UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.

 

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

Rockfax Description
A great route up the left arete of the crag. Abseil to a triangular niche over to the left (looking in) as you descend.
1) 4a, 20m. From the niche, traverse left across easy terrain to a square-cut groove, with a small ledge at its top. Climb up to a break and traverse left to the arete. Move up to a good stance.
2) 4b, 22m. Climb direct to gain a slab leading to a roof (optional belay). Make committing moves to enter a corner. Climb this, and the wall on the left, to a ledge and belay.
3) 4a, 35m. Climb the groove then go up right to a ledge on the arete. Move right and continue to another ledge (optional belay). Make an awkward move through a step. Trend right to the abseil. © Rockfax

Ticklists

MIA logbook must haves! , Trad on every UK island , ICAS Climbing Club , Hobo Unicorn Essentials , Pre-MIA Wishlist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Libby Peter's VS Hit List , 2020/21 Trips , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , 2021 , Welsh Roadtrip , BSR multipitch routes , Llidberis , North Wales , North Wales isnt just slate apparently , British Rock Tour April '24

Feedback

User Date Notes
Salvo1 7 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome position as soon as you ab off down. 40m abseil!? Great 1st pitch steady traverse, a move trickier to get to the 1st stance. Cock your right foot high to establish the start to chimney. Great positions & the birds were immense
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome position as soon as you ab off down. 40m abseil!? Great 1st pitch steady traverse, a move trickier to get to the 1st stance. Cock your right foot high to establish the start to chimney. Great positions & the birds were immense
IainMunro 23 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 50m abseil ropes easily reach the first stance
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 50m abseil ropes easily reach the first stance
THE.WALRUS 4 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb - low in grade, high in everything else.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climb - low in grade, high in everything else.
Siongethinhill 19 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic position. Easiest VS Ive done!
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic position. Easiest VS Ive done!

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Followed
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Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
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Route of Interest
Green Light

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Smurf Zawn)

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