/ UKC Fit Club Week 341
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (340) thread:
The week just gone, in summary
Thickhead - not a bad week really - a long run, a race and over 50 miles at a decent pace. And a birthday too. Happy returns!
Si dH - gets granite climbing in between showers during what seems like a very pleasant holiday. Some really helpful, thoughtful advice for Nick, too. One 7b+ to complete the pyramid.
mbh - see what a lazy Monday followed by a lazy Tuesday do to the rest of your week?
Joughton - works on endurance with some high volume indoor training.
Eagle River - Good try on the Loja 7c
IainRUK - tapering, at speed. Big day today? Good luck with it.
mattrm - tries and recommends sea kayaking.
AJM - nearing vicarious completion of a PhD. Meanwhile, a great account of some sterling efforts at Huntsham, Avon and Cheddar, and a slithery south coast end to the week.
Luke Owens- smashes Face Race first go - well done! - and reports huge improvements on the fingerboard. Things going well in Owens land.
annak - laps up the birthday cake (you're welcome) and joyously reports new guise as well-hard HVS leader, taking falls as they come. Really good efforts.
Exile - a typically varied week of weights, cycling and mystery 7a bridge traverses alongside some climbing. Looking at your goals for the year and your actual progress so far, you've done really well.
JimmyKay - last week Si was typing his report while looking out elegiacally out at the rain, now you're doing it feeling all broken, after a week of niggles and torch lit bouldering triumphs - great going on that btw . Maybe try some easier, slower running while the niggles persist, as a way of resting the legs? And the roller, something I keep thinking I ought to do.
pork pie girl - is very hard on herself, as usual. Does anyone deserve toast, steak and scones more than ppg? Your reports are always a great motivator.
Sankey - four goes at Sticky Wicket and a Font 6c tick. SW will surely go before long
Nomics4sale - 7a (almost), 7a (so, so close...), 7a (got it!) and then packs in 30 miles of running and 1700m or more of ascent. Awesome week, gets you equal top banana billing on the poster.
Ally Smith - Inspired by Cav, gets some fast cycling in after a difficult week that included special dancing therapy for a bad ankle. Reports that it doesn't help.
needkraken - on the up again, indoors and out. Well done.
stevemarkperry - some great sessions, indoors and out and exploring the new trains on his MTB.
biscuit - that 7c again. One of you will get it. Good try anyway.
useful - some great ddt there, bringing back memories.
maria85 - Not a sluggish week by any means. Good luck with the Rab and hope you do get the better of the wheeziness. Eek indeed, re the carpet. That should help, surely?
leon - you did the 6b in the end and still did got 4 sessions into the week. Less of the self disgust please, and et's hear how you get on at Gogarth.
Kevster - do we have time, do we wish to know? Yes we do!. More fitclub epics in the south coast mizzle.
Ali - fantastic week with excellent progress, ending with a race, to boot. The GR20 was as you describe your holiday - doing stuff in the morning, chill in the afternoon. Lovely.
Nick Russell - has a good week's climbing on Lundy and suggests new MA addition to the grading system. At least Si and Ali were able to offer informed responses to your achilles query.
grubes - Squamish adventures (we really had no idea you were heading that way)- well done on topping out the Chief, all 19 pitches plus of it.
And that's it for this week, I think, in which training methods were extended to include cat sitting, special dancing, cricket balls, vacuuming, trading, falling off, honey coated dough balls and waiting until darkness falls, because climbing in the light is too easy..
Well done all, you're a bit hard on yourselves, some of you, but all inspiring .
If anyone wants to go to font at halfterm, we've got one space in the car (Fri 25th Oct-Sat 2nd Nov)
I am done for the day so I will post now.
M - 7.4 miles run, road and trail
T - nothing
W - 11.1 mies run, coast path and woods
T - 10.8 miles run, coast path, road and several dogs.
F - 10.6 miles run, coast path - and got myself to 3/15 on a Strava segment that comes up 7 miles into this run. Another 10 s off and I'll get 2nd spot. Top needs 30 s off.
S - 10.9 miles run, not very hilly, 1.8 km swimming.
S - 13.4 miles run, hilly road then 5 miles of flat trail which I did at 7:39 pace overall. Really pleased with that, at the end of a 13 mile run, at the end of a 64 mile week, at the end of a 260 mile month. I feel as though I am getting somewhere.
64.3 miles running, 1660 m ascent, with more fast (for me) running than in recent weeks although still a bit samey, 1.8 km swimming.
2240 miles and 46.6 km ascent for the last 12 months, 50 mpw average stretches back 30 weeks.
STG (End of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Adventerous climbing on the isle of man in october
MTG (April 2014):
Winter Grit - 7A boulder
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man
Next week's goals:
Fly home - Tick
Climb on grit - Tick
Climb a trad route - Tick!!!
M: Travel to air port
T: land in uk.
Holmfirth bouldering less than 2 hours from getting home. Nice session repeating problems to 6A
W: Rest (first day back at work)
S: Chew Valley challenge.
Me and a friend entered. Goal to get as many points in 8 hours. Points were awarded for visiting as many land marks or crags you can or climbing as many routes. We decided to try and visit every crag.
Started by walking from Dovestones carpark to alderman. Alex lead a 2 pitch VS. Next we walked across the moors to Upperwood where I tried to lead a HVS but slipped off early reversed cleaning gear and lead a S instead as we wanted to keep moving.
Next walked up the road and across the moors to standing stones (via the sugarloaf). Touched the crag then walked down the valley and back up to Ravenstones Alex lead a 2 pitch HVS. Next we walked across to dovestones edge where I lead a HS.
We continued across the moors to duckstones visiting two more land marks. We touched the crag then continued to charnel stones where Alex lead a VS.
Moor walking across the moors we arrived at robs rock I lead a VS.
We then dropped down the valley where Alex lead wilderness gully left (M) we did this moving together with me collecting gear as I followed.
From here we walked across the moors to wimberry to touch the crag. Alex spoke to some one about to try appointment with fear (E7) We were going to stay and watch but conscious of time we walked down the hill to the car park.
We walked approx 9.1 miles total 740m of ascent (http://www.huddersfieldmountaineering.com/forum/uploads/RimJobRoute.jpg ) visited 10 crags and climbed 7 routes (3 of which were multipitch) at 7 crags. We visited several land marks. Time taken 7hours 50mins (8 hours time limit). Total points 291.
For those not wanting to read all the text we won even beating Andi Turner who did a load of E grade routes.
S: Brief holmfirth session legs really tired. BBQ later.
Next week Goals:
At least 1 wall session
Great first week back. Can not believe I won yesterday I don't feel like a winner but it was a great day out
Tuesday - Avon.
Did Pink Wall Direct E2 to warm up, led the 5b pitch which was probably hard e1, more of a battle than I had expected. Seconded the 5c crux, though it's a traverse so the difference is minimal. Tricky and unobvious.
Then it was time to man up and get on Peryl. First pitch is the E4 pitch, with a sustained section leading to crux moves to get up to a rest, followed by a hard traverse after that to reach the belay. Lots of pegs and not massive amounts else. Nearly came off the crux, up and downed a load trying to make the reach, then in desperation grabbed at something a bit lower and found it was a good edge. Saved! Had a good rest, nearly came off the traverse as well but held it together to reach the belay. My second declined to lead pitch 2, which is probably E3, so I got that as well. Some seriously balancey slopey stuff led to a good rest, then an udgy groove and a dramatic finale. Very chuffed and very worked - an E1, E3 and E4 pitch In a day, E4 number 4 in the bag.
Wednesday - Avon. Tired as had been helping Ali through an all nighter to get the PhD done. Swung leads on Clan Union a soft E1 traverse (I led the easy pitch) and led Earl of Perth/Oblivion which is an excellent E2 pitch. Belayed my partner on GT Special which is one for next time.
Thursday - rained off ban y gor
Friday - handin day! We went plastic pulling to celebrate. Good fun did lots of stuff quickly off their V3/4 circuits amd 1-2 from the v4-5 circuit including some impromptu kneebar action. Nothing mega hard though.
Saturday - lie in and laziness
Sunday - pass bouldering. Displayed my usual inconsistency at it - did a bunch of stuff to about V3/4 but had total failures on heel hook traverse v4 and the edge problem v5. Still, if you can find a weakness this severe then by working it gains should be attainable.
Pleased with Peryl, very pleased. 2 hard pitches makes it a bigger outing than my other E4 leads. Up to 4 now! V6 short boulder problem still feels miles away - I'm sure I could do the right one but I never seem to be able to find it!
sound work there on the trad Andy, e5 cant be far off?
Goals: Ashes (if still dry), find something at malham for the winter.
Only got out once last week, at Loja again with biscuit. Hilariously poor attempt at a 7a onsight/flash. Got it 2nd go. Did a couple of 6cs and wasted a lot of time on what Rockfax says is a 3* 7b. No one who went anywhere near that guide book has touched that route. Dusty, awkward, line went away from where the guide said it was and the belay was miles off to one side. frustrating.
Never mind, back to the typical winter pattern of climbing indoors midweek and crossing fingers for the weekend weather.
We shall see. I've felt quite near my limit on all the E4s I've done or tried, and have fallen off seconding hard E4s and all the E5s I've tried to second. I've all but run out of excuses not to try central wall and main wall eliminate the next times I'm on main wall - I suspect those will be a test of how far away E5 is...
That was my mate on appointment with fear. I was the guy in the red down jacket. Sounds like you had a good day - fantastic weather for it. He didn't do it in the end by the way - went up and placed the gear but decided to bail up Route 1 as the wind had come round and made it blustery on crux slab.
Will do my report a bit later.
Not a great week, mainly work and then laid up! Bleugh.
Maintain 142 lbs: ~143 lbs
Current Focus: Climb every problem at the Very Far Skyline Boulders (The Roaches). Aim: To improve my head on high-ish grit slabs and crack-lines and to improve my slab and crack technique.
The Undercut (Churnet, 6C+/7A)
Old Sloper Problem (Churnet, 7A)
Bonus Goal: Alternative 3 SS (Churnet, pretty high roof finish, 6C)
MTG (early 2014):
Lead any WI route in Rjukan (Jan)
Improve winter experience
Get out to the Alps
Dream of White Horses
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life
S: Tried a session but just managed a couple of problems, feeling weak and tired.
S: Woke up feeling laid up, dammit. Tried a session at Ramshaw but didn't even manage to get my shoes on. Eyes bigger than belly.
The Chew Valley Challenge: is that this?
with "handicaps to challenge the unreasonably talented"
It sounds great. Well done on winning it.
Well done with your mileage/gains, and thanks. Last week was just frustrating that my knee flared up when getting back into a good/steady routine. Half way through last Sunday's run it was almost as if it "clicked" back into place and I ran normally again. So this week was quite good.
M: 8.5mile run up Mt Eden 7:10pace
T: 4.5mile run with 3 at 6:00pace
W: 12.5mile run with first 10 at 7:00 pace then 2.5mile cool down
T: 5mile run up Mt Eden 7:30pace
F: 7.5mile run up Mt Albert 7:20pace
S: 8.5mile run up Mt Eden 7:10pace
S: 15mile run 7:00pace
Assuming I get out on Monday September will be my best calendar month for nearly 3years, or since my son was born. Good stuff.
Effort on the E4.
Onsighting E4 and then failing to tick V4 is just silly, you obviously have a big mental block!
m: 10 miles steady
t: am: 6.5 miles. pm: 9 miles with 6 x 800m reps.
w: hip very sore.. other hip now tight. 7 miles steady
t: 8 mmiles steady
f: am: 6 miles. pm: treadmill. 4.5 miles with efforts at marathon pace but hip really straining so opted to miss berlin
s: 5.2 miles steady, actual sharp pain now gone
s: 7 mile steady to do later
MTG: 4(3) e-points in September.
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(33 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Sat: Stanage Plantation.
Thanks mbh, even worse this week, every day I either climbed or went out drinking (mostly the later) hence absolutely no training this week.
Gogarth didn't turn out the way I expected. I expected to be climbing Resolution Direct in the baking sun. As we headed down to the main cliff we were confronted by a wall of fog stretching out across the sea to the horizon. I figured it would lift by the time we got on the route, it didn't, we spent the whole day climbing in thick fog which I actually quite liked (glad I took a belay jacket though). We got to the route to find I hadn't brought a topo. The description said take the continuation crack in the arete, I tried to go up a crack in the wall that was greasy & felt really awkward to get into. I then decided to go up Gogarth & traverse in to the crack in the arete. Found myself facing a deck-out with no gear to protect the traverse. Decided to do Gogarth instead & was quite happy when I did the maths & realized Fab got the top pitch ;) All in it was a good, spooky day out in the fog but a shame not to get a new route in.
Plantation was good. After a week on the booze I wanted to have an easy day in the sun. Spent the morning bouldering & finding out my technique on hard (uk 6a/6b) moves has gone to pot but still able to work it eventually, then spent the afternoon on easy routes enjoying the sun. Great!
Cheers mbh. Good week this week.
Goals for 2013:
Grit: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 7 E2s, 4 E3s) (excluding snowballing!)
Peak lime: 8-10 E3s in 2013 (so far 6 E3s)
Elsewhere: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 4 E2s, 2 E3s)
Total of 73 E-points so far this year, 81 if I include a couple of the higher graded high-balls I've done. Would like to get to 100 this year (have already reached 99 if I include snowballs, but that is definitely cheating.)
Sport: Complete base of 7c+ pyramid (needed 3 x 7b, 3 x 7b+, 1 x 7c): so far - Obscene Toilet 7c, Brachiation Dance 7b+, Indecent Exposure 7b+, Tin Of 7b Sticky Wicket 7b and Ground Effect 7b. Just one 7b+ to go.
M: Bouldering at Alter Rock - mainly traversing for PE training. Did an easy one to warm up (probably 6b as a route grade?) then worked the harder one for a while, and by the end of the session had done it in two overlapping links several times, but it has a feet-off swing-y move right near the end that I didn't manage to stick when tired. Probably about 7a+ in route terms.
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Warmed up then did the traverse first go. Then some other bloke came and pointed out that I'd completely eliminated the best hold in the middle of the first 'crux', which also allows a good shake-out! The tag had come off it before I had first tried it, so I thought it was a different problem. Anyway, I was happy with my harder version :) Then went on to boulder problems. Good session - ticked several in 1-2 goes that other people there were struggling on (they don't grade the new problems properly any more until they have been up for a week, just putting them in difficulty order from 1 upwards, so the best way of judging absolutely difficulty is comparing myself against other 'regulars'). Good session.
T: Rest - work put paid to planned wall session
F: Routes at Alter Rock. First indoor routes for a few months - not a bad session, onsighted a 7a+ but it was over-graded, also onsighted a 6c and a couple of 6c+s, but fell off a 7a and another 7a+ that were both quite a bit harder. Didn't bother trying to work them, I might do if I find myself doing routes there again soon.
S: Wimberry. Really good day - onsighted Charm E3 5c, Blasphemy E2 5c and Pinball Wizard E1 5c (gets E2 on ukc/rockfax but I think tough E1 is fair - it's much easier than Blasphemy, although I can see why someone just breaking in to E1 would probably get spanked by the crux). In between belayed Neil on Appointment with Fear all day. Such an amazing route. I thought Charm and Blasphemy were both brilliant - well worth the walk up. Both had surprising and interesting moves at the crux. The crux on Charm was a move higher than I'd hoped/expected - I've never been stood on two grit pebbles with both feet 1-2m above my gear before! Not much in difficulty between the two of them but Charm was just a bit bolder.
S: Bouldering. Went to plantation first, did some warm-ups and then retro-flashed AB top and did Business Launch first go as soon as I remembered the right hands to use. These are both powerful 1/2 move Ft6bs, I like to use them as measures of how I'm climbing each time I go bouldering there (flash = I'm climbing well). The power was there which bodes well for the winter's bouldering. Unfortunately, after that the sun came out and roasted us so we went to burbage west instead. Had a brief go on The Nose (Ft7a) but it needed a really bunched/powerful toe hook if you're short, and a really long reach if you're not...I couldn't do either, so it's clearly heightist against people who are 5ft11 with short arms! I'll find a better excuse if I think hard enough I'm sure. Then went to try Breakfast, which I've been on before. Conditions were marginal at first but improved by late afternoon. I got quite close (for those who know it, I just managed to get my right foot up on the crimp near the arete, but not keep pulling hard enough to weight it and go for the top.) But by then skin was too thin and starting to weep. It really should go if I get there fresh in good conditions - it's been a bit of a nemesis so it would be nice to tick it.
Got a good amount of training and climbing done this week, and pleased with Wimberry, felt like I was climbing fairly fluidly and well. If I gave myself E2 for Pinball Wizard that would be my grit target done fo the year, but I'm doing that as I still need a reason to get on The Rasp! :)
Wish I had ticked Breakfast but it's not going anywhere.
Was it boggy underneath Andy? That sometimes puts me off the HH trav. However I still reckon someone of your strength and technique would cruise that problem! More than capable of it. Are you sure you weren't accidently on Ultimate Retro Party?
Edge problem is marmite boulder. I flashed it and have never fallen off it after loads of repeats. Some people just find it nails. Weird. It's a problem for steely small fingered people for sure.
Yup that's it
You looked frozen. Awesome tick list charm was in the back of my mind as a route to try. Have stood underneath it a couple of times but not gone for it
By that time I had finished all my climbing and was just well wrapped up contemplating the forthcoming belay, so wasn't a problem :) It was cold early on though, fingers went numb half way up charm and I had to stand around warming one at a time, fortunately it's all in balance!
I'd be to recommend blasphemy first though, it's a bit safer!
Were you or your mate the guy in shorts?
be inclined to*
Thanks mbh. Still loving the stats.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 4lbs - 1lbs loss
M - 1h bouldering @ wall
T - Core
W - Rest
T - Fingerboarding
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Trad @ Gower - 1 VS lead
Good week all in. Still rather heavy. Good diet progress. Seconded a VS and a HVS got a good VS lead in. Decent bouldering session on Monday. Really nice day on the Gower on Sunday.
Definitely in the right place and not too boggy. I'm just shit at heel hook traverses! Made progress with it but frustrating progress, never felt like I was progressing because I was climbing better just that I was climbing a bad sequence more fluidly if that makes sense.
In reply to Si dH:
Since when have my sort of E4s (stamina plod Fr6cs or whatever with no hard moves) had heel hook traverse sequences like that on them? Never, is the answer. It still mystifies me how trad climbers who are moderately fit but also boulder strong for sequences like that don't just walk up mid E grade trad.
Thanks, it was a good holiday! Back to the norm now, including freshers' flu (you'd think I'd be over that by now, starting my 8th year as a student...).
M - Lundy, penultimate day. Did American Beauty (soft HVS but big on atmosphere) and a few short routes on Beaufort Buttress. For those of you going to Lundy, that's a good sunny, non-committing, non-tidal venue with focus on S-VS range.
T - Lundy, last day. Heavy fog overnight left everything dripping, but we swam up a VS crack anyway. Sailed back in the evening
W - Nothing
T - Swimming, 2.5km
F - Nothing (distracted by audition for uni orchestra)
S/S - Nothing, freshers' flu
So I haven't exactly got straight back into the training after Lundy, hopefully I can pick it up again this coming week. Got a physio appointment (probably the last) on Tuesday, pretty optimistic. I'm going to go to trials for uni swimming on Tuesday too. Not sure if I want the time commitment of training with them, but I won't have the choice if I don't go (and may not get it even if I do!). The main outcome I want is a time in something meaningful (100m freestyle, preferably) as a benchmark to work from.
Short- and mid-term goals suspended pending Achilles recovery, see week 338. Feeling much improved but still not perfect.
Long term goals (timescale to be assessed when the achilles recovers)
Climbing: Consolidate E3, it still feels on/off. Get into routinely trying E4s. Sport onsight 7a/+, redpoint 7b+. See my ukc wishlist for specific routes that have caught my eye...
Running: Get enough running fitness/experience for a marathon(+). Try some fell running.
You should be, good effort! I'd better man up some time soon and start trying some of these harder Avon routes.
If there's any decent weather this week (not looking promising at the moment) I'd be up for going out. I actually have a car at the moment (for 2-3 weeks anyway) so Cheddar and Wye are also an option.
Not much done this week, partly resting and mainly working!
M - nothing
T - nothing
w - run to work, 5ish miles
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - 60min run, 6.5 miles
S - Cycled to and back from Biscuit Factory, lots of new problems to try! Didn't do anything hard, but had a good, fun session. Some core to finish.
Think I've worked out a new, mainly off-road cycle route to work so will try that out this week. Wrist held up to cycling (no more excuses now!) and bouldering ok with tape, so don't think I damaged it too much in Kaly. Need to work on making them stronger so I can reduce taping.
Nick - not looking mega promising is it! Yeah if it clears up I might be around. Be nice to meet up.
Cheers mbh. Great write ups.
Fail day on thurs with ER. Failed on 2x6c onsights failed on 7a onsight and couldn't be arsed trying it properly. Not failed on 6c onsight since ? One of those days really. Best to put it down to a bad day and move on.
Went to mijas today and was much better. 3 goes on a tricky 7a+ but didn't get it. Just one move to a pocket and I kept hitting the bad bit of it.
Saved a bit to try the 7a I failed on the onsight the other week. Mate totally steered me away from that and back to my nemesis Metecana. Not been on it for a long while. Manned up and got straight back on the lead. Fell off at the same point as last time. BUT found a new hold. Turns out the intermediate on the crux wasn't that shitty sloper I've been using but a good, though hard to hit, pocket. One more go and failed at same point BUT found another new hold. Turns out when people said use the thin tufa they meant the good pocket hidden in the back of the tufa. Translation issues.
So back for another go next week hopefully. Happy to find out it's reckoned to be a hard 7a+ rather than 7a as it's now taken me 6 or 7 goes.
Mon - nothing
Tue - nothing
Wed - Rockover, good session. Flashed a few more of the V5-7 circuit, pleased! Also got a comp wall V7 second go which is a first.
Thurs - rest
Fri - lazy!
Sat - Newcaslte Open day. Quite liked it, not much climbing but I'm much more likely to get in than some other Medical Schools so I'll be applying.
Sun - Mum kindly belayed me for a session at The Tor. Unfortunately I wasn't climbing well enough to make the most of it! Definitely feeling the benefits of the bouldering as I could make all the moves fairly easily, but the idea of linking the whole thing together feels impossible! Which isn't how it usually goes for me, I normally get shut down by hard moves instead. Just need to combine this power with some fitness.
So I'm applying to Sheffield, Exeter, Glasgow and Newcastle Medical Schools and Bristol Biochemistry, and I think it's my final decision. Ideally I'd end up at either of the first two but there both pretty competitive so we'll see how it goes!
Cheers mbh, you're a star.
STG: Langdale fell race mid Oct
MTG: 7a or 7b in Spain in November
LTG: E2s next summer, look at E3, hard (for me) sport RP
Tues: 8.5 mile slow club run Pendle Hill, 330m ascent
Weds: 4.4 mile flat local trail run
Thurs: Kilnsey, TR Frankie Comes to Kilnsey. Belayed my mate who ticked The Ashes having being on it off and on all summer. Awesome!
Fri: 9.8 mile trail run Pendle Hill, 350m ascent
Sat: Curbar, led o/s Grooved Arete (VS 4c) and Maupassant (HVS 5a) and 2nded HS x 1, VS x 2 and HVS (Green Crack, brilliant route).
Sun: 15.7 mile trail run, Froggatt to Chatsworth and back, 411m ascent
I decided to enter the Langdale fell race despite not really feeling fit enough for it. My plan is to do as many hilly miles as possible this week and then rest next week. I'm very intimidated by the race and would be really chuffed if I can get round without getting timed out. Not sure how it will go.
Frankie feels hard. It's going to be a prolonged battle and I'm not sure I'll be able to get it done before it gets too cold and/or wet at Kilnsey.
> Frankie feels hard. It's going to be a prolonged battle and I'm not sure I'll be able to get it done before it gets too cold and/or wet at Kilnsey.
Have some confidence! You always say this when you first start a route. Good luck!
Been a pretty much none week for me as I've spent quite a bit of it travelling and then celebrating my birthday, but I have bought a pull up bar for extra training at home =)
STG (next 4 weeks): New STG time; make a training plan for font, regularly get V3/4 indoors, try and get back into trad, get outdoors when I can. Most importantly try and keep up 3 sessions a week while my regular partners away
- last week of this, kept it up I think, slightly regaining confidence
New STG (oct): not let new freshers interefere with training too much, grab some outdoor sessions when possible, get on ropes more indoor and manage to do a pull-up!
MTG (before winter): 6a bouldering regularly, keep leading trad (been over a month now so back to VDiff's) get on some sport and train hard when indoors, get in shape for font!
LTG (over next 6/9 months): get to know my technique and style, push through to HS trad, try and boulder 6b get on some sport
T: lots of indian food when Grubes got back
W: long indoor session, showing a keen new fresher around and doing quite a bit of bouldering
T: packing and cleaning the house enough for people to come over
F: train down to Bristol, lots of wine with groom and best man
S: old coursemates wedding, lovely day lots of wine
S: train back up north, bbq for my birthday (yay) more alcohol and food =p
Fun week, little training...oops :p
last week went .. lots of climbing, no bike rides outside as climbing ate in to most of my free time but good indoor training sessions on the bike which has put me back on track in terms of pace. it was also nice to not be sick in my mouth on a sunday morning this week
sunday (last week) bike rides x2 (one hilly and intense the second socialable and flat)
monday- rest day
tuesday- interval training on bike in gym (felt good), bouldering for 45 mins for endurance.. just traversing and climbing up and down on steep stuff. core and weights including usual pull ups the stretching
wednesday- lunch time PE bouldering.. seeing improvements. pm interval training on bike in gym (again a great session) core and stretching
thursday- malham.. warm up on the usual polished consenting then BB.. led bits, linked quite a bit.. had four goes and felt knacked afterwards. friday-malham again.. just TR'd BB.. absolutely wasted from probably doing too much climbing this week.. but consistent on the crux section. pm step ups on the settee before a late tea... not right in the head but couldn't cope with not doing any carido.
saturday- gym.. interval training on bike (felt strong again) core then weights and usual pull ups.. shoudlers and elbows and lower bicep on right arm felt 'well used' from this week's climbing . hmmm.
sunday (yesterday) .. dib scar . . terrible start (i can't stand climbing in dark cold damp places.. it was a sunny day so we went to a crag that was in the shade pretty much all day... which is fine if it's scorching weather.. but it wasn't. humpht!!! i've been before in the rain and had a rubbish day there .. but went with what the majority wanted to do.. ended up being close to onsighting a 7a+ that was just great.. good rock and only damp near the bottom.. moves felt enjoyable and my head felt good..just lacking quick decision making with onsighting still. pm turbo in garage whilst lasagne cooked.
aims this week if it's not busy at malham to flipping well clip the bolt on the crux of BB off the flat hold.. if i don't make myself do this i'm not going to be able to do this route.. truth is i should be at least bolt to bolting ALL if this route now and i'm not putting enough time into leading some sections.. often because other people are there and i feel a bit stupid if i feel a bit nervous.. as it often means i'm fairly vocal! no one else seems to fuss and faff anywhere near as much as me. i'm just going to have to be really focussed and do my own thing *puffs chest out*.. (but i'm frightened and a bit intimidated by the grade) *looks down at feet*
shut up eagle river! ;o)
you won't get timed out .. you're fit enough, make sure you rest enough before hand (like you have planned) and take keep yourself fueled up enough on the day (make sure you have a good pooh on before the race too because you know what you can be like ;o)
thing is about frankie is that you have said before that you like it .. you are capable of climbing hard routes.. break it down into manageable chunks and grind the f*cker down.
T: Dinbren - Did "Ice" (F7b) 2nd redpoint of the evening, a real fight against the pump! Another anti-style steep route tick, psyched! (Although Ally wouldn't call it steep!)
W: Lunch: 3km run in 14 mins
Evening: Feet-on Fingerboarding: 8 x (2 mins on 2 mins rest)
T: Lunch: 3km run in 15 mins
Evening: Aerocap - 30 mins
S: Pen Trwyn - Put the clips in on the classic Axle Attack (F7a+), did all the moves but didn't find the crux the most tricky part!
Had a working lead go and did it with a few rests and refined beta.
1st redpoint fell off just before the crux, 2nd redpoint fell off the crux going for the mono and re-tweaked an A2 pully on my left hand on an awkward crimp. Got back on and climbed to the top.
Getting very pumped on a non-steep route again, solidifies my need for endurance training this winter!
A great Dinbren classic tick and some good training this week but I should of done Axle Attack!
Also started working Just another Dead End job, which I kind of have a sequence for.
M: Foundry - first time in ages, as usual jump from level 1 to level 2 problems feels big!
S: Malham: Rose Coronary + working Dead end job
S: Walked 4 miles
STG: More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (4) 7a+(1)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling
VLTG (Sept 2014): Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
LTG (Spring 2013): Unjustified, 8c, Malham & Fish-Eye, 8c, Oliana?
MTG (By end Sept 2013): Summary...
Get super fit for trip to the Red River Gorge:
- Complete 4x4 of >7b routes on steepness at Awesome Walls, Liverpool Fail - didn't tie on once indoors. Oops.
- Complete double set of Beastmaker pull-up routine with >5kg on each hold Fail - didn't stick with the finger borarding. Oops.
- Complete double set of Beastmaker repeater routine with >5kg on each hold hold Fail - as above.
- Complete 10 sets of 3min on, 3min off foot-on campus routine Fail - as above.
Diamond projects: Re-assessment of grades
#1 >8b Direct start to NGOOTB Fail - couldn't do the starting move and didn't want to try it lots as it's a very tweaky move just before going away.
#2 ~8b Link-up Fail - only dogged it once
Non-tidal wish-list for weeks when Diamond is a non-starter:
New link-up, Devil's Gorge. Tick x2 Born Slippy 7c+ and Cerberus, 8a FA's
K3, Cornice Failed to get back on any of these
- Ankle re-hab & physio Tick x2 Less fecked than before, even tried some highballs
- Aero-cap - 4x4 on a steep 7b is this week's target Fail
- Once a week foot-on campus session to ensure high intensity pump - aiming for 10 sets Fail
- Core & flexibility work - fitted into rest interval in Fingerboard/foot-on campus session Fail
- Lose some weight; new aim <73kg Fail 75.1kg and 6.6% BF
The week just gone - a massive amount of failing owing to shitty cold hitting me at just the wrong time before going away:
M - Rest
T - Dinbren. Settled on doing some volume instead of trying hard as it was too hot to pull on little crimps on El Rincon. 6b,6b+ warm-ups, 7b retroflash, 7b OS, 7b+ dog, 7b+ redpoint. Mod chimney for shits and giggles :-)
W - Sore-throat this morning - should have known not to push it later on - Hangar - 5 reps of 40move circuits in the cave - totally overheating sweaty mess. Bunch of Red circuit (V4-6) after rehydrating.
T - Lurgy
F - Lurgy - leaking badly
S - Lurgified, but didn't want to back-out of Orme session. 6c/7a+ warm-up, 7a+ retroflash, "8a" dog, "8a" redpoint (Soft 7c+? with lanky and cunning heeltoe beta) 7a+ OS (now feeling rough again) 7a+ dog. Over did it - leaking heavily again.
S - Lazy day - spent £20 in Boots on various cold & flu remedies, then went to Harmers Wood once the day nurse capsules kicked in - vert bouldering to 7A+. Lots of new stuff done which isn't normally dry, including scary highball arete at the back.
Met friends new arrival in evening - 2week old babies are very cute, but wouldn't want one myself! ;-)
This week is going to be mostly cold recovery (convinced myself it's actually "tapering" for the trip), final work rush, packing, re-packing and travelling to Kentucky. Red River Gorge here I come!
Double Decker Taco?! I wasn't certain which interpretation you meant! ;)
This week: Only one climb evening
Tuesday: outside and Trad at Pot Hole Quarry.
* Led Murren HS 4c http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=25783
* Seconded Cristallo VS 4c http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=145259
Then it was dark!
So we set up a top rope. Climbing in the dark is amazing - everything is suddenly much closer!! :D
* Climbed The Dog HVS 5b, in better style than my first lead of this because I found a couple of extra crimps thanks to the torchlight http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=25772
* DNF Ceba E1 5b http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=25774 made it up to the roof but didn't fancy the reachy move. Some good beta for my next E1 lead!
Thursday: A short (45min) exploratory run around the lanes and woods above Llanfairfechan.
Saturday: A long Quality Mountain Day: 14km, 1400m ascent, 5.5 hour hike around the south side of Snowdonia, starting from Rhyd Ddu, taking in Y Garn, the Watkin Path and the Summit of Snowdon.
Not long until the Boardroom opens near Chester! :)
> Double Decker Taco?! I wasn't certain which interpretation you meant! ;)
> (make sure you have a good pooh on before the race too because you know what you can be like ;o)
Cheers re frankie and the race. Will try.
And grubes: Nice one coming first! Sounds like an awesome day :o). And cheers for that re Frankie, you're right, hard routes feel hard. Breaking it down is what red pointing is all about. It is a hard route tho (did I say that already??).
Psyche was back last week :-) I also drew up a pretty good training plan to see me through the winter, loosely based on Neil Gresham's series currently running in Rock & Ice: http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/building-a-better-climber-part-one
Got started on this last week, though not in full swing as I picked up a random finger tweak. Feel like I'm finally beating the wheeziness. Running hill reps has been better than jogging, extreme vacuuming is ongoing, and I now have a brown inhaler as well and a follow-up with the asthma nurse in a couple of weeks. As much as I hate to have to take meds to beat it, it was getting ridiculous otherwise. Hopefully I won't have to keep taking the brown one for too long.
Bike commutes every day
M: Lunchtime hill reps - 5 min warm up, 1min up/1min down x 5, jog back. Felt good.
T: Climbing Barn. 4x each colour set up to green (V3-4ish) then back down through the grades. Felt a bit of a tweak in my finger from the start (not sure what from) but kept going which was possibly a little silly as it was really sore the next day and I can still feel it a bit now.
W: Core & pull ups.
T: Lunchtime hill reps, same as Monday.
S: Rab MM: 5hrs 40 out, roughly 1350m ascent and maybe 25ish km? Partner had a cold which slowed us down considerably, I felt pretty strong.
S: Rab MM: 4hrs 59 out - made it back with 9 seconds to spare and a sprint finish! 1750m ascent. Hurt a lot more than day 1!
The Rab was brilliant, we finished 82nd out of 200ish for the short score and 4th female team (only out of 10 though!) so pretty happy with that considering it was my first MM, my partner's cold, some rubbish route choices (score is hard to plan!) and my foot giving me some pain on the Sunday - the niggle I had after the marathon is back, though not too worried about it just yet, it went away pretty quickly the last 2 times.
Training plan is game on for this week, though I might skip the runs for a week to give my foot a chance to sort itself out. That was the last running event for the year and the end of summer in my head, so a quick summary of my summer's goals:
- Consolidate E1 (specifically, lead 8 E1s) plus 10 x HVS and push to E2.
I did 7 HVSs and 7 E1s, plus trying quite a few more. Not quite my target but I feel it was enough. Italy was a great trip and I did several more around those grades and definitely got on things that felt E2, though not entirely cleanly. Would still like to get an E2 this year before it gets too cold...
- Sport: 6b and get on a 6b+/6c.
6b+ RP tick, after which I barely sport climbed!
- Enough indoor/fingerboard/core training to enable the above. Develop a routine with this and stick to it.
Mostly failed on this - one to work on over the winter
- Spend a week climbing in either S Wales or Cornwall
It was N Wales in the end, but brilliant!
- Scotland trip - mountain multipitch somewhere
Didn't have time unfortunately
- Running: complete a trail half or full marathon race. Run the 3 peaks (the Yorkshire ones that is). Mountain Marathon event.
Tick, tick and tick. Very happy.
- Run commutes at least once a week. Build milage up to ~40km/week.
Wheeziness killed this, not too fussed as I still achieved my running goals.
- MTB: the Mary Townley loop in a day.
Will post goals for the autumn next week to save this getting any longer than it already is :-)
Not a bad week overall, although various injuries have been niggling. Trying to stay on top of them, considering trying to fit some yoga in as that seems to iron out some creases.
M: cycle 19 miles, bouldering at Urban Ascent until I actually couldn't hold on any more
Tu: cycle 14 miles, run 34 mins but no idea how far as I got totally lost in the fog on Clapham Common and ended up somewhere random
W: cycle 18 miles, gym session for squats and benchpress. Decided to start cranking up the lat pulldowns - one and two handed - as my pullup ability is somewhat lacking currently.
Th: cycle 14 miles. Postponed my run (I nearly never do this) on account of waking up feeling broken.
F: run 5.2 miles / 44:42
Sa: climbing in the slate quarries for half a day before I went to a wedding in Bangor. Lead my first E1! Sort of. In that, according to my guidebook I lead an E1 and an HVS, but on the UKC logbook the grades are reversed. So maybe one of them was E1? Certainly Looning the Tube was quite a hard HVS if not.
Su: eventually dragged myself and my hangover out of Pete's Eats and back to the quarries, didn't manage to lead anything but toproped some routes in horrible style until I was knackered.
This week: no hard exercise after about Thursday, as it's my half-marathon on Sunday and I need to be fresh for it. Wish me luck!
and good luck with the run... not that you'll need it i'm sure
Thanks for doing fit club again, and awesome effort keeping up that milage, very impressive.
You're right about varied - need to make sure 'varied' doesn't become 'unfocussed' though. Will sit down and sketch out the next six months training shortly!
Right, this week:
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Yaar:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - not yet, will try to get back on the route over the next couple of weeks and see what it feels like.
Autumn: Concentrate on local some sport, see if I can work up to 7b
M: 45min road / trail run, 45min general weights
T: am - 25min hilly road cycle. pm 45min hilly road cycle
W: am - 1hr 30 climbing wall, working double blue traverse for endurance. pm - 45min general weights
T: pm - 1hr climbing wall working blue traverses for endurance
F: am - 30min continual traversing on 6b+ traverse at bridge - good finger work out - felt hard on top of last nights wall session
Front loaded the week because of family do on the weekend. Good week but tired by the end - need to make sure the weights don't leave me tired for the climbing.
Primary aim for this week is sports endurance, secondary aim is winter walk in cardio. Hopefully get on 7a sports route or E6 target route on top rope next Sunday morning.
As PPG said, you'll be fine at Langdale with the milage you've done, just make sure you get a good rest before hand.
When I lead it I thought E1 5b was a fair grade
What was your 7a+ at Dib Scar? Good effort with the nearly tick. UK limestone is really hard to onsight I reckon so if you were feeling good on it that's awesome.
I'm sure you'll get motivated for leading the crux on BB. Mid week should be a bit quieter at the crag? Anyway, you won't be the only one feeling nervous - everyone does - it just feels like you're the only one. It's 8a FFS so you can shout as loud as you like!
Cheers. Have you done this one? Do you think I should be doing hilly miles this week? Not sure if I should take it easy this week too but I think I'm gonig to need some steep ascents in my legs this week as I haven't done any hills recently.
no sun yesterday... so i don't think it's great autumn venue... there's some good looking harder routes on the left .. steep. you climbed there?
Feels really odd enjoying movement on a 7a+ without shitting myself.. it was one of my objectives last year.. simply to enjoy climbing routes in the early 7s without mini epics/dramas.. i'm not there yet as can't onsight them.. but don't think i'm trying hard enough
malham's got busy (ish) again mid week.. well it wasn't last week as it was supposed to be rubbish conditions, but by thursday things were in great shape.
thanks for the reassurance about expressing myself!!! it does seriously make me feel better :o)
after all it does provide free entertainment for the tourists (as long as there isn't swearing involved)
I've not done that route. I RP'ed the 7a to the right of it (Passion and Warfare) ages (2 years?) ago. My mate flashed the 7a+ on the steep wall, Sassenach, it looked really good.
Good crag with some quality routes. And decent warm ups.
The hard RPing you've done is obviously paying off for onsighting. Nice.
I've done langdale and it's a beautiful course. You'll be fine. You'll have to work hard of course but just run your own race. It's very easy to get demoralised when you get over taken by a pot bellied pensioner ( speaking from personal experience ) but just keep gping at your pace.
Plenty of time to recover from a hilly week. Get some hills in to boost your confidence.
As for frankie. Others have said it but hard routes are, well, hard. But they will always break down in the face of effort. They always feel hardest at the start.
Cheers, all good advice of course. Will try to remember that when the pot bellied ones start coming through :o)
> awesome effort keeping up that mileage, very impressive.
Thank you. I don't quite know if I can keep this up though, although Fit Club has certainly helped, much as an actual flesh-and-blood club or real, sentient running companions alongside might help others. It is tempting for me to say that Iain and Thickhead, with their mileage and pace are not real, that they are somehow superhuman and not subject to the weaknesses of real-life mbh. But I know that is not true. They too are human, as I am, and so their efforts, reported so matter of factly each week are genuine achievements I can relate to that really make me think, especially now, as work kicks in and the nights extend. When I am tempted to give up for a day, I do reflect that they get themselves out of the door and run so far, so fast, despite that their comfy chair is likely just as comfy as mine, and their ability to picture a 10 mile stretch of something is likely no less acute than mine. That pushes me to do it too, albeit more slowly than they would*.
I mention those two because what they do more closely aligns to what I am doing than, say, one of the rest of you triumphing on a route. But, having fallen off the only time I tried an E1 (South Groove at Trewavas, in a gale), and that was on a top rope, rest assured that I find all your other reports, however forlorn you sound (thinking of Jimmy "feeling broken (at work ?) " Kay), really very heart warming.
*Did my fastest ever 10 miles today, at 7:32 pace! Thought I was going to die after mile 3, but then found that I didn't.
What biscuit said, but I'd ease off towards the end of this week and make sure you really do have an easy week next week - don't get tempted into 'one last session' mentality.
Great effort on the Rab MM, maria. That is the kind of thing I would like to do.
Nice one. Not at all bad for your first one :-)
Why thank you kind sir :)
That sounds like an amazing summer! Congrats on the MM :)
Didn't Looning the Tube lose a hold or two that has made it harder?
Did it? Given how many bits fell off routes over the course of my weekend, that wouldn't surprise me at all... Saved By The Whole is now slightly better protected (a new cam placement) but a little harder (lost a foothold).
Great result in the RAB, it is always a great event.
Well done on rose.
If you want a quick tick at malham try hardly there 6c+. Do the start for hartley hare and then the top of puddle jumper. Its a fun route and a nice quick tick if you have done puddle jumper
How are you getting on with just another dead end job? I have that and Brooklyn girls left to tick all the 7a's on the catwalk
It's nice helping new people but sometimes you need to be selfish if you want to progress.
Ha, just spotted this from grubes' reply. They're already interfering with my training, three days out over the weekend with "freshers' flu" and both uni climbing clubs are going to Redpoint later, forcing me to use a different wall! (Well, I suppose I could be sociable...) Ok, maybe these aren't really huge problems, but I'm going to blame the new students anyway.
Good effort on getting close to the 7a completion.
Dead end job feels more solid 7a (in my limited experience), the start is the hardest bit. Think I may manage it in another session or so. Could share beta if you like, but need another few goes to make it worth while, would all be a bit vague at the moment! Could be worth a flash/onsight go with the first clip in....
sounds good but dont think I can make it to malham for a little while
Friend over from germany this weekend so local trad and beer
Nottingham beer fest next weekend
Isle of man weekend after
but after that perma dry cat walk sounds likea plan vaguely thinking of giving seventh ago and want to finish hartley hare now my knee is better.
Good luck tomorrow on the HM! (you'll be fine, but maybe have a plan for what to do in case of thick fog :)
> Thank you. I don't quite know if I can keep this up though, although Fit Club has certainly helped, much as an actual flesh-and-blood club or real, sentient running companions alongside might help others. It is tempting for me to say that Iain and Thickhead, with their mileage and pace are not real, that they are somehow superhuman and not subject to the weaknesses of real-life mbh. But I know that is not true.
I've got chronic fatigue.. the physio was pretty amazed at how weak I was. my legs were quivering holding any position.. so no.. I do break. :-)
managed 9 miles today and felt steady so hoping to slowly recover but the year may be over for me.
My week was
S-Indoor bouldering comp. Came 3rd
Seems I am quite ill. I've had 3 Dr's appointments this week with 3 different Dr's. Think they've finally got to the route of the problem. Lot's of med's. Think I've accumulated £55 in prescriptions in 6 days so far. I hate taking tablets. Very unlike me to be ill.
Same goes for you Jimmy!
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