UKC

Placeholder until tomorrow AM, I forgot I was spending the weekend in Sheffield! Stats to come first thing.

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan - hope you've got some good climbing done in the Peak this weekend if you're in Shef!

2016 goals:

- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night

- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B - done)
- Moffatrocity (f7B+ - done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- The Mentalist (f7C)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)

- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- 8a

M: rest
T: went out bouldering after work. Had hoped for a session at Blackwell Dale but it was totally condensed out. Drove down to the Churnet and had another session on the Mentalist but it was way too hot, I couldn't even repeat the top moves that I'd had fairly wired previously. On the plus side, I didn't re-injure my finger.
W: Foot-on-campus (FoC) aeropow training in the evening.
T: Core training in the morning, some more core and FoC training in the evening.
F: Rest
S: Couple of hours bouldering at Blackwell Dale in the morning. Tried Jerry's Traverse Reverse (f7A+) (ie left to right.) It's either quite a bit harder than right-to-left or else I was really weak (maybe it's all this FoC training.) I did all the moves individually but never got close to the tick - powering out badly in the central section.
S: Two FoC sessions in the morning. The second was 30 minutes after the first. Top-line performance dropped from 145 seconds (fairly consistent my previous 3 sessions) to 125 seconds. It's a good indication that 30 mins rest isn't enough after that sort of workout. I can't decide what if anything I can learn from that for rest periods after a single hard redpoint attempt at a Peak route (where about 30 mins is my usual minimum - anyone haev views on this?) After doing FoC twice this morning, I could still feel my forearms by early evening! Evening; some more core training.

Injury catalogue: no significant change in anything this week. Right middle two flexor unit still not quite right.

Weight last Sunday night was 11st 0lb.

My excitement about the hot/dry weather quickly drying out the wetter peak limestone crags earlier this week turned out to be mis-placed, but it is now looking up and the coming week, fingers crossed, looks dry.

Wanting to hit the aeropow training some more this week, then have a good go at Arch Enemies next Saturday. If conditions are good then after 3+ weeks of aeropow training plus having all the beta I've got, I've got the best chance I'm going to have without having put in in a lot more specific fitness training, and I'm not willing to do that as it'll compromise my bouldering aims too much. So if it goes, great, and I'll probably then look for an F8a...if it doesn't (given good connies) then I'll probably scrap my route aims for the year and focus on bouldering/strength again. Probably...

Si

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan.

Bulge was wet this week - wetter than 5 days before despite little/no rain. We sacked it off and went on Comedy instead. I remember giving it two goes a couple of years ago after doing Ground Effect and Truth Drug. They'd gone quite easily so was looking for a 7c and i gave up after finding it the living end. This time was much better. Got it in three rests ( so not got it at all really, but you know what i mean) and i reckon with different beta at the start i could have got it in two. All the moves done but similar to The Bulge not enough in the tank to string them all together. Anyway it was good training.

Been scratching about to find a decent AnCap routine but can't find a suitable problem. Had a campus session (30sec laddering) which went ok but tweaked my tweaky finger. Tried an auto belay route AnCap session but that wasn't top end enough.

Back tomorrow to see if it's dried out. Got new shoes so they should add at least a grade to my ability right ?

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan.

Monday - Lulworth. Usual range of warmups and then 2-3 plunges off Despicable Terrier (E3 6a). Getting relatively close in condensed conditions. Lovely evening, shame it wasn't better conditions on the rock.
Tuesday - rest
Wednesday - Lulworth. Choppier sea but slightly better rock conditions. Usual warmups then The Laws Traverse (E1 6a) which I can't believe I haven't done before as it's brilliant. Had a go at Horny Lil' Devil (7a) but fell off. Feet got wet leaving the start ledge which didn't help. Wind came round after that and it got cold. I think I then came home and did some on the minute pullups.
Thursday - too hot to train.
Friday - am training session to compensate for heat. Foot on campus. Good session, seeing improvements.
Saturday - millstone. Great Portland Street (HVS 5b) to warm up, very nice, Embankment 3 (E1 5b) on second, Time for Tea (E3 5c) I skittered off the traverse first go but pulled back to the rest and did it from there second go (suppose I should have gone back to the ground really but given its such a route of two halves I just didn't feel it), and then Regent Street (E2 5c) which was a flash partly on Toms gear (up to the gear you place just above the headwall ledge - had to place the mid headwall stuff and above myself). A good day out, nice to be on a different style and have a bit of a play, but sore toes!
Sunday - Stanage. In reality I wanted to be at Chee Tor (rest of the team seemed unpersuadable), and I was quite tired, and my shoulder was a bit achey, so I did a vs to warm up, had a very half hearted exploration of Tippler Direct, and then sacked it in and had a big piece of cake in Outside.

Should have done more Sunday but otherwise not a bad week, decent amount of time on rock. Parents visiting this weekend so unlikely to climb as much although it would be nice to get out midweek. After a rock filled week last week I feel I may have to catch up on the rest of life this week a bit though. Might be time to get out in the garden again.

Wendenstock approaching fast, and whilst I'm not exactly crushing E4 as I'd optimistically hoped I might be by now I feel like I'm in a lot better shape in terms of trad miles game than I was last summer. Which is good because we have already done two of the easiest routes on the crag!

In reply to AJM:

STG = another 7a+ by end of July. One weekend left although I am in Portland for it.
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 2x7a+.
BHAG = 8a by 40

Hi all

M – Westway stamina circuits. Feeling quite tired from Bowles bouldering. Managed another V3/4 in the Fridge and beasted myself in circuits in Fridge / Circuit room.

W – Bouldering and successful session. All the V1/2, all bar 1 of V2/3, 2 of the V3/4, flashed a V4/5 and flashed another V4. Don’t think I’ve ever flashed a V4/5 before, was crimpy and suited my strengths. Particularly enjoyed one of the V3/4 which involved lots of horizontal toe hooking in a roof, completely against my strengths but got it eventually.

Sat - Llanymynech and back on Strawberry Tubin (7b). Managed 3 good goes (its 35m long) and dropped it on the last hard move (basically the last move) on the last 2 of them ;-( did manage to slightly refine the beta at the very end though so hopefully next time. Bit gutted to drop it but equally gave it everything so can't be too disappointed.

Sun - Trevor rocks (gfs choice today). First time I've been there, beautiful place. Quite atmospheric, it was peeing it down the other side of the valley and kept advancing towards us and then retreating. Relaxed day but some quality routes, led Borderline (6a+) and then clean TR on Traction Control (6c) and Margin of Error (6c). Thats pretty much the 2 hardest routes in the venue done now so not sure when I'll next be back.

Decent week, very busy at work but still managed OK volume and got outside. Work busyness likely to continue till about Oct so just gotta keep trying to get outside when I can.

In reply to Dandan:

This heat hugely zapped my motivation for indoor climbing and I only went once in the last 2 weeks! I haven't been outdoors since 3rd July. Terrible. I've been running a fair amount (only short distances though as to not aggravate the knee.) I've also eaten a lot of burgers recently - went 7 days in a row checking out all of the Birmingham independent burger bars.

So it's the start of my 6 week holiday. I'm sat in Deganwy struggling to motivate myself to get out climbing somewhere today. Having completed the 2 projects I'd set myself for the summer last month I need to start working something new. My logbook reads 9 new routes in 2016, so maybe I could try for some mileage. I'm tempted to head into the pass tomorrow and check out the barrel roof.

M-Nothing
T-Nothing
W-3.8mile off-road run.
T-Nothing
F-Heavy drinking
S-Nothing
S-7mile road run.

In reply to Dandan:
Righto, first proper entry. Really good to have some structure and goals laid out and have something to work towards. Let's see what we've got.

A little progress on short term goals - I've reinstituted an at home work out from the olden days which is as many press-ups as you can do in 2 minutes followed by 4 minutes rest then as many sit ups as you can do in 2 minutes. It takes less than ten minutes and you can do it more or less anywhere (as long as you can find something to get your toes under for the sit ups) so suits my busy life! Target for this is to achieve 44 press ups and 50 sit ups in allotted time. Any thoughts on good exercises that I can add to this routine welcome. Got back in the pool for the first time in 9 months and had a great swim. 10 lengths breaststroke then free-style and hit a groove right away and before I knew it I'd done 40+ more lengths without either getting bored or really breaking a sweat. Spent most of the swim thinking about climbs I want to do. Also ordered new prescription goggles as old foggy broken pair are a PITA.

Stats:
Mon - Nothing
Tues - Nothing
Weds - P33, S31
Thurs - P30, S25 (ouch - muscle fatigue!)
Fri - Swim, 1300m, Average length time 41.51s, Total: 35.58mins. Good to be back in the pool
Sat - nothing
Sun - P33, S31
Weight: 72.75k, somehow I managed to gain a kilo since last week!
Injury report: Leg seems as stuffed as ever, though hopefully swimming helped.

Goals:
Short Term (next four weeks)
Sort out some sort of training regime/goals/structure. Hopefully the ability to use Fitclub as a yardstick to record progress and to clarify objectives and tactics will help with this!
Make progress towards press-up sit up targets e.g: 44 press ups in 2 mins and 50 sit ups.

Medium Term (over course of next year)
Fix whatever the f**k it is that is stopping me from running. I'm grateful for any suggestions about how to go about this.
Start ticking a few routes that are local that I really need to do - Unknown Wall at Avon, The Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Suspension Flake at Hound Tor, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi
Lots of others that I'll add to this list as I remember/come across them.

Long Term
I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner

In reply to Dandan:

as planned, I had a fairly quiet week wrt climbing.

M, T, W - cycle commute, lots and lots of shoulder rehab
T - cycle commute, Bloc in evening. Lots of V3-5, varying success.
F - D1's graduation, little exercise & amazingly bad diet, excellent day!
S - UCR, 12 routes, the last 5 pretty much back-to-back. Inc 6c OS, 2x6c+, 2 goes on a very powerful 7a.
S - 2 miles walk

hope to get out on rock this week. I've also noticed from a very high level look at my log-book that I have done 83 routes at 7a or above, which would give a rather obvious MTG. This probably includes routes from a while ago where I got a clean TR tick before then leading, so don't know if I should be a bit more purist with my counting!

In reply to Si dH:

Si - good to see you in the pub in Saturday.

I watched someone try Arch Enemies on Sunday whilst out for a walk - It looks boss! If you consider an evening session, let me know and i'll come join you.

7C strength would get you up a lot of peak-ist f8a'a so i wouldn't abandon your route goals just yet; short Chimes, Rattle & Hump; that sort of thing could be climbed on a lot less than 7C strength.

In reply to Dandan:

Not actually that much done this week as every time I tried to do stuff it was just too overwhelmingly hot! I miss slightly rubbish British weather!

M: 2 hours of tennis
T: Nothing
W: drive back down to bristol
T: hour of tennis plus Bloc in the evening. v hot!
F: Graduated!
S: UCR teaching boyfriend how to lead, plus a few circuits
S: Nothing

Hopefully going outside with hms this week. I haven't been on rock for almost a year so this could be interesting!

In reply to Dandan:

Q3 functional goals:
Benchmark finger strength %); then aim for 2% point increase (work out adaptation of the 2x max pull-up routine that worked so well last year, but in a way that doesn’t tweak my elbows)
Benchmark an-cap; then aim for >10% increase in both parameters. Initially very specific training via laps of key 12-move sections of tTotG’s; Second fifth, Mr Skin, Bend, and Low Life
Increase static core strength to maximise use of tTotGs kneebar rests. >4min plank; >90s side plank; 90s V-sit with perfect form; 3x30 kneebar sit-ups in Parisella’s slot; maintain weekly yoga sessions.
August route goals:
- Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
- Clean and do Gorge projects:
o Link-up heaven; stamina f8a+/b?
o Devil’s Haircut extension; bouldery f8a+/b?
- Bolt, clean and try rest of Kilnsey project – probably a 2017 RP aim now?
- Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b

End of year route goals:
Continue with RP’ing projects (listed from stamina to boulder intensity):
- Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
- Bolt and clean rest of Kilnsey project
- Gorge projects, both f8a+/b
- Well Done Finish, f8b
- Waddage, f8b
- Cider Soak, f8a
- Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b
- Tor link-up, f8a+/b

Week 30:
M - CyL after work, very productive session despite the minging hot & sweaty conditions. Middle bit (f7c) to warm-up, then an-cap laps of sections of the lenny, each 55-65s long, with 2.5min rest interval. 4xBend (cross through method). 10min rest. 4x Low Life (couple of failures – good to wire the engram). 10min rest. 4x Bend (failed on cross through and reverted to shuffle method – good discovery that the cross through doesn’t work when bolx’d) 10min rest. 4x Mr Skin – 50% failure on last move, though I was taped up by that point. 10min aero-cap warm-down.
T - 5min core app and stretching only
W - Hoopla bouldering. It was meant to be Parisella’s but the traffic was murder. Got spanked initially, but got in the groove by the end and had managed to repeat a bunch of things, including Foghorn Leghorn, a steep and slappy 7B.
T - Yoga
F - Too much work to get out, so trained at home before curry gluttony. Benchmarking session:
- Finger strength: somewhere between 73 & 74 kg – closer to 74kg on the right than left = ~97%. Now aim for 99%
- An-cap: 53s constant (equal to Oct ’15) & 178s intermittent (18% increase on Oct ’15). Now aim for >60s constant and >200s intermittent.
Then did 15x 1on/1off aero-cap FoC with 3kg on harness; skin was screaming. 3x20 8kg shoulder press. 3x30 inclined press-ups. 2min plank. 5min core-app.
S - 25mile MTB on mostly easy trails/quiet lanes with the lady. Added The Spider (8a) and Sirplum (E1 5b) to the “must-get-round-to-doing-them-one-day” list
S - 9miles walking in/above Dovedale; added Arch Enemies (7c+) and Tom’s direct finish to Eye of the Tiger to the “must-get-round-to-doing-them-one-day” list

In reply to Dandan:

Morning FitClubbers, sorry I'm late!

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=645872

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last week’s posters:

Emily - Good to hear you are seeking out some coaching, I hope it works for you.
Leeboy1985 - Hope the recovery from the op goes well!
TonyB - Welcome back to mild old 30 degree England
Si dH - Training looks to be going well, shame about the lack of outside action.
AJM - congrats on Saskatchewan! I must get down and take a look at that.
Heelhookofglory - Be careful with the skiing, a couple of good holidays in the mountains and you won't want to climb any more, it's a lot of fun!
Nick Russell - Awesome onsight, and in Cheddar too, not exactly soft!
Dandan82 - Finger update...
Ian Bell - Did you get on Strawberry Tubin?
hms - holiday sounded fantastic, great ticklist. Take care of that shoulder now!
planetmarshall - Ah, I know it as an overhead squat. Good outdoor mileage!
Tyler - Do the physio exercises!
D1 - I love a good boulder comp to get motivation high, I wish there was one near me.
Ally smith - Mega ticklist, be sure to link to the blog when it's done
Curious Yellow - Hope you are having fun in Font!
Hokkyokusei - That's pretty much a lifetime worth of hiking for me
Bobling - Welcome, got a BHAG yet?
Biscuit - It's incredible that seepage is still an issue in July! I experienced it at the weekend too!
Just Tintin - Sorry about the maths! Again, amazed at the amount of wet problems!

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for the stats Dan. Yeah, pretty happy with that! Another decent week for me, managing to get outside plenty and feeling on good form at the moment.

M - Cheddar, The Remnant. Another TR on Right-Hand Man. Well hot.
T - Rest
W - Cheddar, Pride Evans. Had a go atSing a Mean Toon, Kid (7b+). Got to half way through the crux on first go, then continued to fluff up the next 4 attempts, by which time it was dark. I should have had that one, just need to concentrate.
T - 11.5km run
F - Cheddar, The Remnant. Third session on RHM, still on TR. Actually feel like I can do all the moves now, though the LH to tiny crimp low down is hard and I need to work out a reliable sequence for coming out of the groove at the start. Probably worth getting on lead next time. I prefer working routes on lead anyway.
S - Cheddar, Pride Evans. Ticked SAMTK, first go putting the draws in. Then made short work of the link-up, Directoonima (7c) (I'd just done the crux after all), second go. All the holds felt massive after the crimps on RHM.
S - Avon, Main Wall. Just about got up Main Wall Eliminate (E4 6a) before the drizzle started.

STG

A few Cheddar N routes I've had my eyes on. Tick Sing a Mean Toon, Kid (7b+)! Other candidates: Circus, Circus (7c), Everyday Lives of Ordinary People (7c)

Lead through all the moves on Right-Hand Man (8a)

Running: over 100km in August, including 1 week with 50km.

MTG

Sub-90 in Bristol half in September.

A tick of Right-Hand Man (8a) doesn't seem completely out of the question.

LTG

Snowdonia marathon 2017. I'll have to be very quick on the 1st January if I want to get a place

BHAG

The Long Hope Route

Black Bean

In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks Ally, good to see you too. Were N Wales plans canned then?
Good to know you are keen on Arch Enemies, it's a great route. I've got a partner already for this Saturday but if I'm keen to get back on it after that I'll let you know. Funny you mention Rattle & Hump though - I've spent 2.5 sessions just trying to do the boulder problem start to that and can't! Desperate...

How do your Ancap measurements work by the way?

Si

In reply to Nick Russell:


I wonder if something has come off RHM because you are the second person who has mentioned having trouble coming out of the groove, yet I don't recall it being an issue. Shame I can't remember any of the sequence!

In reply to Dandan:

Interesting. I've seen a couple of ways to do it so it's just a case of picking one and making it work for me. It's largely a lack of effort, since I figured the crux for me is going to be higher up and it's harder to work the start (big swings out, a lot of energy spent getting back on).

In reply to Dandan:
Thanks! I had not too bad a week considering I was away at a work thing with mainly 9am-9pm days - managed to fit a few bits of exercise in.

Mon Nothing, workshop workshop.
Tue Short run on Bilbao riverfront, 5km in 28:19. So hot even before 7am!
Wed Nothing, workshop workshop.
Thu Checked out gym at workshop accommodation. Some core stuff to warm up, then deadlift, bench press, squats and pull ups. Nothing too heavy, haven't done proper weights in a while.
Fri Short run before last of workshop and travel home: 3.6km in 20:31.
Sat Climbing at Cheddar, tried out Rustler (6c). Liked the start, tricky and confusing in the middle section.
Sun Running with Nick, 8.2km in 45:03.

Goals:

Short term (Jul/Aug)

• work on fear
  • have booked a coaching session the week after next, hope that will be useful!
• attempt to minimise excess of eating-and-sitting-around combo while away for workshop this week
  • managed to get a bit of exercise in, definitely ate a bit too much though
• find a new local project - maybe a Cheddar 6c?
  • tried Rustler, found it hard, would go back to it I guess?

Medium term (Jul, Aug, Sep)

• maintain weight in 56-58kg range
  • not sure but almost certainly up from week at workshop
• figure out what I want to focus on for cardio fitness now the Bristol 10k is over
  • managed to do some running this week. I keep thinking something circuit-training style would be fun but not actually getting motivated to do it
• go outdoor climbing with a good attitude
  • fine at Cheddar on Saturday, a bit scared but avoided angry screeching about this

Maybe someday

• redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
• redpoint another something beginning with 7 outdoors??
• lead a VS???

In reply to Dandan:


It's all I have to do and yet I am so shit at it!
M: Half hearted attempt at rehab excercises
T: Ditto
W: Ditto plus yoga
T: Most rehab exercises plus yoga
F: Most rehab excercises
S: Easy day at Windgather, appalled to discover how shot my shoulder is.
S: Easy day at Stanage, appalled to discover I couldn't climb Apparent North (HVS 5b), much as I'd like to blame my shoulder that wasn't the reason, what is it with gritstone grades?

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dandan

Recovery is going really well so far. A lot better than what I thought it was going to be.

This weeks STG
Maintain weight and do some light walking - Tick still 84kg

Next week STG
Maintain weight and do some light walking and make sure in fit state for north wales at the end of the week.
Lots of easy mountaineering routes on the weekend.

MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route - Complete Exchange (VS 4b)
Revised goal - lead Arch Slab (VS 4c) Scavenger (VS 4c)The Druid (VS 4c) by end of Sept

LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter

BHAG
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)

Monday - Rest.
Tuesday - Rest.
Wednesday - Rest.
Thursday - Rest.
Friday - Easy walk with family
Saturday - Climbing at Gilwern. Took it easy as I did not want to fall. Climbed Brittle Biscuit (4c)All Aboard My Dingy (4c)Crack Me Up (4a)
Sunday - Easy walk down Ogmore beach with my youngest letting her play on the rocks.

Happy training
Lee

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks me, I've had a really easy week, I was determined to give this niggly finger a chance to recover before Kaly (8 days away now!) This is supposed to be taper week but the last thing I want to be doing is short, hard sessions with an iffy finger, so i'll just have to manage without.

M-F: Literally nothing, which felt very odd. Sitting around all evening is not my idea of fun. The finger felt like it was a little swollen so I was waiting for that to go down before I started any kind of rehab, it seemed to be improving by the weekend.
We drove up to Sheffield on Friday which was a terrible idea, traffic was horrendous. I also managed to get a cold from somewhere. Hottest week of the year and I get a cold, impressive.

S: Visiting friends in Sheffield, they are coming with us to Margalef next April so they wanted to get back into some sport climbing, having spent a good couple of years almost exclusively bouldering and then doing nothing for the last 6 months. We went to Cheedale to a little crag at the west end called Blackwell Halt, basically a wall of 6b's. It would have been nice to visit some of the more serious crags, (although I understand a lot of stuff is still seeping?) but everyone wanted to take it easy and I didn't want to be tempted to push my finger on anything too hard. The climbing was pretty decent, we had the crag to ourselves and my finger seemed to cope fine.

S: Masson Lees; we wanted something south of Sheffield as we were heading home straight after so this seemed a good choice, I was still amazed by the number of wet routes in July! Tried a little harder than the day before and the finger was fine, highlight being an onsight of the cement-tastic Exo6 (7a+) which felt both fine for the finger and ridiculously easy. The votes on here suggest its pretty much on the grade so that's encouraging from a fitness point of view.
The worst part of the day was while I was belaying, I pulled in a length of rope to let my climber rest and got a sharp pain down my left forearm for no apparent reason! It was scarily in the tennis elbow area of the forearm but I'm pretty sure its not that, it remained painful for a couple of days though, but seems to be receding today (Tuesday) so hopefully it's not a major problem.

I was supposed to be doing the lattice board assessment today but due to the finger and the forearm I have postponed it for now, I'd much rather be able to put full effort into it.
I'm happy that if I can do a crimpy peak 7a without hurting the finger, I should be able to still get a fair chunk of stuff done at a decent grade in Kaly, and I still have over a week to improve the finger.

In reply to Dandan:

Ah ha! I was cycling down Cheedale on Saturday - was it you i bumped into at the bike hire/cafe at the bottom of Topley Pike?

As an aside - i've done a lattice assessment with a dodgy digit before - i was able to do the finger-strength test on the good side only, and the stamina/energy systems assessment bit on the lattice board itself is on big enough holds that the finger wasn't upset by the effort.

I doubt having a sore finger will be too much of an issue on Kalymnos - stick with the steep juggy stuff! There's no small holds in the Grande Grotte - right?!?

In reply to Dandan:


Cheers!


Ha ha! To be honest I think I've walked further in a week in the lakes. Though not at that kind of altitude!

m - 15k walk up Great Whernside from Kettlewell
t - rest
w - rest
t - rest
f - 5k walk to work
s - slept though the parkrun I intended to do so as pennance: Bingley Show Fell Race 10.3k, 320m ascent, 63mins
s - rest

Wasted most of the week, but in my defence, I struggled to get over the jet lag. Happy with the run, I'd probably p!ssed away most of the gain from being at altitude by then. I felt really strong at the start, but was flagging badly by the end, and I was almost crippled by DOMS yesterday! Less than two weeks to the Cross Bay Challenge half marathon. Ooops ...

STG: Don't embarass myself at the Cross Bay Challenge HM!
MTG: Decide on some new mountaineering related LTG.

7 day average weight: 78.3kg, body fat 17.9%.

In reply to Ally Smith:

It was! It was my friend Jason that you held a conversation with, you're officially the first FitClubber I've met in person (although not knowingly at the time!)


Yeah Tom said the same but with the weird injury to the left forearm (its a dodgy right hand finger) too it seemed a bit risky. I'm in no rush so it would be nice to be at full strength when I do it.


That's going to be my holiday mantra "There are no small holds on Kalymnos"

In reply to Dandan:

Yes I can see that skiing is addictive, soooo much fun! A crazy week of work. I reckon I've done about 70 hours this week so I'm feeling pretty burned out at the moment. Hoping once I get some of these sites launched I can take some time out. Anyway, only climbed once this week but it was a really good, if very hot, session. Attempted some comp problems and felt good. Last bike race of the season next week so I can knock back the bike training and focus more on climbing after that. Taper week this next week.

Mon: Rest
Tue: 1hr MTB with 4 x 5 min race pace intervals
Wed: Rest
Thu: Rest
Fri: 1hr MTB
Sat: 1hr MTB / 1.5hr Bouldering – Enjoyed attempting some of the comp problems. Managed to flash 3 so far and enjoyed the challenge of the slab problems! Great session despite the heat.
Sun: Rest

Aims For Next Week:
More climbing
Taper the bike training
Compete in Mids XC final round
Climbing: 2-3x
Bike: 1-2x plus the race
Get an indoor V5/6 ticked
Get on Too Drunk
Get on a rope again

STGs:
Climb consistently (2-3 times per week)
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (white/red) 1/?
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
Lead 1x Diff before 18 August
Complete 1st row on indoor routes pyramid 1/8

MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete the Mids XC Series
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
Get competent at skiing (Levels 1-3 done. Complete levels 4-6 at Chill Factore and do at least 6 social sessions)

LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder 7B
Lead a Severe
Do a Scottish skiing trip?
Winter III
Kili or Elbrus (and ski back down if Elbrus?)

BHAGs:
Boulder 8A
Winter V
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Be happy leading any reasonable multi-pitch route in the mountains
Some classic Alpine routes

In reply to Tyler:

Just avoid gritstone HVS and skip to E1...

In reply to Dandan:


It's gonna take a while to get it all written up, but here's a start:

http://allysmithblog.blogspot.co.uk/2016/07/a-blog-week-until-im-up-to-date...

In reply to Si dH:



F*ck yeah!!!

In reply to Si dH:

Nice one

In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. Slow start to week but 3 days on rock in the South West dodging weather so pretty pleased. Can't wait to tell you about the Monday after, but that's for next week's fit club!

M-W nothing - working/driving
T - Boulder Helman Tor on way to St Ives
F - Boulder Clodgy Point including awesome 6B+ with foot jam above head on weak ankle which survived!
S - Bosigran trad. Slightly tight for time as got stuck behind a slooooow party having a crisis on a shared belay and then had to get back for a sea swimming race at St Ives but Wow - wonderful rock and setting! Knocked out Little Brown Jug (VS 5a) warm up then Thin Wall Special (E1 5b) - for the latter the crux pitch was definitely the first, but had trouble warming up after an hour waiting on the belay ledge for sloooow couple to clear the crossing route, so invents a second crux at the top crack. Seals in the sea ... awesome. Then incredibly proud as Ben did the 2.2km sea swim in 32mins.
S - rainig, drive to Devon. Routes in Rock and Rapid