UKC

UKc Fit Club week 401

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 AJM 23 Nov 2014
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=602762
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/93112350 - Steph was the person I was working Latido with back in March, so it was good to find this random video on the net...


I think the final Portland list for 10/11 jan was looking like:

> ## Definite - wild horses couldn't drag me away
AJM
Mrchewy
Hms +1

> ## Probably coming
Kevster
Curious Yellow
Nick R
mattrm
Dandan+some
Just Tintin +1

> ## I'll come if it's sunny

AJM - committed to stupid CV exercise. Still feeling strong though.
hms - progress on the 7c?
mattrm - loving Marocco
mbh - couple of long weekend slogs there!
Exile - solid week, sticking with the plan
Joughton - decided where to go yet?
williemiller - good job on the race
Kevster - how was the comp? Progress on the 8b? Sounds like good 7s mileage even if some excuses too
Dandan82 - finger any better - have you decided what to do about your coaching session?
Quiddity - pulling hard indoors and leading people astray into the temptations of cycling...
JimmyKay - good job on the comp. sounds like a fun weekend too!
Creedence - I don't think you'll find the moves too bad on a 7a outside
Ally Smith - assessment good - what does the winter hold?
IainRUK - what's the next big race for you?
mrchewy - I've always found that rising traverse to the rest awkward too
Humperdink - how did the race go?
Nick Russell - I gather you had a better week this week?
Luke Owens - definitely getting towards that suntrap sort of time of year!
Just Tintin - no idea actually, I didn't go that often because it was logistically easier to meet my other half at the station in Gloucester and then head off towards Huntsham if I was bouldering. I used to enjoy spring and summer evenings at Huntsham.
 Kevster 23 Nov 2014
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy.

Slim week - Tuesday indoors: Mostly new routes, with a little stamina stuff.

Saturday comp (Reach). OS all the lead routes - they only went to 7a, 5 others managed this too. OS all the top rope routes (except an embarrassing pop off on a 6b) - which went to 7a+.
Decider was their eliminator round. I fell going for the hold which another competitor managed to hold, then fell off. Pretty much the top 4 all fell at exactly the same place - well clipping point. I got a prize for something I think, didn't stick around to find out. Pleased, but frustrated as the ques were too long for each comp route so made progress slow and never actually felt like I was warmed up/flowing/found my rhythm.
Didn't try any boulder problems as I ran out of time.
Still, did OK.

This week: Hopefully indoors 3 times as outside seems to be suffering with wet at the moment. Would love a day at Brean to get Chillula ticked and start a 7c. I may try Andy's beta for the move I keep fluffing.

Cheers, Kev.
 Nick Russell 23 Nov 2014
In reply to AJM:
> Nick Russell - I gather you had a better week this week?

Yeah, I guess so. I got outside, so that's an improvement.

M - Bouldering (at Vauxwall - in London for an interview). Ticked a V7, though either that was really soft or all the V6, V5 and V4 problems were really undergraded.
T - Rest.
W - Gym. Induction plus short session of squats, chest and core.
T - Brean with hms. Had 3 attempts at Chulilla. Should go next time if I get everything right.
F - Rest
S - Nothing. Vague plans to attempt a short run never came to fruition.
S - Routes at UCR. 3 attempts on a 7a+... Positive crimps all the way up until the penultimate bolt, then slopey crimp, cross over to slopey crimp, clip from positive hold, pop to the top. Came off on the crossover on 2nd and 3rd attempts. Tweaked some beta lower down though, so maybe I can arrive fresher. None of the moves are too hard in isolation.

My knee has been bothering me while climbing now, mostly on moves (e.g. heel hooks) that put torsion through it. My plan is to build up some strength with some squats, try the foam roller thing suggested by Humperdink and see if it goes away. If not I guess I'll be spending more money on a physio. It's annoying and definitely not helping motivation.

2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7c (2 of these now)
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 9, clean onsight: 1 (+3 others I feel I've 'succeeded' on, one way or another)
Trad: Staffs NIAD. Hahaha, had a go. Failed due to a "navigation" error.
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 381/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 (26.3*) 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*, 1:09.58 100 IM
*Relay splits


Short-term goals
  • Get the knee better
    Action plan: stretch legs morning and evening, roll ITB when at gym or TCA, build strength with squats
  • Local sport routes 7c and above (or onsights 7a+ and above)
    I'd be surprised if I tick another route at this level before the end of the year
  •  hms 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Thanks Andy. No haven't been back to the 7c circuit this week. Did get a lot done though:

    M - cycle commute. Fingerboard in evening - 1xeasy set, 2xhard set
    T - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Not that many routes but did include umpteen pretty much back-to-back tries on a 7a that was bugging me.
    W - cycle commute.
    T - Brean with Nick. 2 TR goes on Chulilla then a lead attempt. 1 fall towards end of crux seq so pretty chuffed actually.
    F - cycle commute.
    S - UCR easier circuits to warm up then bouldering for about an hour.
    S - UCR routes. 1x6a+, 1x6b, 5x6c, 3x7a. Horribly busy so failed to get on either 7b. Did tick the 7a that was bugging me (with great ease, now I've actually thought about the feet!). Then TRX 1xupper 1xcore when we got home.

    This coming week is likely to be messy with lots of family shizzle getting in the way of climbing anything, hence trying to get a lot done last week.
     Exile 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Thanks for doing fit club Andy.

    Aims:

    Autumn: (Soft) 7b RP(?) and be fighting fit for the winter season as soon as it kicks off.

    Winter start with VI 7

    Spring second 7b RP

    Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade

    Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

    M: 1hr road (winter endurance) 1hr wall - (An Cap)
    T: 1hr fell run (winter endurance)1hr 30 min wall (strength training)
    W: Rest - away with work
    T: 20min wall - felt really tired so went home and decided to take some rest days
    F: Rest
    S: Rest
    S: 45min dry tooling (Winter technique and ARC)

    Weight: Not sure

    Felt tired - need to make sure I'm getting quality sleep.
    OP AJM 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to hms:

    > lots of family shizzle

    I love the fact you've managed to throw the word "shizzle" in there

    Not a bad week for me. Not super high volume, parents here at the weekend. Beer got in the way too - bottling our first batch, a nice dark iPa, and this evening putting a second brew on which is going to be some sort of spiced Christmassy sort of thing.

    Got out x4 on the bike so 32 miles in. Signed up for the 63 mile Jurassic Beast in May. Gonna have to make 4-5 cycles per week a fixed goal and also try and do a few longer mileage days some point too. Oh, and get a road bike!

    2 Boulder sessions.
    - Got my purple project on the first session (on Tues) - minor YYFY moment as I'd probably fallen off the move about 50 times over 3 sessions. Good steep heel and toe trickery, very pleased with that. Did a bunch of other good stuff too.
    - Wed I did a bunch of other cool problems, including a few I had to try fairly hard for, and got on the circuit board at the end and made progress on the yellow circuit, which is good. Felt wrecked Thursday so I must have dug in pretty hard.

    Going to try and hit the wall hard this week, then double rest day Friday and Saturday before day of judgement on Sunday. Will try and focus on some circuits I think.
    Try and cycle most days too and maybe eat relatively clean - I'm still a bit heavy but I don't actually really know if some of that is extra muscle as well as extra flab.

     Banned User 77 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to Exile:

    Next big race should be two weeks, TNF 50 in San Fran but its just not going to happen... stomach/groin issue isn't going away so need to get it sorted.

    m: 17.8 mile long run, 7:40 pace, stomach/groin very very painful..
    t: track, 2 mile run to track then 2 x 2 mile (5:35 pace) and 1 x 1 mile (5:25 pace) 12 mile total
    w: 13.7 mile steady trail run out in the NJ pain barrens, so nice to be out at sunset..
    t: physio, thinks inflamed pectineas and psoas issues. steady 5.6 mile witH XC team as I was in the area.
    f: 12 miles, feeling better. 6:50 pace, 20 x 30 seconds 30 easy in it.
    s: am: steady 5 miler 7:50 pace all going OK until I was hit by a car.. yet again.. cars turning into roads and only looking at the traffic and driving through the pedestrian crossing.. I went flying over his hood.. stomach/groin worse immediately. pm: slow 4 groin sore.
    s: 2 mile warm up. Philly half, 1:17:09.. awful. Started off OK, 5:35 for 3 miles then groin/stomach got worse and slowed to a 6 min mile..

    I'll keep training but nothing long for a while until i get this sorted.
     riddle 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM:
    M, Lower body work out.
    T, Upper body work out.
    F, Squat 40kgs 5 sets 3 reps. Bench press 40kgs 5 sets 3 reps. Dead lift 50kgs 10 singles.
    S, First ever power lifting competition.
     mbh 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to IainRUK:

    >until I was hit by a car.. Ouch! Hope that doesn't have a lasting effect. Sympathies...
     Banned User 77 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to mbh:

    hope not.. its a wait and see.. this happens constantly here.
     mbh 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Thanks for doing this!

    52 miles, just under 6000 ft ascent.

    M - 5.9 miles in town
    T -
    W - 10 miles off road on a cycle trail, in darkness and mist.
    T - 7.8 miles on the coast path Portreath <> Porthtowan, in darkness
    F - 7.4 miles road
    S - 11.1 miles,. Mile 2 was at 7:20, miles 1, and 3-6 were all at 7:27. How steady is that!
    S - 10 miles on the coast path, Treyarnon <> Bedruthan Steps.

    The runs in the darkness were done to get used to it and get the hang of it. Despite being on actual footpaths and cycle trails, I still had to concentrate really hard to make sure I didn't go astray, and I wasn't always successful at that. More work required!
     Kevster 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to IainRUK:

    Didn't know if "like" or "dislike" on the post would be correct. Ouch sums it up, best of for the recovery, and top nuts for getting back on it immediately!
    K
     mattrm 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to IainRUK:


    > s: am: steady 5 miler 7:50 pace all going OK until I was hit by a car.. yet again.. cars turning into roads and only looking at the traffic and driving through the pedestrian crossing.. I went flying over his hood.. stomach/groin worse immediately. pm: slow 4 groin sore.

    That sucks. Hope you're better soon.
     mrchewy 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    50 goes in three sessions is some determination, well done on the yyfy. That sort of repetitiveness would probably get me injured.

    Been a bad week to be honest, a climbing/work mate was diagnosed with cancer, my lodger's mum too, another climbing mate's mum... it's rubbish. Plus work has been tough physically, enjoyable but knackering.

    STG - Nov. Keep up mileage and work on power.
    MTG - Spring. Focus on strength indoors. Have a decent grit season... lead a Brown and Whillans route!
    LTG - Next Oct. Take 18 months off and go climbing! Spain for 6 months. Goal - f7a and not a soft one.

    Mon - Rest. Still knackered from Nesscliffe and Left Wall.

    Tue - Worked late.

    Wed - Aerocap 45min. Yoga. Okay, beasted myself this week in the class. Tried far too hard (I'm competitive with myself) and left feeling fragile, pulled onto a couple of boulder problems and decided to go home!

    Thu - Routes with above mate, so mind was off the boil and was pretty knackered. Climbed badly. Led a 5+, 6a, flashed 6a, flashed 5, 5+ and then did some bouldering after for an hour or so.

    Fri - Shattered. Bed at 9.30pm... woke up 13hrs later. Needed I guess.

    Sat - Quick aerocap session after work 1x 30min, 6min rest, 1x15min. Sweaty! Then five pints of lager on an empty stomach... urgh.

    Sun - Bouldering. Stanage Far Right at lunchtime and Burbage North before dark. Went more to spend some time with above mate and friends. Sociable day, not really stuff I climb on usually. Overhanging, couldn't see my feet at times and I found it tough. Wore my new Instinct slippers - I think I'm gonna like them.

    After two years, finally on top of the flash pump. It's just not happening even when I try and provoke it - I'm getting pumped as to be expected when I'm trying hard but it's in either arm and quite controllable.

    Starting to feel like I need to go and climb some stuff I can actually climb and enjoy. Seem to have spent so much of this year working my weaknesses (jamming in particular), stuff I'm likely to fall off or training - may need to be proactive and find someone who wants the odd day out climbing at a similar grade to me.
    OP AJM 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to mrchewy:

    Well, it had a really nice sequence on double heel hooks with a really difficult release into double toe hooks, so it kind of sucked me in because I'm shit at that sort of thing.
     mattrm 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
    Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.

    Weight - 12st 3lbs

    M - Trad in Morocco
    T - Trad in Morocco
    W - Trad in Morocco
    T - Trad in Morocco
    F - Rest day
    S - VS in Morocco
    S - Rest

    Morocco was good fun all in. Bit weird in general and quartzite isn't the best rock in the world, we ripped off a lot of holds (which we did expect) and the friction wasn't great, it'll be awful if it gets polished, worse than limestone. Did a lot of climbing, but it was all cragging and no multipitch, apart from one 55m severe. Maybe that was where I went wrong. Had a bit of a leading wobble, but managed to get a couple of VSes out of it. Could have been better, could have been worse. The culture side of things was cool.

    AJM - Dark IPA? They're orrible, it's an odd American invention. So very wrong. Still it's cheap decent beer so it's all good. I'm just about to put my christmas beer on. Nothing great, just a kit.
    OP AJM 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    I remember being pleasantly surprised by the rock quality in Morocco, given what I'd expected from new routing, but maybe we found the good bits (or had unrealistically low expectations!)

    There's a spectrum of beer between dark IPA and export stout, and the latter has a historic pedigree even if the first is more newfangled I'll make sure I don't bring you along a bottle to portland in jan though, don't worry!

    Ali has just put the yeast into her Christmas beer, which smells very nice at the moment, be interesting to see how those flavours develop, whether it all melds in really well to become a nicely spiced beer or whether it comes out tasting like liquidised Christmas cake!

    I'm still planning to get a porter on too but I think that might miss Christmas itself by now. And Alis has come out pretty dark already so I will see, maybe I should have a go at something different (or do a stout instead maybe?). So many styles of beer...!
     J B Oughton 23 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM: Looking like Antalya at the moment! We'll see if we can get somewhere sorted to stay, and if not then Chulilla.

    Decent week...

    Mon - rest
    Tue - lazy
    Wed - Power Endurance sesh. Frantic rush to get fit for Antalya is to have a couple of weeks of P.E and then just smash out three weeks of heavy endurance training, hopefully lots of laps. Warmed up bouldering, then did a circuit of bouldering without much rest, then did some laps of the board in the training room climbing until failure (at about 30 moves usually) x 5.
    Thurs - rest, sore forearms so I'm doing it right
    Fri - Climb Newcastle Comp. I was convinced I'd done worse this time, but a hard set meant even though I got a lower score I came out with a higher position, from 4th to 3rd - YAY. Got burnt off by a few people but they all turned out to be staff so couldn't compete (hehehe). A decent performance because there was only problem that I should've flashed, that I actually got 4th go (1 point) with a beta tweak. The rest I either flashed or I failed on because they were just too hard and too powerful.
    Sat - wondering around the Lakes learning how to fix broken people in a remote wilderness situation
    Sun - walked up a big hill

    So only two sessions but a fun weekend and a good comp, should fit in three this week hopefully but there's lots of birthdays so there's quite a busy social schedule. Ah well it will be fine!

    Cheers, Jake
     Dandan 24 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    > Dandan82 - finger any better - have you decided what to do about your coaching session?

    Thanks AJM,
    The finger is pretty good, i've been icing it regularly which is doing wonders, why i've never tried that before is beyond me. The pain in the finger also seems to be only on certain grip types where the first knuckle is not bent, so as long as I keep of knife edge crimps then climbing doesn't do it too much harm. I've decided to do the coaching session regardless as we have already established I need to work on my technique and not my strength so there should be loads we can do without me having to crank too hard, the session is mostly about devising a training plan for the winter so it's definitely still worthwhile.

    Slightly lazy week with a surprising end:
    M: Easy core session; crunches, l hangs, front levers
    T: Easy chest session; press ups
    W:
    T:
    F:
    S: Climbing comp Calshot
    S:

    I still didn't manage to conjure up the enthusiasm to get to the gym, but I at least did a core session at home on Monday. I had ridiculous DOMS from that for 3 days, just shows how long since I have done anything! Very brief chest and rehab/stretching sieesion on Tuesday, I have been really lax on that front too recently.

    On Saturday Calshot had a competition on (as did most walls in the entire country it seems) and I went along for a play. I only really attend the Calshot comps due to a weird mix of loyalty and nostalgia, I once had an awesome time at a comp there, really sociable, really buzzing and I came second and won all sorts of good stuff. Ever since then they have been poorly attended, less friendly and with naff prizes but I keep going.
    I think a lot of the local good climbers have been tempted away by The Project in Poole in the last year so the comp was definitely pitched towards a slightly lower ability level, the bouldering was ridiculously easy, but weirdly both the easy and the hard lead routes were nails!

    All that aside, I actually performed much better than I had expected, I flashed all the boulder problems (to be fair i don't think there was anything over V5 and that's being generous) came joint top in the dyno comp which is always pleasing as i'm only 5'10", and I won the lead comp by two holds. My terrible performance on the speed climb (which i'm normally good at) meant I still soemhow only came third but I was really pleased with my overall performance, I was sure my recent laziness would have put me right out of the picture.
    The finger survived well too which i'm now convinced is down to the icing, hopefully it will be fixed before long and at least I know I can climb reasonably hard in the meantime without too much issue.

    Aim for this week is to just build the psyche back up, get to the gym, get a shoulder session and a core session in before my coaching session on Thursday night.
     Ally Smith 24 Nov 2014
    In reply to Joughton:

    I can give you lists of objectives for both Chulilla and Antalya; guessing >7c on-sight would be the primary goal?
     Spengler 24 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    > Creedence - I don't think you'll find the moves too bad on a 7a outside

    Thanks AJM. Will hopefully get outside to try one soon. I don't have brilliant circulation in my fingers, so need full sun this time of year.

    Plans coming together for Costa Blanca in Feb though, so have that to look forward too. Anyone recommend any classic middle of the grade 7a's to look at for a RP?

    Last week:
    Nothing too exciting, but some nice training goals. Making real progress on the slopers on the BM. Hit my 45 minute target on the traverse. Had to fight for the last five minutes, but made it.

    M - - 45mins core work. Then FB Deadhangs. 3 sets of 3 hangs each hold:
    Half crimp 30mm edge (+6kg), Front 3 30mm edge (+9kgs), 35° Sloper (-3kgs), Back 3 30mm edge (-3kgs). Some progress: +1kg on half crimp. +2kg on the Slopers.

    T - Rest

    W - Wall. About 2 hours of routes. One fall on a misread of a 7a onsight attempt. 6c, 6c, 6c, 7a (1 fall), 6c, 6c. A quick play on a 7a+ (hard but possibly doable, will try and work it a little over the next few weeks), and a top rope flail of a 7b+ (ha, individual moves just about doable in isolation, but little plastic holds are so greasy...). ARC traversing - 40 mins non stop on the 5+

    T - Wall. 30 min warm up. 60 mins limit bouldering. Working the harder v5's. 1 new tick. 60 mins 4x4s. 3 sets - V2,2,2,1. V2,1,2,2. V2,2,2,2.

    F - Rest

    S - Short hike in the suprisingly warm sunshine.

    S - Wall session. About 15 routes in 3ish hours. Up to 6c+ clean. ARC traversing - 45 mins non stop on the 5+
     williemiller 24 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Pretty good week for me climbing wise with some indoor PBs. Still no luck in finding people to climb with regularly.

    Mon – Easy lead session 8 routes up to 6a+. Yoga
    Tue – Out on Uni boat all day. 12k run to unwind
    Wed –Horrendous day trip to London, 15 hrs in the minibus
    Thur – Bouldering at Indy. First 6c and a couple of 6bs. Happy with the results but I only have about 10 hard tries in me before fingers are useless. Fingerboard needed?
    Fri –Nothing
    Sat – 10k
    Sun – 4x4’s to try and build up some stamina. I managed my first clean 6b+ afterwards so chuffed with that.

    STG (next week)
    Find a climbing partner
    3 climbing sessions a week
    3 runs a week

    MTG (by spring)
    Get to 75kg
    6b sport onsight
    10 HVS, 5 E1, 2 E2
    Run up Snowdon
     Ally Smith 24 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Good assessment, but pesky elbow has been playing up ever since. Very painful both times I’ve climbed this week, despite low intensity.

    BHAG:
    - “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
    - Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe?
    - Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!

    LTG (2015):
    - Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
    >8b+ RP – cherry pick from the list below
    - Fisheye & Humildes pas Casa, Oliana.
    - Unjustified/Overjustified & Bat Route, Malham.
    - Waddage, Mecca & Extension, Tor.
    - True North, Kilnsey
    >8a on-sight

    MTG (Winter ‘14/’15):
    - 7b multi-pitch on weekend break to Costa Blanca
    - Stay in gainful employment – 30% chance of redundancy by end of March
    - Decorate the house & build some home training facilities (curtains done this week, but old campus board won’t fit indoors – need to think about weather proofing design for outdoor installation)
    - “French Pillar” Jebel Misht, E3 choss at New Year.
    - Healthy shoulders, fingers & elbows – keep following the physio (boo – bad elbow)
    - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
    - Currently a right little FATTY – scales are broken, old harness is rather snug

    STG (Next week)
    - Rest/ice/fix elbow
    - Start gym membership and do some all-round conditioning (DOMS here we come!)
    - Try again at bolting Diamond project(s)

    Last week:
    1x assessment.
    - 68 moves correlates well with just sneaking up an 8a OS (70 moves is the bench mark for that).
    - Also showed that I can make good aero-cap/power gains quickly, and need to concentrate on an-cap for future development.
    - Marginal gain in finger strength over the year; need to concentrate more here

    1x Boardroom session, aggravated elbow during boulder warm-up. 3x 10min continuity aero-cap session

    1x Day chasing dry rock; eventually found some and did E2, E1, E4, 6c+ (OS except E1 repeat)
    3 bottle of beer (cake abstinence didn’t happen)
     J B Oughton 24 Nov 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith: Sweet cheers Ally, I'll send you a message when we've decided where we're going! Yeah something like that, I'll see how I'm getting along.
     hms 24 Nov 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    BTW have you any particular stuff you want to aim at whilst we're in Chulilla? Would be good to know so I can look at what might be good for me in the same sectors. I've got AJMs guide book to try to get me psyched!
     mattrm 25 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    > I remember being pleasantly surprised by the rock quality in Morocco, given what I'd expected from new routing, but maybe we found the good bits (or had unrealistically low expectations!)

    I had unrealistically high expectations. So for the friction to seem worse than slimestone, was a surprise. It probably wasn't that bad and I did have a big confidence wobble. On the upside, now I've done a lot of climbing very delicately on iffy rock, it'll be great for my UK climbing.

    > There's a spectrum of beer between dark IPA and export stout, and the latter has a historic pedigree even if the first is more newfangled I'll make sure I don't bring you along a bottle to portland in jan though, don't worry!

    Hey, let's not be hasty. I first came across Dark IPA in Portland, OR, 4 or so years ago, I wasn't a big fan of it then. But I'm not one to pass over free beer. So I'll give it a try. I've just put on a homebrew myself, I'll bring a few bottles along.
    OP AJM 25 Nov 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    I need to see what Alis Christmas one turns out like and then decide what my next one is going to be - hopefully if I can get it on at the start of December it should be nicely ready in time to bring a case of it to the meet, for helping power the send train

     Humperdink 25 Nov 2014
    In reply to IainRUK:

    That's seriously rubbish - can you sue?
     Humperdink 25 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM:
    Cheers yet again AJM. So how did the race go? Find out below!

    M: lunchtime - 4/5M easy in 34:04, pm 9/10M steady in 61:03
    Tu: pm session: 4x90sec (90sec recovery), 3,4,5,4,3min (2min recovery between each) then 4x45sec (45sec recovery). Ouch! glad to get it done and pretty good so motivation building for the weekend. 11M total
    W: pm - 7M steady in 47:12
    Th: rest
    F: pm - 3/4M Steady in 25:43 + strides
    Sa: Home Countries Masters XC @ Wollerton Park Nottingham. Weather was dry and very mild for my race which was M35, M40 and M45 combined with teams from Eng, Sco, Wal, Rep Ire and N.Ire .Course was four 2K laps, each lap had one big hill and one much smaller one and then flat so a fast course. Got out well (in the top 15) and got a good position off the top of the hill. Towards the end of the lap a few of the more steady starters came past but didn't get too far in front leaving me around 20th. Then got stuck into a race long battle with a guy from the Rep of Ireland which involved me going ahead on the uphills to see him come past on the downhills. This was crucial as heading into the last lap we were the final counters towards the team scores. We picked up a scot up the hill for the last time where I tried to go for it but couldn't get away. As they both came past downhill though I clung on and could see another Rep of Ireland guy ahead who was visibly slowing. Again made an effort up the small hill and caught and passed the third Irish scorer and things were looking good. Sadly I couldn't quite hold onto this and lost back out to my buddy I'd been with the whole race in the home straight. The upshot? I came 10th in my age group and 16th overall (8K in 25:45). More importantly I was the final counter for the team and we won from Rep of Ireland - by one point!! So all in all a good race! It was very tight though: if I'd been 15 seconds quicker I'd have been 8th rather than 16th! Felt good cooling down, 10/11M
    Su: Recovered well - must have been the beer! 13M steady in 1:32:20

    ~60M Total and a nice shiny team medal. Fantastic race and atmosphere so am definitely going to give it everything to run again next year! Sorry for the essay folks!
    Post edited at 20:23
     mattrm 25 Nov 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    > I need to see what Alis Christmas one turns out like and then decide what my next one is going to be - hopefully if I can get it on at the start of December it should be nicely ready in time to bring a case of it to the meet, for helping power the send train

    If there's this much beer coming along, the only chance the send train has is for a prompt arrival on Saturday, as Sunday won't be much sending unless we can all do a 'Whillians'.

    I have one of these on:- http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Milestone-Dark-Galleon-Beer-Ki...

    I found my last homebrew hard going (I like beer, but I did end up drinking a bit much), so I'm keen to palm some of it off on other folks.
    OP AJM 26 Nov 2014
    In reply to mattrm:



    Sounds like a possible need for a new UKcFC splinter club a la Gardening club - UKCFC Brewing Club...
     Nick Russell 28 Nov 2014
    In reply to Portland (semi) locals:
    I'm going to be down at Portland tomorrow (Saturday), probably at the Cuttings. If anyone else is around it would be good to say hi, best bet would be to text on 07BI34S3O26

    edit: is it worth trying to obfuscate phone numbers like this? If I really wanted to harvest numbers from a public forum, I'd write code that would interpret most variations I've seen...
    Post edited at 14:28
     Dandan 28 Nov 2014
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    I should be there tomorrow, I'll be the one with a tiny terrier
    In reply to AJM:

    Thanks Andy. Will have to try Huntsham.
    An okay week but still need to get leading.

    M- rest
    T - Lead Brookes rubbish session
    W - hangboard at home
    T- Milton Keynes WBL
    F - rest
    S - Boulder Wirksworth WBL
    S - Boulder Climbig Unit working unfinished business up to V6

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