Lead P1. Hand traverse was cool but there was a rather spicy move around the arÍte. Fair play to Brad for leading the final pitch, don't go into the crack - you won't get out! Don't think the last pitch is 4c, maybe 5a but there's plenty of gear.
akhutton88 - AltLd - 23/May/15 with Brad
Hidden - 2015
Hidden - 2015
centurion05 - 2015
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14
Following CS and Roger. Definitely not 4c with packs on, as we walked over the top back to Pen-y-Gwyrd
dtalbot - AltLd - 19/Sep/14 with Wm
bob johnson - AltLd - 13/Sep/14 with Bram
georgenvk - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Becks87
Becks87 - 2nd - 13/Sep/14 with George
Led pitch 1 and 3. Found the route technical in places, suprisingly the third pitch. Finished up the vdiff pitch as partner didn't manage the final VS pitch and running out of light. Climbed at the end of a marathon days climbing in the ogwen valley, 11 hours car to car.
ralphio - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/14 with Maumau
Hidden - AltLd - 04/Sep/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14
An adventurous route with exciting climbing from the outset. First the Teetering Leg Traverse, followed by the Pocketed Downclimb. Look out for the Bilberry Cam Placement preceding the Hand Traverse of Doom. The winter finish with the greasy Corner of Death provides a fitting close to the drama, climaxing on the knife edged Block of Damocles. Best done in gale force winds with a fine drizzle in failing light.
Denry - 2nd β - 16/Aug/14 with Neils Ernst-Williams
I led pitches 1, 3 & 5, so I definitely think I got the best of the route. I found the hand traverse really rather scary - my feet cut loose a couple of times, perhaps my soles were damp. In contrast the top pitch was a safe but very strenuous struggle. If it is 4c, then I've led easier 5a pitches. I think VS 5a gives a better idea of what's involved - it certainly is not HS - an HS leader would have a pretty torrid time of it!
Jen Mason - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Kim
Led P2 and P3
Matt Harmon - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Calum Harvey
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14
saraguti - 09/Aug/14
Not sure it deserves 3 stars. The VDiff alternate pitch was the best on the route..!
Dawn_K_B - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Sam Ashworth
Hidden - AltLd - 07/Aug/14
Mike Tutt - Lead - 20/Jul/14
erbridger - AltLd - 04/Jul/14 with Kate Edhouse
All good, the last pitch is hard and v.strenuous
Kate Edhouse - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/14 with Emily Bridger
Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/14
With Hodgkin's variation
LDJ - AltLd - 29/Jun/14 with Alfie
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14
Led all pitches. Joe's first outdoor climb.
K Mckay - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Joe Jegat
With Gibson's chimney variation. Led last pitch. Felt more like VS than HS.
James Oakes - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/14 with Dan Gyi, Gareth Hooson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/14
only top pitch , after lots groove . found chimney very tricky and strenuous !
Pinguville - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/14 with George
Really nice route. Included 'Gibson's Chimney' pitch variation - recommended. And, yes, the final crack is a beast if your jamming isn't up to scratch...
Ending with a mini epic of stuck rope, re-climbing an abseil, and another dose of stuck rope for good measure. "Instructional"
robthered - AltLd - 22/Jun/14
Fragmod - Lead - 20/Jun/14
First outdoor climb. Tricky hand traverse
JoeJegat - 2nd RP - 19/Jun/14 with Katie McKay
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/14
went for winter finish so no 4c tick. Final pitch quite slimey.
JasonV - AltLd - 15/Jun/14 with Phil C, Alun
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14
Pitches 2 and 4. Nice, varied climb.
Goodstuff - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Ian Crook, Tim Howarth
Moving together, then pitched final off-width. Lovely rock but very slimey where wet. Climbed in the drizzle as the crag was inside a cloud.
Dan724 - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/14 with James Williams
moved together and pitched the final offwidth which dan lead. great route. bit wet in the cloud which made the final crack interesting !
JamesWilliams - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/14 with Dan Hale
cheeky - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/14 with Mark Philipson
had its moments in the wet. hand traverse greasy.luckily dried out on top pitch.
mark4344 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/14 with Matt Payne
Helen Gibson - AltLd - 31/May/14 with Jacquie
jon59 - Lead - 30/May/14
Andrew Lester - 19/May/14
In 4 pitches and I did 2 and 4. Really good route. Thanks for letting me have the top pitch kc. Good honest hard work. But never h's 4c. 😂
luke glaister - AltLd rpt - 16/May/14 with casey johns
casey johns - 2nd RP - 16/May/14 with luke glaister
Lead P2 and 4.
MartF - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with Stu Spencer
colinthomson5 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Andrew Patten
Si - 2014
mike mo - 2014
innesmac - 2014
Hidden - 2014
Allanfairfechan - 2014
nj.harris - 2014
waynekinrade - Lead - 2014
darrenpp - Lead O/S - 2014
Cold but good, snowy scramble to the top.
j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/13
More like 5a crack finish
Ray Sparks - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/13 with paul
Nice not as 'classic' as Main Wall say but some nice moves. Thought the rising crack pitch would be longer, short lived and not that easy to recognise at first. (Don't know what the leg jam would be about...)
Top crack was tough for grade 5a top end? Ray gave it his all! Good effort buddy.
beds74 - AltLd - 21/Sep/13 with Ray Sparks
What a fantastic route. Did in 5 pitches. I did 1 , 3 and 5. The top pitch is a beast. All I needed was music cause the leg was dancing. .. a great challenge.
luke glaister - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with andrew(willy)wilson
lead 2 and 4 pitches
mikestr555 - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13
Top pitch was well above HS grade, overhanging jamming crack!
Gareth T - Lead dog - 20/Aug/13 with Jane Woulds
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13
Hidden - Lead - 10/Aug/13
Roget - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/13 with jim
steve prior - AltLd - Aug/13 with Andy C
Prof. Outdoors - AltLd - 27/Jul/13 with Wendy
Huw Mithan - AltLd - 21/Jul/13 with Jonathan Parton
Lead P2 and P4 (See below).
Awesome climb and fairly easy going climbing untill the last pitch which is nails and no where near an HS unless you have practiced some crack technique. We unfortunately had done none and it meant we couldn't get the whole way up, instead we retreated and did the route just the other side of the corner, This this was meant to be a S but again felt harder with allot of off balance clibing - Maybe I was just tired!
On a whole awesoe climb though and will come back one day after tackling a few more cracks and nail that last pitch!
JonParton - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Huw Mithan
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13
Did the winter finish, so no 4c tick. The final corner crack was too hard for me. Did a hand traverse but not entirely sure it was 'the' hand traverse.
RiPomc - AltLd - 20/Jul/13 with Julie Cooke
Had already done most of it many years ago, but did the true finish this time - which was easier than I'd built it up to be in my imagination. Hand traverse was much shorter than I remembered. This time I did it as a foot traverse, which is probably cheating as despite what the guidebook suggests, it's miles easier that way.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd - 20/Jul/13 with Carmen
I led 2nd pitch. We finished up Winter finish, so not a 4c tick. My first HS pitch though!
JCookie - AltLd - 20/Jul/13 with Richard Plater
Hidden - AltLd dog - 12/Jul/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13
Can't believe last pitch is only HS more like VS, other than the last pitch it's relatively steady. Great day out!
scott mayled - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with George best
herman0055 - AltLd - 09/Jul/13 with scott mayled
With Gibson's and right hand crack
alaster tonge - AltLd - 30/Jun/13 with Will Boxal
Rupey - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with alan
Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Ceara, Mel
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13
Mmmm, a toughie to grade, HS all the way to the Final Crack then a very solid VS. It might be the original way but doesn't feel in keeping with the rest of the route. Hodgkinsons or Winter Finish would be more logical.
Zoomer - 26/May/13 with Baz Whale
Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/13
Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/13
KateBolton - 2nd - 25/May/13 with mikehenesy
After a 3 hr walk in via the scenic glyder fawr and some elves and fantastic of the beaten track boulders. High in the shade and hence cold, sorry Kate and your numb hands. Did the winter finish this time which was excellent. Exciting abb back to the base.
mikehenesy - Lead - May/13 with Kate
chris ginge - Lead - 2013
TheAndyBarker - 2013
Richard Kinsman - Lead O/S - 2013
Hidden - AltLd - 2013
So very, very cold. Could not feel fingers or toes after first few metres, but we took time at each belay to warm up. Daymo did a heroic lead of the final pitch in the freezing conditions - felt a lot harder than HS.
deejmonkey - AltLd - 27/Oct/12 with Damian
Oh my life. DJ and I choose to climb this route in freezing conditions. We took our time and had to assess the situation of how freezing cold we were all of the time. We kept our heads and got it done. I dogged the last pitch with freezing hands and toes. Fantastic! Again and epic with my Erb DJ
Daymo - AltLd dog - 27/Oct/12 with DJ
Very tough top pitch! Would have helped if I hadn't been using Alistairs rock shoes as I'd forgotten mine. Decided to abseil down the top pitch to clean it as Owen didn't fancy it and so we also did the Winter Finish.
Darrell Read - Lead - 29/Sep/12 with Owen Tomlinson
ads - AltLd - 22/Jul/12 with Julie
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/12
carl_123 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12
wendynicholls - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Dan Slome
Hidden - 2nd - 27/May/12
guy757 - 26/May/12
fi15 - 2nd - 26/May/12
Betha. - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Neil D
Neil D - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Beth Hodgett
Fun route. We took the Gibson's chimney variation, and then dodged up the gully to avoid the final pitch (which was looking unpleasant from the assessment of the party ahead). Should go back and do it properly.
cameron_hall - Lead dnf - 12/May/12 with Miles Horton
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12
led 1st pitch and hand traverse, 'let' youth take final crack pitch ( thank god ! )
tiga271 - AltLd - 24/Mar/12 with mark20
Darron - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - 2012
TheAndyBarker - 2012
TheAndyBarker - 2012
Ian JL - 2012
Hidden - 2012
goadventure1 - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Stone Idle - 2012
al99 - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Lee Wales
Did in 4 pitches. Missed the hand traverse but saw it from above. I was not at all elegant grunting my way up the final pitch. Amazing though!
SianR - AltLd - 01/Oct/11 with Emily
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Oct/11
neal_haddadway - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Jonny Richard
Awesome end to the day, got JT on the 4c corner finish (had to retreive a drop nut before I followed him).
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Jon Thompson
Billiant climb, the last pitch (corner crack) is interesting
Andrew Lester - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/11
Joe and Fidel went before us. Led in 5 pitches.
Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Sarah Rolfe, Fidel Sciamanna, Joe Mallia
joemallia - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Tim Rolfe, Sarah Rolfe, Fidel Sciamanna
hazeysunshine - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Sue H
did the winter finish, as was heather's lead, but it was a really nice easy finish, with some good moves
skittles - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Heather Williams
Kaiser999 - May/11 with Derek
aged_ape - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11
Bex_M - AltLd - 29/Apr/11 with Claire Ellwood
Pete did hand traverse, i did the finish which isn't that bad, looks intimidating though. Cold despite the sunshine (which doesn't arrive till 4)
lithos - AltLd - 28/Apr/11
Hidden - 2011
Swirly - 2011
rurp - Lead - 2011
bullybones - 2011
Hidden - AltLd - 2011
amthalmann - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Gerard
Easy going until you get to the top which is strenuous for HS (but excellent holds)
GOS - AltLd - 04/Sep/10 with Amanda Thalmann
Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/10
Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/10
Led last & second to last pitches. Used Gibson's Chimney (VS) and when up the fare right slanting chimney.
marcduhig - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Andrew
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/10
Gibsons Chimney was excellent. Final crack is nails, didn't think I'd make it even seconding!
fizzychewitt - AltLd - 27/Jun/10 with Dave
My second climb outside, lead by Garry and Gerrard with LC&CC. great weather, great climb.
Teshiie - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/10
with direct chimney pitch. top pitch is brilliant, maybe a bit hard for hard severe...
david morse - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with owain
Alt leads Andy led 1st then 3 and 4 as a one mine was the 5th pitch; although I bridged up the right hand side of the ledge - couldn't find the hand traverse! Any led the last 2 pitches - no way the last pitch is only HS 4c
gilbert - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Andy Holder
Glyn - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Trystan
Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Jun/10
Ows - AltLd - Jun/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10
Rob Pitt - AltLd - 31/May/10 with Helen Pitt
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/May/10
matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 15/May/10
Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/09
Found a very steady climb until the final crack (orig finish) which was a big change in gear: brutal, like wrestling - with much grunting (def VS). A cracking finale!
jimorothy - AltLd - 18/Sep/09 with Rachel Crolla
did a harder variation of the first pitch cause the real pitch was very wet... other than that easy climbing.. till the last pitch which was well hard! had to rest on gear... defiantly atleast vs if you do the original finish.
adam06 - AltLd - 11/Sep/09 with dan sturman
Took a group of three, leading all pitches. Was drizzling, cold and damp. I found the hand traverse impossible, since the layer of slime on the rock meant there was nothing for the feet, and all that was possible was hand over hand pullups for about 5 metres up the diagonal handrail on polished wet rock. Another party from our group was climbing the pitch above and brought me up on a top rope (basically pulled up!)
Mike Roach - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/09 with Tom Giles
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 27/Aug/09
Thought the final pitch was a bit tough for the grade, well protected but sustained. I surprised i did it clean too, i normally slide out of this type of thing!
asmith37 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Bex Leigh
Winter Finish. Mike ran 1st 2 pitches together, so I did 3 & 5. The 'Hand Traverse' is overhyped, really it's nowt.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Mike Nuttall
nakedave - Lead - Jul/09
Pitches 1, 2 & 4.
Mike Bayley - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Martin Stevens
With Gibsons Chimney pitch. Nice long route, felt a bit disjointed though.
jezb1 - AltLd - 30/May/09
mike_uk82 - AltLd - 30/May/09
Calder - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09 with Andy Clow
@ndy - AltLd - 02/May/09 with calder
Noodles30 - AltLd - Apr/09 with Joe Sims
Hidden - 27/Sep/08
followed K & J
climbingxcat - AltLd β - 27/Sep/08 with Brian
Hidden - AltLd - 18/Sep/08
Hidden - AltLd - 24/Aug/08
Peter Reynolds - Solo - Aug/08
great climb great dayout
robo84 - AltLd - 15/Jun/08
Final pitch to finish link.
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Jane Terry
Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Clive
Clivest - 2nd dnf - 08/Jun/08 with Ewan Russell
Finished via Hodgkin's variation
leonjones - AltLd - 07/Jun/08 with Phil Barley and Max Streeton
sammoore - AltLd O/S - 11/May/08 with Will Sutcliffe
cas54321 - 2nd - May/08 with Mike
daveagriff - Lead - 2008
Hidden - AltLd - 2008
Hidden - 2nd - 05/Oct/07
Certainly not HS when cold and wet, and how come this is the only place I've climbed in Wales which becomes a slime fest when wet? May re-climb in better style when dry!
Caralynh - AltLd - 29/Sep/07 with Dan (dpmuk)
Hidden - AltLd dog - 29/Sep/07
the juicy dangler - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/07 with james marjot
With an alternative last pitch!
EAYL - AltLd - 11/Sep/07 with Dr.Strangeglove
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Pete aka Dad
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Helen
Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/07
J R R Hartley - 2nd O/S - 05/May/07 with Captain Crag
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/07
Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/07
Hidden - Solo O/S - 14/Apr/07
bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Paul
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07
brighters - 2007
Sean Kelly - 2007
EAYL - AltLd - 09/Sep/06 with Iain, mike
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/06 with Maggie
BALD EAGLE - Lead - 08/Jul/06 with Christian Darr
twodada - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Rich Barnes
Cracking day out, think the last pitch may be VS? Bit confused.
Good old fashioned thrutching inelegant but brilliant finish though. Those other boys, Dean Cook and the Asbridge lad, threw their toys out the pram and went for tea and stickies!
mikehenesy - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Chris Lodge
NewLeaf - AltLd - Jun/06 with roslyn
Pelleas - AltLd - 14/Apr/06 with Norman
Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/06
mikelaing - 2006
beardy mike - 2006
unfit - AltLd - 2006 with john N
Hidden - AltLd - 24/Sep/05
Daigroom - 2nd - Sep/05 with Tim
The Oracle - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/04 with Pete Taylor
Jamie B - AltLd - Jun/04 with Kris Quayle
Hidden - Lead - 11/Oct/03
Tom M Williams - 2nd O/S - Jul/03 with Andy Davies
Tough 4c corner on last pitch.
Gman - AltLd O/S - Jul/03 with James
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/03
Mark Riley - AltLd - Jun/03
jimshrimp - AltLd O/S - 29/May/03
Stone Muppet - 2003
Steve Lenartowicz - 2003 with Pammy
Hidden - 2003
DerwentDiluted - AltLd - Nov/02 with J. Ellson
led as far as far side of hand traverse then fell off- Bill finished up the VS crack
Ann S - Lead dnf - Sep/02 with Bill Harrison
The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/02 with Kate Hare, Mary Kirwin
Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/01
Mike_T0501 - AltLd - 27/Jun/01
Hidden - 2nd - Jun/01
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/01
rlrs - AltLd - 2001
I led the first and third pitches.
Rob Oram - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/00 with Tom Asbridge
cem - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/00 with Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss
Finished by Hodgkin's, which we thought was VS 4c.
Rog Wilko - AltLd - Jun/00 with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden - 2000
bullybones - 2000
alan moore - Solo - 2000
runestone - 2000
Darragh - Jun/99 with Rob
Really enjoyed the 'rectangular excursion' and hand traverse.
Ian Archer - Lead - 16/May/99 with Ian Moore
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - May/99 with Mike
BenTiffin - Lead - Feb/99
mjeffery - 1999
Tony Buckley - AltLd - Jul/98
sixties - AltLd - 14/May/98 with hrd
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 1998 with Nick Hanie
IanGilbertJones - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/97
Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/97
stokienomad - Lead - 06/Jul/97
Hidden - AltLd dog - 27/Jul/96
Hidden - AltLd - 03/Aug/95
Budge - AltLd O/S - Jul/95 with Richard Teed
Tough last pitch.
Babika - Lead - 07/May/95 with Sean Toms
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/94
stokienomad - 1994
DavPk - AltLd - 1993 with Gareth Wood
Ched - Lead O/S - 1993 with Glanfor
Hidden - Lead - 27/Apr/91
phardman - 1990
Chris Craggs - 1990 with Dave Spencer
Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jul/89
babymoac - Lead - 24/Jun/89 with Chris B
nigehughes - Lead - Jun/88 with Mark Troy
Raggar - AltLd - 21/May/88 with Steve B
rogerskews - 1988 with Richard Walters, Martin Coward
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/86 with dave hatcher
Nigel Bond - Lead - 11/May/86 with Chris
Nick Biven - 1986
Hidden - Solo - Jun/85
nigehughes - AltLd - Nov/83 with Eric Joyce
MikeDowsett - AltLd - 1981 with Jon Sharpe
mikej - Lead - 28/Oct/78 with Andy Auty
Bolt Phobia - Lead - 17/May/77
Simon cook - Aug/75
I have pencilled 'Snow and Ice' next to the route description in my copy of the Ron James guide.
Falko - AltLd O/S - 15/Dec/74 with Bill Briggs
Mike Owen - Aug/74 with John Roberts
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1969
jcw - Lead - 16/Oct/65 with Dai Rowlands
Bob Caulkwell OUMC meet
oldmanofmow - 2nd - Jun/59