In reply to jimtitt:
Thanks Jim. Your quote here:
Being dropped from a sport route is a sign that you failed to communicate what you where going to do before leaving the ground, that your belayer didn´t understand and that you were a fool for letting go of the rope/unclipping before there was tension from the belayers side.
Let's take a typical sunday afternoon at the crag. The leader just manages to get to the chains and clips in. Exhausted but delighted, he shouts out what he is finally feeling after 20m of leading a tricky route: "safe". The belayer looks up: yup, the leader is clipped by a sling straight into the chains, the rope is slack. He takes him off belay so he can pull up slack thread the anchor and be lowered down again.
Some people who read this are probably thinking "so what's wrong with that?". They should read the paragraph again, because this is what might happen next: The climber threads the anchor, undoes the clip, checks all the knots good, leans back and is dropped down at 9.8 m/s squared.
I think there are three incidental mistakes here: saying safe, taking off belay, and not testing the tension of the rope before committing to the rope. You think they are fools for this. I also believe they are fools, but not because of what happened on the day. The essential mistake was to agree to use a system in which this train of events, so very forseeable and understandable, became possible. So I say: keep your leader on belay! That is the UIAA system - what is there to google?
As you state the BMC represents the interests of climbers. I think staying alive is in their interest. The BMC already publish guidelines on good belaying and other things on their skills pages, and on the poster they publish. Steve Long, who I mentioned above, is Technical Director of MLT. He sits on a working group with the BMC (more details on BMC website for those interested), which is pretty much what you would expect.
Dangerous situations arising from "miscommunication" in all its guises is quite common. Sadly it has killed in the past and will do so in the future, and it is quite avoidable.
See the recent "Mistaking Safe for Take / Half Deaf Belayers" thread here on UKC
Also, if you want to see the confusion about who is to "blame" in miscommunication accidents, and for evidence that it is not specific to the UK, look at
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post...
Jim, Johnny, its a shame we can't just go out and climb a few pitches together because then everything would become very clear - and I am sure climbing with you would be very safe and very fun. Putting it all in words is not my strong point. I am rushed and distracted. But it has become obvious that its a big problem that has killed plenty of people and that is why I urge everyone to use their common sense on this and think ahead on this issue.
Don't take my word for it - and don't take anyone else's word for it either. Ultimately its your life on the line and up to you, and your partner. Do your homework now - you are going to need it on the hill.