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Wessexy E2 5b

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30m. P1 15m 4c Follow Bad to the Bone to the slab, and trend right to reach a crevasse belay. P2 15m 5b. Spaced protection. Climb to a horizontal crack and continue to a diagonal fault. Follow this rightwards for a couple of delicate moves; then make a tricky rock up to gain a standing position in the fault and so reach the horizontal crack above (microwires and Friend 1). Step down and left; then move up to a good flat hold. Commit to a long move to gain a chunky sidepull up left and pull up to scrappy ground. Finish easily but carefully.
M Davies, P Robertson 11/Jun/2011
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Needs traffic, first section is a little overgrown.
riddle - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Neil Watson

Neil Watson - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Riddle

Lovely tough moves on the headwall
Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 18/May/13 with Andrew, Peter

Good route, nice moves..
HappyTrundler - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Ben, Pete

pheotleyr - 2nd β - 18/May/13 with Andrew, Ben

Harder than expected but a great route.
Stanners - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook

Had a small mental breakdown on this as it was the first route that was both relatively hard and bold since my three week climbing break and although the actual moves aren't all that bad there are only two points on the pitch where you can put gear in and both of them just about take 3 very small wires. So got to the final move a little way above my last pro where you have to make a pretty big lock off on a flat hold and reach up to get a side pull and ended up just hanging off the hold for what felt like an hour, basically just shitting myself. Although I knew I could do the move normally my legs were shaking pretty badly which meant it was really hard to stand on the essential matchstick edge and apply a sufficient amount of weight onto it without my foot moving all over the place. In the end I had to have a chat with myself which went something like "Jack stop acting like a little b!tch and stand on the foothold already" anyway once I brought myself to do that it was ok.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

Benchmark E2 5b. Nice moves, quite bold.
bpmclimb - Lead β - 03/Aug/11 with Clare

FA
The Pylon King - Lead RP - 11/Jun/11 with Paul Robertson

Paul Robertson - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Pylon King

Voting
Total votes cast 12
hard E30 of 3
E30 of 3
easy E30 of 3
hard E20 of 3
E23 of 3
easy E20 of 3
hard E10 of 3
E10 of 3
easy E10 of 3
hard 5c0 of 4
5c0 of 4
easy 5c0 of 4
hard 5b0 of 4
5b4 of 4
easy 5b0 of 4
hard 5a0 of 4
5a0 of 4
easy 5a0 of 4
3 Stars0 of 5
2 Stars1 of 5
1 Star3 of 5
0 Stars1 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
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