Slab Route** VD

Rockfax Description
A neat excursion spiralling up the left-hand side of the face. The route has long been popular with beginners. It is described with the Spiral Variant which avoids the tricky slab on the direct version of P2 and 3. Start just left of the block of The Capstan, below a broken rib.
1) 15m. Up the rib then move across left to a stance below a chimney with twin 'horns'.
2) 10m. Gain the chimney on the left awkwardly then up and exit leftwards to a stance.
3) 10m. Climb to a ledge then up the tricky crack on the right to a belay.
4) 12m. Move right 3m to a slab and up to the jammed flake of the Arch and a junction with the The Direct Route just before its famous hand traverse.
5) 14m. Up the groove on the left on huge flakes to a leftwards exit to an airy stance.
6) 12m. Finish up the rib to reach the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
5 Pitch

1.91e+03 Jan/1991
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This climb is in 27 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/15

David Walker - 2nd O/S - 23/May/15 with Paul Russell, Maria

Rock badly chewed-up in places by crampons. Paul missed the leftwards exit on P5, so thrutched up the chimney and laybacked out to the top of the rib, which added some extra spice!
MariaT - AltLd O/S - 23/May/15 with Paul Russell, David Walker

paulerussell - AltLd O/S - 23/May/15 with David Walker, Maria Walker

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14

carl_123 - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

Permia - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/14 with Dan Garnett

rbharries - Solo - 2014 with neils EW

Final pitch was worth it on the exposed rib. Though navigating the grass at the start of it was tricky and gearless.
Amber Chaloner - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Hayley Graham

cut from 6 to 3 pitches, great fun, was a warm day but as north facing rock was cold and little damp. generally nice big jugs with the odd difficulty e.g. on exit crack (top of guide pitch #5)
Robin Brooke - AltLd - Jun/13 with Paula Ryan

Pryan - AltLd - Jun/13 with Robin Brooke

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/09

nikmorgan - 2nd - Oct/06 with Martyn Beardsley

Hidden - Solo - 14/Aug/03

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jul/03

Iain Thow - Solo - 06/May/95

nigehughes - AltLd - Apr/88 with Colin Bell

Hidden - May/80

mikej - Lead - 01/Jan/79 with Mike Mason

Nigel Bond - Lead - 26/Jul/75 with Donald Workman

Rog Wilko - Lead - Jun/71

eroica64 - 2nd - Jul/65 with Bill Harrison

While working at Pen y Gwrhyd Hotel.
eroica64 - 2nd - 02/May/65 with Bill Harrison

Bob Caulkwell OUMC meet
oldmanofmow - 2nd - Jun/59

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Federico Sher, Matadoors, fleapitfan, franny

Total votes cast 12
hard HVD0 of 6
HVD0 of 6
easy HVD0 of 6
hard VD0 of 6
VD6 of 6
easy VD0 of 6
hard HD0 of 6
HD0 of 6
easy HD0 of 6
3 Stars0 of 6
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat