience but Robert Brown was ok, nice climbing, crux itself ok protected but then a bit of a committing runout before you get to the next piece.
If you didn't, then Reecastle is a good place for clocking in E2-3 miles - there's Finger Flake Finish and Rack Direct at E2 and 3 E3s of which the two I've done, Thumbscrew and Guillotine, are both good. Seem to remember good gear on both although a bit fiddly (steep position) to get in on Thumbscrew. The other one looks well protected but steep. In the same area you've also got Prana which has bombproof gear with hard moves just above it (feet by runners?).
Alternatively there's Sharpnose which is steep but on positive holds, rewards a bit of fitness.
Do you mean at High Tor in particular Kev? I've got very limited experience but Robert Brown was ok, nice climbing, crux itself ok protected but then a bit of a committing runout before you get to the next piece.
If you didn't, then Reecastle is a good place for clocking in E2-3 miles - there's Finger Flake Finish and Rack Direct at E2 and 3 E3s of which the two I've done, Thumbscrew and Guillotine, are both good. Seem to remember good gear on both although a bit fiddly (steep position) to get in on Thumbscrew. The other one looks well protected but steep. In the same area you've also got Prana which has bombproof gear with hard moves just above it (feet by runners?).
Alternatively there's Sharpnose which is steep but on positive holds, rewards a bit of fitness.
In reply to mattrm: Bit of a slow week after the holiday, but did get a day of sport in on Sunday
M:
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: Few easy routes at Stanage
S: Working Sideshow at Kilnsey
STG: More 7a's (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): One more done: this years RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (3)
MTG: 7a+ Appetite/Direct Flight/Gilbert Cardigan (order of difficulty)
LTG: 7b (WYSWIG?)
M:
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: Few easy routes at Stanage
S: Working Sideshow at Kilnsey
STG: More 7a's (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): One more done: this years RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (3)
MTG: 7a+ Appetite/Direct Flight/Gilbert Cardigan (order of difficulty)
LTG: 7b (WYSWIG?)
In reply to AJM:
Cheers AJM,
I intended high tor specific routes. Reecastle, I don't recognise. I shall have to look it up! Always open to new crags.
Robert brown, I'll have to look it up in the book, one of the ones which goes under the over hang? Just looked it up, face by Darius.~
I think what I'm after is recommended routes which allow access to E3/4 at high tor without being stupid about choices. Actually, Jake may have done a few ideas a number of FCs ago. The ab down from the tree at debauchery goes through some funky places too. Inspiring.
Cheers AJM,
I intended high tor specific routes. Reecastle, I don't recognise. I shall have to look it up! Always open to new crags.
Robert brown, I'll have to look it up in the book, one of the ones which goes under the over hang? Just looked it up, face by Darius.~
I think what I'm after is recommended routes which allow access to E3/4 at high tor without being stupid about choices. Actually, Jake may have done a few ideas a number of FCs ago. The ab down from the tree at debauchery goes through some funky places too. Inspiring.
In reply to mattrm:
I didnt onsight it im afraid, I did it last year but had been on it and fallen off right at the top in 2010. Good route eh?!
Robert brown is ok at e3 as andy said, much less ustained nd physical than darius but a bit and quite committing through the crux, dont get off route.
Perseus jut next to darius is ok too, long - 1 pitch, but again less sustained and physical, but more technical and occasionally run out.
Lyme Cryme is harder. Scary and pumpy.
I agree routes around the big cave look great - want to.do Nightmare of Brown Donkeys. Laurin is supposed to be desperate.
I didnt onsight it im afraid, I did it last year but had been on it and fallen off right at the top in 2010. Good route eh?!
Robert brown is ok at e3 as andy said, much less ustained nd physical than darius but a bit and quite committing through the crux, dont get off route.
Perseus jut next to darius is ok too, long - 1 pitch, but again less sustained and physical, but more technical and occasionally run out.
Lyme Cryme is harder. Scary and pumpy.
I agree routes around the big cave look great - want to.do Nightmare of Brown Donkeys. Laurin is supposed to be desperate.
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