UKC

Loads on grit, strangely can't think of too many in Llanberis pass area, and all the Pembroke ones go sideways. Obviously never climbed HVS north of Manc!

What would be in the UK top 100?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=778

In reply to Owen W-G:

There's at least two at Ogmore that should be considered: -

Exposure Explosion: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=35735
Pinocchio: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=33373

In reply to Owen W-G:

Too many HVS*** knocking around in the lakes... think this list might be mahoosive.

I hate HVS!

Behind the lines - hodge close

In reply to Owen W-G:

Scavenger on Gogarth Main Cliff.
Crucible, Craig Yr Ogof, Cwn Silyn

In reply to scott quinn:

what's wrong with HVS?

In reply to Owen W-G:

You could halve the number of the Peak ones and still have too many!

Lakes:
Centaur, East Buttress
Yellow Slab, East Buttress
Black Sunday, Esk Buttress
Leopard's Crawl, Dow Crag

One from the North West:
Bald Eagle, Stone Valley Crags

In reply to Owen W-G:

There's loads in the pass, take your pick from
Spectre
Kaisergebirge Wall
Karwendal Wall
Wind
The Mole
Gollum
Plexus
Diagonal
Western Rib
Black Spring

that's just a selection from 2 crags

In reply to Owen W-G:

Looning the Tube in the quarries is classic, soft for HVS but it gets E1 on UKC for some reason.

In reply to Owen W-G:

American Beauty, especially good with the tidal boulder-hop approach rather than copping out by abbing down the route.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Cyclops (Dubh Loch)
Cioch Grooves (Sron na Ciche)
Slochd Wall (Beinn a'Bhuird)

In reply to jim jones:

Mur y Niwl, given HVS in some guides.

Sadly Formula one is no more.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

>what's wrong with HVS?

I don't hate HVS some are an absolute joy & you would struggle to beat them climbing at any grade.

-BUT-

I've found it to be such a broad grade.

Easiest HVS in comparison to the hardest HVS seems like much (read much much much) more than your average grade difference.

So if your on-sighting VS with ease and fancy (like I did) trying a HVS, you can easily get the wrong one and bruise your ego...or worse.

As soon as I got onto & above E1 I struggled to find the motivation for most uninspiring HVS routes, I've even found the protection to be much better in the lower E grades (in some cases).

Sand bag grade?
There was a thread on this some time ago.

In reply to Owen W-G:

I'd have Centurion at the top of my list, but I see you've got that in already. Hammer at Etive and Front Line in Pembroke ought to be in there, and if you're including Ireland, then Pis Fliuch at Ailladie is a stonker.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Snakes and Ladders and Tunnels, doh!

In reply to Owen W-G:

I'd add the Fang at Tremadog to that list.

In reply to Owen W-G:

King Kong at Wintours Leap.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Thorn, Sunset Slab, OR ( high Tor) wouldnt be on my list for a top 200. You missed Grey Arete.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Don't Think Twice - Latheronwheel
Rapture of the Deep - Mid Clyth
The Hand Traverse - Reiff
Chicken Run - Totegan Geos
Nice Work if You Can Get it - Totegan Geos
Bull's Crack - Heptonstall
Flake Crack - Helsby
The Dogg - Pot Hole Quarry

In reply to Owen W-G:

Hell's Kitchen, Fair Head, would go in my top 10.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Why does the fact that an HVS goes sideways debar it from your list?

Heart of Darkness and Pigs on the Wing should definitely be in there, as should Joyous Gard.

In reply to scott titt:

And Burn Up too.

In reply to John2:

Why does the fact that an HVS goes sideways debar it from your list?

Don't think the OP is saying that traverses should be omitted, just that the good HVS's in Pembroke tend to involve a bit of sideways action...

In reply to Choss:


Not been HVS for a long time, rightly so.

Moonraker at Berry Head is nice.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Merlin Direct at Tremadog - got a bit of everything.

In reply to Owen W-G: I think Froggatt only needs Valkyrie and possibly Chequers Buttress, not Sunset slab. Another vote for Brant Direct too. There must be a couple of classy ones at White Ghyll with a knot in?

In reply to Owen W-G:

My favourite grade!

Riders on the storm - Pembroke - absolutely THE BEST one i have done.
Moonraker - Berryhead - amazing rock architecture and adventure. The approach is great if you scramble in.
The Fang - Tremadog - memorable top pitch for the leader!
Pluto - Langdale - 3 memorable pitches and great positions.
Route 2 - Diabaig - SPECTACULAR position.
Cemetery Gates - Cromlech, can't be E1?!
West Rib - The Mot, really pleasant and actually decent pro.
Plexus - The Mot, E1 really though. Grit in the mountains!
Meshach - Tremadog, just because it's so fookin ard.
Spectre - Grochan - just for the harding slot.
Brant Direct - Grochan - proper trad.
Scratch arete - tremadog - great fun.
Tritus - Langdale, superb and i had no expectations.
Croton oil on the grit cos it's a bit unique and special.
King Bee Crack on Hollyhead - excellent fight.

Think those are my faves to date...

In reply to John2:



I think an HVS can go sideways and merit inclusion - see riders on the storm! Heart of darkness was a bit of a let down i thought. only 1 really superb bit when you go round the arete but compared to say Riders on the storm or moonraker it's really quite average...

In reply to Max factor:


It's still VS though! Great route and position but definitely VS.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Like all these lists virtually every route on it would be in Scotland, if only it would stop raining there and they introduced about a billion bats to sort out the midge problem.

Bludger's Revelation, for example (what is a bludger, btw?)

jcm

In reply to Owen W-G:

Yes Monraker at Berry Head is fantastic. There are quite a few adventures at Swanage:

Finale Groove
Thunderball
Jo
Behemoth

I don't remember Mercury at Carn Gowla being harder than HVS and what an adventure.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Archdeacon on Mingulay
Inbred on Creag Dubh
If you want something in the central belt, Walk on the Wild Side

In reply to CurlyStevo:


Behind the Lines!

In reply to Iain Thow:
You have taste Sir, I was about to post the same, at least for Centurion. It would be even better if the 3rd and 4th pitches weren't a bit easy. Hammer is great too (without tension on the traverse). In wales I'd go for Diagonal, down south Moonraker.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Bullroar
Scavenger

In reply to Steve Perry:

When did Bulls crack make HVS, it's packed with gear and just a couple of moves around the budge? Was std VS back in the day. Mind you thin read line was std E1 too.........

In reply to Owen W-G:

I shall my 2pence worth then with an absolute classic....Cloggy Corner! Three stars in any book.

In reply to Martin Haworth:

Yeah, Bullroar too. Although it's better in winter........

In reply to Sean Kelly:


Even better as a four star E1!

In reply to David Bennett:

I bet them were the days

In reply to Steve Perry:

You taking the pi$$? Your profile says you are old enough to have had that fun... Or are you a newby and missed out?

Disclaimer. Far too much red wine......... So might get provocative.....

ps the counter was that things like forked lightening were E4 because cams had not been invented. I can tell you that moacs and hexentrics were a poor substitute...

In reply to David Bennett:

I remember Thin Red Line being E1 in the Yorkshire Gritstone guide aye.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:




Wasn't Bludger the nickname of someone in the Creagh Dhu ?

In reply to DDDD:

Can't speak about the other three (although will hopefully do them soon) but FG is absolutely classic. There's nothing technically hard but it just keeps coming at you - a lot of people would struggle on it if they weren't used to places like Swanage.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Personally I think FG is much easier than a lot of VS's at Swanage. But then again I grew up on Peak limestone.

In reply to Owen W-G:

How about Immaculate slab on Lundy, really atmospheric and lovely climbing. Also a personal choice would be Fiddlers Arete at Goldsborough Carr, I know it's tiny but it's a little gem.

In reply to David Bennett:

Its been HVS since 1989 definitive. Are you Rip van Winkle?

In reply to Owen W-G:

I was told that HVS's are notoriously difficult and that it was best to miss the grade out altogether.

In reply to Phil1919:
Silly view. Possibly the best grade in that anyone fit, healthy and serious about trad climbing should be able to get good enough to widely enjoy it. Above this, talent, time and and bravery cut options for the majority.

In reply to Al Evans:

I would tend to agree with you Al - but it would be a fairly daunting proposition for your average VS leader who hadn't experienced Swanage. I think it's just a very big and sustained VS in an HVS setting - not really that experienced but I don't think there is anything technically harder than 4c - but some of the moves as you get towards the top feel pretty out there, then of course there's the ruckle top out !

In reply to Owen W-G:

The Pause

In reply to Al Evans:

Still should be VS in my opinion....and I think I speak with some authority here....

In reply to Owen W-G:
Outward Bound @ Low man

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=26076

In reply to Owen W-G:
Seeing as you didn't add my recommendations to your E1 list, I'll just pop one of Northumberlands finest HVS's here:

Blasphemy Wall, Peel Crag

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=42830

If you are having an HVS ticklist you have to include a Northumberland HVS (opted for a soft one).

In reply to Owen W-G:

No Great North Road?

The best HVS I've done in Cornwall is Waltzing Matilda on Bosigran Ridge, something of a classic already - but might be E1.

In reply to Wilbur:

It lived up to it's name that day!

In reply to Owen W-G:

Id second Immaculate slab on Lundy, and add American Beauty too! Both brilliant. Also the top of Formula One collapsed a few years ago, and I had a miserable time on the new version... so should probably be removed from the list. Another suggestion would be Angel of Sharkness near Elgol, really atmospheric and lovely steep climbing.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Flying Buttress Direct
Three Pebble Slab

In reply to Owen W-G:

I don't remember Black Sunday being any good, or anything at all about it for that matter, but Red Edge (E1 really) and Trespasser Groove are etched in my mind as brilliant climbs.

High Crag Buttress is superb.

Trinity on the East Buttress is very good.

I didn't think much to Great Bow on Cloggy and failed to even find Sheaf! Cloggy Corner was a joy though.

Route 2 at Diabeg. Folk rave about this but I don't remember it being anything special.

Same with Riders on a Storm at Pembroke. I thought this was crap. Line less jug pulling. No where near as good as say: Moonraker, Dream of White Horses or Heart of Darkness.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Gob

In reply to Owen W-G:

Can't speak much for outside the Peak. Yes, there are too many 'classic' HVSs in the Peak, but if I were to be allowed just one on the list it would be Suicide Wall at Cratcliffe Tor.

In reply to Jimbo C:

Some years back I did Great Crack at Dukes Qy, Whatstandwell in the morning and then Original Route on High Tor in the afternoon. One of the best grit routes at HVS followed by one of the best limestone ones.
Here's a random list of some of the most memorable HVSs I've done:
Assassin (Juniper Wall)
Golden Slipper
Britomartis
Saxon (Carn Kenidjack)
John Peel (Dovedale)
Grooves Traverse (Gimmer)
Mandrake (Quayfoot Buttress)

In reply to Owen W-G:

Ethos at Barcud is one of my favourite Pembroke routes and I would call it a slanting crack, definitely not a traverse.

In reply to Tom Valentine:

Ethos is a good call.

With ref to TRip's comments on Riders On The Storm - if by line-less you mean that it is a line that only reveals itself as you climb the route then fair enough, but that is one of the strengths of the route; another is the jug hauling, it opens up an otherwise unlikely line through steep territory. Definitely 3 stars for me. Heart Of Darkness only gets 1 star in the CC guide.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:


I love that route. I think the situation is wonderful and the climbing - with a tricky crux to get started, perfect jug-hauling, a little tricky move or two and a romp out - is tremendously entertaining.

Heart of Darkness is more spectacular and certainly a 3* route, but it's not actually climbing, just sideways shuffling.

In reply to EarlyBird:


Are talking about the same route? I would have said it crosses a jug-covered slab by one (or more) of literally dozens of possible lines at about the same grade. Pleasant enough but pretty forgettable. I never understand the general enthusiasm for this route. It’s just not remotely in the same class as HoD, or Barad (the best Pembroke HVS IMHO).

jcm

In reply to Owen W-G:

My favourite HVSs to date, in no particular order:

* Malbogies (Avon Gorge) - Amazing to find a way through such a steep and intimidating face at this grade!
* Pink Wall Traverse (Avon Gorge) - Really unusual climb including Avon's only 'via ferrata' section and a very exposed traverse.
* Hell Gates (Avon Gorge) - A memorable line on great, steep rock and fun to join the 'Hell Gates Club' by signing in at the cave.
* The Sloth (The Roaches) - What other route goes over a roof like that at the grade?
* Rubberneck (the Five Clouds) - Fantastic route which represents the best of gritstone, with a huge variety of climbing in its relatively short length.
* Batchelor's Left-Hand (Hen Cloud) - Some pumpy moves near the start and a relief when you get past them! The whole climb is a really nice line.
* Right Unconquerable (Stanage) - One of the most impressive flakes around!
* Cheetah (Wintour's Leap) - Good rock and bold climbing. Long runouts combined with technical moves. Might have a soft spot for it having had two epics on it as a VS climber (it was graded VS then!) then finally succeeding on it!

In reply to Owen W-G:

Definitely looks short of County sandstone!! And Yorkshire Grit too for that matter. So just a few to get started from what I've done/attempted:

Main Wall, Bowden
Canada Crack, Bowden
Audacity, Corby's
Demon Wall, Almscliffe

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Barad - great route. Many easier E1's!

In reply to Owen W-G:

Riders on the storm at Pembroke and Joint Effort at Staden quarry are the stand outs for me

In reply to Owen W-G:

im gonna Chuck in a couple of Wye Valley single Pitch classic HVSs at Shorn Cliff.

No musketeers.
Organ grinder.

Done the former, pumped out Badly and floundered on the Latter. Both good for the Grade Though.

In reply to kyaizawa:

1.5*

A micro-route. There are a thousand similar and better micro-routes on grit, which are less polished. The Slipstones HVSs for example, and while they're sweet, no one would pretend that they're national classics.

Of the Almscliffe (and therefore Yorkshire?) HVSs, only Overhanging Groove could hold its own on a proper crag.

In reply to GuyVG:


That's a bit like saying "my two favourite foods are lobster thermidor and turkey twizzlers". Not wrong as such, just odd!

In reply to Owen W-G:

Midnight Cowboy, Baggy Point

In reply to Jon Stewart:

I'm with you on the Overhanging Groove being the only genuinely decent HVS at Almscliff.

Here's one that I don't think has been mentioned yet: Junkyard Angel at Malham. There's also the HVSes on the central slab at Crummackdale - Olympus, Venus and Little Pink Claire. Those four are probably the best of the Yorkshire Limestone HVSes

In reply to Bulls Crack:


Yeh agreed, I've done Barad three times just to introduce other people to its delights

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Which is which?

More like candy floss and a nice pasty. In that order.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Saxon at kenidjack, everybody always goes on about it being inferior to rock dancer but they're all wrong - the traverse is great.

Conclusion at Shepherds - always loved doing it.

Troutdale pinnacle superdirect - just brilliant.

In reply to kyaizawa:

Could also have Great Wall at Great Wanney and Left Organ Pipe at Crag Lough - now that it is clean it is brilliant

In reply to pasbury:


I think it is inferior to Rock Dancer, as it doesn't have any memorable bits (traverse? can't remember) - but on the other hand it does just climb the face by the most logical line. Either way it's still one of the best HVSs in the country.

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Agreed - Rock Dancer is much the better climb if you can climb E1. But if you can't, then Saxon gains hugely in quality from being the only way you can climb a magnificent slab of rock.

In reply to Bob:


Demon Wall and Great Western ??

Is your memory going, Bob?

In reply to Rick Graham:

Great Western is the most overrated route going - would struggle to get a star on most crags. Demon Wall is a bit non-descript, lots and lots of better routes around.

Memory definitely not on the decline

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Don't you only really do the traverse to get to the first belay, if you are doing in two pitches? This was the original way but it seems more usual to do it in one now - maybe there's a now a belay at the top, rather than walking up the grass for miles - I don't recall.

In reply to Bob:


Absolutely.

I take it you're not from Yorkshire then? It's amazing what some people can believe if they tell themselves it's true over and over again.

In reply to Jon Stewart:



Like Left Wall being one of the best HVS's in the UK? (or was that E1?)

In reply to Jon Stewart:

I'm a Lancastrian (well it's part of Cumbria now) but have lived on the darker side of the Pennines for about 15 years.

There's some decent routes at Almscliff but there's a lot better elsewhere in Yorkshire (the northern bit not the Peak).

In reply to Martin Hore:


Bang on!

In reply to Bob:

It is over-rated ie starts up another route and then branches off and the easier finish isn't as good as the harder one....but it's still pretty good 2 stars

In reply to Robert Durran:


Neither. You're getting confused with that HVS at Gogarth.

In reply to Jon Stewart:


you've just guessed dinner, well done. Joint effort was brilliant, everything I'd want in a trad route.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Sunset Creek ...
Steve

In reply to Steve Perry:


Oh yes, it's a beauty...:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=25772