/ UKC Fit Club Week 338

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mbh - on 08 Sep 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (337) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=561799

Eagle River - Good, focused and determined effort. Hope it pays off for you.
AJM - Magnifique, encore! (sorry...)
Nick Russell - Well done again on Mercury Direct!. How is the achilles looking for next week?
Needraken - Woop indeed on the V4/6s!
Si dH - Nice account of Pet Daddy and well done on Indecent. The elbow...? Impressive indents into all those 2013 targets
mbh - First fell race coming up - surely all this running will help.
kevster - Well done on MT. Good luck on your Lundy E-points wish list.
Exile - Well done on Beers for Fears.
pork pie girl - Sounds as though your head is in a good place. A typically exhausting (even to read) and impressive week. Good tries with the onsighting.
useful - 2 good MLT days ticked, and you sound happy too. Excellent!
mattrm - Good effort trying another HVS.
Joughton - 70 E-points in 5 days - hugely impressive and a great read.
nomics4sale - some serious running going on there, almost under the radar. I feel your annoyance at that 7a.
Luke Owens - Good going. Any more thoughts on how to keep going for longer?
Chestwig - Nice 7 c/+ link-up, but bad luck with the ankle. Hope the rehab is progressing.
Sankey - the Sideshow becomes the main show. Almost,almost there....
IainRUK - So you can drive from Rostock to Sheffield, then find the effort to do a 13 mile run on arrival. What is the mental state you adopt that makes you able to sustain this level of effort, pretty much every day?
Garrouli - It does sound interesting! Wintours Leap gets its second mixed review of the week. Hope the indoors programme does what you want it to.
stevemarkperry - Fantastic success on Crib Goch. Super well done!
mrchewy - The Carnedds are really nice, aren't they? Font not far off now.
leon - Glad you are making progress, and finding the training mojo.
Ali - Life won't always be 12 hour days, stress and colds. Not all at once, anyway. So chin up!

Hope I haven't missed anyone out.

The dark is closing in now, cutting some of you off in your prime. You'll just have to climb a bit faster. Lots of super efforts and supportive, informative discussions, mainly about Si's elbow.

Onwards all!
Nick Russell on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:
> Nick Russell - Well done again on Mercury Direct!. How is the achilles looking for next week?

Thanks! The achilles is feeling roughly the same as before. That means no running, no climbing and about an hour per day of stretching/rehab exercises. I'm trying to play it really safe this week in the vague (and probably misguided) hope that it will have got better by the 17th when I go to Lundy (where I intend to climb regardless).

Anyway, always trying to look for the positives:
- I'm getting into some good habits with regular fingerboard and core sessions, swimming and plenty of stretching. With a minimum of effort I should be able to maintain some of this when I get back into climbing.
- I think I'm making tangible progress on the fingerboard. It's the first time I've really had a concerted effort at regular sessions, so it's probably just the initial rapid gains, but it feels good!
- Core strength was a slight weakness of mine (with respect to partners climbing at about the same level), so it's good to work on this.

This week:
M - Swimming, 2.4km, some speed work
T - Core
W - (am) Swimming, 3.2km. (pm) Fingerboard, focus front 3
T - Rest (needed this!)
F - Swimming, 3.2km
S - Fingerboard, focus back 3.
S - Core

I've suspended short- and mid-term goals until I have a better timescale for full recovery (i.e. no pain when I prod it). If it's still bad into October, I'll probably define some Beastmaker goals, or core strength (learn to do front levers?), maybe even swimming (a pb is probably off the cards, but it would be good to know if I can still do a sub-minute 100m freestyle...)

Ongoing plan
Work on fingerboard, core and swimming during the layoff from running and climbing.
Longer term goals (timescale to be assessed when the achilles recovers)
Climbing: Consolidate E3, it still feels on/off. Get into routinely trying E4s. Sport onsight 7a/+, redpoint 7b+. See my ukc wishlist for specific routes that have caught my eye...
Running: Get enough running fitness/experience for a marathon(+). Try some fell running.
Si dH - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:
Thanks mbh! If you liked my account of my pet daddy then I'm sure you'd like the video my mate took...there was quite a bit of nervous up and downing at the end! Maybe ill post a link when he puts it up, but I think it'll be quite a while as he's doing a compilation.

Good week this week, mainly because the elbow seems to have really improved. Monday-Thursday I was doing the dumbell exercises from the pdf in the article andy linked, and they're either helping a lot or its clearing up on its own - but I suspect the former as this weekend has not exactly been a rest! So, for others with elbow issues I definitely recommend a read of that article.

Goals for 2013:
Grit: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 6 E2s, 3 E3s) (excluding snowballing!)
Peak lime: 8-10 E3s in 2013 (so far 6 E3s)
Elsewhere: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 3 E2s, 2 E3s)

Sport: Complete base of 7c+ pyramid (needed 3 x 7b, 3 x 7b+, 1 x 7c): so far - Obscene Toilet 7c, Brachiation Dance 7b+, Indecent Exposure 7b+, Tin Of 7b Sticky Wicket 7b and Ground Effect 7b. Just one 7b+ to go.

M: Just elbow rehab.
T: Elbow rehab. Also did a short & easy fingerboard session in the evening to test it a bit. Just foot on, two handed stuff. Felt it a bit, but not bad.
W: Just elbow rehab.
T: Just elbow rehab.
F: V short & easy fingerboard session to test the elbow. Felt it slightly but no pain as such.
S: Raven Tor with Andy. Back on Obscene Toilet (7c). Put the clips in to warm up and felt good and positive, but then proceeded to fall off the same move 5 times on redpoint. Andy had a similar experience. Theres a big move off an undercut which in isolation is fine, but on rp comes at the end of a sequence of foot moves, a clip and more foot moves all with your weight on the same handhold. Was getting powered out. On the plus side, I got the rest of the route nicely wired.
S: back to Raven Tor with Andy to see if I could do OT when fresh. First go up the same thing happened. Second time, despite clipping from the 'wrong' place just pre-crux, I ticked it :) Second 7c, 3 sessions in total. Later on, went to Cheedale Cornice for a bit. Almost retroflashed Marshal Music (7a) but ran out of juice to stand up on the final lip. The did Armistice Day as a quick redpoint (1st attempt, id toproped as a warmup a couple of years ago but didnt really remember it). Good day.

Overall obviously a good week, especially with elbow feeling improved after the battering I've given it over the weekend. Next weekend I'm off for a relaxed holiday with my wife for 8 days, so no full day's climbing for 3 weeks. Might get out one evening this week work permitting, and migh get a small amount of bouldering do e on holiday, wife permitting! :)

Cheers
AJM - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

> AJM - Magnifique, encore! (sorry...)

Cheers. Been a bit of a low psyche week this week. Been picking up some of the stress vibes floating round the house, the prospect of a job floating on the horizon has been making me wonder about how to schedule training/pick projects/etc, and I'm still struggling to get the hours in on what should be my biggest current goal but which it almost feels like it would be less stressy to sideline.

But anyway:
Mon/Tues - low psyche and tired. Nothing.

Wednesday - Huntsham.
- Did a cool 6C or so problem which goes along the lip of a low roof for a bit then up the arête of the buttress. Good fun, nice technical stuff with a cool heel and some body tension. Possibly the hardest problem I've succeeded on I don't know, although not grade wise, but then I don't get bouldering grades anyway, either they don't work or (perhaps more likely) I'm the least well rounded climber ever?
- Then went back to Sliced Slug and had first proper look at the second half of the linkup project. There's one hard move on the "up" leg of the problem, a deadpoint off a sidepull sloper for a slightly hidden finger jug and then tricky getting of feet up. Took about 20 goes but I got it in the end. Just hope it gets easier with practice cos at the minute I can't imagine being able to do it on link.
- Worked out the moves getting across into the up problem, a long span will cause some difficulties and the setup for the deadpoint will be a bit tricky too.
- I can see a link through to the deadpoint being possible but unless I can get that move utterly wired I could see much frustration occurring at that point!
- If anyone gives a crap the problem is Low Blow on here: http://www.vimeo.com/42087768 - I've done Ames Low which is essentially the first half, to the jugs after the massive span and fall across sort of move. The second half links this across into Golden Bicep which is also demoed separately.

Thursday - gate crashed my friends trip to Shorncliff, seconded some stuff. I am basically not psyched for Shorncliff, even the E3/4 Lundy Calling which I've seconded before I feel I should do because its there, not something I aspire to in the same way I do other routes. But it was a nice chilled day out and that was quite fun.

Friday - nothing. Rain overnight and I never quite motivated myself to slog up to Sliced Slug through soaked vegetation. Probably best for the finger skin anyway.

Saturday - Raven Tor. 4 trips up Obscene Toilet, 7c. First go was learning the moves. Second go I got to the crux move and fell off, I sort of had a linking go in mind but sequence only really broke down at the crux. Pulled back on and linked to the top. Overlapping halves on the second go, not bad I thought. Then 2 redpoints both falling off the same move. Its a long stretch and on the dog it feels fine but on lead you just sag a little bit and suddenly its too far. Frustrating reason to be failing on a move to be honest.

Sunday - back on Obscene Toilet. Warmed up putting clips in. Skin screaming. One redpoint. Got through the move but didnt quite have hands set, only about 3 hand moves to a good rest, but fell off. Skin doubly screaming. Sacked it. Went to Cornice, tried a 7a, gave up early on, skin so sore and generally feeling like I was out of power and climbing like a donkey - maybe due to skin distracting me I don't know but it was a humiliating experience flailing incompetently and slowly up to retrieve clips. Sacked it off and belayed.

I think I might have a session on Right Hand Man this week. Ticking it with sessions this infrequent seems way less likely than if I could get to it regularly once a week or more. Going to try and work some links on the boulder project too, assess feasibility of doing that deadpoint when tired. Might try some trad, who knows.

Irritated by performance at the Tor. I've come to the conclusion its a bit like Malham - ok for locals, but frustrating for people to travel long distances for (ie have to do multiple-day trips not day trips) because you trash your skin and so it limits what you can do. And to be honest I don't like the combination of silly polished tiny feet and sharp hands. It underwhelms me. So it would have been good to get the route ticked so I could move on. Or fall off the same move again so I could write it off as an annoying pain in the ass stretch and move on. But having got through the move I sort of feel like I should go back to get the tick. Suppose it gives me an opportunity to finish off Indecent Exposure too. Who knows when, and its got to go quickly otherwise ill have no skin left. All the right reasons for projecting summed up in one sentence! ;)
mattrm - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to mbh)
>
> [...]

>
> I think I might have a session on Right Hand Man this week. Ticking it with sessions this infrequent seems way less likely than if I could get to it regularly once a week or more. Going to try and work some links on the boulder project too, assess feasibility of doing that deadpoint when tired. Might try some trad, who knows.

If you've still not ticked RHM by the time I'm back, I'd be happy to come down and belay / provide crappy motivation on a Saturday or Sunday (end of Sept), you just have to ask.
AJM - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to mattrm:

When are you back? Might be around 21/22, the 28/29 is the weekend after Ali hands I'm so I am writing it off at the moment to celebrating! Definitely some beer owed as payback!
mbh - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

M - 10.2 miles run on road, bit of moorland.
T - rest for the big race tomorrow.
W - Sourton Tor Fell Race, 2.5 miles 230 m ascent
T- 10.2 miles run, coast path.
F - Nothing, not rest exactly, more cba.
S - 12.82 miles run, road and trail, 1.8 km swim, pm 5 miles run after picking 5 kg blackberries from a hedgerow I saw on Monday's run.
S -13.3 miles run, road and trail.

54 miles running, 1300 m ascent and a bit of swimming.

The fell race was fun - nomics, you were right - and although I came a lowly 11th from 23, I was 5th at one time, right up to the top, and learned a few things. I am good going up, but need to be faster going down - I lost 4 places on the final down section, including one in the last seconds. The event did make me run harder than I would have alone and I liked the style, all low key and friendly, so I'd like to do more next season. There aren't nearly as many down here as up north.

Overall, this week has been a bit flat apart from the race, with hardly any miles on the board by Friday night, giving me a lot to do yesterday and today to get to 50+ miles. At least two hours of that was in pouring rain, despite that we had sun for most of each day, and now I feel drained. I actually put my kit on late afternoon for a final short run to get to 60 miles, but sort of slumped on the door step and went back inside.


Ally Smith on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to AJM: I'm a free agent between wednesday and going away at the end of the month. A wknd raid to Cheddar and Brean could be calling...?
AJM - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

If it's dry down south this weekend I'm likely to be off trying dreadnought, but free 21/22, otherwise vica versa. Have that global solutions to try and finish at Brean and happy to trade belays around cheddar (assume you want straw dogs? Have you done shadow walker etc?)
leon on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:
STG: Get outside.
MTG: 4(3) e-points in September.
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(33 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Wed: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3).
Thu: Nothing.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Sun: Dovedale & Beeston Tor (1 point).

Lost my Friday session due to being knackered. I'm feeling good on Arc & Repeaters, bombing out a bit on the 4x4.

Seconded Easter Island today, I found it tricky. I managed to leave the guidebook in the car so we decided to try Beeston (never been before). I really liked the pocketed nature of the place but struggled to get my head into the idea that the gear only shows itself when you are staring it in the face. Took 1 point, could I crawl any more slowly towards my target?

Next week I am going to try for a 3 exercise session (see if the arms are up to it) & do one core session.
mattrm - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - NFI - on holiday

M - Core - 15 mins 270 moves
T - W - Work
T - F - 900 miles of driving
S - 4k run
S - nowt

On holiday now. Well since Thursday. Orkney is really nice so far. No bouldering or anything in yet, but I've got a place sorted out.
mattrm - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to mattrm)
>
> When are you back? Might be around 21/22, the 28/29 is the weekend after Ali hands I'm so I am writing it off at the moment to celebrating! Definitely some beer owed as payback!

Not back till 22nd of Sept. Oh well.

AJM - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks anyway!
IainRUK - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh: Training works.. I have no excuse not to train.. no kids, no commitments apart work which is flexible.

m: lunch: 3 miles. pm: 10 miles 6:55 pace
t: 14.75 mile trail run.. stung by a wasp, leg nasty swelling for a few days..
w: 14 mile road, trail run 6:50 pace
t: am: 6 miles. pm: 10 miles with x x 200's.. 4 x 1 mile around 5:30-5;20 pace.. 2 x 200m..
f: am: 6,2 mile trail run. pm: 10 miles on road 6:55 pace
s: am: 7 miles trails. pm: 8 miles road and trail
s: 10 miles 6:55 pace
Thickhead - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

I wouldn't mind signing back into this for a few months if that's ok?

I don't do any climbing at the moment (haven't done for ages). Not enough time around family and work etc.

Running is main (only) sport and focus at present is on 60km+ trail race in early December.

M: Nothing. Was meant to go out in evening, was about 10mins from doing so then got called into work.
T: 10mile road run 7:15pace
W: 17.5mile road run 7:30pace overall
T: 5mile road run up/down Mt Eden 7:30pace
F: Nothing (cold)
S: 10mile road run 7:10pace
S: 8.5mile road run up/down Mt Albert 7:20pace
IainRUK - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Thickhead: which race?
mrchewy - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh: Thanks for this.

Yeah, holiday starts on Friday... ferry to Calais is booked and there's a vague plan appearing. Ariege Riglos, Montserrat, Font.

Managed to stay under 80kg for most of the week until Fri (my birthday) when suddenly all this cake and pizza appeared at the Smart Climbing weekend. 81kg this morning.

Wed - Went to the wall but Dale looked washed out, my mind was elsewhere, so I basically walked in and walked straight out. Did book ferries for holibobs and thus was the evening saved.

Sat/Sun - Smart climbing weekend. Technique with Lucy Creamer ("appalling"), falling with Katy Forrester (easy), yoga (oh my lord), meditation and a whole load of psychological stuff (...and I thought I knew myself). Spent an arvo with Paul Poole doing rescue stuff too (brilliant).

In another life I'd have liked to have been a sports psychologist, so really enjoyed that part of the weekend. It was interesting finding out what I need to do for myself in order to be able to climb well. Basically the opposite of how I am naturally. Easy enough to fix however.

Falling - interesting couple of hours building up to falling on lead but to be honest, I was more bothered by my bad clipping technique. Not done indoor leads for ages and it showed. Not being allowed to touch/hold the rope at all was interesting and worth doing.

Lucy Creamer - she was good I have to say. I fell to bits mentally and was dreadful! Worst I've climbed in ages but managed to isolate so problems that need working on (straight arm) and should improve slowly. Turns out I'm way stronger than I thought too. Was really disappointed after this session but in hindsight, it was probably good that I went to bits as it helped me to see what goes on in my head when I climb.

Rebecca Williams - Lots of stuff about bringing yourself back into the moment, about thoughts popping into your head and dismissing them, about visualization. I think I learnt the most from this and I really need to look at how I construct my climbing weekends so that I avoid distractions. Certainly one day focused on my partner and one day on myself would help me to move forward as opposed to the taking turns to lead climbs. Looking back, when this has happened, I've climbed my best - not unlike how I solo. Good stuff.

Ropework - It's funny the little things that you think you do right but don't and doing the whole hoisting thing showed how right every part of your ropework and belay building needs to be spot on every time when it can be.

Sp hopefully, I can put all the breathing, mindfulness etc in to practice on holiday. Should be fun.
Needkraken - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh: =) thanks, I was quite proud of that session especially due to my slightly broken state from the night before! Just need to translate that kinda of gain into problems that aren't really my style and with committing moves up high!

This weeks been an alright week, trying to keep up the pace with the usual partner away is interesting but it's good getting to climb with lots of people.

STG (next 4 weeks): New STG time; make a training plan for font, regularly get V3/4 indoors, try and get back into trad, get outdoors when I can. Most importantly try and keep up 3 sessions a week while my regular partners away
MTG (before winter): 6a bouldering regularly, keep leading trad (been over a month now so back to VDiff's) get on some sport and train hard when indoors, get in shape for font!
LTG (over next 6/9 months): get to know my technique and style, push through to HS trad, try and boulder 6b get on some sport

M: Band
T: lazy (need to get back into core sessions at home)
W: Holmfirth session with a couple of people who haven't climbed in a while, good fun ticking off the usual routes, still having problems with being a wimp (get over it!)
T: rehearsal
F: rokt session, started the next comp round for a challenge to give me something to work towards but tweaked my finger half an hour in relegating me to easier routes
S: somehow managed to get out to do trad (impressive after fridays rain) went up to Pule and was lame. Followed up a couple of routes fine but failed on a S4a that I should be fine on (just in the wrong place so I couldn't reach the jug no matter how much I tried) got a bit demotivated as I was leading this grade. Finished of the day following up another S4a a lot easier but still grrr
S: was a domestic goodness cleaning and making cake

So, glad I got in 3 session but I need to pick up the pace a little outdoors and try and train harder indoors as when the students get back I'm gonna be there every week so need to make the best of it =)
pork pie girl - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:
sunday. hilly road ride.. laps on short steep hill
monday- malham .. BB and then road ride in the dales
tuesday- back to work.. pm interval training on bike in gym, core, bouldering for 30 mins on steep stuff mainly but keeping going to get a good pump, weights inc wide grip and narrow grip pull ups
wed- rest
thursday-hilly road ride and scout scar pm.. 6a-7a (dogged the 7a)
friday-malham- BB. turbo trainer in garage pm
saturday- interval training on bike in gym, core, boudlering for half hour (endurance) weights inc pull ups.. shower and a bit of table tennis :O)
sunday- hilly road ride (was sick in my mouth as breakfast hadn't gone down)

progress on BB.. started leading to the end of teh traverse up to the crux section. but messed up clipping fourth bolt.. think i need to clip from the pocket at the bottom of the tufa and not the crimp below it.
linked bottom section on top rope on fourth go (so when tired) so happy abput that.

really need to have a go clipping the bolt at the crux as its on my mind that it could be the thing that stops me.. if i could clip off the flat hold i reckon i could at least bolt to bolt from the end of teh traverse to teh lower off for now.

seems that unclipping isn't helping me get a clipping position and my right arm just gets tired really quickly on this route which i think is partly down to not climbing the efficiently enough before the traverse.

getting pins and needles in my right hand and arm pretty much all the time i'm out riding.. last year i had a major problem with this as i was getting woken up with it throughout the night and not getting my full use of my hand for at least a couple of hours after getting up..something that seemed to go straights after i'd stopped climbing somehting stupid (as hand injury in fingers and forearm)even though it didn't bother me whilst i was climbing. i suspect the problem might be coming from my shoulder and i'm worried it could be a contributing factor to the tired right arm when i'm on BB but it isn't something that has never been an issue whilst i am climbing

seeing chiropractor over next few weeks so he'll be able to identify if it's a shoulder issue

PPG
pork pie girl - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh: malham this week/weekend anyone?

i'm free thursday through to sunday if anyone wants to get out on one or two of the days.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - not yet, may wait until the Autumn

Autumn: Concentrate on local some sport, see if I can work up to 7b

Training:

M: 1hr fell run
T: 2hr climbing at Scout Scar - Got on First Blood, (7a+,) and Meet the Wife, (7b+,) to see what they felt like. First Blood not my style at all - butch moves through a roof. Didn't find it inspiring at all. Meet the Wife too hard at the mo' - too bouldery. Good to know what they feel like though.
W: 1hr 20 PE traverses at the wall - another good session with progress made
T: Rest
F: 1hr E traverses at bridge - good finger workout
S: 1hr fell run.
S: 2.5hrs climbing - had three top ropes of Crimes of Passion, (7a,) at Scout Scar. On here it appears people find it easier than Beers for Fears that I did last week - I'm not so sure though! First two attempts I found it hard to link many moves because of cold fingers. Good finding holds and trying different sequences though. On the third attempt did the route in two halves with the exception on one move which will go with a bit more thinking about it. Also had 2hrd MTBing.

Aim for this week: Work going to get in the way a little this week so back on Crimes of Passion or continue to work on PE for sports routes.
mbh - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

The pins and needles - could that be a bike fit issue? I get numbness in my hands when I ride for long, but think it might be because the stem is too long, so that I lean too far forward and rest too heavily on my hands. Just a thought.
Thickhead - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to IainRUK:
> (In reply to Thickhead) which race?



Kepler...
biscuit - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

Cheers mbh.

I've been missing for a couple of weeks. Emotional times. Plans have changed and i will now be moving back to the UK in the next month or so. ANd it'll be Manchester not York.

Got my arse back into gear and went running a few times this week after a couple of weeks of nothing.

Climbed this weekend.

Saturday - Archidona - not with it at all. Climbed past bolts and belaying concentration not there. Not helped by being in the cave with 4 young lads shooting pigeons with shotguns. 8 barrels going off in an enclosed space while you're trying to crank the crux of a route was not helpful.

Sunday - Cauche - I thought that i would just be top roping but things went better than i thought. Quick 6c warm up lead, much better. Straight on a 7b. I put the clips in and took a couple of falls. Had one RP go. Fell at the crux but got the rest. Sun was coming onto the crag by then ( we didn't start early ) so we bailed.

Pleased with yesterday.

Goals this week.

Run everyday
Climb at the weekend - try a 7b
Nomics4sale - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

Cheers mbh. Sounds like you had a good race, 11th out of 23 is pretty good - top half, I'd be well chuffed! I have the same problem with downhills, I overtake people going uphill but then get overtaken by them all plus more coming down. Everyone tears down while I pick my route carefully. Wuss. I think downhills probably need as much training as uphills.

STG: 7a/have fun in Kalymnos
MTG: 7a or 7b Spain
LTG: Dunno

Mon: 4.3 mile slow flat and fat run.
Tues: nowt
Weds: St Govan's: lead Army Dreamers (HVS 5a), Clean Hand Blues Band (E1/E2 5b/5c) and The Arrow (E1 5b). 2nd The Butcher (E2/E3 5c) and Poisoned Arrow (E4 6a).
Thurs: St Govan's: lead Front Line (E1 5a variation) and Deranged (E2 5c). 2nd Just Before Dark (HVS 5a).
Fri: Mother Carey's lead Joyous Guard (HVS 5a). 2nd the Meridian (VS 4c). Knackered.
Sat: 9.5 mile trail run Forest of Bowland, 387m ascent.
Sun: Kilnsey, top roped Frankie Comes to Kilnsey. Really like this route.

Pembroke was awesome. Dead chuffed with leading Deranged, such a good route and I really enjoyed climbing it. Didn't do so well on Clean Hand Blues Band though as I fell off on the hand traverse when I missed an obvious foothold. It went ok 2nd time. My third trad fall and the gear held so actually I'm quite pleased with the experience even though I'm a bit gutted to not have let it clean first go.
Nomics4sale - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Your absence was noted, glad to have you back! Hope you're happy with everything re the move. As I'm sure you already know, Manchester is a good place to be for everything - climbing, work, city life etc etc. And it's really well placed for access to most Northern UK climbing. Better than York anyway!
AJM - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Glad to see you back Andy - as R says your silence was noted. Hope all is ok...

Shame to not be able to see you when we are out in Chorro, but maybe we will manage to catch up either before we leave or somewhere else in Europe!
mrchewy - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Nice work on Deranged! Only seconded it but the moves at the top are immense and as a climb, I thought it was way more interesting than the Arrow. That's a serious tick, good stuff.
Ally Smith on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to biscuit:

My office is moving to Manchester this Autumn, so I guess a fair amount of my training will be done after work out that way. Stockport awesome walls is the likely venue - do you know where you'll be based yet?
mrchewy - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to biscuit: Nearly asked about you in my post - not like you to be missing, hope everything is working out for the best.

As someone born in Manchester, what's there to say? It's the right side of the Pennines for a start! Not too far from North Wales either...
mbh - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Good to see you back. Wondered where you had gone...

Thickhead - Welcome back!

nomics- Yes, I need to work on that technique of running at speed down steep, uneven ground without falling over.

mrchewy - Happy Birthday!
Nomics4sale - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Thanks, yeah it's an awesome route, brilliant moves.
Ally Smith on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh: Cheers for summary/thread compilation. Progress with the ankle - I can get my baggy trad boots on and climb relatively pain free :-)

VLTG (Sept 2014): Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race

LTG (Spring 2013): Unjustified, 8c, Malham & Fish-Eye, 8c, Oliana?

MTG (By end Sept 2013):

Get super fit for trip to the Red River Gorge:
- Complete 4x4 of >7b routes on steepness at Awesome Walls, Liverpool (not been indoors in 6mths).
- Complete double set of Beastmaker pull-up routine with >5kg on each hold (So far: +5kg and double-up on front-3, back-3, middle-2, crimp. Single & no weight on front-2, back-2 & sloper).
- Complete double set of Beastmaker repeater routine with >5kg on each hold hold (So far: +5kg and double-up on front-3, back-3, middle-2 & crimp. Single & no weight on front-2 & back-2).
- Complete 10 sets of 3min on, 3min off foot-on campus routine.


Diamond projects: Re-assessment of grades
#1 >8b Direct start to NGOOTB
#2 ~8b Link-up

Non-tidal wish-list for weeks when Diamond is a non-starter:
New 8a link-up, Devil's Gorge.
Mandela, Kilnsey (wet at the moment?)
Supercool, Gordale
K3, Cornice (AJM - you were down there this week - did it look dry?)

STG:
- Ankle re-hab & physio
- Fingerboard - one BM pull-up or BM repeater session per week
- Aero-cap - 4x4 on a steep 7a+ is this week's target
- Once a week foot-on campus session to ensure high intensity pump - aiming for 7 sets this week
- Core & flexibility work - fitted into rest interval in Fingerboard/foot-on campus sessions
- Lose some weight; new aim <73kg

The week just gone:

M - Foot-on campus. 6x 3min on/3min off. Felt beasted by last set. >250 total core movements during "rest" periods.

T - Rest

W - Beastmaker pull-up routine: +5kg and double-up on front-3, back-3, middle-2 & crimp. Single & no weight on front-2, back-2 & sloper. >250 total core movements during "rest" periods.

T - Dinbren; 6b & 6b warm-ups. 7b retro-flash, 8a dog (did all the moves) and 7a OS all on TR as paranoid about ankle.

F - Rest; hot/cold contrast baths for foot.

S - Was going to train indoors, but watching a pre-release of Doylo's "Fresh-Meat" got me psyched and I went out to Devil's gorge. Bouldered upto V5 and RP'd Underworld (7c) and dogged Hades (8a+) whilst glue set on hold reinforcement job on new link-up.

S - Back to Devil's gorge. Lee got very close to RP'ing his extension project, ripped a flapper and got me to dog it to retrieve his draws. It'll be an ace 8a+ when complete. Go'awn big man!!

Tried my new link-up; think it'll be an ace 8a when done. Then bouldered upto V6.

Overall, very good progress on the ankle, but still need to be cautious as I don't want to go backwards now it's semi-healed.
IainRUK - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Thickhead: Good luck, never did it but a few mates did. Meant to be a classic race. I have the JFK50 miler next, road, appalachian trail, then a 26 mile along a canal and then road..
Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

11th out of 23 would be good any time, but if you've got an obvious weakness to work on and you're still doing that it's really positive.

Running down is a skill that needs to be learnt and constantly practiced. Mate of mine who was really handy, (second in British Champs once I think,) once told me he aimed to never take a sideways step. I run down with this in mind as well as trying to 'squat' into the running, (hard to explain,) so your centre of gravity is lower and you don't get that 'breaks on' feeling on steep downs.

(That description is probably no use what so ever! IainRUK will hopefully be along soon to explain it properly!)
Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Really great to see your progress this year - nailing E2s most weeks now!
AJM - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Another cracking week, hitting good form right now!
Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Awesome effort with your climbing - from first 7a last year, (I think?) to working 8a now is really inspirational.

Two things I'd like to ask - Firstly, out of intrest, what did you have a go on on Scout Scar? interested to hear what you think of the routes.

Secondly, I'm in a position where I am going to need to be in a sports centre for two hours twice a week and have access to a good gym. I've done gym work at different times through my life but have dropped it for the last three years as I've got back into climbing as I found the time better spent climbing. As I am now going to be have to be there I was wondering what your suggestions would be for a good use of this time to complement / improve my climbing?

AJM - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

> LTG (Spring 2013): Unjustified, 8c, Malham & Fish-Eye, 8c, Oliana?

Have you got some time travel shizzle going on you haven't told me about? ;-)

> K3, Cornice (AJM - you were down there this week - did it look dry?)

Si dH - you probably had a closer look than I did?

I assume you've read the posts on the UKB conditions thread? Either way I think that most of that wall looked pretty dry - as Si says some grease in the back of breaks a little bit. Large scale seepage is gone but you'd probably need someone to actually go up it or a neighbour to get a picture of what its like in the back of undercuts. Didn't see anyone on that roof section on Sunday but UkB suggests Powerplant got some attention which might mean its ok?

> S - Was going to train indoors, but watching a pre-release of Doylo's "Fresh-Meat" got me psyched and I went out to Devil's gorge. Bouldered upto V5 and RP'd Underworld (7c) and dogged Hades (8a+) whilst glue set on hold reinforcement job on new link-up.
>
> S - Back to Devil's gorge. Lee got very close to RP'ing his extension project, ripped a flapper and got me to dog it to retrieve his draws. It'll be an ace 8a+ when complete. Go'awn big man!!

Sounds like there's a lot of stuff going on there atm. Is it as conditionsy as they say? Sharp holds? If no work arrives my backup plan (assuming partners for RHM continue to be elusive) for once Ali is done is to maybe try and flesh out the base of an 8a+ pyramid by boosting the 7c/+ ticks, so might incorporate some roadtripping into that again.
Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to anybody who uses weights:

I'm in a position where I am going to need to be in a sports centre for two hours twice a week and have access to a good gym. I've done gym work at different times through my life but have dropped it for the last three years as I've got back into climbing as I found the time better spent climbing. As I am now going to be have to be there I was wondering what your suggestions would be for a good use of this time to complement / improve my climbing?


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AJM - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Exile:

I don't really ever use a gym, but some thoughts:

- Buy/make something like a rock ring or wedge or whatever and use that on some of the cable machines or pull up bars as a fingerboard session
- Use the time to work the antagonists that we never really use enough (stereotypically!)
- Work stuff you're less likely to work on a normal fingerboard session like bicep curls for undercuts and things
- Throw in some stretching
- Folk on UkB seem to like deadlifting for posterior core work for keeping your feet on. Easier in a gym unless you already have a lot of weights at home.
- Other generic core training

Si dH - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to AJM:
I didn't look right in the back of the undercuts, but the whole powerplant / k3 / rnp bulge looked dry to me, no obvious damp patches. Should be fine at least if you take a towel just in case.
Si
pork pie girl - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Exile: hiya, yes first 7a last year (hardest thing i'd done before that was 6b/6b+ i think.. but decided last summer to try the sports climbing malarky properly.. well as properly as i could) many people with the time can progress that quickly over a relatively short period of time. i ticked lots of 7a and 7a+s last year and a 7b but this year i've only ticked somehting like two 7as/7a+, 7b+ and a 7c+ and a few easier ones... my log book is a disgrace.. not that impressive!! not like many fitclubbers who rack up impressive ticks every week :oD


ifound scout scar hard..the 7a i tried was to the right of beers for fears (or something like that) i wasn't planning on pulling hard that day as due to go to malham the day after. i think the place needs a bit of getting used to. you climb there a bit don't you?

re the use of the gym, i'm no expert and just do what i enjoy.i don't think weight training is essential or even that helpful to climbing but it is something i have done for a long time (not body building or anything but just generally using weights to compliment cardio vascular fitness). i sort of miss doing the weights if i haven't done them for a while.. for example this summer i missed a few weeks (for the first time ever)in order to allow enough rest for my top half whilst working on mescalito

if you have access to the gym and have time to kill then weight training isn't going to do any harm. do plenty of exercises where you're using your own body weight i.e. pulls ups, chins ups, dips. i also tend to lock off for a few seconds with seated rows. I also make sure i work my triceps and chest (not loads on my chest at all) to balance out muscle groups (as biceps and back are used loads in climbing) I also make sure i do plenty on my shoulders, as it isn't a strong muscle group for me but essential (for me) for climbing (i found mescalito very shouldery). one arm dead hanging on a bar is good and things like doing pull ups using a couple of towels or ropes over the bar to help engage hands and forearms. went through a stage of doing two finger pull ups on bars but packed it in because i'm not sure it'd be that beneficial.. on a finger board is different of course.

i train all muscle groups and tend to do 4 sets of anywhere between 10-15 reps per set, i do about 2-3 different excersies per muscle group.i don't rest between sets, instead i alternate betweebn sets on oppostite muscle groups e.g. i do a set on my back then a set on my ches until i've done 4 sets of each, another example.. a set on my quads then a set on my hamstrings. gets me through the workout quicker and i also don't get bored. a weight training workout including core would take me about an hour, cardio on top of this would take just under two hours.

if i'm climbing on the same day weight training i usually climb first if i can

if you have a couple of hours free time when you're at the centre then i'd throw in a good session of carido.. cardio first followed by weights and the core... i think cardio vascular fitness is really important (maybe not so important for a rock climber) but generally it's the most important type of fitness for me and gives you a great surge of endorphines :O) :o)

sorry if this is a bit all over the place


PPG


Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks for that - the antagonists stuff was one thing I was wondering about. (I should have said, I do a reasonable amount of core duing rests between PE traverses when bouldering.)
annak on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

I missed last week's update as I've been away in Lundy on the most fantastic holiday - in an incredible stroke of luck we managed to pick the week between the end of the (extended) bird ban and the start of the bad weather. 22 routes in 8 days! Highlights were American Beauty, Diamond Solitaire, Albacore, and then Sexilegs at Baggy Point on the way home. I'm still buzzing from the whole trip :)

I started off promising myself that I wouldn't climb anything easier than VS, and apart from one HS classic in the rain, I stuck to it. By the end of the week I really felt like I was getting somewhere, I led some cracking HVSs, and I'm suddenly starting to feel that E1 could be somewhere in reach in the future, rather than an impossible pipe dream.

This week: run! didn't manage to get any running in last week. Also join a new gym now I've moved house. And generally work out some sort of long-term training plan for the next few months.
mbh - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to annak:

Nice!
Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

The route may be Crimes of Passion, which is what I played on yesterday morning. Yes, I do find myself there a lot at this time of year as my outdoor climbing sessions are 6.00pm until it goes dark, (not that long at the moment,) on a weekday evening and 7.00am - 10.00am on a Sunday morning. As this is from Kendal Scout Scar reduces travel and maximises climbing.

Re weights - thanks very much for that. I've got cardio covered. I'm certainly not doing this as much as I have in the past, (when fell running / bike racing more,) but I basically only need to be fit enough to walk into a winter crag, climb well for the day and walk out. My life at the moment doesn't lend itself to consecutive days climbing so that's not an issue. What I do training wise is enough for this, particularly as I've got a big cardio base built over years.

I've not done weights since I got back into rock climbing and I have a finite amount of time to train. As I have access to a good climbing wall any time of day I decided that the time was best spent climbing with just enough cardio to achieve what I need, (as described above.) As I'm now in this situation I was wondering if there was extra training I could do, but am conscious that I don't want to be turning up to a climbing session already spent. Your thoughts have been very useful - my thoughts were moderate weights, 15ish reps, three sets, concentrate on working as many muscles as possible.

Have you used kettle bells at all? I never have but there seems to be more use of these going on now.
Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to annak:

Great routes - American Beauty is awesome!
biscuit - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to everyone:

Cheers people.

Cut a long story short my wife has gone to York without me and we're on a trial separation, whatever that means.Bit of a shock to say the least.

Getting my head round it now and feeling a bit more human.

So i'll be based in N Manchester for the foreseeable.

Not all bad as people have pointed out. Good access and facilities. Just not endless cliffs of orange limestone and good weather, but you can't have it all ;-)

On another plus stress and not eating means i've finally just about got my six pack back :-) Every cloud and all that.
AJM - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to annak:

Sounds excellent, well done! Must go back soon, so much still to do...
AJM - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to biscuit:

:(

Not sure what else to say really! If you're at a loose end any point and fancy some routes/boulders/whatever give me a shout.

Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Hope this all sorts itself out for the best fella.
Nomics4sale - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Blimey, sorry to hear that. As Exile says, hope it gets sorted for the best.
Nomics4sale - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Exile and AJM:

cheers, yes I'm having a great time. The trad mileage is paying off and I'm doing some awesome routes :o)
Nomics4sale - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to annak:

Just had a look at your logbook, very nice!!
pork pie girl - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Exile: not used kettle bells yet no.. noticed they seem more and more popular but wondered how much strain they'd put on the elbows with all the swinging about... i always make sure i'm out of the line of fire if anyone's using them in the gym in case they drop it!

i am going to srt up more of a training area in my garage so looking to incorporate those strap wthings that you attach to a bar.. all body workout if you use tricky positions and possibly added weight.. will also look at using rings for pull ups to help protect joints when doing pull ups.. i htink an exercise ball for any excerise that requires sitting/laying on a bench is more beneficial as you will also engage your core whilst training other muscle groups e.g. shoulder presses with dumbells whilst sitting on the ball with feet, ankles and nears close together

i'm impressed with your structure to outdoor climbing as this looks like it ensures you get enough done.. i did 5am start at malham a few weeks ago when the weather was ver hot.. waste of time though as i felt half asleep. but i do think a 8am at the crag (maybe not 7am) would be doable

if you're short of a partner give me a shout .. looks lie we live fairly close (i'm in hornby)
pork pie girl - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to biscuit: hiya biscuit.. sounds a difficult time for you.. like others have said on here there will be plenty of opportunity for a little bit of distraction as a few of us are based nearby and there's plenty of climbing opportunities..and i know how much you adore malham.. surely there's no better place to do a photo shoot of that six pack?!

try and keep your chin up mate x

Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

It's just not wanting to short change the family really. Usually a week day evening outside, (wall during winter,) 1hr at Sedgwick Bridge, (near Kendal,) for fingury traversing on way home from work on Friday, Sunday morning as described and 1 - 1.5hrs at the wall one other morning before work. I get a couple of fell runs or rides in on top of this - often comutes. This is quite a lot for me which is why I want to go into additional weights carefully so as not to impact on the climbing.

Know what you mean about kettle bells!

As somebody who has climbed at Scout Scar and other sports venues are the Scout Scar grades hard? It would appear so to me, but to be honest I've only climbed at a couple of other sports crags in the last few years and I've put the difference down to the bouldery nature of SS routes.
grubes - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Exile:
Hi exile
Re gym my opinion it is a good place for antantagistics (sp?)

Climbing is a killer on elbows an shoulders so try and as much pushing as possible.

Bench press is good for the elbow as it works the other side compared to climbing.
Deadlift again working the opposite way to climbing plus good core see Ukb for detail.
The other thing a lot of climbers do is the Bolton complex again refer Ukb

Also core work.
grubes - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:
Pretty fantastic week to say you were holding back
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grubes - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Well done on the E2 s sounds like a great sorry trip
Nomics4sale - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks, I think ;o). So, come on, what great ticks from Squamish?!?
Nick Russell on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to annak:

Looks like you had a great week on Lundy! I'm going next week, hoping to get on some of the stuff you did... How was the lichen on American Beauty?
Nick Russell on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Exile:

I'll add my voice to the antagonist training. I've just started to do press-ups and dips (only body weight) and realised how weak those motions are.

Time spent stretching could be well spent. I know opinions differ on this, but I generally feel better when I'm doing it regularly. From some reading recently, I gather that a lot of isometric loading (which climbing requires) causes (or at least allows) more shortening of muscles than con- or ec-centric loading.

I guess this kind of thing isn't so much directly beneficial to your climbing, as good for preventing injury. (But I do seem to have been spending more time resting various injuries than most on here, so what do I know?!)
pork pie girl - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Exile: i'vbe only had two short sessions at SS (one last weerk and one last year) so i haven't done enough there or got used to the style (often takes me a while to get used to somewhere) but from what i have done so far and from what a couple of my mates have said (who have climbed there a fair bit) they think the grades are hard.. suggesting add a grade on to many of the routes there.. so fa i would be inclined to agree
biscuit - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to everyone:

Cheers again guys. I'll be taking people up on offers of climbing for sure. Got a babysitter on tap as i am moving back in with my Mum. Not quite where i thought i'd be at nearly 40 but hey ho.

Thanks for all your kind thoughts. It's rough but i'm coming through it now and am back out in the real world again.

The 6 pack isn't worth a photo yet btw PPG ;-)
stevemarkperry - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

Thanks matey, really happy with it! Onwards and upwards and hoping to keep momentum with a planned day at Burbage with Stafford MC next Sunday – weather dependent. Not exactly Crib Goch but I'll be out on the ropes which is also good for me.

Moving house this past week so tried to fit in what I could here and there. Missed out on STGs as expected really but still only living around 30 mins away from them so still goals. Will try to find some goal problems at The Roaches now as it's closer to new home.


Goals:

Maintain 142 lbs: Not weighed this week

STG:
The Undercut (Churnet, 6C+/7A)
Old Sloper Problem (Churnet, 7A)
Bonus Goal: Alternative 3 SS (Churnet, pretty high roof finish, 6C)

Potential MTG (Jan 2014):
Lead WI4 in Rjukan (TBC)

VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetary Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life


This Week:

M: Nothing
T: 4x8 pullups (2 wide / 2 close grip)
W: A short but really good bouldering session at Wright's. Tried The Undercut but still slapping the final hold. I think I need to change my body position to make this stick. Felt stronger than previous sessions this evening generally, though, and got one move away from another 7A project. Feel like I'm getting my form back, woo! If I can keep going and remain un-injured then it might be a productive winter -- a little early to tell yet.
T: House move stuff
F:
S: Moving house
S: Bouldering at The Roaches, tried a session but felt exhausted from moving house this week so hardly climbed much. Nice to be out and it cleared my head.
Eagle River - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

Nice one annak, sounds like an ace trip. In my (limited) trad experience there is often very little difference between HVS and E1, I've been on e1s that felt like HS and HVS that felt like E2. Just need to know which ones are which!
Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes. I've had a quick look on Ukb for the Bolton complex but haven't turned anything up. Any chance you could post a link?
Eagle River - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

Thanks mbh, good focused training/obsessive grade chaser, it's all semantics really....

Goal: the ashes

Had two indoor route sessions this week, both went OK, felt very worthwhile in that I was battered afterwards. Went to Amsterdam on Thursday, got back this morning so no more climbing and caught a cold whilst over there but should get one evening session this week and hopefully a Kilnsey session this weekend.
Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks Nick - it was this sort of thing I was thinking of, just need to make sure I don't do too much and turn up to climb tired.
Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Thanks for that, it's what I was beginning to suspect. Good routes though!
grubes - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Exile: ERM just on my tablet about to head out.

Will search
grubes - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to grubes:
Here see sharks post http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=16911.0
Congrats all off again now
will post in a few weeks updating the blog though
mbh - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to Exile and nomics4sale:

I've just been out trying to squat and lean forward as I ran down some hills, to see if I could get some speed up and avoid that braking feeling. Erm ... I think I did. I didn't fall over, anyway. Thanks for the tips.
annak on 09 Sep 2013
Nick Russell - it was fine actually, it was more the greasy wet first pitch and the grassy top of the second that were more tricky :)

biscuit - I'm so sorry to hear that. Nothing more anyone can say apart from chin up and it will get better.
Sankey - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh: A week off from the Sideshow, as went to a wedding at the weekend. Hopefully keeping ticking over to be in shape for a go this coming one.

M:
T: Matrix - several F 6b's
W:
T: Pull ups etc.
F:
S: Matrix - short session, 1 new 6b
S: Walk 3.5 miles


STG: More 7a's (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): One more done: this years RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (3)

MTG: 7a+ Appetite/Direct Flight/Sideshow/Gilbert Cardigan

LTG: 7b WYSWIG - started working
Thickhead - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to IainRUK:
> (In reply to Thickhead) Good luck, never did it but a few mates did. Meant to be a classic race. I have the JFK50 miler next, road, appalachian trail, then a 26 mile along a canal and then road..


Are you doing Berlin?

It's certainly competitive to get a place in the Kepler. I was talking to someone in Queenstown and she was in the Internet when the ballot opened at 6.30am but didn't get in. She reckons the Internet there isn't fast enough compared to Auckland... Probably the South/North Island debate again!

My main problem is I'm restricted to roads until the end of October, then I'm being unleashed onto the S Island (moving to Dunedin).

Exile - on 09 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

I did say my description may well be useless! Just playing running down rugged terrain will help a lot. Forgot to ask, are you running in proper fell running shoes?
JimmyKay - on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

M-Bought some new trainers. Went for 4th run of the year. Managed one quick 1k sprint - 3:27. Felt hard though! Also bought a rolling pass at the bouldering wall. 2hr session.
T-Hill reps.
W-Bouldering ~90mins
T-Track session 5 x (fast 600 recovery fast 300 recovery)
F-2hours of football.
S-Ikea
S-2hour bouldering session.
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mbh - on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to Exile:
Your description wasn't useless at all, but as Biscuit once said about running up some hills, your advice to just run down rugged terrain again and again is about right, I guess. There are several places nearby where I can do that.

I have a pair of old Inov8 Roclites that I sometimes use off road, although more often I run in road shoes if the ground is going to be dry or hard. I got terribly painful shins at the end of only one leg (2) of the BGR in the Inov8s, on which the going had been on hard ground for the most part. I need new trail/fell shoes, but I need new road shoes even more.
Exile - on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

I can understand that on you BG attemt this Summer - I ran the Lakes 50 a few years ago in 'trail' shoes for the same reasons.

Having said that a low fell shoe with an agressive tread, (I like mud claws, but have mud rocks at the moment, what are the roclites like?) make a huge difference. The important thing is the fit though - if they are too wide, (as some inovates can be on me,) you loose any grip advantage through slopping around. Finding a well fitting fell shoe is more important than a with road shoes in my opinion.

Then just go and run down hills! For me the turning point came when I became confident enough to stop breaking on all but the steepest ground as you save so much more energy for the ups.
mbh - on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to Exile:

My Roclites are so old (5 years?) that I don't know what my experience has to say about the ones currently on offer. They are, or at least have become, sloppily wide though, even on my wide feet, and that certainly does not help.
Exile - on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

New well fitting shoes would have gained you at least three places in your race before you even start down hill training!

Ali - on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh: Cheers mbh! Bugger all to report from last week as the 12 hour days continued, however now in Kalymnos and it is AWESOME!!!!

But as Curious Yellow has informed me, I can't post anything about this week until Sunday... :o)
Joughton on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to biscuit: Manchester is a great place to live as a climber! I manage just fine... You've got three really good walls, as well as the Lanc quarries to the north and the peak to the east, and North Wales only a couple of hours away! It might not be Spain but its pretty good for England.
Ali - on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to biscuit: Not had time to read thread properly so only just seen this - really sorry to hear your news - sounds like you've been having a tough time recently and it must feel like life is a bit up in the air at the moment. I hope climbing is providing an escape and some relief from the stress.

On the plus side, I reckon Manchester is one of the best cities for climbing in the UK - it was when I was living there that I got really psyched for climbing and training. Loads of walls and, though there isn't so many decent crags right on your doorstep you can easily get to North Wales, the Peak, Lakes and Yorkshire for the day and weekends. Which part of Manchester will you be based in?

Take care, and hope things start to look up soon.
Luke Owens - on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

Cheers mbh, just more milage in a day I think!

M: Rest

T: Penmaen Head - Met up with some guy's I haven't seen in ages at the Clwyd MC meet. Flowstone Shuffle (6b+) warm-up. Retro-flashed The Gimp Crimp (7a) (couldn't remember any of it so felt good to get it first go) Charlotte's Goal (7a) 2nd go, buggered the on-sight by going off route. Finished with my hardest on-sight to 70 Degrees (6c+) a good 20m route which is massively run-out! Felt good to be solid on it at the end of a session.

W: Rest

T: Dinbren - Got back on "Fire" (7b) Warmed up doing some links on it. Had a redpoint and fell off after the crux with massive flash pump. Took a couple of goes to stick the crux start then felt fresher after the crux and managed to fight my way to the top. Haven't had to fight like that for awhile. All my static beta went out the window when I had to dyno for rest jug. Felt good! Finished off the session doing some good links on "Ice" (7b) to the right.

F: Traveling/Rest

S: Core -
30 Crunches with legs up
15 Side Raises (Both Sides)
20 Back Arches
15 Press Ups
20 Straight Leg Crunches
1 Min Side Star (Both Sides)
1 Min Dish
15 Press Ups
20 Back Arches
1 Min Dish

S: Rest/Family Holiday
Garrouli - on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:

Thanks!! Yeah, hopefully the indoor stamina sessions will pay off in Kalymnos.....

M: Rest
T: 4X4s on boulder problems at TCA. Good session, felt pretty wasted by the end of it
W: Rest
T: Stamina session at UCR
F: Core. Pull-ups on various holds on fingerboard, about 150ish to finish.
S: Rest
S: Was going to go sport climbing but the weather looked unsettled so went to Huntsham instead. Tried the Low Blow (F7B or probably f7c+) link again - took a while again to remember the moves on the Ames Low section - repeatedly fell off the move going into the flakes which was frustrating. Also tried the moves from the flake into the linkup of Golden Bicep which didn't feel that bad - the only move is the final big move to the jug which is pretty low percentage. I managed to hit it once in five goes which could prove frustrating! At least it will keep me entertained during the winter months.

Just over a week until Kalymnos now so going to start reducing the training intensity. Was hoping to get out to Cheddar this Friday and Sunday too but the weathers looking a bit shite at the moment!
AJM - on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to Garrouli:

I found yesterday a far higher % way of doing golden bicep - I had left on sloper, right on little undercut just right of the obvious pocket, left heel on, right foot in one of the pockets and then went into the finger jug with left rather than right, then crossed over with my right into the big jug. Far more reliable for me at least.
Nick Russell on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to AJM:
> If it's dry down south this weekend I'm likely to be off trying dreadnought

Great route, hope the weather's good for you! (I expect you'll cruise it.)
maria85 - on 12 Sep 2013
In reply to mbh:
Three week's worth of updates...

Won't bore you all with day-to-day stuff, but basically:

Week 1: In work. Did a few runs and suchlike, bike commutes. Nothing exciting. Weekend spent travelling.

Week 2: In Strasbourg Monday (40 minute run). Travelling Tues. Wed - Sun in Orco. 5 days of crack fun.
It went well, didn't get quite as much done as planned, partly due to pushing things back a couple of days due to crap weather (reports of hail stones the size of golf balls smashing car windows the day before we got there made us realise we'd made the right choice!), and partly due to forgetting just how hard the Orco grades are and getting consistently spanked! But still, we climbed:

Pesce d'Aprile - 5 pitches up to 5c including a lovely bridgy corner
Nautilus - 6 pitches up to 6a, though I was gutted to slip out of the final 6a narrow finger crack, so small I could only get up to the bottom of my fingernails in. Got it second go, a little sketchily!
Locatelli - another 6 pitches up to 6a, nice lower pitches but I had a total sketch fest on the 6a crux, the bolts had been chopped and the gear was terrible (lots of small stuff but I wouldn't have fallen on any of it) and weird insecure moves (not crack - felt more E2/3).
Diedro Nanchez - this is the 6 pitch classic 6b (E3 5c) on the Caporal. We went with basic aid gear not intending to climb the 6b free. First pitch was a couple of entertaining overhanging aid moves with your bum in a holly bush(!!) then 5c free. Next 6b pitch went half free and half aid, had great fun on my first proper aid (ie. not practising up some minging wet crack) around a roof. The following pitch was free 6a. At this point though we bailed as there were two other parties on the route, behind us and obviously getting annoyed with us moving slowly. I was pretty pissed off at them (e.g. I'm on a hanging belay at the top of P2 and their leader climbs before my second, meaning everything gets tangled and there's no space on the belay for him... just plain rude). Maybe I should have held my ground as we were there first, but in reality I wasn't having fun anymore because of them so we bailed. One to go back to as it's an excellent route... free next time?!
We also did several single pitch 5c-ish cracks, all brilliant, and some general dogging of things far too hard for us :)

Week 3: Monday was spent driving, Tues in Val di Mello. We did attempt to climb but it was just far far too hot to be on south facing slabs so bailed to eat ice cream and sort out kit out.
Wed - Fri: Piz Badile :-) Walked in to the Sasc Fura hut and bivied before climbing the N Ridge. Brilliant! Descended to the Gianetti where we stayed the night, then walked back the next day. Would not recommend the walk back to anyone, it was hideous!
Sat/Sun: Back to Strasbourg for more chill time then back home, arrived early Mon morning.

So an awesome trip, with some decent chill-out time too which was much needed. Ticked a good few of my goals, not the 6b crack though which was very wishful thinking!! Got in most of the classic multipitches we were hoping for, some aiding, some alpine... it just wasn't long enough to get everything done! It's definitely reinforced that we want to go and do an extended van trip at some point and spend more time in all these cool places. Also, next time I go to Orco, I need to be stronger! The climbing is just so thuggy there, I was aching like hell after 2 routes...

Now having a bit of post-holiday blues (since when did it get so cold?) and a serious lack of motivation this week, plus a return to wheeziness :( Am going to need some FC motivation over the next few weeks I think. I have a wish to train harder and achieve more, open up new possibilities... but a complete lack of actual psyche right at this moment.

This week's only goal is the Mary Towneley loop this weekend, and to do at least one run. Seeing as it's already Thursday and I'm sniffling with the start of a cold it's going to be a low achievement week. Drawing up a decent training plan for the next few months is high on the agenda also, but I'm struggling with where to start. Any good online articles on phasing training for beginners?? Both climbing and running related.
maria85 - on 12 Sep 2013
In reply to biscuit: Not read most of the thread but did see this.... chin up bud and I hope it all works out for you. Give us a shout if you're wanting to get out around the area - my family is in Preston so the lancs quarries are relatively handy to combine with a visit home, which seems to be happening quite a lot atm. Not quite sunny Spain, but still...
biscuit - on 12 Sep 2013
In reply to maria85: cheers I will do. I should be back just in time for dark nights and rain but aiming to grab any sun breaks I can.

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