UKC

please recommend me quality multipitch vdiffs in snowdonia with big belay ledges! thanks in advance

In reply to Matadoors:

Chic and slick at the moelwyns. Did my first multi pitch vdiffs on them last spring. Great routes that should be just what you're after.

Mike.

In reply to Matadoors:
Bramble buttress, craig y gesail at Tremadog three star v.diff, three pitches.

In reply to Matadoors:

Flying Buttress - Dinas y Cromlech
Grooved Arete - Tryfan
Milestone Direct - Milestone Buttress

All a bit polished, but still excellent routes well worth doing.

In reply to A Mountain Journey:

Flying buttress is on my radar. Looks really good!!!
Three exclamations for emphasis!

In reply to Matadoors:

I loved Outside edge route cwm silyn.

Cheers

Gaz

In reply to Matadoors:

Hope et al. At Cwm Idwal.

In reply to Matadoors:
Apologies; just looked at your climbs list and see you have already done It. Then try Tennis Shoe (says he provocatively) . Today HS but I recall not always thus. Brilliant if you are up for it.

In reply to Arcturus:

Top pitch a bit goey. Hard Severe, not V Diff. And I suspect it was always thus, just not graded so. Doesn't sound what the OP's looking for. Though I may be wrong (often am).

Mick

In reply to Gazlynn:

WARNING - last thing I hear (BMC website) was Outside Edge has had a major rockfall on its upper easy finishing pitches so there is potential for getting hit by something lower down. The belay stances are not massive either.

In reply to Matadoors:

Will o The Wisp has big ledges at least to start with, sorry its been a long time I can't quite remember:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=40744

In reply to Matadoors:
some great suggestions, got plenty to keep myself busy with this summer!

p.s the reason i asked about the ledges, was to make it easy to carry on leading. my second doesn't want to lead though

In reply to Matadoors:

Left Edge, Carnedd Filiast

In reply to Matadoors:

Ampitheatre Buttress (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29162) and Cyfrwy Arete by the Table Direct (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=37257) are both excellent long VDiffs with great exposure and an alpine feel to them. You might get queues on Amphitheatre Buttress, I think there must have been about 10 teams on it when I did it

In reply to Matadoors:
There are quite a few on Lliwedd. Horned Crag, Central Chimney, Slanting Buttress. If you do Avalanche/Red Wall your second needs to be happy about traverses, as the crux is the traverse. However, the hard step right is well protected by something like a Friend 2.

Slanting Buttress is probably the best to start on, as provided you actually find the correct buttress (not that hard), it's all on big positive holds with almost no route finding problems.

In reply to A Mountain Journey:

Spiral Stairs is alright as well, a grand adventure if you climb VDiff.

John Spence - Bramble Buttress is shite IMO. If you want to do a Tremadog VDiff Hail Bebe is better, basically because the top pitch is really exposed for VDiff. The lower pitches are alright as well, muddy path pitch excluded.

In reply to ianstevens:



That top pitch! I also found Gilijo at Tremadog to be a fierce little VDiff, the first pitch is rather run out.

In reply to Trevers:

Never done that one myself, might have to check it out next time I fancy a lazy afternoon!

The top pitch is especially interesting at night, in the drizzle, wearing wellies and moving together...

In reply to ianstevens:



After a few pints I presume?

That reminds me of when I did Indian Face...

In reply to Trevers:

We saved the pints for afterwards - forgot the chalk-free chalk bags/bottle holders unfortunately.

In reply to Matadoors:
It's been upgraded to severe now but the ledges are huge on Gambit climb all the way up!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29147

In reply to Matadoors: Loads of atmosphere and a distinctly period feel..Rectory Chimney(s) Cwm Glas.

In reply to ianstevens:

Surprised that you found Bramble Buttress "shite", did it for the first time last Sunday as a rope of three,(combined climbing experience of 130yrs) all agreed that the top pitch alone was def'worth its three stars. Still, each to their own as they say.

In reply to john spence:

As you imply, it's an opinion. I'm more than happy to disagree, personally I just didn't find it as enjoyable as its two star rating would suggest. Experience has nothing to do with how you rate something as subjective as the "quality" (whatever that means) of a climb.

In reply to CurlyStevo:



Currently it's voted at somewhere between hard S and easy HS. Is that a hangover from the fact that it was graded lower before?

In reply to Matadoors:

Reades Route & Parsons Nose Direct in Cwm Glas are worth a look at around the grade your after?

In reply to ianstevens:
>If you want to do a Tremadog VDiff Hail Bebe is better, basically because the top pitch is really exposed for VDiff. The lower pitches are alright as well, muddy path pitch excluded.

Agreed, Bebe is an excellent V Diff, BUT be aware also that there is a very active Bee nest under the tree at the top of the first pitch of Hail Bebe (/ One step in the clouds) which is there at the moment (and regular enough later in the year to be mentioned in the guidebook). They usually happily ignore climbers sharing their ledge but it's not a place to hang around if you're phobic!!

In reply to Trevers:

Gambit has a particularly hard section that must be about 4c near the top. However I think you can avoid that. The rest of it isn't too bad for severe.