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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (332) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=558101
Stats for the week:
Nick Russell - New Horizons sounds good, well done.
Si dH - Good effort on the E4 and 7c.
stevemarkperry - Solid bike mileage there.
IainRUK - Excellent training as always.
mbh - Good miles and cross training. I reckon you'd crush a BGR btw.
Ali - Mountain routes sound ace. Well done on the 7a.
Eagle River - Nice to hear you did 50 over 5. Hope you get the Ashes soon as well.
mrchewey - Don't put yourself down about the VS onsights, it's good progress. Good week if you ask me. Hope the finger is better soon.
AJM - Sounds like a great week.
NMN - Ankle better I hope?
annak - No worries. Welcome back. Looks like a good week.
grubes - Any knee improvment? Flying Arete looks very nice.
Nomics4sale - E2 onsight! Nice.
Chestwig - Good week there.
Luke Owens - Happy Birthday. Always good to try hard stuff.
Garrouli - Lots of good sessions there.
leon - Enjoyed the lakes? Good haul of e-points.
biscuit - Hope the knee is better. Well done on getting the running miles in.
pork pie girl - Hope it gets better for you. I'm sure it'll go soon.
maria85 - The heat and hayfever can do things in. Hope you're feeling better.
JimmyKay - Pembroke is awesome. What is Manzuko like?
useful - Wild camp sounds nice. Sounds like some good sessions.
Needkraken - Get back on it!
Nathaniel - Welcome. Some great goals there.
DanH9883 - The core stuff is all good training.
Kevster - Hoy and Lundy sound awesome. Good to see you trying on the E2s.
Sankey - Stanage and Kilnsey in a weekend? Sounds good to me.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (332) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=558101
Stats for the week:
Nick Russell - New Horizons sounds good, well done.
Si dH - Good effort on the E4 and 7c.
stevemarkperry - Solid bike mileage there.
IainRUK - Excellent training as always.
mbh - Good miles and cross training. I reckon you'd crush a BGR btw.
Ali - Mountain routes sound ace. Well done on the 7a.
Eagle River - Nice to hear you did 50 over 5. Hope you get the Ashes soon as well.
mrchewey - Don't put yourself down about the VS onsights, it's good progress. Good week if you ask me. Hope the finger is better soon.
AJM - Sounds like a great week.
NMN - Ankle better I hope?
annak - No worries. Welcome back. Looks like a good week.
grubes - Any knee improvment? Flying Arete looks very nice.
Nomics4sale - E2 onsight! Nice.
Chestwig - Good week there.
Luke Owens - Happy Birthday. Always good to try hard stuff.
Garrouli - Lots of good sessions there.
leon - Enjoyed the lakes? Good haul of e-points.
biscuit - Hope the knee is better. Well done on getting the running miles in.
pork pie girl - Hope it gets better for you. I'm sure it'll go soon.
maria85 - The heat and hayfever can do things in. Hope you're feeling better.
JimmyKay - Pembroke is awesome. What is Manzuko like?
useful - Wild camp sounds nice. Sounds like some good sessions.
Needkraken - Get back on it!
Nathaniel - Welcome. Some great goals there.
DanH9883 - The core stuff is all good training.
Kevster - Hoy and Lundy sound awesome. Good to see you trying on the E2s.
Sankey - Stanage and Kilnsey in a weekend? Sounds good to me.
In reply to mattrm:
Manzoku doesn't have a bad hold or poor gear placement on it. It's a steep-ish enjoyable wall. It must be a great first E1 for anyone pushing their grade.
Manzoku doesn't have a bad hold or poor gear placement on it. It's a steep-ish enjoyable wall. It must be a great first E1 for anyone pushing their grade.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt. Not gong to report anything this week as not much really happened - had a poor wall session on Monday and was going to go to try Cry of Despair again Wednesday, but it wetted out after last weekend's rain.
More motivated for house DIY than training at the moment so probably won't post for a few weeks. Have a few days away climbing with AJM though the week after this one coming, so should get lots done then, weather-permitting. When I get back after that I'll see how I feel and maybe start training again!
Cheers
Cheers Matt. Not gong to report anything this week as not much really happened - had a poor wall session on Monday and was going to go to try Cry of Despair again Wednesday, but it wetted out after last weekend's rain.
More motivated for house DIY than training at the moment so probably won't post for a few weeks. Have a few days away climbing with AJM though the week after this one coming, so should get lots done then, weather-permitting. When I get back after that I'll see how I feel and maybe start training again!
Cheers
In reply to mattrm: Thanks Matt! New Horizons is good, but Them is even better (and not currently banned)
This has been a good week for me, nothing groundbreaking but some definite small milestones. Climbing-wise I did Kangaroo Wall (E2 5c,6a,5a,5b) at Wintour's Leap yesterday, onsighting the 6a pitch without too much difficulty. It's not quite my goal of E3 6a onsight, but it's definite progress: somehow having a 6a pitch under my belt (albeit at a lower adjectival grade) makes the prospect a lot less daunting.
I've also felt able to push the running mileage a bit: I did over 30km this week for the first time since May (when the shins started playing up) and this morning I did my longest training run of the year at 12 miles. It's not a lot compared to some others on here (I really don't know how some of you do it!), but for me it's good going. Hopefully I can continue on this trajectory up to the marathon in October.
M: Swimming and fingerboard.
T: Climbing in Avon: Pink Wall Direct (E2). Great fun climbing up the quarry spikes!
W: 7 mile run, core session.
T: Rest (hadn't had one of these for a while)
F: Climbing in Avon: Lich Gates (E2).
S: Climbing at Wintour's Leap: Cheetah (HVS, very soggy at the bottom, excellent second pitch) and Kangaroo Wall (E2, the first time I've managed to onsight a 6a pitch!).
S: 12 mile run.
Short term plan (~1 month)
Focus on running (i.e. don't skip a training run in favour of climbing).
At least maintain climbing level by getting out locally and regular fingerboard and core sessions.
Medium term goals (end of 2013)
Running: Snowdonia marathon in October
Trad: Onsight E3 6a, become solid at E3 on more rock types/climbing styles. Get on more E4s (some a bit higher in the grade)
Sport: Lots of 7a/+ sport climbing (maybe sneaking in an onsight at this level). Redpoint 7b
Longer term goals (probably not this season)
Sport: Paradise Lost, Cheddar
Trad: The Axe, Cloggy
Running: More endurance events, try some fell running
This has been a good week for me, nothing groundbreaking but some definite small milestones. Climbing-wise I did Kangaroo Wall (E2 5c,6a,5a,5b) at Wintour's Leap yesterday, onsighting the 6a pitch without too much difficulty. It's not quite my goal of E3 6a onsight, but it's definite progress: somehow having a 6a pitch under my belt (albeit at a lower adjectival grade) makes the prospect a lot less daunting.
I've also felt able to push the running mileage a bit: I did over 30km this week for the first time since May (when the shins started playing up) and this morning I did my longest training run of the year at 12 miles. It's not a lot compared to some others on here (I really don't know how some of you do it!), but for me it's good going. Hopefully I can continue on this trajectory up to the marathon in October.
M: Swimming and fingerboard.
T: Climbing in Avon: Pink Wall Direct (E2). Great fun climbing up the quarry spikes!
W: 7 mile run, core session.
T: Rest (hadn't had one of these for a while)
F: Climbing in Avon: Lich Gates (E2).
S: Climbing at Wintour's Leap: Cheetah (HVS, very soggy at the bottom, excellent second pitch) and Kangaroo Wall (E2, the first time I've managed to onsight a 6a pitch!).
S: 12 mile run.
Short term plan (~1 month)
Focus on running (i.e. don't skip a training run in favour of climbing).
At least maintain climbing level by getting out locally and regular fingerboard and core sessions.
Medium term goals (end of 2013)
Running: Snowdonia marathon in October
Trad: Onsight E3 6a, become solid at E3 on more rock types/climbing styles. Get on more E4s (some a bit higher in the grade)
Sport: Lots of 7a/+ sport climbing (maybe sneaking in an onsight at this level). Redpoint 7b
Longer term goals (probably not this season)
Sport: Paradise Lost, Cheddar
Trad: The Axe, Cloggy
Running: More endurance events, try some fell running
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers, Matt. We will see about the BGR, this week I hope. I am going to drive up tomorrow, have a look at the first leg and up to Clough Head of the second leg on Tuesday, then try to do it Wednesday, clockwise, starting midnight. I really don't know how far I will get. The weather looks best for Tuesday in fact, but I reckon the chances of my getting lost in the dark on the first leg without a recce are very high.
It could be a bit keystone cops, but I might just do it. We'll see. At least I'll give it a shot. The main thing is to avoid involving anyone else in getting me out of a pickle. It all seems a bit surreal at the moment. I am going for chard and coconut soup at the stops, among other things. The allotment demands no less.
This week, I have just churned out miles
M - am 10.1 miles run, Breton coast path. Very nice. pm 5 mile hike
T - 46 miles cycle at tootle pace, with heavy packs.
W - nothing.
T- am 10.2 miles run road/trail, pm 4.8 miles run trail
F - 15 miles run, road, bit of footpath.
S - 10 miles run, road, 1.6 km swimming
S - 10.1 miles run, road
60 miles running, 1330 m ascent, 46 miles cycling, 1.6 km swimming.
1900 miles running with 39.7 km ascent in the last year.
I really feel a lot stronger than I did a year ago, when every run hurt, mainly in the cheeks (lower). Now I can do 10 mile runs, day after day without pain.
Cheers, Matt. We will see about the BGR, this week I hope. I am going to drive up tomorrow, have a look at the first leg and up to Clough Head of the second leg on Tuesday, then try to do it Wednesday, clockwise, starting midnight. I really don't know how far I will get. The weather looks best for Tuesday in fact, but I reckon the chances of my getting lost in the dark on the first leg without a recce are very high.
It could be a bit keystone cops, but I might just do it. We'll see. At least I'll give it a shot. The main thing is to avoid involving anyone else in getting me out of a pickle. It all seems a bit surreal at the moment. I am going for chard and coconut soup at the stops, among other things. The allotment demands no less.
This week, I have just churned out miles
M - am 10.1 miles run, Breton coast path. Very nice. pm 5 mile hike
T - 46 miles cycle at tootle pace, with heavy packs.
W - nothing.
T- am 10.2 miles run road/trail, pm 4.8 miles run trail
F - 15 miles run, road, bit of footpath.
S - 10 miles run, road, 1.6 km swimming
S - 10.1 miles run, road
60 miles running, 1330 m ascent, 46 miles cycling, 1.6 km swimming.
1900 miles running with 39.7 km ascent in the last year.
I really feel a lot stronger than I did a year ago, when every run hurt, mainly in the cheeks (lower). Now I can do 10 mile runs, day after day without pain.
In reply to mattrm:
I know I was only supposed to be doing the posts for July, but I'm happy to keep on going. However I've got an ultra lined up for the August Bank Hol weekend and then I'm away in Scotland for three weekends in September.
So Can anyone do the Aug BH and all of September?
I could then do Oct/Nov/Dec. It takes about an hour or so to do at most.
I know I was only supposed to be doing the posts for July, but I'm happy to keep on going. However I've got an ultra lined up for the August Bank Hol weekend and then I'm away in Scotland for three weekends in September.
So Can anyone do the Aug BH and all of September?
I could then do Oct/Nov/Dec. It takes about an hour or so to do at most.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt.
M: Rock clearance work at Avon. Mainly standing round in the rain watching Martin dropping loose blocks.
T: Huntsham with Garrouli. Got the last moves sorted on Ames Low. Not as horizontal as I'd feared. Just required some commitment, always easier with company. Managed 1-9 about 2-3 times, and 5-13 and 5-14. The latter was my big trigger link, the one where you know its just a matter of time, because it goes through the hardest move all the way through to the end. Good session.
W: Rest
T: Huntsham. Showing some friends around. Did some easy boulders. Got back on Ames Low. 5 redpoints I think - 2 x 1-9, 1x 1-11 (foot popped), 2x 1-12 (both including doing the setup for move 13 and going for it, the last hard move). On my last go I actually had the hold for a fraction of a second but couldn't quite hold it! Should go next time I think - I'm grinding it down slowly!
F: Cheddar with Garrouli. Got on Right Hand Man. Found a better sequence again! I've spent so long on this route, but there are so many options that I keep finding ways to tweak it. This one was a good one though, adding in a move but swapping a low percentage slap for some far steadier climbing.
Linked up to this new sequence on lead again which equals my best effort. Did the crux move (which is in the lead link above) more times than ever before whilst dogging it. If I can do one more move with this new improved sequence, which I reckon I can now Ive got that sequence engrained, I can then get the next (3rd) clip in and get to the point where only one hard super high rockover separates me from easier climbing. Linked from by clip 3 to the top on toprope whilst warming up and on lead to retrieve draws.
So to summarise that paragraph of waffle, its not going to take much more before I've done a link through all but one of the hard moves and in doing so linked the route in two halves. And the top half is one reasonably hard move and then holding it together up a few bolts of the sort of climbing you might find on a short (catwalk length) 7a/+ or something (wild guesstimating!).
S: Devon. Magical mystery tour, left to right, blue grotto to great cave. Superb 6a+ or so adventure above the sea with 2 good mates, bridging across caves, dangling on jugs, chilling on ledges, short swim to pass the green grotto - I'd done most of it before in the other direction but on a low spring tide so took a pretty different lower line. Expected to have fun but expectations exceeded. Sat chilling on the ledge in the great cave for a while, watched the team on moonraker wondering how big their epic was going to be, and then decided it was a bit chilly out of the sun and that a retreat towards ice cream was in order.
S: Wet. Got rained on at Chudleigh. Came home. Felt beasted after the previous 3 days anyway!
Another week of good progress this week. It feels like a window might be starting to open on some of my local projects. I don't know what next week will bring - I might be up at Kilnsey back on the Ashes - and the week after I'm meant to be off adventuring with Si dH. I just hope the window stays open long enough!
Cheers Matt.
M: Rock clearance work at Avon. Mainly standing round in the rain watching Martin dropping loose blocks.
T: Huntsham with Garrouli. Got the last moves sorted on Ames Low. Not as horizontal as I'd feared. Just required some commitment, always easier with company. Managed 1-9 about 2-3 times, and 5-13 and 5-14. The latter was my big trigger link, the one where you know its just a matter of time, because it goes through the hardest move all the way through to the end. Good session.
W: Rest
T: Huntsham. Showing some friends around. Did some easy boulders. Got back on Ames Low. 5 redpoints I think - 2 x 1-9, 1x 1-11 (foot popped), 2x 1-12 (both including doing the setup for move 13 and going for it, the last hard move). On my last go I actually had the hold for a fraction of a second but couldn't quite hold it! Should go next time I think - I'm grinding it down slowly!
F: Cheddar with Garrouli. Got on Right Hand Man. Found a better sequence again! I've spent so long on this route, but there are so many options that I keep finding ways to tweak it. This one was a good one though, adding in a move but swapping a low percentage slap for some far steadier climbing.
Linked up to this new sequence on lead again which equals my best effort. Did the crux move (which is in the lead link above) more times than ever before whilst dogging it. If I can do one more move with this new improved sequence, which I reckon I can now Ive got that sequence engrained, I can then get the next (3rd) clip in and get to the point where only one hard super high rockover separates me from easier climbing. Linked from by clip 3 to the top on toprope whilst warming up and on lead to retrieve draws.
So to summarise that paragraph of waffle, its not going to take much more before I've done a link through all but one of the hard moves and in doing so linked the route in two halves. And the top half is one reasonably hard move and then holding it together up a few bolts of the sort of climbing you might find on a short (catwalk length) 7a/+ or something (wild guesstimating!).
S: Devon. Magical mystery tour, left to right, blue grotto to great cave. Superb 6a+ or so adventure above the sea with 2 good mates, bridging across caves, dangling on jugs, chilling on ledges, short swim to pass the green grotto - I'd done most of it before in the other direction but on a low spring tide so took a pretty different lower line. Expected to have fun but expectations exceeded. Sat chilling on the ledge in the great cave for a while, watched the team on moonraker wondering how big their epic was going to be, and then decided it was a bit chilly out of the sun and that a retreat towards ice cream was in order.
S: Wet. Got rained on at Chudleigh. Came home. Felt beasted after the previous 3 days anyway!
Another week of good progress this week. It feels like a window might be starting to open on some of my local projects. I don't know what next week will bring - I might be up at Kilnsey back on the Ashes - and the week after I'm meant to be off adventuring with Si dH. I just hope the window stays open long enough!
In reply to mbh:
Good luck.
I like the way you are just getting on with it and having a go.
> (In reply to mattrm)
>
>We will see about the BGR, this week I hope.>
Good luck.
I like the way you are just getting on with it and having a go.
In reply to mattrm: Thanks =) I'm getting back on it now, or at least trying too. I'm trying to watch my diet slightly this month to help get onto it
STG (next 4 weeks): get back into regular training, get over recent confidence issues, have a healthy month, mileage
MTG (before winter): 6a bouldering regularly, keep leading trad (been over a month now so back to VDiff's) get on some sport and train hard when indoors, get in shape for font!
LTG (over next 6/9 months): get to know my technique and style, push through to HS trad, try and boulder 6b get on some sport
M: Got back of holiday late
T: Complete zombie, just about managed to stay awake after work to eat
W: Rokt session, climbed ok but everything felt hard...plus noticed I have a hole in my shoes =(
T/F: rehearsals and laziness
S: quick holmfirth session, am still struggling outdoors with trusting anything I used too, keep on at it I guess to get through this problem
S: depot session, the BMC comp meant there wasn't as much of the lower circuits as usual, tried some of the comp qualifying problems but they were above me, did the whole V0-V1 circuit with as few breaks as possible to tire myself out (it worked!)
So getting back into it a bit, need to try and fit in a core session at home or something!
Does anyone have tips about re-soling shoes/just buying new ones? I have a hole in the toe of my left and the bit above is getting thin, just trying to work out if it's worth it or if I should just get a new pair?
STG (next 4 weeks): get back into regular training, get over recent confidence issues, have a healthy month, mileage
MTG (before winter): 6a bouldering regularly, keep leading trad (been over a month now so back to VDiff's) get on some sport and train hard when indoors, get in shape for font!
LTG (over next 6/9 months): get to know my technique and style, push through to HS trad, try and boulder 6b get on some sport
M: Got back of holiday late
T: Complete zombie, just about managed to stay awake after work to eat
W: Rokt session, climbed ok but everything felt hard...plus noticed I have a hole in my shoes =(
T/F: rehearsals and laziness
S: quick holmfirth session, am still struggling outdoors with trusting anything I used too, keep on at it I guess to get through this problem
S: depot session, the BMC comp meant there wasn't as much of the lower circuits as usual, tried some of the comp qualifying problems but they were above me, did the whole V0-V1 circuit with as few breaks as possible to tire myself out (it worked!)
So getting back into it a bit, need to try and fit in a core session at home or something!
Does anyone have tips about re-soling shoes/just buying new ones? I have a hole in the toe of my left and the bit above is getting thin, just trying to work out if it's worth it or if I should just get a new pair?
In reply to mattrm: Cheers Matt
Good week on the training front, no sends but some break through's!
Monday: Rested as planned to go out Tuesday which fell through!
Tuesday: Rested as again planned to go out Wednesday which also fell through!
Wednesday: Deadhangs -
10 Minute feet-on moving hangs.
Improved in all hangs since 16th July! Happy!
3 Finger Open-Hand (30mm Edge 10kg added)
S1: 10secs S2: 11secs 3: 11secs
Sloper 35's (nestle/cheating)
S1: 4secs S2: 4secs S3: 5secs
4 Finger Half-Crimp - (20mm Edge)
S1: 5secs S2: 5secs S3: 6secs
Middle 2 Open - (25mm? Edge, middle size pocked on the BM2000)
S1: 11secs S2: 14secs S3: 14secs
Front 2 Open (30mm)
S1: 5secs S2: 6secs S3: 5secs
Back 3 Open (30mm)
S1: 5secs S2: 5secs S3: 5secs
Thursday: Dinbren with Ally & Luke - Got some great new beta for the F7b+ proj thank to Ally! Got a massively easier way of doing the crux, got to a high point on redpoint when tired so going to go all out on it this week! Confident!
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Went to Pigeon's Cave with Doylo, tons of beast's down there, Shauna Coxsey, Ned Feeley, Alex Barrows etc. Watched some F8a flashes and belayed Doylo on the first ascent of his F8b proj, "Speckled Jim". Inspiring stuff!
I tried some hideous 3 bolt 7a+, failed on the on-sight. Had one nails move, tried to redpoint it and it ripped a chunk out of my finger so I sacked it off, watched the beasts climb instead.
Sunday: Aerocap warm-up. 20 mins feet-on moving hangs.
3 x (1:40 on, 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 5 minutes)
Felt invincible to getting pumped for some reason! Changed the moves I was doing so it was harder and included a cut loose half way though too?? Might have been the good warm up I had, maybe something to keep in mind at the crag?
Going to try an get 30 - 40 minutes Aerocap workout's in as active rest on rest days when I can.
Good week on the training front, no sends but some break through's!
Monday: Rested as planned to go out Tuesday which fell through!
Tuesday: Rested as again planned to go out Wednesday which also fell through!
Wednesday: Deadhangs -
10 Minute feet-on moving hangs.
Improved in all hangs since 16th July! Happy!
3 Finger Open-Hand (30mm Edge 10kg added)
S1: 10secs S2: 11secs 3: 11secs
Sloper 35's (nestle/cheating)
S1: 4secs S2: 4secs S3: 5secs
4 Finger Half-Crimp - (20mm Edge)
S1: 5secs S2: 5secs S3: 6secs
Middle 2 Open - (25mm? Edge, middle size pocked on the BM2000)
S1: 11secs S2: 14secs S3: 14secs
Front 2 Open (30mm)
S1: 5secs S2: 6secs S3: 5secs
Back 3 Open (30mm)
S1: 5secs S2: 5secs S3: 5secs
Thursday: Dinbren with Ally & Luke - Got some great new beta for the F7b+ proj thank to Ally! Got a massively easier way of doing the crux, got to a high point on redpoint when tired so going to go all out on it this week! Confident!
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Went to Pigeon's Cave with Doylo, tons of beast's down there, Shauna Coxsey, Ned Feeley, Alex Barrows etc. Watched some F8a flashes and belayed Doylo on the first ascent of his F8b proj, "Speckled Jim". Inspiring stuff!
I tried some hideous 3 bolt 7a+, failed on the on-sight. Had one nails move, tried to redpoint it and it ripped a chunk out of my finger so I sacked it off, watched the beasts climb instead.
Sunday: Aerocap warm-up. 20 mins feet-on moving hangs.
3 x (1:40 on, 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 5 minutes)
Felt invincible to getting pumped for some reason! Changed the moves I was doing so it was harder and included a cut loose half way though too?? Might have been the good warm up I had, maybe something to keep in mind at the crag?
Going to try an get 30 - 40 minutes Aerocap workout's in as active rest on rest days when I can.
In reply to mattrm:
m: 10 mile road and trail run 7:00 pace
t: am: 7 mile trail run. pm: 11 miles with 6 miles at 6:25 pace.
w; 12 miles road and trail run 6:20 pace
t: 8 miles with 3 x 1km at 3:10 pace and 3 x 200m reps
f: 6 miles 7 min mile pace
s: am 3.2 miles steady run. pm: rostock nacht marathon, 2nd, 1:17:40 tough course and very humid, plus 1 mile warm up and 1 mile cool down
s: am: 4.5 miles steady. pm: 8 mile trail run steady
m: 10 mile road and trail run 7:00 pace
t: am: 7 mile trail run. pm: 11 miles with 6 miles at 6:25 pace.
w; 12 miles road and trail run 6:20 pace
t: 8 miles with 3 x 1km at 3:10 pace and 3 x 200m reps
f: 6 miles 7 min mile pace
s: am 3.2 miles steady run. pm: rostock nacht marathon, 2nd, 1:17:40 tough course and very humid, plus 1 mile warm up and 1 mile cool down
s: am: 4.5 miles steady. pm: 8 mile trail run steady
In reply to AJM:
If you're keen to do some sport as well as trad next week I'll definitely be up for it, and not completely averse to a day at one of your haunts or at Kilnsey if the weather isnt amazing? I had been planning to maybe suggest a day or two of peak lime in an effort to (a) show you cheedale and (b) spend some time on my own project anyway, so I can't complain - but rain seems to have put paid to that, at the Cornice at least. Think we should take stock of conditions and decide where to go next weekend.
> (In reply to mattrm)
> Another week of good progress this week. It feels like a window might be starting to open on some of my local projects. I don't know what next week will bring - I might be up at Kilnsey back on the Ashes - and the week after I'm meant to be off adventuring with Si dH. I just hope the window stays open long enough!
If you're keen to do some sport as well as trad next week I'll definitely be up for it, and not completely averse to a day at one of your haunts or at Kilnsey if the weather isnt amazing? I had been planning to maybe suggest a day or two of peak lime in an effort to (a) show you cheedale and (b) spend some time on my own project anyway, so I can't complain - but rain seems to have put paid to that, at the Cornice at least. Think we should take stock of conditions and decide where to go next weekend.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt,
Must just say good luck to MBH for the BGR. Respect for just getting out there and giving it a crack. As i said what have you got to lose ?
Some revelations this week.
I am very bad at intense sequences and have no power to speak of.
After spotting a potential weakness last week ( literally ) i got back on the BM instead of the board this week. I could hardly hold on. It was hot and greasy but even so there were 2 very poor performances. A few months ago i was adding weight to the bottom rung holds. Now i can't even do 7secs on anything on the bottom rail. On the plus side my fitness from the board can be easily maintained and i have found a huge weakness to work on. When i get them both equally trained i should be crushing.
Also need to work on power somehow. DWS at Gibraltar this weekend was amazing. Some so so routes but some amazing lines too. After a false start on a 6b warm up ( didn't fall off just bottled it and reversed ) i got into the swing of it and had a ball. Tried an hilarious 7a where you start with a left underut held by your right armpit while your right has a crimp in the roof totally out the left with your body almost horizontal and feet on a little pinnacle. You then go full on and leap for a big rail with both hands. Total lunacy. After that reach under a bulge for a blind good hold and cut loose and campus your way up the front wall of the cave. Fell off one move up that. No power at all with no feet on. Brilliant fun though.
Running was OK with 35 miles and long run of 18.
HOWEVER as my wife selfishly accepted her dream job last week i now won't be able to do the ultra as she will be in the UK when it's on.
So full speed ahead for getting 8a before we all come back next Easter. It's probably the best chance i'm going to have so need to get to it.
Back to the UK on tuesday and weather permitting i want to achieve a couple of things while i am over:
7b
Repeat Hueco Crack
Repeat Dreaming of Red Rocks
or go to the wall a few times
Cheers Matt,
Must just say good luck to MBH for the BGR. Respect for just getting out there and giving it a crack. As i said what have you got to lose ?
Some revelations this week.
I am very bad at intense sequences and have no power to speak of.
After spotting a potential weakness last week ( literally ) i got back on the BM instead of the board this week. I could hardly hold on. It was hot and greasy but even so there were 2 very poor performances. A few months ago i was adding weight to the bottom rung holds. Now i can't even do 7secs on anything on the bottom rail. On the plus side my fitness from the board can be easily maintained and i have found a huge weakness to work on. When i get them both equally trained i should be crushing.
Also need to work on power somehow. DWS at Gibraltar this weekend was amazing. Some so so routes but some amazing lines too. After a false start on a 6b warm up ( didn't fall off just bottled it and reversed ) i got into the swing of it and had a ball. Tried an hilarious 7a where you start with a left underut held by your right armpit while your right has a crimp in the roof totally out the left with your body almost horizontal and feet on a little pinnacle. You then go full on and leap for a big rail with both hands. Total lunacy. After that reach under a bulge for a blind good hold and cut loose and campus your way up the front wall of the cave. Fell off one move up that. No power at all with no feet on. Brilliant fun though.
Running was OK with 35 miles and long run of 18.
HOWEVER as my wife selfishly accepted her dream job last week i now won't be able to do the ultra as she will be in the UK when it's on.
So full speed ahead for getting 8a before we all come back next Easter. It's probably the best chance i'm going to have so need to get to it.
Back to the UK on tuesday and weather permitting i want to achieve a couple of things while i am over:
7b
Repeat Hueco Crack
Repeat Dreaming of Red Rocks
or go to the wall a few times
In reply to mbh: Good luck.. well done for having a go. It takes guts to step up and have a go. I know many fit runners who keep saying 'one day'.. yet always have an excuse.. yet these rounds give so many great experiences..
In reply to mattrm: Thanks Matt.
Work, work, work. Long days and all weekend but...
Tue - First run in a while that didn't hurt. Butt cheek is working properly now, so managed about 3 miles of fartlek with lots of sprint/slow. Then did some intervals and tried to do them hard enough to puke. Failed.
Today - Boulder room. First time in a while and obviously cautious about the dislocated finger from 10 days ago. Two hours with just a 15min break. Flashed a fingery V2, sorted out holds to practise the crux of the E3 6a in the quarries. Tried some V3/4 problems. Felt good actually, feet were neat and felt braver.
Changing my goals from New Year. They were 7a (happy with 6b onsight), V4 (outdoors) and E1 5b.
Since I've only done one day of sport at Portland all year and do very little sport indoors, I'm forgetting 7a and will try and do a 6b clean outdoors. Never tried one, never done a 6b clean indoors either.
A V4 would mean getting bouldering and I've been sidetracked to be honest. Only had a day at Porth Ysgo when knackered.
Which leaves the trad - at the end of last year, I'd led one HS 4c single pitch route. Now I've soloed that grade and led an E1. In fact I just need one more HVS and I've done my E1 pyramid. Next time in the quarries, I wanna get on lead on the E3 and lead Pull my Daisy (E2) on Rainbow Slab before years end.
So new goals for this year are 6b clean and E3 clean.
STG - Get stronger before Spanish trip in 6 weeks. This means loosing weight, so it's time to be hard on myself.
Work, work, work. Long days and all weekend but...
Tue - First run in a while that didn't hurt. Butt cheek is working properly now, so managed about 3 miles of fartlek with lots of sprint/slow. Then did some intervals and tried to do them hard enough to puke. Failed.
Today - Boulder room. First time in a while and obviously cautious about the dislocated finger from 10 days ago. Two hours with just a 15min break. Flashed a fingery V2, sorted out holds to practise the crux of the E3 6a in the quarries. Tried some V3/4 problems. Felt good actually, feet were neat and felt braver.
Changing my goals from New Year. They were 7a (happy with 6b onsight), V4 (outdoors) and E1 5b.
Since I've only done one day of sport at Portland all year and do very little sport indoors, I'm forgetting 7a and will try and do a 6b clean outdoors. Never tried one, never done a 6b clean indoors either.
A V4 would mean getting bouldering and I've been sidetracked to be honest. Only had a day at Porth Ysgo when knackered.
Which leaves the trad - at the end of last year, I'd led one HS 4c single pitch route. Now I've soloed that grade and led an E1. In fact I just need one more HVS and I've done my E1 pyramid. Next time in the quarries, I wanna get on lead on the E3 and lead Pull my Daisy (E2) on Rainbow Slab before years end.
So new goals for this year are 6b clean and E3 clean.
STG - Get stronger before Spanish trip in 6 weeks. This means loosing weight, so it's time to be hard on myself.
In reply to mbh: Best of luck! Setting off is the hard part over and once you're moving - it will all make sense.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers! Yes I'm pretty happy with my bike mileage now over the last few weeks so back onto the climbing a bit. Although I have just won a nice web dev project so balancing climbing with work is about to get tough until around the 16th. I'll try my best where possible, even if it's just short strength sessions.
Goals:
Get weight back down to around 142 lbs: Currently 145.2
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!)
This Week:
M: Work
T: Work
W: Work
T: Pushups, situps and bouldering session // sore skin after short time
F: Bouldering session, was cut a little short due to impromptu thunder storm
S: House hunting
S: Upper body strength session (core, opposing muscles and pullups)
Cheers! Yes I'm pretty happy with my bike mileage now over the last few weeks so back onto the climbing a bit. Although I have just won a nice web dev project so balancing climbing with work is about to get tough until around the 16th. I'll try my best where possible, even if it's just short strength sessions.
Goals:
Get weight back down to around 142 lbs: Currently 145.2
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!)
This Week:
M: Work
T: Work
W: Work
T: Pushups, situps and bouldering session // sore skin after short time
F: Bouldering session, was cut a little short due to impromptu thunder storm
S: House hunting
S: Upper body strength session (core, opposing muscles and pullups)
In reply to mrchewy:
Your E3 is Goose Creature right? If so that's potentially more than 6b anyway so could hit two birds with one stone (or did you want to get one onsight/flash?)...
Your E3 is Goose Creature right? If so that's potentially more than 6b anyway so could hit two birds with one stone (or did you want to get one onsight/flash?)...
In reply to biscuit:
Looking forwards to seeing you on a 7b come Thursday, assuming I get good news on the seepage state of The Ashes...
And it would be good to get on an 8a down your neck of the woods on the van trip, might help you get a run of days on something...?
Looking forwards to seeing you on a 7b come Thursday, assuming I get good news on the seepage state of The Ashes...
And it would be good to get on an 8a down your neck of the woods on the van trip, might help you get a run of days on something...?
In reply to Si dH:
Play it by ear definitely, but a day or two of sport during the week would be good - would love to check out cheedale or lpt (if we a're nearby and tides work), or spend some time on an existing project here or up north.
Play it by ear definitely, but a day or two of sport during the week would be good - would love to check out cheedale or lpt (if we a're nearby and tides work), or spend some time on an existing project here or up north.
In reply to AJM: That'd be cheating! Wouldn't it...
Goose Creature I toproped with dislocated finger to the top bolt cleanly and then didn't attempt the crux moves because I knew it'd pop the finger again, so the first time I try that crux will be on lead anyway. Dale placed a sling on a hook low down, so if you fell before the first bolt - no tumbling down the levels even if you break your ankles first.
I'd be happy just to get 6b clean to be honest, although I don't think a 6b slab in the quarries is beyond me as an onsight. Planning on slate lots during Oct and Nov, got two weeks of sport near Barcelona at the end of Sept - I think I should be aiming for a 6b onsight really. It's hard to set targets when I really have no idea of what I can do. Never redpointed and rarely dog routes.
Goose Creature I toproped with dislocated finger to the top bolt cleanly and then didn't attempt the crux moves because I knew it'd pop the finger again, so the first time I try that crux will be on lead anyway. Dale placed a sling on a hook low down, so if you fell before the first bolt - no tumbling down the levels even if you break your ankles first.
I'd be happy just to get 6b clean to be honest, although I don't think a 6b slab in the quarries is beyond me as an onsight. Planning on slate lots during Oct and Nov, got two weeks of sport near Barcelona at the end of Sept - I think I should be aiming for a 6b onsight really. It's hard to set targets when I really have no idea of what I can do. Never redpointed and rarely dog routes.
In reply to mrchewy:
The comments on it on UKC that mention French grades suggest anything between 6a+ and 6c+, I certainly wouldn't agree with the latter mind you
I did it several years ago so my memory is a little vague but I recall taking a very long time to work out how to pass the bolt, and then there's one hard move above it as well? A vague we ok,echoing of difficulty in comparison with French grey lime slabs would leave me to think that 6b wouldn't be far off the mark.
The comments on it on UKC that mention French grades suggest anything between 6a+ and 6c+, I certainly wouldn't agree with the latter mind you
I did it several years ago so my memory is a little vague but I recall taking a very long time to work out how to pass the bolt, and then there's one hard move above it as well? A vague we ok,echoing of difficulty in comparison with French grey lime slabs would leave me to think that 6b wouldn't be far off the mark.
In reply to AJM: Interesting. I guess I should try and find some slabs on the spanish trip - I might get up something then!
Spotted the little smeary foothold for the left foot straight away but from that, it's the getting of the right foot matched with the right hand that will prove hard for me and yes, there's one tough move as you head left. There doesn't seem much point toproping it as the crux is so well protected.
Spotted the little smeary foothold for the left foot straight away but from that, it's the getting of the right foot matched with the right hand that will prove hard for me and yes, there's one tough move as you head left. There doesn't seem much point toproping it as the crux is so well protected.
In reply to mattrm:
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st (2lbs gain)
M - 6k run
T - 15 mins yoga
W - Rest
T - Trad @ Box Bay - 1 HS 4b onsight
F - Rest
S - Trad @ Gower - 2 VS 4c onsights
S - Core & Fingerboard
Lots of good trad this week. Bunch of good onsights. Very happy with the VSes. Diet has been very poor this week. Lots of fizzy pop, bread and beer. Weather isn't as good next week, but hope to get out. The first VS onsight went well. The second was tricky at the top and I couldn't work up the confidence to use a sideways foothold and do a bit of a layback/tension move. But it was to a good foothold and the gear was pretty good (probably could have been better, but the second piece was good). Still the confidence is there now and I'm really happy with the progress. I think it's probably time to get on a HVS. I've got two lined up that I've done before, so the confidence that I can climb it is there. Won't be a pure onsight by any means, but there we go. If you've done it before, it's a flash right? Retro flash? Or would it be a headpoint? Separated by a few years admittedly.
1 run
2 climbs
2 core
1 fingerboard
Did do some ITB stretching, but not enough.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st (2lbs gain)
M - 6k run
T - 15 mins yoga
W - Rest
T - Trad @ Box Bay - 1 HS 4b onsight
F - Rest
S - Trad @ Gower - 2 VS 4c onsights
S - Core & Fingerboard
Lots of good trad this week. Bunch of good onsights. Very happy with the VSes. Diet has been very poor this week. Lots of fizzy pop, bread and beer. Weather isn't as good next week, but hope to get out. The first VS onsight went well. The second was tricky at the top and I couldn't work up the confidence to use a sideways foothold and do a bit of a layback/tension move. But it was to a good foothold and the gear was pretty good (probably could have been better, but the second piece was good). Still the confidence is there now and I'm really happy with the progress. I think it's probably time to get on a HVS. I've got two lined up that I've done before, so the confidence that I can climb it is there. Won't be a pure onsight by any means, but there we go. If you've done it before, it's a flash right? Retro flash? Or would it be a headpoint? Separated by a few years admittedly.
1 run
2 climbs
2 core
1 fingerboard
Did do some ITB stretching, but not enough.
In reply to mattrm:
Well done Matt, sounds like you're getting into the groove with it!
- Flash is first time but with beta.
- Retroflash is doing it "first time this time around" ie you've done it before some time back.
If you wanted to be totally pure you'd argue retroflash doesn't exist and is just a subset of head-point, which is clean after having been on it before. But it all depends how arsed you can be bothered with being about the label
Well done Matt, sounds like you're getting into the groove with it!
- Flash is first time but with beta.
- Retroflash is doing it "first time this time around" ie you've done it before some time back.
If you wanted to be totally pure you'd argue retroflash doesn't exist and is just a subset of head-point, which is clean after having been on it before. But it all depends how arsed you can be bothered with being about the label
In reply to AJM:
Thanks. I'm really happy with this weeks progress. Feeling much better with my climbing now.
Good to know. I've never really been sure what flash actually meant. I wouldn't say I'm that arsed about it to be honest. I just like pushing into a new grade on a route I've seconded before. It reduces the chance that I'll have a full on meltdown on the route.
Sounds like Right Hand Man will be done soon? Looks like you're making progress there as well.
And I've just noticed that the last VS was my 400th route (in the ukc logbooks) which does include a load of boulder problems and alpine summits etc, but that's a good milestone.
Thanks. I'm really happy with this weeks progress. Feeling much better with my climbing now.
Good to know. I've never really been sure what flash actually meant. I wouldn't say I'm that arsed about it to be honest. I just like pushing into a new grade on a route I've seconded before. It reduces the chance that I'll have a full on meltdown on the route.
Sounds like Right Hand Man will be done soon? Looks like you're making progress there as well.
And I've just noticed that the last VS was my 400th route (in the ukc logbooks) which does include a load of boulder problems and alpine summits etc, but that's a good milestone.
In reply to mattrm: Nice work Matt! Good to see you did two as well. I did my first VS and then bailed from the next five! Then jumped on an E1 and got that haha. It's funny what the head does.
Good stuff tho...
Good stuff tho...
In reply to mbh:
I just looked up the Bob Graham round - sounds like a good challenge! Good luck
> (In reply to mattrm)
>
> We will see about the BGR, this week I hope.
>
> We will see about the BGR, this week I hope.
I just looked up the Bob Graham round - sounds like a good challenge! Good luck
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt! It's good to be back.
A great week last week, I feel massively motivated and am really seeing improvements in my fitness.
M: run 45 mins, cycle 10 miles, gym - squat (hit 5 reps at BW) and benchpress
Tu: cycle 10 miles, lead climbing at the Castle - 11 routes (half led, half toproped) including leading a very overhanging 6a that I backed off a few weeks ago when my shoulder was bothering me more.
W: cycle 12 miles
Th: cycle 10 miles, short bouldering session, gym - deadlifts to 1.25xBW, benchpress to 0.7xBW
F: rest day
Sa: climbing at Tremadog, led 4 routes (S, HS, HS, VS). VS felt tough but steady, not too troubling.
Su: climbing at Bus Stop Quarry in between rain showers.
This week: get at least one long run in. Try not to aggravate sore elbow. Go climbing where ever is dry at the weekend!
Thanks Matt! It's good to be back.
A great week last week, I feel massively motivated and am really seeing improvements in my fitness.
M: run 45 mins, cycle 10 miles, gym - squat (hit 5 reps at BW) and benchpress
Tu: cycle 10 miles, lead climbing at the Castle - 11 routes (half led, half toproped) including leading a very overhanging 6a that I backed off a few weeks ago when my shoulder was bothering me more.
W: cycle 12 miles
Th: cycle 10 miles, short bouldering session, gym - deadlifts to 1.25xBW, benchpress to 0.7xBW
F: rest day
Sa: climbing at Tremadog, led 4 routes (S, HS, HS, VS). VS felt tough but steady, not too troubling.
Su: climbing at Bus Stop Quarry in between rain showers.
This week: get at least one long run in. Try not to aggravate sore elbow. Go climbing where ever is dry at the weekend!
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt.
STG: 7b at Kilnsey, more E1s and E2s.
MTG: quick 7b or 7a in Spain/Kalymnos
LTG: E3?
Mon: 4.3 mile flat trail run
Tues: Ingleton wall for circuits
Weds: nowt
Thurs: Kilnsey, top roped Ground Effect
Fri: nowt
Sat: 17.7 mile trail run over High St, Fairfield, St Sunday from Patterdale. 1,660m ascent
Sun: Kilnsey, top roped Ground Effect
I should have at least dogged my way up Ground Effect yesterday but I'm still finding the first move absolutely desperate. I'm going to stick with it though, after having investing so many days on it I might as well carry on.
Cheers Matt.
STG: 7b at Kilnsey, more E1s and E2s.
MTG: quick 7b or 7a in Spain/Kalymnos
LTG: E3?
Mon: 4.3 mile flat trail run
Tues: Ingleton wall for circuits
Weds: nowt
Thurs: Kilnsey, top roped Ground Effect
Fri: nowt
Sat: 17.7 mile trail run over High St, Fairfield, St Sunday from Patterdale. 1,660m ascent
Sun: Kilnsey, top roped Ground Effect
I should have at least dogged my way up Ground Effect yesterday but I'm still finding the first move absolutely desperate. I'm going to stick with it though, after having investing so many days on it I might as well carry on.
In reply to mbh:
Good luck with the BG! Awesome even trying it and you're fit enough. It'll be a breeze .
Good luck with the BG! Awesome even trying it and you're fit enough. It'll be a breeze .
In reply to mattrm:
I am certainly feeling more positive about my chances with this last sequence tweak. One more trick up my sleeve to try out but I think this time I might actually have the final sequence!
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Assuming you are preclipping the first wouldn't dogging be easier than topropimg if it's the first moves troubling you - you'll have far less stretch to contend with if you do come off, and the rope is above you either way?
I am certainly feeling more positive about my chances with this last sequence tweak. One more trick up my sleeve to try out but I think this time I might actually have the final sequence!
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Assuming you are preclipping the first wouldn't dogging be easier than topropimg if it's the first moves troubling you - you'll have far less stretch to contend with if you do come off, and the rope is above you either way?
In reply to AJM:
Yes to all of that! I think I'm just going put the first clip in on Thursday and work that first move a few times. Then maybe at the weekend start dogging my way up. I was hoping to not have to resort to these sort of tactics mut needs must.
Yes to all of that! I think I'm just going put the first clip in on Thursday and work that first move a few times. Then maybe at the weekend start dogging my way up. I was hoping to not have to resort to these sort of tactics mut needs must.
In reply to AJM:
I'd feel pretty short changed if I got on a 6b as hard as Goose Creature! French slabs are all desperate sandbags though - GC felt like a tough 6b+ to me (certainly more that than E3 anyway); 5a-ish up to the bolts then a couple of baby 6a moves to pass it - the second one was surprisingly on/off IIRC. The logbook comments are quite funny - mantling with no hands?!
> A vague we ok,echoing of difficulty in comparison with French grey lime slabs would leave me to think that 6b wouldn't be far off the mark
I'd feel pretty short changed if I got on a 6b as hard as Goose Creature! French slabs are all desperate sandbags though - GC felt like a tough 6b+ to me (certainly more that than E3 anyway); 5a-ish up to the bolts then a couple of baby 6a moves to pass it - the second one was surprisingly on/off IIRC. The logbook comments are quite funny - mantling with no hands?!
In reply to Pagan:
Yeah I've done some pretty knarly 6b slabs at places like Orgon, Russan and so on. Old school grades... Let's not even talk about Buoux! And there was a particularly vicious 6b+ at Mouries which might have been the hardest piece of climbing of an entire trip
But yeah, I've not done any sport (slate in particular) slabs in the uk especially recently, and my memories of the crux are hazy (only that it took me ages). So 6b+ might well be nearer the mark...
Yeah I've done some pretty knarly 6b slabs at places like Orgon, Russan and so on. Old school grades... Let's not even talk about Buoux! And there was a particularly vicious 6b+ at Mouries which might have been the hardest piece of climbing of an entire trip
But yeah, I've not done any sport (slate in particular) slabs in the uk especially recently, and my memories of the crux are hazy (only that it took me ages). So 6b+ might well be nearer the mark...
In reply to mattrm:
VLTG (Sept 2014?) - complete 3 peaks Cyclo-cross race
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond
MTG (By end Sept 2013)
Diamond projects:
#1 >8a+ Direct start to NGOOTB
#2 >8a+ Link-up
#3 >8b+ Uber route
Non-tidal wish-list for weeks when Diamond is a non-starter:
Mandela, Kilnsey (wet at the moment)
Insomnia, Dinbren
Supercool, Gordale
K3, Cornice (will it dry out again this year?)
Trad project in Clwyd
STG - Reassessment of where I am in comparison to project requirements:
- Fingerboarding - Tom's pull-up routine
- Shoulders - reverse flys and seated rows to address gaston & undercut weaknesses
- An-cap - once a week to maintain
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week - 1 session to be foot-on campusing to ensure high intensity
- Core & flexibility work - back felt weak and unstable trying LF - must try harder to fit in these extra sessions
- Lose some weight; new aim <73kg - 74.5kg and 6.5% BF
The week just gone:
M - Rest - sat on bum - felt like I was fighting some lurgy
T - Frodsham An-cap session. Felt terrible warming up and during first set, but got in the groove and completed 3sets of 4x long 7A+/B problems. Flashed by camera on way home whilst in a bit of a low blood sugar fug - AR$E.
W - Gym and sauna session followed by massive meal and 4* hotel stay - very good raffle prize including £65 steak - om nom nom!
T - Massive hotel buffet breakfast; felt ill after all that food - barely ate any lunch, but went out to Dinbren anyway. 6b warm-up, then 7a OS, 7b+ flash attempt ended in foot slip post crux, 7b OS, then 7b+ RP. Luke - you look super close to getting the send with the new beta - good luck fella!
F - Rest - late finish at work - did some stretching while watching tv
S - Cave - super hot on lip, but good conditions inside. Tried LF san pocket and got shut down by saggy core halfway. Worked original sequence and found beta i need to make move up to pocket, but got shut down on pocket to pocket move. 3x Left Wall laps, then went to Pill Box to re-familiarise myself to board style climbing. Good conditions; repeated PBO and did The Greek for first time. Then afternoon BBQ/leaving party.
S - Fast/flat 15miler on road bike. Minor fail accessing tidal sea-cliff. Got much wetter than expected and fell on wet barnacled rock - lots of scratches on legs/ankles/feet. Pulled a hold off project, but found better pocket close by after breaking muddy/salty matrix on the lip of pocket. Might be a 7B/+ move?
VLTG (Sept 2014?) - complete 3 peaks Cyclo-cross race
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond
MTG (By end Sept 2013)
Diamond projects:
#1 >8a+ Direct start to NGOOTB
#2 >8a+ Link-up
#3 >8b+ Uber route
Non-tidal wish-list for weeks when Diamond is a non-starter:
Mandela, Kilnsey (wet at the moment)
Insomnia, Dinbren
Supercool, Gordale
K3, Cornice (will it dry out again this year?)
Trad project in Clwyd
STG - Reassessment of where I am in comparison to project requirements:
- Fingerboarding - Tom's pull-up routine
- Shoulders - reverse flys and seated rows to address gaston & undercut weaknesses
- An-cap - once a week to maintain
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week - 1 session to be foot-on campusing to ensure high intensity
- Core & flexibility work - back felt weak and unstable trying LF - must try harder to fit in these extra sessions
- Lose some weight; new aim <73kg - 74.5kg and 6.5% BF
The week just gone:
M - Rest - sat on bum - felt like I was fighting some lurgy
T - Frodsham An-cap session. Felt terrible warming up and during first set, but got in the groove and completed 3sets of 4x long 7A+/B problems. Flashed by camera on way home whilst in a bit of a low blood sugar fug - AR$E.
W - Gym and sauna session followed by massive meal and 4* hotel stay - very good raffle prize including £65 steak - om nom nom!
T - Massive hotel buffet breakfast; felt ill after all that food - barely ate any lunch, but went out to Dinbren anyway. 6b warm-up, then 7a OS, 7b+ flash attempt ended in foot slip post crux, 7b OS, then 7b+ RP. Luke - you look super close to getting the send with the new beta - good luck fella!
F - Rest - late finish at work - did some stretching while watching tv
S - Cave - super hot on lip, but good conditions inside. Tried LF san pocket and got shut down by saggy core halfway. Worked original sequence and found beta i need to make move up to pocket, but got shut down on pocket to pocket move. 3x Left Wall laps, then went to Pill Box to re-familiarise myself to board style climbing. Good conditions; repeated PBO and did The Greek for first time. Then afternoon BBQ/leaving party.
S - Fast/flat 15miler on road bike. Minor fail accessing tidal sea-cliff. Got much wetter than expected and fell on wet barnacled rock - lots of scratches on legs/ankles/feet. Pulled a hold off project, but found better pocket close by after breaking muddy/salty matrix on the lip of pocket. Might be a 7B/+ move?
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:
Cheers pal! It's going down tomorrow!
Nightmare on the barnicles! When are the tides good next? i'm mega keen!
> Luke - you look super close to getting the send with the new beta - good luck fella!
Cheers pal! It's going down tomorrow!
> S - Fast/flat 15miler on road bike. Minor fail accessing tidal sea-cliff. Got much wetter than expected and fell on wet barnacled rock - lots of scratches on legs/ankles/feet. Pulled a hold off project, but found better pocket close by after breaking muddy/salty matrix on the lip of pocket. Might be a 7B/+ move?
Nightmare on the barnicles! When are the tides good next? i'm mega keen!
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:
If you need a belay for a tidal sea cliff before september.
Let me know.
If you need a belay for a tidal sea cliff before september.
Let me know.
In reply to mattrm:
STG (July 2013):
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Lead E2 try onsight
MTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Grand wall at squamish
E3/4
Goals for this week
pass got in two sessions.
M: Rest I think
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: rest
F: rest
S: Lack luster session at holmfirth repeated a few things nothing hard. Knee seemed okay
S: Depot reasonable session. flashed a few of the girls youth C comp problems. did a deep egpytion and knee sis not overly hurt. Did about 1.15 mins climbing then rest for 10. Ended the session doing an entire white circuit up and down. shoulder was aching so aat about half way changed to just up and drop off. knee also ached towards the end of the session
Next week's goals:
something on a rope.
STG (July 2013):
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Lead E2 try onsight
MTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Grand wall at squamish
E3/4
Goals for this week
pass got in two sessions.
M: Rest I think
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: rest
F: rest
S: Lack luster session at holmfirth repeated a few things nothing hard. Knee seemed okay
S: Depot reasonable session. flashed a few of the girls youth C comp problems. did a deep egpytion and knee sis not overly hurt. Did about 1.15 mins climbing then rest for 10. Ended the session doing an entire white circuit up and down. shoulder was aching so aat about half way changed to just up and drop off. knee also ached towards the end of the session
Next week's goals:
something on a rope.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt!
New revised goals:
STG/MTG: Cheddar - Right hand man
The Gap - Mad at the Sun
Dinas Rock - H1N1
Bourton Coombe - The full BC traverse, there and back.
Huntsham - Low Blow (though maybe more LTG)
LTG : f8a+ / F7C
M: 5K run - first run in a while so not pleasant.
T: Went to Huntsham with AJM. It was the usual procedure of trying to remember the moves on Ames Low after not being on it in a few months. Got a slightly better sequence off Andy missing out a few hard moves, so this should help save some juice when trying Low Blow.
W: Fingerboard - core and repeaters (7secs on 3secs off - 7times; rest for 2min 30 and repeat 4 times; 4 sets with 6mins rest in between)
T: Rest
F: Went to Cheddar with AJM. First proper go at Right Hand Man. Worked out all the moves (except the top) with some good beta from Andy though need to get a few of them more wired. So hopefully start linking the moves together in the next session and then begin the task of redpointing.
S: The idea was to head out climbing again, but remembered I had a barbecue to attend in the afternoon, so went for a 8K run instead. Probably for the best that I didn't go climbing due to the soreness in my shoulders from the previous day.
S: 4X4s at UCR on the routes. Surprisingly sweaty still, but not a bad session. Managed about 8 sets i think before tiredness/boredom crept in.
For this week, might get back on Right Hand Man in the week and might head to Dinas to try H1N1. Also need to get some PE training in for Kalymnos.
Cheers Matt!
New revised goals:
STG/MTG: Cheddar - Right hand man
The Gap - Mad at the Sun
Dinas Rock - H1N1
Bourton Coombe - The full BC traverse, there and back.
Huntsham - Low Blow (though maybe more LTG)
LTG : f8a+ / F7C
M: 5K run - first run in a while so not pleasant.
T: Went to Huntsham with AJM. It was the usual procedure of trying to remember the moves on Ames Low after not being on it in a few months. Got a slightly better sequence off Andy missing out a few hard moves, so this should help save some juice when trying Low Blow.
W: Fingerboard - core and repeaters (7secs on 3secs off - 7times; rest for 2min 30 and repeat 4 times; 4 sets with 6mins rest in between)
T: Rest
F: Went to Cheddar with AJM. First proper go at Right Hand Man. Worked out all the moves (except the top) with some good beta from Andy though need to get a few of them more wired. So hopefully start linking the moves together in the next session and then begin the task of redpointing.
S: The idea was to head out climbing again, but remembered I had a barbecue to attend in the afternoon, so went for a 8K run instead. Probably for the best that I didn't go climbing due to the soreness in my shoulders from the previous day.
S: 4X4s at UCR on the routes. Surprisingly sweaty still, but not a bad session. Managed about 8 sets i think before tiredness/boredom crept in.
For this week, might get back on Right Hand Man in the week and might head to Dinas to try H1N1. Also need to get some PE training in for Kalymnos.
In reply to mbh: Good luck!! You will be fine. Really inspiring seeing you just get on with it and go for it without all the massive amount of prep that many people seem to get caught up with.
In reply to Garrouli:
Might be a bit wet at the moment. If you're going over to Dinas in the evening, I could give you a belay if you need it.
> (In reply to mattrm)
> For this week, might get back on Right Hand Man in the week and might head to Dinas to try H1N1.
Might be a bit wet at the moment. If you're going over to Dinas in the evening, I could give you a belay if you need it.
In reply to maria85:
TBF it is a great part of the story.. the intimate knowledge you develop, all the days/evenings out recceing.. pacing for others.. I can see the appeal..
Also good on them who just go for it..
But the journey is a big part for many.
> (In reply to mbh) Good luck!! You will be fine. Really inspiring seeing you just get on with it and go for it without all the massive amount of prep that many people seem to get caught up with.
TBF it is a great part of the story.. the intimate knowledge you develop, all the days/evenings out recceing.. pacing for others.. I can see the appeal..
Also good on them who just go for it..
But the journey is a big part for many.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt
Goal: The ashes
Mon: indoor session, Rock over was closed so my aim of hitting the circuit board was gone. Heavy traffic meant I went to the closest wall which unfortunately was MCC. MCC never fails to disappoint. This time it was because they're repaneling the entire upstairs so the only bouldering available was the small bit in the main room. Ended up doing intervals of foot-on campusing to get some sort of training benefit out of the session.
Wed: Afternoon session at Kilnsey. Worked the eyes to boss section of the ashes and have a decent sequence for that now so I'll be disappointed if I can't get from floor to boss next time I'm there. Got a whack sequence for the boss to juggy break though so that'll need sorting out.
Nothing else last week. Should get two sessions at kilnsey this week along with a lethargic indoor bouldering session tonight (as I'm knackered already!).
Could not be more psyched for The Ashes. More keen for it than I was for Toadal Recall. The ashes has everything. it's long, has a cool crux section after a 'rest' (which is two big holds but it's pretty steep so not easy to get much back). by the time you're clipping the bolt at the end of the crux section your feet are about 2m above the last bolt so potential for some big falls. Also has that kick in the tail with the move to the juggy break. Sweet.
Thanks Matt
Goal: The ashes
Mon: indoor session, Rock over was closed so my aim of hitting the circuit board was gone. Heavy traffic meant I went to the closest wall which unfortunately was MCC. MCC never fails to disappoint. This time it was because they're repaneling the entire upstairs so the only bouldering available was the small bit in the main room. Ended up doing intervals of foot-on campusing to get some sort of training benefit out of the session.
Wed: Afternoon session at Kilnsey. Worked the eyes to boss section of the ashes and have a decent sequence for that now so I'll be disappointed if I can't get from floor to boss next time I'm there. Got a whack sequence for the boss to juggy break though so that'll need sorting out.
Nothing else last week. Should get two sessions at kilnsey this week along with a lethargic indoor bouldering session tonight (as I'm knackered already!).
Could not be more psyched for The Ashes. More keen for it than I was for Toadal Recall. The ashes has everything. it's long, has a cool crux section after a 'rest' (which is two big holds but it's pretty steep so not easy to get much back). by the time you're clipping the bolt at the end of the crux section your feet are about 2m above the last bolt so potential for some big falls. Also has that kick in the tail with the move to the juggy break. Sweet.
In reply to mattrm: Cheers Matt. Been feeling better this week though still struggling with allergies... I went to the docs a few weeks ago after nearly ending up in A&E at 2am not being able to breathe. Been prescribed an inhaler to deal with the fact my throat was closing up when pollen or dust is bad, together with super strong anti-histamines, it's not totally fixed it though. Next step is to hire a carpet cleaner to try and get rid of the massive amount of dust in the house that we've been fighting since we moved in last Nov - I swear the previous occupants never vacuumed... (or possibly had a cat, that would do it too).
Last week's goals:
- 3 x runs -2 done
- 2 x core sessions -1 done
- Learn to make tape gloves -I watched a video...
- Decent weekend of trad -sort of
- 2 evenings climbing, weather permitting. -tick
Seemed to get out plenty this week, psyche was still a little lacking though. Another E1 tick, but the E2 is still elusive. Really want to do one before going to Italy on the 24th but time is running out. Think I need to get on an E1 5c as I've never led 5c, even if I end up on a E2 5b (most likely) it would improve my confidence for it.
Bike commute every day, 1 way only on 3 days due to climbing
M:
T: Witches Quarry. Led The Reeve (VS 4c), seconded 2 more VS's.
W: Lunchtime run, 6km, 33mins.
T: Wharncliffe. So hot. Led a VDiff (yes! ha.) and seconded a couple more easy things. Good to catch up with a mate though.
F: Run to work - 10km, 1hr 3, 110m elevation.
S: Sargent Crag Slabs. Been recommended to me so many times it was great to get up there. Was hoping to get on Aphasia as a first E2 but got a little psyched out of it with a guy on it beforehand telling me the gear was all fairly crap (?) then someone else falling off it on TR after leading the E1 that I'd just done also. Disappointed in myself for not giving it a go, but it just didn't feel right at the time. On the plus side, led Holly Tree Crack (E1 5b) and Terminator 2 (HVS 5a) and seconded Lakeland Cragsman (HVS 5a).
S: Lazy rainy start... Shepherd's. Did Eve (VS 4c) then the coffee shop won. Low psyche day for both me & my partner. Core session later on.
E2 ain't gonna climb itself... I need to get on one and stop getting intimidated by a number.
Last week's goals:
- 3 x runs -2 done
- 2 x core sessions -1 done
- Learn to make tape gloves -I watched a video...
- Decent weekend of trad -sort of
- 2 evenings climbing, weather permitting. -tick
Seemed to get out plenty this week, psyche was still a little lacking though. Another E1 tick, but the E2 is still elusive. Really want to do one before going to Italy on the 24th but time is running out. Think I need to get on an E1 5c as I've never led 5c, even if I end up on a E2 5b (most likely) it would improve my confidence for it.
Bike commute every day, 1 way only on 3 days due to climbing
M:
T: Witches Quarry. Led The Reeve (VS 4c), seconded 2 more VS's.
W: Lunchtime run, 6km, 33mins.
T: Wharncliffe. So hot. Led a VDiff (yes! ha.) and seconded a couple more easy things. Good to catch up with a mate though.
F: Run to work - 10km, 1hr 3, 110m elevation.
S: Sargent Crag Slabs. Been recommended to me so many times it was great to get up there. Was hoping to get on Aphasia as a first E2 but got a little psyched out of it with a guy on it beforehand telling me the gear was all fairly crap (?) then someone else falling off it on TR after leading the E1 that I'd just done also. Disappointed in myself for not giving it a go, but it just didn't feel right at the time. On the plus side, led Holly Tree Crack (E1 5b) and Terminator 2 (HVS 5a) and seconded Lakeland Cragsman (HVS 5a).
S: Lazy rainy start... Shepherd's. Did Eve (VS 4c) then the coffee shop won. Low psyche day for both me & my partner. Core session later on.
E2 ain't gonna climb itself... I need to get on one and stop getting intimidated by a number.
In reply to IainRUK: I wasn't implying that the lead-up to a BGR in any way devalues it or isn't a good way to do it. It's inspiring to see anyone attempt one/finish one, after months of planning or not.
We saw a guy nearing the end of his as we were coming back from Gable a few weeks ago. Certainly made me start thinking about it...
Have you done one Iain? I'm guessing at yes, one or several!
We saw a guy nearing the end of his as we were coming back from Gable a few weeks ago. Certainly made me start thinking about it...
Have you done one Iain? I'm guessing at yes, one or several!
In reply to Eagle River:
Such a great route. On my first RP attempt, I did the crux sequence and fell off at the boss because I'd never figured out how to make the clip (had always clip-sticked it whilst working the route).
The next go, my RP, I got to the boss, somehow latched the break (a despairing throw - nearest I've ever come to moving dynamically) and got a violent attack of disco leg. The memory of doing the final run-out moves whilst completely unable to keep my feet on the holds has stayed with me!
> Could not be more psyched for The Ashes.... by the time you're clipping the bolt at the end of the crux section your feet are about 2m above the last bolt so potential for some big falls. Also has that kick in the tail with the move to the juggy break. Sweet.
Such a great route. On my first RP attempt, I did the crux sequence and fell off at the boss because I'd never figured out how to make the clip (had always clip-sticked it whilst working the route).
The next go, my RP, I got to the boss, somehow latched the break (a despairing throw - nearest I've ever come to moving dynamically) and got a violent attack of disco leg. The memory of doing the final run-out moves whilst completely unable to keep my feet on the holds has stayed with me!
In reply to maria85: Oooh, I went to the climbing barn on Mon night too. Lots of stuff V1-4ish and new comp problems up to number 10 or so... and number 18 which I was super happy about, normally can't touch anything that hard
In reply to maria85: No.. I'm actually planning a winter one this year.. just because my summers are too busy.. nice to get a pre-xmas run in.. but I'll take the short cut.. i.e. not recce at all and just try and arrange good support.. I'd rather do it knowing it.. but I can't from Germany.. I know the rough line, but would struggle without help.
In reply to mattrm: That's a good point. By the looks of it now, I wont be able to get to Dinas until weekend, depending on how wet it is during the week. If your about, then let me know and I can offer a belay too.
In reply to Eagle River:
Have you got stuck into the top above the break yet? There's no way your feet are 2m above the bolt at the base of the crux (not the dogging one, obviously) when clipping from the boss, but they'll definitely be more than that above the boss when you're pulling onto the ledge by the chains!
<My feet are on the glued on crimp to clip, and when I'm holding onto that crimp my feet are still down in the eyes (and hence below the actual clip itself) when and I'm not at full stretch there and only 1.8m tall...>
Either way good air is guaranteed by the extension of the draws, the amount of rope out and the rope stretch
Sounds like it might be in the bag for you by the time I go home...
Have you got stuck into the top above the break yet? There's no way your feet are 2m above the bolt at the base of the crux (not the dogging one, obviously) when clipping from the boss, but they'll definitely be more than that above the boss when you're pulling onto the ledge by the chains!
<My feet are on the glued on crimp to clip, and when I'm holding onto that crimp my feet are still down in the eyes (and hence below the actual clip itself) when and I'm not at full stretch there and only 1.8m tall...>
Either way good air is guaranteed by the extension of the draws, the amount of rope out and the rope stretch
Sounds like it might be in the bag for you by the time I go home...
In reply to AJM:
you're probably right, feels miles though!
next milestone is floor to boss and i really need a sequence for the boss to juggy break as at the moment I"m only getting it from sat on the bolt below. Couldn't figure out how people were switching left hand to the side pull and going again with the right as my feet are really high so it feels mega snatchy that way.
from the break to the top is fine............having rested at the last bolt. I imagine it'll be skin of teeth stuff having gone from the floor.
you're probably right, feels miles though!
next milestone is floor to boss and i really need a sequence for the boss to juggy break as at the moment I"m only getting it from sat on the bolt below. Couldn't figure out how people were switching left hand to the side pull and going again with the right as my feet are really high so it feels mega snatchy that way.
from the break to the top is fine............having rested at the last bolt. I imagine it'll be skin of teeth stuff having gone from the floor.
In reply to Eagle River:
I went from both hands on the boss (one foot on glued crimp, other on an obvious black rubbered ramp down and left in the scoop on the left that your left foot ends up in), to left hand on the sidepull, left foot up onto something rubbered to push against it, right foot outside edge onto the obvious foothold that I think is the crimp you use a move or so earlier to reach the boss, get the ear, pull body up/right on that to pull the left foot up to level with the right somewhere, and then go again with the right. Bit of a pop but prob goes more reliably with cleverer feet and a bit more practice of the body positioning.
I think I'm going to aim for halves split at the eyes as my next step so I get used to getting past the ear to the break and then up to the chains whilst pumped as early as possible so I can hopefully climb that bit like an automaton on redpoints.
I went from both hands on the boss (one foot on glued crimp, other on an obvious black rubbered ramp down and left in the scoop on the left that your left foot ends up in), to left hand on the sidepull, left foot up onto something rubbered to push against it, right foot outside edge onto the obvious foothold that I think is the crimp you use a move or so earlier to reach the boss, get the ear, pull body up/right on that to pull the left foot up to level with the right somewhere, and then go again with the right. Bit of a pop but prob goes more reliably with cleverer feet and a bit more practice of the body positioning.
I think I'm going to aim for halves split at the eyes as my next step so I get used to getting past the ear to the break and then up to the chains whilst pumped as early as possible so I can hopefully climb that bit like an automaton on redpoints.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks mattrm.
Ankle still bad.
I was on holiday all week, so probably wouldn't have done much any way.
Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.
STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.
M/T/W/T/F/S/S - on holiday / rest ankle.
Thanks mattrm.
Ankle still bad.
I was on holiday all week, so probably wouldn't have done much any way.
Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.
STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.
M/T/W/T/F/S/S - on holiday / rest ankle.
In reply to AJM:
I was getting right foot up to the crimp then getting the ear and ending up really bunched so it'll be good to try your method.
Psyched for Thursday!
I was getting right foot up to the crimp then getting the ear and ending up really bunched so it'll be good to try your method.
Psyched for Thursday!
In reply to IainRUK:
Yeah, I can understand that. It got like that for me with the 3000s. It's just that I live so far away (since when has England been this long? And I haven't even got to where the Romans, who walked there, built a wall.) that I might as well make an attempt out of what may become an extended recce trip. I know that. But the journey bit, while not on the hills themselves ( which looked awful big and growly as I drove by this evening) has been all those lonely and sometimes freezing 8 or 10 milers.
Anyway, here I am, in my tent, in the Lakes, ready to go.
Cheers Maria and others for the nice comments, which I really appreciate, even if, at this point, I am wishing I had never told anyone!
Yeah, I can understand that. It got like that for me with the 3000s. It's just that I live so far away (since when has England been this long? And I haven't even got to where the Romans, who walked there, built a wall.) that I might as well make an attempt out of what may become an extended recce trip. I know that. But the journey bit, while not on the hills themselves ( which looked awful big and growly as I drove by this evening) has been all those lonely and sometimes freezing 8 or 10 milers.
Anyway, here I am, in my tent, in the Lakes, ready to go.
Cheers Maria and others for the nice comments, which I really appreciate, even if, at this point, I am wishing I had never told anyone!
In reply to mattrm:
STG: Get outside.
MTG: 6 e-points in August.
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(29 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 0(1)
Focus: Lost
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. FoF. Committing to blind moves.
Mon: Mountain Biking..
Tue: Walked into Sergent Crag Slabs. Mountain Biking.
Wed: Shepherds.
Thu: Mountain Biking. Looked for dry rock.
Fri: Mountain Biking.
Sat: Family day.
Sun: Family day.
Got very little done on my climbing week. My friend knackered his wrist for the first 3 days, then weather & poor choice of (quick drying) crags meant we only climbed at Shepherds. My friend was more interested in seconding upto VS so we did Little Cham & Follys Buttress, both great cimbs. Took a look @ Reecastle (looks amazing) & Sergant Crags Slab (bit of a walk in!). I got my first proper taste of mountain biking, quite liked it.
So I'm noticing a trend with my e-point targets, I expect to get 15-20 a month when I infact get 10 or less a month... Weird because my best day so far has been a 9 point haul so I'm obviouly massively inconsistent or my motivating factors don't come together very often. Earlier in the year I'd thought 50 points for 2013 was possible, now I'm thinking 40, I'll definately be disappointed if I only hit my target...
STG: Get outside.
MTG: 6 e-points in August.
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(29 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 0(1)
Focus: Lost
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. FoF. Committing to blind moves.
Mon: Mountain Biking..
Tue: Walked into Sergent Crag Slabs. Mountain Biking.
Wed: Shepherds.
Thu: Mountain Biking. Looked for dry rock.
Fri: Mountain Biking.
Sat: Family day.
Sun: Family day.
Got very little done on my climbing week. My friend knackered his wrist for the first 3 days, then weather & poor choice of (quick drying) crags meant we only climbed at Shepherds. My friend was more interested in seconding upto VS so we did Little Cham & Follys Buttress, both great cimbs. Took a look @ Reecastle (looks amazing) & Sergant Crags Slab (bit of a walk in!). I got my first proper taste of mountain biking, quite liked it.
So I'm noticing a trend with my e-point targets, I expect to get 15-20 a month when I infact get 10 or less a month... Weird because my best day so far has been a 9 point haul so I'm obviouly massively inconsistent or my motivating factors don't come together very often. Earlier in the year I'd thought 50 points for 2013 was possible, now I'm thinking 40, I'll definately be disappointed if I only hit my target...
In reply to leon: New target for me now.. just sorted elite entry for JFK50 miler in November.. one of the premier US ultra's... will have to pull off a good run now...
In reply to mbh: Good luck, enjoy it. Yeah agree the late night solo runs on dark roads are a big part of the journey.. I love those runs.. I actually can't wait for winter as I love those nights..
In reply to mattrm: Got on a 7b at the weekend, maybe doesn't feel too much further away than a few of the 7a+ I have tried. No shortage of projects, need to start ticking them off!
M:
T: Matrix: poor session, nothing over 6a+
W: Pull ups etc.
T: Mountain bike 6 miles, then walked 5.5 miles back home with a flat!
F:
S: Working Sideshow - started lead dogging this, bolt to bolted it with the 2nd bolt clipped. Main issue is the burly bouldery start
S: Working WYSIYG
STG: More 7a's (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): One more done: this years RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (3)
MTG: 7a+ Appetite/Direct Flight/Sidekick/Gilbert Cardigan
LTG: 7b WYSWIG - started working
M:
T: Matrix: poor session, nothing over 6a+
W: Pull ups etc.
T: Mountain bike 6 miles, then walked 5.5 miles back home with a flat!
F:
S: Working Sideshow - started lead dogging this, bolt to bolted it with the 2nd bolt clipped. Main issue is the burly bouldery start
S: Working WYSIYG
STG: More 7a's (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): One more done: this years RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (3)
MTG: 7a+ Appetite/Direct Flight/Sidekick/Gilbert Cardigan
LTG: 7b WYSWIG - started working
In reply to mattrm: Thanks Matt,
Glad to read about people's progress.
I had a pretty good week
M: Brilliant indoor session. Got my 7b project and then bagged a 7B.
T: Ran 8K
W: Rest
T: Indoor leading. Drop clipping session, must have fallen over 40m in total. Fun/scary stuff. Tried my first 7c, dogged to the top and managed all the moves so quite happy.
F: Rest
S: Outdoor climbing. Went to Llanberis (What a brilliant place) for my first time on Slate. On sighted a E2 5c, so another good day.
S: Rest/Skateboarding
Glad to read about people's progress.
I had a pretty good week
M: Brilliant indoor session. Got my 7b project and then bagged a 7B.
T: Ran 8K
W: Rest
T: Indoor leading. Drop clipping session, must have fallen over 40m in total. Fun/scary stuff. Tried my first 7c, dogged to the top and managed all the moves so quite happy.
F: Rest
S: Outdoor climbing. Went to Llanberis (What a brilliant place) for my first time on Slate. On sighted a E2 5c, so another good day.
S: Rest/Skateboarding
In reply to mattrm: Thanks Matt,
Wild camp was great, it was just the trudge over soul-destroying heather, bog and reed grass between Y Drum and Sychnant Pass that was awful!
This week has been fairly recumbent. The aim was to get onto another E1. However, best laid plans and all that...
M: Rest
Tu: Went to Craig Y Don with the intention of leading Hydro Ei 5b. Partner decided we should warm up on the nearby VS Changeling. 2 and a half hours later, he'd made it half way and psyched himself out, leaving me about 30 minutes before dark. to re-lead to the same point, strip his gear, and lower off a sling around a thread (and leave it behind). DENIED. Consoled with beer.
W: Went to the Liverpool FAST cinema to see "Dial M For Murder 3D" (the original remastered!) followed by a visit to John Peel's tribute pub, The Ravenscroft. Another beer.
Th: Decided to join CMC at Dinbren. Did led a couple of nice routes onsight, at the level of the new partner I was climbing with:
* Sally In Pink VS 4b
* Astrola VS 4b
* Another beer :/
F: Rest
Sa: Rest
Su: MLT training began, navigating in the rain!
--
So, to summarize:
Too much beer;
E1 Denied;
VS mileage maintained.
Might need to find a new partner, or get him onto Precious Metal!
Wild camp was great, it was just the trudge over soul-destroying heather, bog and reed grass between Y Drum and Sychnant Pass that was awful!
This week has been fairly recumbent. The aim was to get onto another E1. However, best laid plans and all that...
M: Rest
Tu: Went to Craig Y Don with the intention of leading Hydro Ei 5b. Partner decided we should warm up on the nearby VS Changeling. 2 and a half hours later, he'd made it half way and psyched himself out, leaving me about 30 minutes before dark. to re-lead to the same point, strip his gear, and lower off a sling around a thread (and leave it behind). DENIED. Consoled with beer.
W: Went to the Liverpool FAST cinema to see "Dial M For Murder 3D" (the original remastered!) followed by a visit to John Peel's tribute pub, The Ravenscroft. Another beer.
Th: Decided to join CMC at Dinbren. Did led a couple of nice routes onsight, at the level of the new partner I was climbing with:
* Sally In Pink VS 4b
* Astrola VS 4b
* Another beer :/
F: Rest
Sa: Rest
Su: MLT training began, navigating in the rain!
--
So, to summarize:
Too much beer;
E1 Denied;
VS mileage maintained.
Might need to find a new partner, or get him onto Precious Metal!
In reply to mattrm: Sorry for late reply.
M - 2nd day of Scottish 6 day - really good run, a few minor errors but nothing major. Lovely area and managed to push myself running a lot more than on the first day. 10th.
T - 3rd day - made a couple of silly mistakes so slightly disappointed, but everyone else must have done too as 10th again!
W - rest day from orienteering. Managed to persuade Dad/sister to belay me at Moy Rock - did a couple of easy routes (up to 6a+) as didn't want to try anything I could possibly fall off! Fun to get out though and a crag to go back to.
T - 4th day of Scottish - ok run navigation wise but felt really lethargic and tired - struggled pushing myself on running, and area was more physical (some rough ground and bilberry bushes). Managed 10th again though - I have NEVER been this consistent!
F - 5th day - started going downhill...technical area and I messed uo the second control plus a couple of others. Managed to catch up a bit of time on the longer legs but my nav not up to fast, technical areas like this. 15th
S - final day of Scottish and they saved the worst area til last Had pretty much first start time which was a definite disadvantage - seemed to spend half my time wading through head height bracken creating nice tracks for the later runners who might have a chance of actually running through it. Screwed up a couple of controls badly, mainly due to not being able to see vague features under the bracken and couldn't catch up time on the running legs as I was fighting vegetation. Practically in tears of frustration at several points which didn't help my concentration! Finished - eventually. 21st I think. Long drive down south. Knackered
S - drove back to London from parents
Ended up 14th out of 41 overall on the long course, so acheived my target of being in the top half. Had some good runs, and a couple of disappointing runs - the last day really through a spoiler on the whole thing for me. But was really nice to have a couple of weeks of just focusing on exercise, resting and sleeping - realised how much better I can perform when I get enough rest and sleep and am not stressed!
Back to reality now and trying to fit training for Kaly into life.
M - 2nd day of Scottish 6 day - really good run, a few minor errors but nothing major. Lovely area and managed to push myself running a lot more than on the first day. 10th.
T - 3rd day - made a couple of silly mistakes so slightly disappointed, but everyone else must have done too as 10th again!
W - rest day from orienteering. Managed to persuade Dad/sister to belay me at Moy Rock - did a couple of easy routes (up to 6a+) as didn't want to try anything I could possibly fall off! Fun to get out though and a crag to go back to.
T - 4th day of Scottish - ok run navigation wise but felt really lethargic and tired - struggled pushing myself on running, and area was more physical (some rough ground and bilberry bushes). Managed 10th again though - I have NEVER been this consistent!
F - 5th day - started going downhill...technical area and I messed uo the second control plus a couple of others. Managed to catch up a bit of time on the longer legs but my nav not up to fast, technical areas like this. 15th
S - final day of Scottish and they saved the worst area til last Had pretty much first start time which was a definite disadvantage - seemed to spend half my time wading through head height bracken creating nice tracks for the later runners who might have a chance of actually running through it. Screwed up a couple of controls badly, mainly due to not being able to see vague features under the bracken and couldn't catch up time on the running legs as I was fighting vegetation. Practically in tears of frustration at several points which didn't help my concentration! Finished - eventually. 21st I think. Long drive down south. Knackered
S - drove back to London from parents
Ended up 14th out of 41 overall on the long course, so acheived my target of being in the top half. Had some good runs, and a couple of disappointing runs - the last day really through a spoiler on the whole thing for me. But was really nice to have a couple of weeks of just focusing on exercise, resting and sleeping - realised how much better I can perform when I get enough rest and sleep and am not stressed!
Back to reality now and trying to fit training for Kaly into life.
In reply to Ali: Sorry, have just realised how many errors are in my original post - I have obviously lost the ability to write proper English whilst I've been away!
In reply to AJM:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=12432
> - I might be up at Kilnsey back on the Ashes -
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=12432
In reply to shark:
Like! TICK!
Like! TICK!
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