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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=581566
Summary of last week:
Joughton - How's the elbow doing? Managing to maintain your stretching and antagonistic exercises as part of the routine?
Eagle River - How's your angry finger doing? Get on any 'easy' trad and maintain your dignity?!
Nick Russell - Did you manage to taper and rest up for your gala? How did it go? Did you get to Cheddar?
hms - I feel your frustration - how's the search going for a trad partner? Have you hooked up with Nick yet?
AJM - What's the latest from Frankenjura? Enjoying your trip?
mrchewy - Did you have a good time in North Wales? How was your head on the Idwal Slabs?
Alun - Get any cycling done this week? How are things shaping up for Targassone in April?
biscuit - How are your tweaky fingers? Good to hear no problems with elbows or shoulders? Have you instigated your periodised schedule?
mattrm - How's the elbow? Are you managing to keep up with your exercises for it?
Sankey - Well done for an active week; how did this week compare? Got a strategy for sanity during your visit to Penn State?
IainRUK - Wow, that's a hell of a lot of running (for me)! What was your focus this week?
JimmyKay - Have you added any further board problems? Did you get out for more sport climbs this week?
pork pie girl - Impressive week. How's progress on Baboo? Have you led it yet? Did you doing any indoors too? Malham?
Luke Owens - Well done for taking some rest. Have you managed to tick Firestarter?
Humperdink - How's your mileage been this week, and the ankle? Have you managed to mesh training and work better?
Nomics4sale - Did you get to Malham this week? How did it go?
Ally Smith - How's the hip/groin? Did you succeed in getting pumped and practising shaking out?
Exile - How's that VI 7 coming? How's progress as Trowbarrow?
Dandan82 - Another well done for taking rest; did it pay of this week? How's your finger and elbows?
Garrouli - Did you hook up with hms? Any progress on your projects?
mbh - Getted to hear you're in a low; how's your heal been this week?
Tyler - Tell us about the pump and Malham!
Curious Yellow - Well done for your V6 tick. How are you doing on your project at Cuttings?
AndrewW - What news of the project?
grubes - Better week this week? Did you get a ride in? How are the fingers?
Just Tintin - Have you fully got over the lurgy? How was the skiing? Are you a Brookes regular? When do you train?
Have a great week everyone!
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=581566
Summary of last week:
Joughton - How's the elbow doing? Managing to maintain your stretching and antagonistic exercises as part of the routine?
Eagle River - How's your angry finger doing? Get on any 'easy' trad and maintain your dignity?!
Nick Russell - Did you manage to taper and rest up for your gala? How did it go? Did you get to Cheddar?
hms - I feel your frustration - how's the search going for a trad partner? Have you hooked up with Nick yet?
AJM - What's the latest from Frankenjura? Enjoying your trip?
mrchewy - Did you have a good time in North Wales? How was your head on the Idwal Slabs?
Alun - Get any cycling done this week? How are things shaping up for Targassone in April?
biscuit - How are your tweaky fingers? Good to hear no problems with elbows or shoulders? Have you instigated your periodised schedule?
mattrm - How's the elbow? Are you managing to keep up with your exercises for it?
Sankey - Well done for an active week; how did this week compare? Got a strategy for sanity during your visit to Penn State?
IainRUK - Wow, that's a hell of a lot of running (for me)! What was your focus this week?
JimmyKay - Have you added any further board problems? Did you get out for more sport climbs this week?
pork pie girl - Impressive week. How's progress on Baboo? Have you led it yet? Did you doing any indoors too? Malham?
Luke Owens - Well done for taking some rest. Have you managed to tick Firestarter?
Humperdink - How's your mileage been this week, and the ankle? Have you managed to mesh training and work better?
Nomics4sale - Did you get to Malham this week? How did it go?
Ally Smith - How's the hip/groin? Did you succeed in getting pumped and practising shaking out?
Exile - How's that VI 7 coming? How's progress as Trowbarrow?
Dandan82 - Another well done for taking rest; did it pay of this week? How's your finger and elbows?
Garrouli - Did you hook up with hms? Any progress on your projects?
mbh - Getted to hear you're in a low; how's your heal been this week?
Tyler - Tell us about the pump and Malham!
Curious Yellow - Well done for your V6 tick. How are you doing on your project at Cuttings?
AndrewW - What news of the project?
grubes - Better week this week? Did you get a ride in? How are the fingers?
Just Tintin - Have you fully got over the lurgy? How was the skiing? Are you a Brookes regular? When do you train?
Have a great week everyone!
In reply to Si Cox:
Si - are you doing the post next week as well? I can start doing the posts from the 6th of April onwards? I'm probably going to be busy next weekend so might struggle to do Sunday. I'll then probably be ok to do them through till June or maybe later.
Si - are you doing the post next week as well? I can start doing the posts from the 6th of April onwards? I'm probably going to be busy next weekend so might struggle to do Sunday. I'll then probably be ok to do them through till June or maybe later.
In reply to Si Cox:
Cheers Si, although I'm in Spain still - Frankenjura is a possibility for September!
Eventful week. Must stress to those who have me on Facebook as well as here that the details below are not to be shared there - some people are best left unworried!
So anyway Tuesday was Montsant, with aims to try Hidrofobia one of the classic 8as. First trip up I did all the moves. Went up second trip trying some links, and to cut a long story short fell off on the steepest section, after the crux. Coming out of a dropknee popping for a good hold I missed it but the sideways momentum generated by pushing off with the right leg (outside edging) meant the leg moved behind the rope as I fell. So I fully inverted on the way down and hit the wall head and shoulder first. Only just managed to catch my glasses as the rope tried to flick them off, which as those who know me will know would have been a true tragedy. Anyhow, head wounds bleed impressively so there was blood everywhere, although when I reached the ground and had cleaned the worst of it off I'd escaped with a load of bruising and grazing on my back and shoulder and a cone shaped hold about a centimetre across and deep on the back of my head. Cue a few bad nights sleep as every time I rolled over I woke myself up. Scabbed over and healing nicely now thankfully, so no long term damage done, but worth thinking about the sort of move I was doing and being aware that, especially if its steep so the rope hangs out behind you a bit you can slip a leg the wrong side of the rope if you're making a throw like that.
A kind Spanish dude who was trying the route too retrieved my draws, I rested Wednesday, and on Thursday went back up to collect the draws from a line Ali had been trying, and onsighted a brilliant 7a which was good, nice to feel my head wasn't broken mentally.
Then Terradets Friday and yesterday. Friday we tried a multipitch - stiff grades and spaced bolts meant I've done easier E3s than the 6a pitch. Poor Ali crunched a finger pulley over crimping on it so is currently rehabbing. Stuck the draws into Latido del Miedo in the afternoon and did all the moves. Yesterday I had 3 goes, one working out some decent links and then two where everything went downhill and I left feeling incredibly dispirited - struggling with a hard move on the easier bottom wall, and seemingly unable to link into the crux from anywhere useful (or, at the end, even link the crux full stop). Gonna give it another go tomorrow when I'm rested, and depending on progress make a decision as to whether to continue or to try something else.
So yeah, just another week in the life of the dirtbag really...!
> AJM - What's the latest from Frankenjura? Enjoying your trip?
Cheers Si, although I'm in Spain still - Frankenjura is a possibility for September!
Eventful week. Must stress to those who have me on Facebook as well as here that the details below are not to be shared there - some people are best left unworried!
So anyway Tuesday was Montsant, with aims to try Hidrofobia one of the classic 8as. First trip up I did all the moves. Went up second trip trying some links, and to cut a long story short fell off on the steepest section, after the crux. Coming out of a dropknee popping for a good hold I missed it but the sideways momentum generated by pushing off with the right leg (outside edging) meant the leg moved behind the rope as I fell. So I fully inverted on the way down and hit the wall head and shoulder first. Only just managed to catch my glasses as the rope tried to flick them off, which as those who know me will know would have been a true tragedy. Anyhow, head wounds bleed impressively so there was blood everywhere, although when I reached the ground and had cleaned the worst of it off I'd escaped with a load of bruising and grazing on my back and shoulder and a cone shaped hold about a centimetre across and deep on the back of my head. Cue a few bad nights sleep as every time I rolled over I woke myself up. Scabbed over and healing nicely now thankfully, so no long term damage done, but worth thinking about the sort of move I was doing and being aware that, especially if its steep so the rope hangs out behind you a bit you can slip a leg the wrong side of the rope if you're making a throw like that.
A kind Spanish dude who was trying the route too retrieved my draws, I rested Wednesday, and on Thursday went back up to collect the draws from a line Ali had been trying, and onsighted a brilliant 7a which was good, nice to feel my head wasn't broken mentally.
Then Terradets Friday and yesterday. Friday we tried a multipitch - stiff grades and spaced bolts meant I've done easier E3s than the 6a pitch. Poor Ali crunched a finger pulley over crimping on it so is currently rehabbing. Stuck the draws into Latido del Miedo in the afternoon and did all the moves. Yesterday I had 3 goes, one working out some decent links and then two where everything went downhill and I left feeling incredibly dispirited - struggling with a hard move on the easier bottom wall, and seemingly unable to link into the crux from anywhere useful (or, at the end, even link the crux full stop). Gonna give it another go tomorrow when I'm rested, and depending on progress make a decision as to whether to continue or to try something else.
So yeah, just another week in the life of the dirtbag really...!
In reply to Si Cox:
James finally got an edit together of our October font trip if anyone's keen: vimeo.com/89159725. I didn't get much done on that trip as I was in a weak untrained state after being injured all summer. Some good sends by jimmy Bryant though.
Didn't go out this weekend due to unpredictable weather. Spent petrol money on food instead.
M- bouldering and board session
T- rest
W-bouldering and board session.
T-bOuldering and board session
F- football but not much
S-bouldering and board session
S-should pop down the wall later for another session.
James finally got an edit together of our October font trip if anyone's keen: vimeo.com/89159725. I didn't get much done on that trip as I was in a weak untrained state after being injured all summer. Some good sends by jimmy Bryant though.
Didn't go out this weekend due to unpredictable weather. Spent petrol money on food instead.
M- bouldering and board session
T- rest
W-bouldering and board session.
T-bOuldering and board session
F- football but not much
S-bouldering and board session
S-should pop down the wall later for another session.
In reply to AJM:
That sounds really nasty. I'm usually much more confident about taking falls on steep stuff, but just shows that it isn't necessarily better. And I know totally where you're coming from re not worrying non-climbers (although seeing my boss go positively green when I showed him that photo of the route at Chorro was amusing)
Anyway, take care. Am condolences to Ali over the finger - hope it isn't too serious. Co-incidence it happened just when UKC had put up their finger article!
That sounds really nasty. I'm usually much more confident about taking falls on steep stuff, but just shows that it isn't necessarily better. And I know totally where you're coming from re not worrying non-climbers (although seeing my boss go positively green when I showed him that photo of the route at Chorro was amusing)
Anyway, take care. Am condolences to Ali over the finger - hope it isn't too serious. Co-incidence it happened just when UKC had put up their finger article!
In reply to Si Cox:
Thanks Si, No trad for me this week, finger will probably take a while although it's not a proper rupture.
Mon: Yoga
Wed: Easy routes indoors
Think I might leave fit club alone for a while given that all I can do is wait for this finger to get better. Cold water, massage and really easy routes to stimulate blood flow is all I'll be doing for the next 3-4 weeks.
Thanks Si, No trad for me this week, finger will probably take a while although it's not a proper rupture.
Mon: Yoga
Wed: Easy routes indoors
Think I might leave fit club alone for a while given that all I can do is wait for this finger to get better. Cold water, massage and really easy routes to stimulate blood flow is all I'll be doing for the next 3-4 weeks.
In reply to Eagle River & hms:
Cheers guys. I think its a combination of very lucky (it could have been a lot worse!) and very unlucky (in that I think its probably the only place on the route where I would actually have come in hard - going from the shallowest angle section of the route into the steepest bulge and falling off going for the (clipping) hold above the bulge, so probably the greatest difference in angle of "me to bolt" versus "bolt to wall below").
Cheers guys. I think its a combination of very lucky (it could have been a lot worse!) and very unlucky (in that I think its probably the only place on the route where I would actually have come in hard - going from the shallowest angle section of the route into the steepest bulge and falling off going for the (clipping) hold above the bulge, so probably the greatest difference in angle of "me to bolt" versus "bolt to wall below").
In reply to Si Cox:
Thanks for the round-up, Si. And apologies if last week's post might have come across o everyone as a tad whingy. I was certinly TYPING LOUDLY which is nnever a good sign.
Getting the whole triumvirate of weather/work/partner to line up is being a pain, but I guess I just need to relax a bit more about it. Getting all stressed isnt going to solve anything, so make the most efficient use of the time I do have available.
M - cycle commute. UCR in evening but partner late. I'd done 9 circuits before he turned up so was already rather tired. So spent an hour doing lots and lots of short TR routes. None very hard, but they are all flat wall and need good footwork and/or strong fingers so good practise.
T - cycle commute. Evening: Bloc Good volume of mid-grade (er - that's mid-grade for me...) stuff plus trying some harder ones too. Wussed out of the final move of a 6b as it was a huge move, at the top of the tallest bit of wall, and appeared to be for a blob!
W - met up with Nick for an afternoon at New Quarry. On-sighted a 6c+ (I think it is somewhat overgraded but ssh, don't tell). We tried a 7a+ which Nick got on pretty well with and I struggled on the crux. A worryingly large number of worryingly large bits fell off the route, which doesn't encourage me to go back and work it, somehow!
T - cycle commute, TRX session in evening.
F - TCA. Specifically went to play on the new mothership routes but the grading seemed insane. Put in lots of effort, but didn't top much. New circuits but again the grading seems all over the place. 6b & 6b+ are a doddle, 6c is a great big f off.
S - UCR. Rather more rushed than intended so also a short bit of fingerboarding when I got home. 6a 6b+ / 6b+ 6b / 6b+ / 7b / 6c+ 6b / 6b+ 6b+ then a quick whizz round the steep 7a circuit. Some of the 6b+ were part way then trying out bits at the top of the 7b. I have lead all the moves and made all the clips, but will need a bit more work plus a bit of luck to get it clean.
S - have been told by my family that I'm having a rest day, which apparently will consist of going round the shops with them, spending money. Did I mention that I need an out-door partner? Now?!
Thanks for the round-up, Si. And apologies if last week's post might have come across o everyone as a tad whingy. I was certinly TYPING LOUDLY which is nnever a good sign.
Getting the whole triumvirate of weather/work/partner to line up is being a pain, but I guess I just need to relax a bit more about it. Getting all stressed isnt going to solve anything, so make the most efficient use of the time I do have available.
M - cycle commute. UCR in evening but partner late. I'd done 9 circuits before he turned up so was already rather tired. So spent an hour doing lots and lots of short TR routes. None very hard, but they are all flat wall and need good footwork and/or strong fingers so good practise.
T - cycle commute. Evening: Bloc Good volume of mid-grade (er - that's mid-grade for me...) stuff plus trying some harder ones too. Wussed out of the final move of a 6b as it was a huge move, at the top of the tallest bit of wall, and appeared to be for a blob!
W - met up with Nick for an afternoon at New Quarry. On-sighted a 6c+ (I think it is somewhat overgraded but ssh, don't tell). We tried a 7a+ which Nick got on pretty well with and I struggled on the crux. A worryingly large number of worryingly large bits fell off the route, which doesn't encourage me to go back and work it, somehow!
T - cycle commute, TRX session in evening.
F - TCA. Specifically went to play on the new mothership routes but the grading seemed insane. Put in lots of effort, but didn't top much. New circuits but again the grading seems all over the place. 6b & 6b+ are a doddle, 6c is a great big f off.
S - UCR. Rather more rushed than intended so also a short bit of fingerboarding when I got home. 6a 6b+ / 6b+ 6b / 6b+ / 7b / 6c+ 6b / 6b+ 6b+ then a quick whizz round the steep 7a circuit. Some of the 6b+ were part way then trying out bits at the top of the 7b. I have lead all the moves and made all the clips, but will need a bit more work plus a bit of luck to get it clean.
S - have been told by my family that I'm having a rest day, which apparently will consist of going round the shops with them, spending money. Did I mention that I need an out-door partner? Now?!
In reply to hms:
Still in Gloucester, I'm afraid. And it sounds like your family are right about one thing: reading your roundup you could do with a rest day!
> Did I mention that I need an out-door partner? Now?!
Still in Gloucester, I'm afraid. And it sounds like your family are right about one thing: reading your roundup you could do with a rest day!
In reply to Si Cox:
Thanks Si, and thanks everyone for the encouragement and advice. I will see someone now about my heel, since something is clearly up with it. Should I go first to a GP, or straight to a sports physio?
Anyway, I gave it a go this week and got six runs done, seven if you count the one I aborted on Thursday when the heel pain flared up, including three goes on the coast path and one run into double digits (just), my first, alone, for about six weeks.
M - 3.1 miles. Just to see what would happen.
T - 4.5 miles, woods and coast path.
W - 7.5 miles, woods and more coast path. Some hills this time.
T - ouch, aborted after 0.4 miles
F - 5.1 miles on coast path. The really crumbly bit between St Agnes and Perranporth, past Cligga Head.
S - 5.1 miles
S - 10.0 miles.
So, 35.7 miles, with a few at 7:30 or better. My running style is a bit odd, and I am definitely slower and less fit than I was, and, anyway, I wasn't trying to push it, but the end of the week felt much better than the beginning.
This should help halt the slow reversal of my body to its naturally blobby state, and I am now looking forward to more. Another boost I got was to find that one 1.5 miles section of track that I have done many times has been made into a Strava segment, and I am 3rd, out of 38 people, on a 6:42 pace, way ahead of anyone else my age! Number one on the list went to school with my son. That was as part of a 10 mile run, just after several 60+ mile weeks, suggesting that this training lark does actually work.
AJM - glad you are OK!
Thanks Si, and thanks everyone for the encouragement and advice. I will see someone now about my heel, since something is clearly up with it. Should I go first to a GP, or straight to a sports physio?
Anyway, I gave it a go this week and got six runs done, seven if you count the one I aborted on Thursday when the heel pain flared up, including three goes on the coast path and one run into double digits (just), my first, alone, for about six weeks.
M - 3.1 miles. Just to see what would happen.
T - 4.5 miles, woods and coast path.
W - 7.5 miles, woods and more coast path. Some hills this time.
T - ouch, aborted after 0.4 miles
F - 5.1 miles on coast path. The really crumbly bit between St Agnes and Perranporth, past Cligga Head.
S - 5.1 miles
S - 10.0 miles.
So, 35.7 miles, with a few at 7:30 or better. My running style is a bit odd, and I am definitely slower and less fit than I was, and, anyway, I wasn't trying to push it, but the end of the week felt much better than the beginning.
This should help halt the slow reversal of my body to its naturally blobby state, and I am now looking forward to more. Another boost I got was to find that one 1.5 miles section of track that I have done many times has been made into a Strava segment, and I am 3rd, out of 38 people, on a 6:42 pace, way ahead of anyone else my age! Number one on the list went to school with my son. That was as part of a 10 mile run, just after several 60+ mile weeks, suggesting that this training lark does actually work.
AJM - glad you are OK!
In reply to mbh:
I would definitely go to a sports physio first.
Make sure you go to a good one, ideally a running specialist and ideally one who comes recommended.
I hope you get it sorted.
I would definitely go to a sports physio first.
Make sure you go to a good one, ideally a running specialist and ideally one who comes recommended.
I hope you get it sorted.
In reply to Si Cox:
Thanks for the summary. And bad luck AJM!
STG: Get strong for Targassone in April, get fit for Lleida in May
MTG: rp 7c
LTG: rp 8a
A quiet week this week, tuesday and thursday went bouldering indoors and felt good, I'm definitely stronger than ever. Weight is hovering at 69-70kg. This weekend I'm not feeling so great so no exercise. I'm beginning to feel a bit guilty about not doing enough cycling, so I have to some more of that this week.
Thanks for the summary. And bad luck AJM!
STG: Get strong for Targassone in April, get fit for Lleida in May
MTG: rp 7c
LTG: rp 8a
A quiet week this week, tuesday and thursday went bouldering indoors and felt good, I'm definitely stronger than ever. Weight is hovering at 69-70kg. This weekend I'm not feeling so great so no exercise. I'm beginning to feel a bit guilty about not doing enough cycling, so I have to some more of that this week.
In reply to Si Cox:
Just base miles.. few 50 milers coming up, was going to race but had other things on this week..
m: 9.2 miles on trails in snow. pm: 4.1 miles on road
t: am: 7 miles 7:30 pace road and trail pm: 8 miles, with 5 x 2km reps at 5:10-5;20 pace with Upenn running group.
w: 15 miles 6;50 pace, 2.2 miles leg stretcher afterwards.
t: am: 7 miles 7:30 pace road and trail pm: 6 miles with 3.6 miles tempo at 5:50 pace
f: am: 10.5 miles 7:30 pace. pm:6.5 miles 8:30 pace
s: 12.22 miles road and trail 6:50 pace, got married in the afternoon.. progress next step of immigration now.
s: 16.22 miles road and trail 6:50 pace
Nice week, just shy of 105 miles of running and some nice sessions.
Just base miles.. few 50 milers coming up, was going to race but had other things on this week..
m: 9.2 miles on trails in snow. pm: 4.1 miles on road
t: am: 7 miles 7:30 pace road and trail pm: 8 miles, with 5 x 2km reps at 5:10-5;20 pace with Upenn running group.
w: 15 miles 6;50 pace, 2.2 miles leg stretcher afterwards.
t: am: 7 miles 7:30 pace road and trail pm: 6 miles with 3.6 miles tempo at 5:50 pace
f: am: 10.5 miles 7:30 pace. pm:6.5 miles 8:30 pace
s: 12.22 miles road and trail 6:50 pace, got married in the afternoon.. progress next step of immigration now.
s: 16.22 miles road and trail 6:50 pace
Nice week, just shy of 105 miles of running and some nice sessions.
In reply to mbh:
This was the visa process wedding.. we had to be married within 90 days on the visa I have.. its a strange process, so strange there's a reality TV show on it. http://www.tlc.com/tv-shows/90-day-fiance
I think its for internet brides..
But our actual proper wedding is in the late summer.. but I cant work until I get a work permit which can only be granted after marriage.. and takes 2-3 months from now.
This was the visa process wedding.. we had to be married within 90 days on the visa I have.. its a strange process, so strange there's a reality TV show on it. http://www.tlc.com/tv-shows/90-day-fiance
I think its for internet brides..
But our actual proper wedding is in the late summer.. but I cant work until I get a work permit which can only be granted after marriage.. and takes 2-3 months from now.
In reply to Si Cox: Cheers for doing Fit Club Si,
Fairly quiet week from me, I turned 18 on Thursday so I was a bit preoccupied doing things that have now become legal! Still managed to fit in a couple of sessions though.
Mon - Bouldering at MCC, really hard set! Managed to flash some of the V5-6 ciruit and everything below that, but beyond that was nails! Spent quite a while working a V6 in the roof which eventually went, which is rare for me. Also managed to flash one of the V6-8 problems.
Tuesday to Saturday - no training, lots of fun.
Sun - good routes session a Stockport. Warmed up then flashed 7a, 7a+, 7a+, 7b+, 7a+, 7b+. Particularly pleased with the 7b+s as I rarely manage that at Stockport. I'd also heard that one of the 7b+s hadn't been done yet, despite having been up for a month, so that was a nice ego boost. It was a funny one, with no footholds added, and weaving around so the handholds couldn't be used for feet. Very draining, pleased to onsight.
Elbows feel fine, but that's probably just because I haven't had several bouldering sessions this week. I think the problem is an inflamed bicep tendon, so not the usual Golfer's/Tennis Elbow. The plan is to keep up the antagonistic work, keep up the strecting, and add in some massage with some Voltarol as an anti-inflammatory.
Cheers, Jake
Fairly quiet week from me, I turned 18 on Thursday so I was a bit preoccupied doing things that have now become legal! Still managed to fit in a couple of sessions though.
Mon - Bouldering at MCC, really hard set! Managed to flash some of the V5-6 ciruit and everything below that, but beyond that was nails! Spent quite a while working a V6 in the roof which eventually went, which is rare for me. Also managed to flash one of the V6-8 problems.
Tuesday to Saturday - no training, lots of fun.
Sun - good routes session a Stockport. Warmed up then flashed 7a, 7a+, 7a+, 7b+, 7a+, 7b+. Particularly pleased with the 7b+s as I rarely manage that at Stockport. I'd also heard that one of the 7b+s hadn't been done yet, despite having been up for a month, so that was a nice ego boost. It was a funny one, with no footholds added, and weaving around so the handholds couldn't be used for feet. Very draining, pleased to onsight.
Elbows feel fine, but that's probably just because I haven't had several bouldering sessions this week. I think the problem is an inflamed bicep tendon, so not the usual Golfer's/Tennis Elbow. The plan is to keep up the antagonistic work, keep up the strecting, and add in some massage with some Voltarol as an anti-inflammatory.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to mbh:
I'd go straight to a sports physio.. he may say go to the docs then to get a referral.. but that all takes time, I always just pay and get it sorted.
My missus just had cuboid syndrome and was in a lot of pain with her heal, strangely walking in high heels lessened the pain which is a key symptom so helped diagnosing and then the physio re-aligned the bones a week later and she slowly got running again.
I'd go straight to a sports physio.. he may say go to the docs then to get a referral.. but that all takes time, I always just pay and get it sorted.
My missus just had cuboid syndrome and was in a lot of pain with her heal, strangely walking in high heels lessened the pain which is a key symptom so helped diagnosing and then the physio re-aligned the bones a week later and she slowly got running again.
In reply to Si Cox:
Thanks for this Si. Didn't make it to Wales this weekend but instead got the head sorted at Froggatt in the week.
Mon - rest
Tue - Belayed Mr Fry on his new routes on the comp wall. Then cruised the 5+ easily, told him it was a 5 but he's still made it a 5+... maybe I'm improving. Rubbish on the 6a (didn't warm up oops) but took a big fall (sorted head), then got on a new 6b. Thuggy but easy. Bouldered for a while, then did foot-on campus shizzle till arms were solid.
Wed - rest
Thu - Froggatt for the first time. Onsighted a HVD. HVS, 3 Pebble Slab (what grade :yawn and soloed a VDiff. 2nded Tody's Wall, some E1 and an E3 all clean. Rained off at 2pm so went to the Climbing Works till 8pm. Was battered by the end.
Fri - Stanage. Onsighted some hideous HS thing and it was so windy that we sacked it off.
Sat - Boulder Room. Worked on steep stuff for a change V2/3. Tried a V4 and a V6. Felt good actually. Campus rail, foot on shizzle, pullups.
Sun - Boulder room. Pretty knackered but worked the V6 and a V3.
A good week actually after the despondency of the last report. Took a whopper of a fall indoors after Jordon let out some slack on purpose and that did a world of good. Froggatt was brilliant. I really like slabs and there were some crackers. Three Pebble Slab was great, the rockover onto the slab on Tody's Wall was well funky and no hands padding on Four Pebble Slab... easy seconding but I guess it would focus the mind on lead. Happily ran it out all day with a quiet head, which was a right surprise and feel like I'm back in the game.
Indoors I feel I've gone backward but I'm climbing better, certainly on the steeper stuff. It's been like re-learning how to climb again after a year away from the roof.
Gonna be a quiet couple of weeks now due to work, just hope I don't loose momentum.
Thanks for this Si. Didn't make it to Wales this weekend but instead got the head sorted at Froggatt in the week.
Mon - rest
Tue - Belayed Mr Fry on his new routes on the comp wall. Then cruised the 5+ easily, told him it was a 5 but he's still made it a 5+... maybe I'm improving. Rubbish on the 6a (didn't warm up oops) but took a big fall (sorted head), then got on a new 6b. Thuggy but easy. Bouldered for a while, then did foot-on campus shizzle till arms were solid.
Wed - rest
Thu - Froggatt for the first time. Onsighted a HVD. HVS, 3 Pebble Slab (what grade :yawn and soloed a VDiff. 2nded Tody's Wall, some E1 and an E3 all clean. Rained off at 2pm so went to the Climbing Works till 8pm. Was battered by the end.
Fri - Stanage. Onsighted some hideous HS thing and it was so windy that we sacked it off.
Sat - Boulder Room. Worked on steep stuff for a change V2/3. Tried a V4 and a V6. Felt good actually. Campus rail, foot on shizzle, pullups.
Sun - Boulder room. Pretty knackered but worked the V6 and a V3.
A good week actually after the despondency of the last report. Took a whopper of a fall indoors after Jordon let out some slack on purpose and that did a world of good. Froggatt was brilliant. I really like slabs and there were some crackers. Three Pebble Slab was great, the rockover onto the slab on Tody's Wall was well funky and no hands padding on Four Pebble Slab... easy seconding but I guess it would focus the mind on lead. Happily ran it out all day with a quiet head, which was a right surprise and feel like I'm back in the game.
Indoors I feel I've gone backward but I'm climbing better, certainly on the steeper stuff. It's been like re-learning how to climb again after a year away from the roof.
Gonna be a quiet couple of weeks now due to work, just hope I don't loose momentum.
Post edited at 20:09
In reply to AJM:
Glad to hear you're ok mate, hope none of those actuarial brains fell out the hole!
Well psyched for my trip out to see you guys now, only a month to go and cheedale is 'in' in the meantime
Si
Glad to hear you're ok mate, hope none of those actuarial brains fell out the hole!
Well psyched for my trip out to see you guys now, only a month to go and cheedale is 'in' in the meantime
Si
In reply to Si Cox:
Thanks Si,
"Dandan82 - Another well done for taking rest; did it pay of this week? How's your finger and elbows?"
Well it did and it didn't, I got back on the gym sessions at the start of the week which I had trouble getting any motivation for, it's amazing what a week off does to you! But by Wednesday I had a bit of psyche back for pumping iron which is a relief.
Thursday I went climbing and I felt super strong and super light, you know those rare sessions when you feel like you can pull on anything and your body is a floaty wafer that follows where your fingers lead? Yeah like that.
Coupled with the fact that my elbows felt better than they have in months, (whether that is due to the weeks rest or the new stretching regime I couldn't say but i'll take it as a positive regardless) means that I climbed way harder than was suitable for my dodgy finger and the next day it was really sore.
Plus points are I ticked the indoor 7b I was aiming for, it went really impressively, not so much from a technique point of view but from a strength and power endurance point of view, the first dynamic crux I somehow did static (!) with an epic undercling lock-off, and the second crux I cruised through and then calmly downclimbed and reclimbed when I got myself wrong-handed.
Also my elbows were fine the next day which is a great sign, normally after such a hard climb they would be delicate for a good couple of days afterwards so I'm hoping this is a continuing trend.
Minus points are my over-eagerness and ruined finger means I really can't climb anything hard at all between now and my Font trip in 3 weeks, and even then it's pushing it, but fingers crossed (excuse the pun) I can get some good ticks in Font.
STG: 7b redpoint. - Tick!
Stay injury free - Noo!
MTG: La Carnage as Bas Cuvier in April. - Now finger dependant
Stay injury free
LTG: 8a repdoint this year
Stay injury free!
Thanks Si,
"Dandan82 - Another well done for taking rest; did it pay of this week? How's your finger and elbows?"
Well it did and it didn't, I got back on the gym sessions at the start of the week which I had trouble getting any motivation for, it's amazing what a week off does to you! But by Wednesday I had a bit of psyche back for pumping iron which is a relief.
Thursday I went climbing and I felt super strong and super light, you know those rare sessions when you feel like you can pull on anything and your body is a floaty wafer that follows where your fingers lead? Yeah like that.
Coupled with the fact that my elbows felt better than they have in months, (whether that is due to the weeks rest or the new stretching regime I couldn't say but i'll take it as a positive regardless) means that I climbed way harder than was suitable for my dodgy finger and the next day it was really sore.
Plus points are I ticked the indoor 7b I was aiming for, it went really impressively, not so much from a technique point of view but from a strength and power endurance point of view, the first dynamic crux I somehow did static (!) with an epic undercling lock-off, and the second crux I cruised through and then calmly downclimbed and reclimbed when I got myself wrong-handed.
Also my elbows were fine the next day which is a great sign, normally after such a hard climb they would be delicate for a good couple of days afterwards so I'm hoping this is a continuing trend.
Minus points are my over-eagerness and ruined finger means I really can't climb anything hard at all between now and my Font trip in 3 weeks, and even then it's pushing it, but fingers crossed (excuse the pun) I can get some good ticks in Font.
STG: 7b redpoint. - Tick!
Stay injury free - Noo!
MTG: La Carnage as Bas Cuvier in April. - Now finger dependant
Stay injury free
LTG: 8a repdoint this year
Stay injury free!
In reply to Si Cox:
Fingers are a little better. I got a decent length ride in but was still really tired and struggling with low energy from the illness all week
STG (June of 2014):
Lead E2 try onsight
Lose 8kg
complete my bike ride
A new tick at malham
Climb harder than 6A in font
MTG (End of 2014):
7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
El Chorro
LTG (June of 2015):
Visit Kalymnos, catalunya and somewhere adventurous
This week's goals:
ride a couple of times Tick got in two rides but they were not as good as I would like.
M: Still ill
T: still ill
W: Cycled 5.6k 89m ascent. Still not well
T: Rest
F: Depot Comp. Saw Nomics. Had a good round want to see the final scores to see if I beat a friend (and Nomics but I doubt that). Tweaked a finger.
S: Rest
S: cycled 33.2km 368m Ascent wanted to do more but no energy.
Rested for a couple of hours
Holmfirth 1.5hours usual stuff repeated the crux of old lace. nice session with tweaky fingers.
Next week Goals:
Cycle a few times.
Do some thing active while away with work
Climb a couple of times.
Not the best week but I got in a decent ride thankfully.
The training for my ride is not going as well as I would like but I am getting there and even after a hilly 20 miles yesterday I feel okay this morning.
Don't suppose anyone is around pembroke on Weds-friday? I have a meeting thursday afternoon and am free the rest of the time.
Also depot tonight anyone?
> grubes - Better week this week? Did you get a ride in? How are the fingers?
Thanks Si Fingers are a little better. I got a decent length ride in but was still really tired and struggling with low energy from the illness all week
STG (June of 2014):
Lead E2 try onsight
Lose 8kg
complete my bike ride
A new tick at malham
Climb harder than 6A in font
MTG (End of 2014):
7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
El Chorro
LTG (June of 2015):
Visit Kalymnos, catalunya and somewhere adventurous
This week's goals:
ride a couple of times Tick got in two rides but they were not as good as I would like.
M: Still ill
T: still ill
W: Cycled 5.6k 89m ascent. Still not well
T: Rest
F: Depot Comp. Saw Nomics. Had a good round want to see the final scores to see if I beat a friend (and Nomics but I doubt that). Tweaked a finger.
S: Rest
S: cycled 33.2km 368m Ascent wanted to do more but no energy.
Rested for a couple of hours
Holmfirth 1.5hours usual stuff repeated the crux of old lace. nice session with tweaky fingers.
Next week Goals:
Cycle a few times.
Do some thing active while away with work
Climb a couple of times.
Not the best week but I got in a decent ride thankfully.
The training for my ride is not going as well as I would like but I am getting there and even after a hilly 20 miles yesterday I feel okay this morning.
Don't suppose anyone is around pembroke on Weds-friday? I have a meeting thursday afternoon and am free the rest of the time.
Also depot tonight anyone?
In reply to IainRUK:
I Iain I had it in my head you lived in germany? (not checked the link below)
I did not think you need a work permit to work in the EU as part of the regulations?
I Iain I had it in my head you lived in germany? (not checked the link below)
I did not think you need a work permit to work in the EU as part of the regulations?
In reply to Si Cox:
mbh - Get thee to a physio - NOW! A GP will just give you painkillers and tell you to stop running.
IainRUK - congrats on the marraige
AJM - worth buying a nice light foam helmet maybe? I have a Black Diamond Vapour and it's lovely. Glad you're ok.
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 2lbs (lost 1lbs)
M - Rest
T - 500 dish tucks, 1 min, Bring (Green) Sally Up
W - Indoor routes
T - Indoor endurance bouldering
F - Rest
S - 300 dish tucks
S - 6c (E3 5c, retrobolted) attempt
Got lots of climbing in this week. The wife was away for two days, so I made the most of them. Then went out to a local sandstone crag on Sunday and tried a 6c. Came really close on the lead, managed to get my hand on the penultimate crimp, but couldn't properly hold it. It's a 12m route, so it only has 3 bolts, so we could clip the 2nd bolt. Made an attempt on a 7a+ (old E5). Both were trad routes once upon a time, but like lots of routes in the valleys have been retrobolted. The 7a+, got up past the first bolt. Got a couple of the hard moves done. Felt like it'll be a go-er. Not a very inspring route. Either of them. But it's near by and it's good training. Need to loose more weight.
1 climb - 3 CLIMBS!!! OMG!
3 core - 2 core
3 elbows - 1 (sure I'd done more, but only one one the logbook)
3 climbs (or 1 fingerboard)
3 core
3 elbows
mbh - Get thee to a physio - NOW! A GP will just give you painkillers and tell you to stop running.
IainRUK - congrats on the marraige
AJM - worth buying a nice light foam helmet maybe? I have a Black Diamond Vapour and it's lovely. Glad you're ok.
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 2lbs (lost 1lbs)
M - Rest
T - 500 dish tucks, 1 min, Bring (Green) Sally Up
W - Indoor routes
T - Indoor endurance bouldering
F - Rest
S - 300 dish tucks
S - 6c (E3 5c, retrobolted) attempt
Got lots of climbing in this week. The wife was away for two days, so I made the most of them. Then went out to a local sandstone crag on Sunday and tried a 6c. Came really close on the lead, managed to get my hand on the penultimate crimp, but couldn't properly hold it. It's a 12m route, so it only has 3 bolts, so we could clip the 2nd bolt. Made an attempt on a 7a+ (old E5). Both were trad routes once upon a time, but like lots of routes in the valleys have been retrobolted. The 7a+, got up past the first bolt. Got a couple of the hard moves done. Felt like it'll be a go-er. Not a very inspring route. Either of them. But it's near by and it's good training. Need to loose more weight.
1 climb - 3 CLIMBS!!! OMG!
3 core - 2 core
3 elbows - 1 (sure I'd done more, but only one one the logbook)
3 climbs (or 1 fingerboard)
3 core
3 elbows
Post edited at 08:07
In reply to Si Cox:
Thanks Si.
AJM, sorry to hear about the fall. I did something similar in Spain (i.e. inverted in a fall) but luckily didn't hit the rock. I wasn't wearing a helmet but it would have stopped me getting a head injury if I had. Have you thought about a helmet?
STG: 7a+ at Malham, 7b indoors, V6 indoors.
MTG: 7a or quick 7b in Turkey and Spain
LTG: trad innit.
Mon: core and back
Tues: Stockport wall. Dogged my way up a 7a (black, nice) and a 7a+ (pink, nails). Came close to getting the 7a on my 2nd go. Busy evening, didn't get much done. Failed to get pumped.
Weds am: 5 x 4 min hill reps
Weds pm: Malham, top roped Consenting and FEE.
Thurs: 12.3km fell race route recce, 456m ascent. 8.10/km.
Fri: Malham, top roped the usual. Then Depot for the comp. 2nd LV40. Quite pleased.
Sat: core and back
Sun: 12.7km club fell race, 606m ascent. 8.13/km. 1st lady, 7th overall. Pleased with that (but I stress it was a club race so only 20 runners and only 6 or 7 ladies).
Quiet week but a good week. I'm keen to get some indoor route training done now for Turkey, I think I neded to do some laps or circuits for stamina training.
And I WILL get on lead at Malham. I WILL.
Thanks Si.
AJM, sorry to hear about the fall. I did something similar in Spain (i.e. inverted in a fall) but luckily didn't hit the rock. I wasn't wearing a helmet but it would have stopped me getting a head injury if I had. Have you thought about a helmet?
STG: 7a+ at Malham, 7b indoors, V6 indoors.
MTG: 7a or quick 7b in Turkey and Spain
LTG: trad innit.
Mon: core and back
Tues: Stockport wall. Dogged my way up a 7a (black, nice) and a 7a+ (pink, nails). Came close to getting the 7a on my 2nd go. Busy evening, didn't get much done. Failed to get pumped.
Weds am: 5 x 4 min hill reps
Weds pm: Malham, top roped Consenting and FEE.
Thurs: 12.3km fell race route recce, 456m ascent. 8.10/km.
Fri: Malham, top roped the usual. Then Depot for the comp. 2nd LV40. Quite pleased.
Sat: core and back
Sun: 12.7km club fell race, 606m ascent. 8.13/km. 1st lady, 7th overall. Pleased with that (but I stress it was a club race so only 20 runners and only 6 or 7 ladies).
Quiet week but a good week. I'm keen to get some indoor route training done now for Turkey, I think I neded to do some laps or circuits for stamina training.
And I WILL get on lead at Malham. I WILL.
In reply to mattrm, Si:
I'd signed up to do the stats next week but happy to leave it to Si do it again.
I'd signed up to do the stats next week but happy to leave it to Si do it again.
In reply to grubes:
I doubt that I got more than you (although I did have some handy beta from you which deffo helped!!). The results are up at the wall - a friend texted me to say I got 340 points.
I doubt that I got more than you (although I did have some handy beta from you which deffo helped!!). The results are up at the wall - a friend texted me to say I got 340 points.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
>1st lady, 7th overall. Pleased with that (but I stress it was a club race so only 20 runners and only 6 or 7 ladies).
Stop being so modest. First is first. Well done!
>1st lady, 7th overall. Pleased with that (but I stress it was a club race so only 20 runners and only 6 or 7 ladies).
Stop being so modest. First is first. Well done!
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Time's a wasting.... not yet April and on Sunday it was too hot in the sun. Even my heat-craving constitution was reduced to waiting until the shade came around (which felt very as we'd arrived in 2 degC temps and torrential rain).
> And I WILL get on lead at Malham. I WILL.
Time's a wasting.... not yet April and on Sunday it was too hot in the sun. Even my heat-craving constitution was reduced to waiting until the shade came around (which felt very as we'd arrived in 2 degC temps and torrential rain).
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
I know, I know! I heard it was the full 4 season experience yesterday. It was baltic on Thursday. Classic British Spring time weather, you never know what to expect!!
I know, I know! I heard it was the full 4 season experience yesterday. It was baltic on Thursday. Classic British Spring time weather, you never know what to expect!!
Post edited at 09:03
In reply to mbh:
Thanks!! But there's no false modesty, trust me .
Good to see you are getting back out there despite the foot injury. Your speed doesn't seem to have suffered much. Just make sure you stop if it gets bad again.
Thanks!! But there's no false modesty, trust me .
Good to see you are getting back out there despite the foot injury. Your speed doesn't seem to have suffered much. Just make sure you stop if it gets bad again.
In reply to mattrm:
Where are you climbing? Retrobolting, sandstone, crimps, Valleys - it sounded like it must be S Wales, and from your profile looks like it probably was.
I've been to The Gap several times and loved the style, so if you've any local info on similar venues I'd be extremely interested! And if you're ever short of a partner, I'm in Bristol so I can easily pop over.
Helen ~~~( 8:>
Where are you climbing? Retrobolting, sandstone, crimps, Valleys - it sounded like it must be S Wales, and from your profile looks like it probably was.
I've been to The Gap several times and loved the style, so if you've any local info on similar venues I'd be extremely interested! And if you're ever short of a partner, I'm in Bristol so I can easily pop over.
Helen ~~~( 8:>
In reply to hms:
I was climbing at Trebanog on a route called Ethanol
Looking at your profile, I reckon Tirpentwys would be perfect. It's 40 miles from the middle of Bristol. Good range of grades from 6a-6c, with a couple of routes in the 7s.
I'm off work next week, Weds, Thurs, Fri, so if you're free any of those days we could try and get a morning or afternoon's climbing done? It's a bit dependant on my plumber, as I still don't know which day we'll be doing the work on. Not sure about the weekend, my wife wants us to visit family and I want to do DIY. So don't think I'll be free to climb somehow. I doubt I'll ever be a reliable & regular partner, but I'm sure we can sort something out to do some routes from time to time. AJM will hopefully vouch for me being a nice person to climb with.
Links
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2812
http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tirpentwys
I was climbing at Trebanog on a route called Ethanol
Looking at your profile, I reckon Tirpentwys would be perfect. It's 40 miles from the middle of Bristol. Good range of grades from 6a-6c, with a couple of routes in the 7s.
I'm off work next week, Weds, Thurs, Fri, so if you're free any of those days we could try and get a morning or afternoon's climbing done? It's a bit dependant on my plumber, as I still don't know which day we'll be doing the work on. Not sure about the weekend, my wife wants us to visit family and I want to do DIY. So don't think I'll be free to climb somehow. I doubt I'll ever be a reliable & regular partner, but I'm sure we can sort something out to do some routes from time to time. AJM will hopefully vouch for me being a nice person to climb with.
Links
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2812
http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tirpentwys
Post edited at 09:51
In reply to hms:
Crappy UKC error checking won't let me post the links:
http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tirpentwys
and
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2812
Crappy UKC error checking won't let me post the links:
http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tirpentwys
and
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2812
In reply to Si Cox:
Cheers Si, the gala went pretty well thanks. No results to speak of, but I got some times that I was happy with. No Cheddar yet, and it's not looking on for this week either. But after that we're in BST which means evening sessions!
M - Climbing, Avon. Did a classic 3-pitch E3, which is definitely not in the restricted area (i's ok, I don't mean the bird-banned area).
T - Rest
W - Climbing, Avon (well, the New Quarry; that is, the retro-bolted bit) with hms. 2x6b+ then attempt at a 7a+. Pretty loose (hms pulled half of it down on her attempt), but I worked out the sequence (found it very hard to read!). I should tick it quickly if I'm coerced down there again :p
Evening run (8km @ 4:45/km) after finding swimming training was cancelled.
T - Climbing, UCR. About 10 routes, with more of those than I'm used to in the 6c/+ range.
F - Swimming (1.8km) following an old tradition of 'going for a paddle' a day or two before a gala.
S - Rest
S - Swimming gala, Gloucester blocks relays. 58.69 100fr in the 4x100 medley, 1:00.4 100fr in the 4x100 freestyle, 26.98 50fr in the 4x50 medley, 26.96 50fr in the 4x50 freestyle.
Swimming in a competition after a 5 year gap was a bit intimidating. Standing up on the blocks while everyone goes quiet for the start is really intense, to a level I've not experienced in any other sport. I suppose track running could be comparable? Relays aren't as bad though and there was quite an informal atmosphere at this gala, so a good way to get back into it.
I don't expect many people on here have experience of swimming times, but the context for me personally is that my PB for 100 freestyle is 57.7. I was a little way out this weekend, but I'm only training max twice per week now, as opposed to 5 when I swam that time.
Short term goals (March)
Sub-19:00 5k run.
4 days out on rock. Tick, and hopefully a couple of days in Portland coming up this weekend.
Don't embarass myself at Gloucester blocks. I think I passed this. 58.69 in 100fr and 26.98 in 50fr.
Medium term goals (March)
Stick to the training plan. 8/12 weeks down. As stated before, it's back to the 'vague outline' stage, rather than a concrete plan.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 6c
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 86/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr, 26.98 50fr
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
> Nick Russell - Did you manage to taper and rest up for your gala? How did it go? Did you get to Cheddar?
Cheers Si, the gala went pretty well thanks. No results to speak of, but I got some times that I was happy with. No Cheddar yet, and it's not looking on for this week either. But after that we're in BST which means evening sessions!
M - Climbing, Avon. Did a classic 3-pitch E3, which is definitely not in the restricted area (i's ok, I don't mean the bird-banned area).
T - Rest
W - Climbing, Avon (well, the New Quarry; that is, the retro-bolted bit) with hms. 2x6b+ then attempt at a 7a+. Pretty loose (hms pulled half of it down on her attempt), but I worked out the sequence (found it very hard to read!). I should tick it quickly if I'm coerced down there again :p
Evening run (8km @ 4:45/km) after finding swimming training was cancelled.
T - Climbing, UCR. About 10 routes, with more of those than I'm used to in the 6c/+ range.
F - Swimming (1.8km) following an old tradition of 'going for a paddle' a day or two before a gala.
S - Rest
S - Swimming gala, Gloucester blocks relays. 58.69 100fr in the 4x100 medley, 1:00.4 100fr in the 4x100 freestyle, 26.98 50fr in the 4x50 medley, 26.96 50fr in the 4x50 freestyle.
Swimming in a competition after a 5 year gap was a bit intimidating. Standing up on the blocks while everyone goes quiet for the start is really intense, to a level I've not experienced in any other sport. I suppose track running could be comparable? Relays aren't as bad though and there was quite an informal atmosphere at this gala, so a good way to get back into it.
I don't expect many people on here have experience of swimming times, but the context for me personally is that my PB for 100 freestyle is 57.7. I was a little way out this weekend, but I'm only training max twice per week now, as opposed to 5 when I swam that time.
Short term goals (March)
Sub-19:00 5k run.
4 days out on rock. Tick, and hopefully a couple of days in Portland coming up this weekend.
Don't embarass myself at Gloucester blocks. I think I passed this. 58.69 in 100fr and 26.98 in 50fr.
Medium term goals (March)
Stick to the training plan. 8/12 weeks down. As stated before, it's back to the 'vague outline' stage, rather than a concrete plan.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 6c
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 86/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr, 26.98 50fr
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
In reply to Si Cox: Hip on the mend (slightly aggravated it yesterday though) and succeeded in getting very pumped on two occasions.
MTG (Spring 2014):
8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, at Oliana
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF by Easter
- Still a way to go – few too many beers this week - 75.7kg and 6.7% BF this morning
STG (The coming week)
- Resolve hip/groin issue – getting better after lots of foam roller and tennis ball massage.
- Get more pumped!
The week just gone:
M - Rest, domesticity & an early night.
T - AWS – Aero-Power - ~50move/3.5min circuit on 45 degree board. Up V5, down V2, Link traverse, up V6, down V2, up “V3” (V5?). Each of 4 goes failed entering black “V3” after about 7c/+ worth of climbing. Aero-cap warm-down on auto-belay/traversing. Hip hurting. Shit sleep – don’t drink MP Hurricane XS after 9pm!
W - Rest.
T - Productive day working from home - AM; Fingerboard 2 (+20kg) & offset pull-ups. PM; Fruitless Aero-cap session at a very damp racecourse.
F - Aero-power – Foot-on campus. New PB – just sneaked over the 3min mark.
S - Early start, long drive, long bike ride, swift half, long drive, date, eat & drink too much, late night.
S - Knackered. Made it to the cave for afternoon. Lots of people and pads. Made the most of the pad carpet and did highball stuff in Split Infinity cave including “Bellpig” – 7C in a session
Sore right shoulder this morning. Typing this with an ice-pack strapped to it. Fingers crossed it’s just some harsh DOMS.
MTG (Spring 2014):
8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, at Oliana
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF by Easter
- Still a way to go – few too many beers this week - 75.7kg and 6.7% BF this morning
STG (The coming week)
- Resolve hip/groin issue – getting better after lots of foam roller and tennis ball massage.
- Get more pumped!
The week just gone:
M - Rest, domesticity & an early night.
T - AWS – Aero-Power - ~50move/3.5min circuit on 45 degree board. Up V5, down V2, Link traverse, up V6, down V2, up “V3” (V5?). Each of 4 goes failed entering black “V3” after about 7c/+ worth of climbing. Aero-cap warm-down on auto-belay/traversing. Hip hurting. Shit sleep – don’t drink MP Hurricane XS after 9pm!
W - Rest.
T - Productive day working from home - AM; Fingerboard 2 (+20kg) & offset pull-ups. PM; Fruitless Aero-cap session at a very damp racecourse.
F - Aero-power – Foot-on campus. New PB – just sneaked over the 3min mark.
S - Early start, long drive, long bike ride, swift half, long drive, date, eat & drink too much, late night.
S - Knackered. Made it to the cave for afternoon. Lots of people and pads. Made the most of the pad carpet and did highball stuff in Split Infinity cave including “Bellpig” – 7C in a session
Sore right shoulder this morning. Typing this with an ice-pack strapped to it. Fingers crossed it’s just some harsh DOMS.
In reply to Si Cox:
Hi Si,
I'm in an 'ugh Brookes' stage at the moment, but it is my local, and usually there Wednesdays 5-7 plus another random session in the week, then escape somewhere Alpbach, so went for volume. Also got mandatory panda tan.
Still recovering on sleep from lurgy - coughing has pinged a couple of intercostal muscles so generally sore! Think stamina may be a while coming back. However, pleased to get a good weekend in and confident I can breathe well enough to get through the stupid muddy 10k obstacle race I have next Saturday.
M to F - rest
S - Birchen 3 ships green and orange circuits in trypical Birchen wind tunnel
S - Lead Wirksworth, including a very nice 6c and eyeing up a 7a
Hi Si,
I'm in an 'ugh Brookes' stage at the moment, but it is my local, and usually there Wednesdays 5-7 plus another random session in the week, then escape somewhere Alpbach, so went for volume. Also got mandatory panda tan.
Still recovering on sleep from lurgy - coughing has pinged a couple of intercostal muscles so generally sore! Think stamina may be a while coming back. However, pleased to get a good weekend in and confident I can breathe well enough to get through the stupid muddy 10k obstacle race I have next Saturday.
M to F - rest
S - Birchen 3 ships green and orange circuits in trypical Birchen wind tunnel
S - Lead Wirksworth, including a very nice 6c and eyeing up a 7a
Post edited at 10:04
In reply to mattrm:
Nice. By next week is that w/c 31/3? If so I've got a bit of a funny week at work but can escape all day on the Wednesday. I'll email you this evening - can't use my UKC email from work.
Nice. By next week is that w/c 31/3? If so I've got a bit of a funny week at work but can escape all day on the Wednesday. I'll email you this evening - can't use my UKC email from work.
In reply to Si Cox:
Thanks for doing fit club Si - VI 7 may have to wait given I think that any winter climbing left this year will be on ice. Good session at Trowbarrow, but not on Exeguy.
Aims:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am: 1hr at wall, poorish PE / PE session. pm: 45min fell run, 40min antagonistic weights and core
T: pm: 25minutes continual 6b+ traversing grabbed between meetings
W: am: 45min road run. pm: 45min road run
T: pm: 1hr 30min PE at wall working L - R purple, 7b ish?
F: pm: 1hr reps on fingury 7a traverse
S: -
S: am: 2hrs Endurance on Red Wall, Trowbarrow - 10 x reps on the pumpy E2 to the left of Izzy the Push. Good session. pm: 3hrs gentle MTB ride with the family around the blue and bits of red at Newcastleton.
Weight this morning (still still still!) 11st 9lb
Good week training again. Going to concentrate on PE / E as I think this will give me what I need for the trad stuff I want to do and the sports will either happen or not.
Thanks for doing fit club Si - VI 7 may have to wait given I think that any winter climbing left this year will be on ice. Good session at Trowbarrow, but not on Exeguy.
Aims:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am: 1hr at wall, poorish PE / PE session. pm: 45min fell run, 40min antagonistic weights and core
T: pm: 25minutes continual 6b+ traversing grabbed between meetings
W: am: 45min road run. pm: 45min road run
T: pm: 1hr 30min PE at wall working L - R purple, 7b ish?
F: pm: 1hr reps on fingury 7a traverse
S: -
S: am: 2hrs Endurance on Red Wall, Trowbarrow - 10 x reps on the pumpy E2 to the left of Izzy the Push. Good session. pm: 3hrs gentle MTB ride with the family around the blue and bits of red at Newcastleton.
Weight this morning (still still still!) 11st 9lb
Good week training again. Going to concentrate on PE / E as I think this will give me what I need for the trad stuff I want to do and the sports will either happen or not.
In reply to grubes:
I moved to the US when my contract ended last month, my missus is in med school in NJ, so the plan was to head here at some point.
I moved to the US when my contract ended last month, my missus is in med school in NJ, so the plan was to head here at some point.
In reply to mattrm:
As in this week? I am staying Pembroke on weds and Thursday night
I have a meeting Thursday pm but could climb weds afternoon/evening or Friday morning
I can set off at stupid am weds
As in this week? I am staying Pembroke on weds and Thursday night
I have a meeting Thursday pm but could climb weds afternoon/evening or Friday morning
I can set off at stupid am weds
In reply to IainRUK:
Ah okay I missed that. Congrats on the wedding.
My friend works in Houston but can't get his wife a working visa so she has been living a life of luxury for the past 3 year
American working visas seem hard to come by.
I tried to get a job out there but fell through with the visa issues (when the company saw how much work they had to do decided not to bother)
Ah okay I missed that. Congrats on the wedding.
My friend works in Houston but can't get his wife a working visa so she has been living a life of luxury for the past 3 year
American working visas seem hard to come by.
I tried to get a job out there but fell through with the visa issues (when the company saw how much work they had to do decided not to bother)
In reply to Si Cox:
hiya.. thanks for doing FC Si.. baboo... yes been on lead for most of it last year but not got on lead this year yet.. was up for it a few days ago but had a very bad week last week.. knocked my confidence quite a bit
last week was terrible in terms of any climbing psyche or progress.. infact my climbing was just as bad as it was in Spain last month.. I can see why... relationship ended, house move, averaging 2 hours sleep per night for about two and a half months up until recently... messing about all over the dales and the lake district
my levels of fitness are great .. i'm packing in loads of training.. being consistent.. i'm getting enough climbing sesisons in but the quality of my climbing is poor.. i'm lacking power, commitment to moves and running out of psyche very soon into session
i had my first session at stockport last week after work.. totally up for it... but got there and felt rubbish.. the climbing felt powerful and intense.. loads shorter in comparisn to kendal... i also didn't feel as confident with the falls... and my wrist was sore all night because i was climbing fingery stuff as opposed to steep juggy stuff at Kendal..
i did a session at Malham on thursday... total ass kicking on Baboo... the week before was so inspiring.. and I planned on the next session being about getting back on lead on it.. but i was freezing all session, stiff and uninspired.. so TR'd it three times .. which was painful (told myself it is still mileage and still good for me.. hmmm )
session at ambleside boudering wall on friday...really enjoyed it.. good focussed 2 hour session.. good music.. had a mix of climbing problems.. did okish.. and worked quite a bit on PE.. with easier steep problems thrown in when i was tired.
additional stuff...
5x core workouts
3 x bike (gym) interval training sessions- good work rate
2x weight training workouts including usual pull ups.
2x fell running sessions... (friday..nab scar, heron pike, fairfield and then reversed.. good pace.. no niggling injuries. Saturday -harrison stickle via stickle ghyll/tarn.. some extra ascent due to a bit of lapping .. as strange woman with dog came out too .. again body felt good... just walked/trotted back down whilst carrying a snowed up yorkshire terrier)
sunday- gym workput... intervals on cross trainer, weights and core.. forarms tired from boudlering on friday
aims for this week:
-settle on one/two indoor training venues as I can't afford to keep climbing at lots of random places and it's difficlut to measure progress
-do more bouldering and have intense/focussed sessions that i enjoy.. go with how I feel for a while
-unpack and try and settle into the new house (north manchester).. which probably means stop touring the dales and the lakes ... for a week or two..climb locally.. MTbing locally
-take mum out for mother's day
-sleep
-stretch
PPG
hiya.. thanks for doing FC Si.. baboo... yes been on lead for most of it last year but not got on lead this year yet.. was up for it a few days ago but had a very bad week last week.. knocked my confidence quite a bit
last week was terrible in terms of any climbing psyche or progress.. infact my climbing was just as bad as it was in Spain last month.. I can see why... relationship ended, house move, averaging 2 hours sleep per night for about two and a half months up until recently... messing about all over the dales and the lake district
my levels of fitness are great .. i'm packing in loads of training.. being consistent.. i'm getting enough climbing sesisons in but the quality of my climbing is poor.. i'm lacking power, commitment to moves and running out of psyche very soon into session
i had my first session at stockport last week after work.. totally up for it... but got there and felt rubbish.. the climbing felt powerful and intense.. loads shorter in comparisn to kendal... i also didn't feel as confident with the falls... and my wrist was sore all night because i was climbing fingery stuff as opposed to steep juggy stuff at Kendal..
i did a session at Malham on thursday... total ass kicking on Baboo... the week before was so inspiring.. and I planned on the next session being about getting back on lead on it.. but i was freezing all session, stiff and uninspired.. so TR'd it three times .. which was painful (told myself it is still mileage and still good for me.. hmmm )
session at ambleside boudering wall on friday...really enjoyed it.. good focussed 2 hour session.. good music.. had a mix of climbing problems.. did okish.. and worked quite a bit on PE.. with easier steep problems thrown in when i was tired.
additional stuff...
5x core workouts
3 x bike (gym) interval training sessions- good work rate
2x weight training workouts including usual pull ups.
2x fell running sessions... (friday..nab scar, heron pike, fairfield and then reversed.. good pace.. no niggling injuries. Saturday -harrison stickle via stickle ghyll/tarn.. some extra ascent due to a bit of lapping .. as strange woman with dog came out too .. again body felt good... just walked/trotted back down whilst carrying a snowed up yorkshire terrier)
sunday- gym workput... intervals on cross trainer, weights and core.. forarms tired from boudlering on friday
aims for this week:
-settle on one/two indoor training venues as I can't afford to keep climbing at lots of random places and it's difficlut to measure progress
-do more bouldering and have intense/focussed sessions that i enjoy.. go with how I feel for a while
-unpack and try and settle into the new house (north manchester).. which probably means stop touring the dales and the lakes ... for a week or two..climb locally.. MTbing locally
-take mum out for mother's day
-sleep
-stretch
PPG
In reply to Nomics4sale:
well done with the results for the bouldering comp and the fell race.. really really good
good to see you doing two core sessions in one week.... wit wooo!!!!
well done with the results for the bouldering comp and the fell race.. really really good
good to see you doing two core sessions in one week.... wit wooo!!!!
In reply to AJM:
bloody hell mate.. lucky escape.. glad you're ok... and well done for getting back on rock as soon as could
bloody hell mate.. lucky escape.. glad you're ok... and well done for getting back on rock as soon as could
In reply to Si Cox:
Thanks for starting FC this week.
M - Fingerboard session. Quite good one too.
T - 30 mins run.
W - Outside climbing on project. Couple of decent attempts, but still failing at random points on crux.
T - 30 mins run.
F - Resting.
S - Power endurance session on home woody.
S - Outside climbing on project. Was rubbish. Couldn't really be arsed. Oh well...
Thanks for starting FC this week.
M - Fingerboard session. Quite good one too.
T - 30 mins run.
W - Outside climbing on project. Couple of decent attempts, but still failing at random points on crux.
T - 30 mins run.
F - Resting.
S - Power endurance session on home woody.
S - Outside climbing on project. Was rubbish. Couldn't really be arsed. Oh well...
In reply to grubes:
Thanks, happened fast, we were in limbo for months and then suddenly we went from having an interview date to me moving 12 days later.
We did a K1 visa, which should be OK for a job.. I should get a green card in 2 months and conditional permanent residency for 2 years and then citizenship.
Thanks, happened fast, we were in limbo for months and then suddenly we went from having an interview date to me moving 12 days later.
We did a K1 visa, which should be OK for a job.. I should get a green card in 2 months and conditional permanent residency for 2 years and then citizenship.
In reply to pork pie girl:
cheers PPG. yep, chuffed . Core, well that only cos I wasn't doing anything else. Abs of steel now. Well, nearly. Ish.
cheers PPG. yep, chuffed . Core, well that only cos I wasn't doing anything else. Abs of steel now. Well, nearly. Ish.
In reply to pork pie girl:
Ah right - it was you i saw briefly at Stockport this week. I was running late so sorry i didn't stop to say hello.
Stockport tends to hand out a good spanking for me fairly often. 7b OS there equates to 7c/+ OS outdoor fitness for me.
Have you considered that the lack of sleep might be contributing to the your head issues? I hope you can settle in the new house and crush Baboo when you're back and psyched for it. (p.s. Mark ticked it this weekend - 4 year project complete for him!)
Ah right - it was you i saw briefly at Stockport this week. I was running late so sorry i didn't stop to say hello.
Stockport tends to hand out a good spanking for me fairly often. 7b OS there equates to 7c/+ OS outdoor fitness for me.
Have you considered that the lack of sleep might be contributing to the your head issues? I hope you can settle in the new house and crush Baboo when you're back and psyched for it. (p.s. Mark ticked it this weekend - 4 year project complete for him!)
In reply to mattrm:
Probably better actually - I can be around any time on Friday this week if that would work. Thought I had something arranged but it fell through, so was wondering what to do!
Probably better actually - I can be around any time on Friday this week if that would work. Thought I had something arranged but it fell through, so was wondering what to do!
In reply to pork pie girl:
Hope life sorts itself now you've got a new base.
As has been pointed out sleep is what you need I think!
Hope life sorts itself now you've got a new base.
As has been pointed out sleep is what you need I think!
In reply to Nomics4sale & mattrm & everyone else:
Cheers to all the well wishers!
Nomics and matt particularly - I've got a meteor of one model or another already. I have noticed though that regardless of the medium (bolts or trad) if I climb with double ropes and a helmet I climb defensively, as if I was trad climbing, and if I climb on a single rope without a helmet I climb positively and aggressively like I'm sport climbing. Its a weird mental association thing!
So that's why I generally don't wear a helmet sport climbing unless I think I particularly need to, which is generally multipitch or more vertical terrain. On all metrics the route would have passed any test for "safe enough to leave it behind" that I can think of - there are no ledges, it's well bolted, it's continuously overhanging, the likely falls are from high up - you get what I mean!
It's something I'll be thinking about more in future, I'm sure, but I'm not sure what the conclusion is likely to be given the nature of the route and the fact that I don't really want to start wearing one all the time if I can avoid it. We shall see.
In other news, despondency has been replaced by fresh hope. 3 trips up today including the first actual redpoint. I've now managed to go from the ground up into the middle of the crux (for the one person who actually knows the route, I've been falling off adjusting my body position to slap for the good bit of the tufa), and I've gone from the base of the crux to the chains. So, barring 2 quickdraws that were already clipped above me on the second link, that's overlapping halves. Improved sequence for the crux, although as yet I've not actually done this precise sequence in a link from the ground - the one redpoint go I had I moved hands before feet, cocked up and so fell off.
I'm sure Ally can probably correct my wildly erroneous attempts to break it down into segments, but I'm guessing its a 7b/+ including quite a hard move from the ground to some better holds at the base of the crux (~15m) where you can shake out (although I'm struggling to fully recover my right hand), followed by a V4/5 boulder problem on some slopy holds of half a dozen moves or so including a final slap to get some better holds including a sidepull pocket-jug on the tufa, and then ~10m of pumpy tufas, then a rest and a little sting in the tail roof. For that top 15m or so, I really don't know, ~7a maybe? Hard to say, it's not that hard but the feet are all sideways on the tufa pipes and the holds are all sidepulls so when you're already pumped.....
Oh, and mattrm grunts like a female tennis player when he tries hard and hms needs to be continually pushed to try harder, but other than that you're both lovely people to climb with
Andy
Cheers to all the well wishers!
Nomics and matt particularly - I've got a meteor of one model or another already. I have noticed though that regardless of the medium (bolts or trad) if I climb with double ropes and a helmet I climb defensively, as if I was trad climbing, and if I climb on a single rope without a helmet I climb positively and aggressively like I'm sport climbing. Its a weird mental association thing!
So that's why I generally don't wear a helmet sport climbing unless I think I particularly need to, which is generally multipitch or more vertical terrain. On all metrics the route would have passed any test for "safe enough to leave it behind" that I can think of - there are no ledges, it's well bolted, it's continuously overhanging, the likely falls are from high up - you get what I mean!
It's something I'll be thinking about more in future, I'm sure, but I'm not sure what the conclusion is likely to be given the nature of the route and the fact that I don't really want to start wearing one all the time if I can avoid it. We shall see.
In other news, despondency has been replaced by fresh hope. 3 trips up today including the first actual redpoint. I've now managed to go from the ground up into the middle of the crux (for the one person who actually knows the route, I've been falling off adjusting my body position to slap for the good bit of the tufa), and I've gone from the base of the crux to the chains. So, barring 2 quickdraws that were already clipped above me on the second link, that's overlapping halves. Improved sequence for the crux, although as yet I've not actually done this precise sequence in a link from the ground - the one redpoint go I had I moved hands before feet, cocked up and so fell off.
I'm sure Ally can probably correct my wildly erroneous attempts to break it down into segments, but I'm guessing its a 7b/+ including quite a hard move from the ground to some better holds at the base of the crux (~15m) where you can shake out (although I'm struggling to fully recover my right hand), followed by a V4/5 boulder problem on some slopy holds of half a dozen moves or so including a final slap to get some better holds including a sidepull pocket-jug on the tufa, and then ~10m of pumpy tufas, then a rest and a little sting in the tail roof. For that top 15m or so, I really don't know, ~7a maybe? Hard to say, it's not that hard but the feet are all sideways on the tufa pipes and the holds are all sidepulls so when you're already pumped.....
Oh, and mattrm grunts like a female tennis player when he tries hard and hms needs to be continually pushed to try harder, but other than that you're both lovely people to climb with
Andy
In reply to AJM:
That's proper bo!
Glad you've made progress - i thought the "sting in the tail" was a right arse with my fat fingers. 7a might be a bit tight fisted on the grading too - you must be getting lots back with your knee wedged in that tufa?
How far right are you going on the flake for a rest? I remember it felt a bit run out where i was shaking out, so it must've been pretty far over! (Belayer and other folk encouraged this behaviour so it's not like i'm telling you to cheat!)
SMASH IT!
That's proper bo!
Glad you've made progress - i thought the "sting in the tail" was a right arse with my fat fingers. 7a might be a bit tight fisted on the grading too - you must be getting lots back with your knee wedged in that tufa?
How far right are you going on the flake for a rest? I remember it felt a bit run out where i was shaking out, so it must've been pretty far over! (Belayer and other folk encouraged this behaviour so it's not like i'm telling you to cheat!)
SMASH IT!
In reply to AJM:
I've been practicing and I'm managing to turn the grunts into proper power screams now. Sounds much less dumb. Still wish I could stop them all together.
I sport climb with my nice light foam helmet on and it doesn't seem to slow me down. But I can see where you're coming from with that.
To echo Ally - SMASH IT!!!
I've been practicing and I'm managing to turn the grunts into proper power screams now. Sounds much less dumb. Still wish I could stop them all together.
I sport climb with my nice light foam helmet on and it doesn't seem to slow me down. But I can see where you're coming from with that.
To echo Ally - SMASH IT!!!
In reply to Si Cox:
M: Boulder UK, short session.
T: Stockport routes, got properly tired.
W: lazy
T: Stockport routes, partner was coming down with something, I'd been feeling woozy all day so called it a day after a handful of routes. In retrospect I caved too early but knew I had a big work week coming up so was uncharacteristically cautious
F: Lazy
S: it's getting embarrassing now - lazy
S: Malham, managed to get a new tick and something to warm up on upper tier. Too hot for my goes on my project to be productive. Last go was in the shade and despite screaming skin did a good link. Going to have to get on the crux properly now, I've been avoiding it because my finger is knackered.
M: Boulder UK, short session.
T: Stockport routes, got properly tired.
W: lazy
T: Stockport routes, partner was coming down with something, I'd been feeling woozy all day so called it a day after a handful of routes. In retrospect I caved too early but knew I had a big work week coming up so was uncharacteristically cautious
F: Lazy
S: it's getting embarrassing now - lazy
S: Malham, managed to get a new tick and something to warm up on upper tier. Too hot for my goes on my project to be productive. Last go was in the shade and despite screaming skin did a good link. Going to have to get on the crux properly now, I've been avoiding it because my finger is knackered.
Post edited at 23:47
In reply to grubes:
grubes - Would be interested in Pembroke on Wednesday. But currently at the mercy of the plumber. He's supposed to be coming round Weds/Thurs/Fri, but still don't have a date/time for it.
Not sure what the Army Firing times are at the moment. They aren't always open during the day during the week, but it varies.
If you're travelling up on Wednesday, then could you stop off at the Gower if the range is closed?
grubes - Would be interested in Pembroke on Wednesday. But currently at the mercy of the plumber. He's supposed to be coming round Weds/Thurs/Fri, but still don't have a date/time for it.
Not sure what the Army Firing times are at the moment. They aren't always open during the day during the week, but it varies.
If you're travelling up on Wednesday, then could you stop off at the Gower if the range is closed?
In reply to mattrm:
Hi Matt
Really I am up for anything. never Climbed on the gower not done much at pembroke.
It would be good if you could let me know asap if you can get out as it will affect what I do.
E-mail me through here and I will give you my mobile number.
I am setting off at 6 so will be in south wales for late morning depending on traffic.
Hi Matt
Really I am up for anything. never Climbed on the gower not done much at pembroke.
It would be good if you could let me know asap if you can get out as it will affect what I do.
E-mail me through here and I will give you my mobile number.
I am setting off at 6 so will be in south wales for late morning depending on traffic.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
I got 759 overall but sure I got more points on some of the earlier rounds
Nomics got 795 overall
on the night:
I got 328. So I should of beaten her if not for my stupid drops on 12, 10 and 21
Nomics got 340
> I doubt that I got more than you (although I did have some handy beta from you which deffo helped!!). The results are up at the wall - a friend texted me to say I got 340 points.
I got 759 overall but sure I got more points on some of the earlier rounds
Nomics got 795 overall
on the night:
I got 328. So I should of beaten her if not for my stupid drops on 12, 10 and 21
Nomics got 340
In reply to grubes:
Mwah ha ha ha! You'll just have to try harder next time grubius and not drop the easy drop knee moves and more importantly keep your beta to yourself and even more importantly cheat like a lanky f*cker!
Mwah ha ha ha! You'll just have to try harder next time grubius and not drop the easy drop knee moves and more importantly keep your beta to yourself and even more importantly cheat like a lanky f*cker!
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Effort. I was down there on Friday evening too; nice set of problems for the final. I might actually consider entering properly next time.
> Then Depot for the comp. 2nd LV40. Quite pleased.
Effort. I was down there on Friday evening too; nice set of problems for the final. I might actually consider entering properly next time.
In reply to AJM:
Glad to see from your update you're doing OK. I've done the same but hit the rock bum first, it bloody hurt.
Had a discussion in Chorro about helmets/sport climbing. I said at the time I probably should. I've hd more near misses sport climbing than trading. Whether I will or not......
Glad to see from your update you're doing OK. I've done the same but hit the rock bum first, it bloody hurt.
Had a discussion in Chorro about helmets/sport climbing. I said at the time I probably should. I've hd more near misses sport climbing than trading. Whether I will or not......
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Great results ! You can only beat who's there.
Fell club runners tend to be pretty hardcore so take the pat on the back.
I've just been introduced to pyramid sets today. They hurt, even more than the patented Eagle River/The Fox doubles system. I'm back with some psyche now so I'm sure I'll see you down AW soon.
Great results ! You can only beat who's there.
Fell club runners tend to be pretty hardcore so take the pat on the back.
I've just been introduced to pyramid sets today. They hurt, even more than the patented Eagle River/The Fox doubles system. I'm back with some psyche now so I'm sure I'll see you down AW soon.
In reply to Si Cox:
Cheers Si
No, I've not started the periodized training yet. In the olden days it was lots of easy base work to start. Perfect to heal my fingers. This is straight into strength and intense work. Ho hum !
Only 1 session of climbing done. Worried about fingers and not much psyche, v tired. Did 30 odd problems fromV0 to V4.. Flashed all but 2. Felt pretty empty so stopped there. Anything harder than that hurt my fingers.
On the plus side I did 3 good bike rides:
28 miles 1300ft ascent in 2hr 20m
11 miles 600ft ascent in 50 min
39 miles 2400ft ascent in 3hr 17min
So climbing psyche was low. Didn't try to force it and had a really good session today on routes. Cruising stuff I would have found tricky a while ago. But thats for next week's report.
Not sure how lots of easy routes in Chorro followed by time off = improved performance but I'll take it.
Cheers Si
No, I've not started the periodized training yet. In the olden days it was lots of easy base work to start. Perfect to heal my fingers. This is straight into strength and intense work. Ho hum !
Only 1 session of climbing done. Worried about fingers and not much psyche, v tired. Did 30 odd problems fromV0 to V4.. Flashed all but 2. Felt pretty empty so stopped there. Anything harder than that hurt my fingers.
On the plus side I did 3 good bike rides:
28 miles 1300ft ascent in 2hr 20m
11 miles 600ft ascent in 50 min
39 miles 2400ft ascent in 3hr 17min
So climbing psyche was low. Didn't try to force it and had a really good session today on routes. Cruising stuff I would have found tricky a while ago. But thats for next week's report.
Not sure how lots of easy routes in Chorro followed by time off = improved performance but I'll take it.
In reply to Si Cox: Cheers Si, even close to Firestarter last week, didn't think it was possible to get closer without actually doing it...
Pretty bad week overall due to illness, me, the little one and my partner have all been ill since last Tuesday. Still feeling it today a week on, it's on my chest and keeping me feeling run down.
Monday: Evening Session:
3 x 20 Degree sloper deadhang (10secs)
5 x 35 Degree sloper deadhang (6secs)
30 Mins Aerocap
Tuesday: Headtorch session at Pantymwyn
Fell off the juggy spike going for the finishing jug on Firestarter (7A) 4 times. Shouldn't be falling off there at all...
Had a bad chesty cough and felt run down suprised to get so close really...!
Wednesday: ill
Thursday: ill
Friday: ill
Saturday: Felt ill but went out anyway (Bad idea in hindsight)
Cave Session - Had a few goes on Right Wall Traverse (7A), keep falling off half way up the 6B problem at the end.
Came close on The Pillar Start (7A) falling off the last move, not sure how to do it...
Had a quick go on the first couple of moves on the Shothole Start to Left Wall Trav, no progress there.
Went around to Pill Box to try and finish off Where's My Hippo (7A) and got shut down by freezing cold wind. Almost lost my pad to the sea... Called it a day as I felt really ill, got home and felt worse and slept...
Sunday: ill
Pretty bad week overall due to illness, me, the little one and my partner have all been ill since last Tuesday. Still feeling it today a week on, it's on my chest and keeping me feeling run down.
Monday: Evening Session:
3 x 20 Degree sloper deadhang (10secs)
5 x 35 Degree sloper deadhang (6secs)
30 Mins Aerocap
Tuesday: Headtorch session at Pantymwyn
Fell off the juggy spike going for the finishing jug on Firestarter (7A) 4 times. Shouldn't be falling off there at all...
Had a bad chesty cough and felt run down suprised to get so close really...!
Wednesday: ill
Thursday: ill
Friday: ill
Saturday: Felt ill but went out anyway (Bad idea in hindsight)
Cave Session - Had a few goes on Right Wall Traverse (7A), keep falling off half way up the 6B problem at the end.
Came close on The Pillar Start (7A) falling off the last move, not sure how to do it...
Had a quick go on the first couple of moves on the Shothole Start to Left Wall Trav, no progress there.
Went around to Pill Box to try and finish off Where's My Hippo (7A) and got shut down by freezing cold wind. Almost lost my pad to the sea... Called it a day as I felt really ill, got home and felt worse and slept...
Sunday: ill
In reply to Ally Smith:
7a is guesswork not tightfistedness! I'm getting some back but by no means full recovery.
The rest below the crux - I'm going to the big pocket about 3 feet right of the tufa. Sounds like you might have been over on the next route in the niche?
2 redpoints today, managed to hit but not hold the tufa just below its pocket jug one go, foot slipped on that move on the other. So consistently up to the setup for the throw and once making the throw so far. And improved some beta too. There's an American girl we have met who is trying it too which is good for beta sharing, despite wildly different heights...
7a is guesswork not tightfistedness! I'm getting some back but by no means full recovery.
The rest below the crux - I'm going to the big pocket about 3 feet right of the tufa. Sounds like you might have been over on the next route in the niche?
2 redpoints today, managed to hit but not hold the tufa just below its pocket jug one go, foot slipped on that move on the other. So consistently up to the setup for the throw and once making the throw so far. And improved some beta too. There's an American girl we have met who is trying it too which is good for beta sharing, despite wildly different heights...
In reply to Si Cox: Cheers for fit club report. Sanity is being maintained by a head in the sand do loads of work approach mainly. Did watch a climbing film for a boost the other night though (Exposure Vol 1, 6 quid on I tunes and quite good). Quiet week, just a couple of jogs, but speeding up.
M:
T:
W:
T: Run 3.8 miles @ 9.13
F:
S: Run 3.8 miles@ 8.48
S:
STG: Not go stir crazy while on a 2 month visit to Penn State University
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
M:
T:
W:
T: Run 3.8 miles @ 9.13
F:
S: Run 3.8 miles@ 8.48
S:
STG: Not go stir crazy while on a 2 month visit to Penn State University
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
In reply to Si Cox:
Had a couple weeks off due to exhaustion from ridiculous work hours among other things.
Back on track this week!
Mon: 4.5km run and chest back shoulder arm session at gym.
Tue: leg day
Wed: rest
Thursday: bouldering. Circuit at f6+ on 10deg slant and f7b on the 30deg along with a handful on v3s and a v4 from the comp problems. First one at v4!!
Soud
Had a couple weeks off due to exhaustion from ridiculous work hours among other things.
Back on track this week!
Mon: 4.5km run and chest back shoulder arm session at gym.
Tue: leg day
Wed: rest
Thursday: bouldering. Circuit at f6+ on 10deg slant and f7b on the 30deg along with a handful on v3s and a v4 from the comp problems. First one at v4!!
Soud
In reply to Si Cox:
Hi all,
Finally my turn to update on last week, but firstly just wanted to say it was good fun doing the stats and getting to know people better. Definitely gives you more of a sense of connection when you do the round-up.
Anyway, headline for me is that I am in a bit of a doldrum. Really lacking motivation at the wall, struggling to find a general routine and kick the lower back pain.
I think partly I've plateaued at the wall after a great start last October. I'd never trained consistently indoors before then, so think I've now made the biggest gains I'll see. Anything more is going to be a lot harder graft.
All the same, it was helpful to read Dave MacLoed's '9 Out of 10 Climbers' for some tips and inspiration in this area. Wall will be rerouted soon, which is good, as the problems seem to have been up for ages.
With a third baby on the way for August, any ongoing goals are going to have to be realistic for the long term, so I would say:
- Throw in some variation outside wall, either extra run or swim
- Force myself to keep expectations up on by pushing myself on harder problems
- Introduce drills and exercises to keep technical ability up
- Try and fit in some trad somewhere or another; always good for the soul!
P.S. Messaged Nomics4Sale, as I am unable to do next week's round-up, but will put my name down again soon
Hi all,
Finally my turn to update on last week, but firstly just wanted to say it was good fun doing the stats and getting to know people better. Definitely gives you more of a sense of connection when you do the round-up.
Anyway, headline for me is that I am in a bit of a doldrum. Really lacking motivation at the wall, struggling to find a general routine and kick the lower back pain.
I think partly I've plateaued at the wall after a great start last October. I'd never trained consistently indoors before then, so think I've now made the biggest gains I'll see. Anything more is going to be a lot harder graft.
All the same, it was helpful to read Dave MacLoed's '9 Out of 10 Climbers' for some tips and inspiration in this area. Wall will be rerouted soon, which is good, as the problems seem to have been up for ages.
With a third baby on the way for August, any ongoing goals are going to have to be realistic for the long term, so I would say:
- Throw in some variation outside wall, either extra run or swim
- Force myself to keep expectations up on by pushing myself on harder problems
- Introduce drills and exercises to keep technical ability up
- Try and fit in some trad somewhere or another; always good for the soul!
P.S. Messaged Nomics4Sale, as I am unable to do next week's round-up, but will put my name down again soon
In reply to Si Cox:
Sneaking in just before the deadline - work has been manic.
M: lunchtime 5/6M easy in 39:05, pm - 6/7M easy in 50:26
Tu: am - 5M road loop easy in 34:26, pm 9M steady in 58:19
W: pm - session 3x(3min, 2min, 1min) off 1min and 2min between sets. 9/10M total
Th: pm - 5M easy in 36:18, pm - felt tired no run
F: lunchtime 40mins easy bike, felt tired
Sa: am - session on grass 2x4min, 2x3min, 2x2min, 2x1min, 2x1/2min off 2min jog (at a good pace). 9/10M total, pm - 5M easy in 32:12 finished strong, felt good
Su: am - 15M offroad in 1:44:21
~70M total.
Sneaking in just before the deadline - work has been manic.
M: lunchtime 5/6M easy in 39:05, pm - 6/7M easy in 50:26
Tu: am - 5M road loop easy in 34:26, pm 9M steady in 58:19
W: pm - session 3x(3min, 2min, 1min) off 1min and 2min between sets. 9/10M total
Th: pm - 5M easy in 36:18, pm - felt tired no run
F: lunchtime 40mins easy bike, felt tired
Sa: am - session on grass 2x4min, 2x3min, 2x2min, 2x1min, 2x1/2min off 2min jog (at a good pace). 9/10M total, pm - 5M easy in 32:12 finished strong, felt good
Su: am - 15M offroad in 1:44:21
~70M total.
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