A classic outing, varied and interesting with a devious but logical line. Very popular and it only has a couple of hard sections - the hand traverse on P3 and the final pitch. Start directly above the large conspicuous block of The Capstan.
1) 4a, 28m. Climb up the rib and cross over left beneath some blocks. Climb up through these rightwards to a grassy ledge with a huge bollard.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb the corner on the left then move delicately leftwards out across the face before striding round the arete to the jammed flake of The Arch. Belay further left.
3) 4b, 20m. Gain a ledge on the right then move up and swing across the hand-traverse to ledges above Gibson's Chimney. Continue to a good stance on the ledge of The Veranda.
4) 8m. Move the belay to the right-hand end of The Veranda to below the final corner.
4a) 18m. The Winter Finish, VDiff. A variant ending. Move left along the flakes and up the corner to the top.
5) 4c, 20m. Climb up right behind the large spike, then move back left to below the wide awkward Coffin Chimney and superb groove of Final Crack. Do battle with these and wonder at the pioneers who did it back in 1907! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Wendy Watthews||10/Oct||AltLd O/S|
Done in 3 pitches with Gibson's Chimney variation. Nice way up the centre of the crag, the top pitch has great gear but is sustained and awkward as hell.
Done in 3 pitches with Gibson's Chimney
Didn't fancy last pitch in the dark
|Gerallt Owain||08/Sep||AltLd O/S|
|D Berry||15/Aug||AltLd O/S||
Did not seem worthy of 3 stars. Even pitches as descirbed in CC guide, with The Winter Finish.
|Wayne S||15/Aug||AltLd O/S||
O.K. route, but not a three star classic in my book. Route was wet on every pitch on a dry day, suspect it needs a week of dry weather to be in condition. Perhaps three stars on half a dozen days a year! That said it was pretty dull and disjointed climbing. A great situation but does that alone make a classic?
|chris cockbain||12/Aug||AltLd O/S|
|Tom Draude||12/Aug||AltLd O/S||
I don't understand how the last pitch can be graded 4C but the overall climb given hard severe. The last pitch is pretty unpleasant, especially for the right foot!
Lead P1. Hand traverse was cool but there was a rather spicy move around the arÍte. Fair play to Brad for leading the final pitch, don't go into the crack - you won't get out! Don't think the last pitch is 4c, maybe 5a but there's plenty of gear.
Following CS and Roger. Definitely not 4c with packs on, as we walked over the top back to Pen-y-Gwyrd
Led pitch 1 and 3. Found the route technical in places, suprisingly the third pitch. Finished up the vdiff pitch as partner didn't manage the final VS pitch and running out of light. Climbed at the end of a marathon days climbing in the ogwen valley, 11 hours car to car.
An adventurous route with exciting climbing from the outset. First the Teetering Leg Traverse, followed by the Pocketed Downclimb. Look out for the Bilberry Cam Placement preceding the Hand Traverse of Doom. The winter finish with the greasy Corner of Death provides a fitting close to the drama, climaxing on the knife edged Block of Damocles. Best done in gale force winds with a fine drizzle in failing light.
|Jen Mason||16/Aug/14||AltLd O/S||
I led pitches 1, 3 & 5, so I definitely think I got the best of the route. I found the hand traverse really rather scary - my feet cut loose a couple of times, perhaps my soles were damp. In contrast the top pitch was a safe but very strenuous struggle. If it is 4c, then I've led easier 5a pitches. I think VS 5a gives a better idea of what's involved - it certainly is not HS - an HS leader would have a pretty torrid time of it!
|Matt Harmon||09/Aug/14||AltLd O/S||
Led P2 and P3
Not sure it deserves 3 stars. The VDiff alternate pitch was the best on the route..!
|Kate Edhouse||30/Jun/14||AltLd O/S||
All good, the last pitch is hard and v.strenuous
With Hodgkin's variation
|K Mckay||26/Jun/14||Lead O/S||
Led all pitches. Joe's first outdoor climb.
|James Oakes||25/Jun/14||AltLd O/S||
With Gibson's chimney variation. Led last pitch. Felt more like VS than HS.
only top pitch , after lots groove . found chimney very tricky and strenuous !
Really nice route. Included 'Gibson's Chimney' pitch variation - recommended. And, yes, the final crack is a beast if your jamming isn't up to scratch... Ending with a mini epic of stuck rope, re-climbing an abseil, and another dose of stuck rope for good measure. "Instructional"
First outdoor climb. Tricky hand traverse
went for winter finish so no 4c tick. Final pitch quite slimey.
Phil C, Alun
Pitches 2 and 4. Nice, varied climb.
Ian Crook, Tim Howarth
Moving together, then pitched final off-width. Lovely rock but very slimey where wet. Climbed in the drizzle as the crag was inside a cloud.
moved together and pitched the final offwidth which dan lead. great route. bit wet in the cloud which made the final crack interesting !
had its moments in the wet. hand traverse greasy.luckily dried out on top pitch.
|luke glaister||16/May/14||AltLd rpt||
In 4 pitches and I did 2 and 4. Really good route. Thanks for letting me have the top pitch kc. Good honest hard work. But never h's 4c. 😂
|casey johns||16/May/14||2nd RP|
Lead P2 and 4.
Cold but good, snowy scramble to the top.
|Ray Sparks||21/Sep/13||AltLd O/S||
More like 5a crack finish
Nice not as 'classic' as Main Wall say but some nice moves. Thought the rising crack pitch would be longer, short lived and not that easy to recognise at first. (Don't know what the leg jam would be about...) Top crack was tough for grade 5a top end? Ray gave it his all! Good effort buddy.
|luke glaister||26/Aug/13||AltLd O/S||
What a fantastic route. Did in 5 pitches. I did 1 , 3 and 5. The top pitch is a beast. All I needed was music cause the leg was dancing. .. a great challenge.
lead 2 and 4 pitches
|Gareth T||20/Aug/13||Lead dog||
Top pitch was well above HS grade, overhanging jamming crack!
Lead P2 and P4 (See below). Awesome climb and fairly easy going climbing untill the last pitch which is nails and no where near an HS unless you have practiced some crack technique. We unfortunately had done none and it meant we couldn't get the whole way up, instead we retreated and did the route just the other side of the corner, This this was meant to be a S but again felt harder with allot of off balance clibing - Maybe I was just tired! On a whole awesoe climb though and will come back one day after tackling a few more cracks and nail that last pitch!
Did the winter finish, so no 4c tick. The final corner crack was too hard for me. Did a hand traverse but not entirely sure it was 'the' hand traverse.
Had already done most of it many years ago, but did the true finish this time - which was easier than I'd built it up to be in my imagination. Hand traverse was much shorter than I remembered. This time I did it as a foot traverse, which is probably cheating as despite what the guidebook suggests, it's miles easier that way.
I led 2nd pitch. We finished up Winter finish, so not a 4c tick. My first HS pitch though!
|scott mayled||09/Jul/13||AltLd O/S||
Can't believe last pitch is only HS more like VS, other than the last pitch it's relatively steady. Great day out!
With Gibson's and right hand crack
Mmmm, a toughie to grade, HS all the way to the Final Crack then a very solid VS. It might be the original way but doesn't feel in keeping with the rest of the route. Hodgkinsons or Winter Finish would be more logical.
After a 3 hr walk in via the scenic glyder fawr and some elves and fantastic of the beaten track boulders. High in the shade and hence cold, sorry Kate and your numb hands. Did the winter finish this time which was excellent. Exciting abb back to the base.
|Richard Kinsman||??/2013||Lead O/S|
|Andrew will wilson||??/2013||AltLd||
"Hand traverse" is easier done as a foot traverse. Due to polish, top pitch =HS? Must of been on drugs when they graded it!!!! VS for sure!
So very, very cold. Could not feel fingers or toes after first few metres, but we took time at each belay to warm up. Daymo did a heroic lead of the final pitch in the freezing conditions - felt a lot harder than HS.
Oh my life. DJ and I choose to climb this route in freezing conditions. We took our time and had to assess the situation of how freezing cold we were all of the time. We kept our heads and got it done. I dogged the last pitch with freezing hands and toes. Fantastic! Again and epic with my Erb DJ
Very tough top pitch! Would have helped if I hadn't been using Alistairs rock shoes as I'd forgotten mine. Decided to abseil down the top pitch to clean it as Owen didn't fancy it and so we also did the Winter Finish.
|Neil D||12/May/12||AltLd O/S||
Fun route. We took the Gibson's chimney variation, and then dodged up the gully to avoid the final pitch (which was looking unpleasant from the assessment of the party ahead). Should go back and do it properly.
led 1st pitch and hand traverse, 'let' youth take final crack pitch ( thank god ! )
Did in 4 pitches. Missed the hand traverse but saw it from above. I was not at all elegant grunting my way up the final pitch. Amazing though!
|Alex Thompson||17/Aug/11||AltLd O/S||
Awesome end to the day, got JT on the 4c corner finish (had to retreive a drop nut before I followed him).
|Andrew Lester||15/Jun/11||AltLd O/S||
Billiant climb, the last pitch (corner crack) is interesting
|Fat Tim||04/Jun/11||Lead O/S||
Joe and Fidel went before us. Led in 5 pitches.
did the winter finish, as was heather's lead, but it was a really nice easy finish, with some good moves
Pete did hand traverse, i did the finish which isn't that bad, looks intimidating though. Cold despite the sunshine (which doesn't arrive till 4)
Easy going until you get to the top which is strenuous for HS (but excellent holds)
Led last & second to last pitches. Used Gibson's Chimney (VS) and when up the fare right slanting chimney.
Gibsons Chimney was excellent. Final crack is nails, didn't think I'd make it even seconding!
My second climb outside, lead by Garry and Gerrard with LC&CC. great weather, great climb.
|david morse||22/Jun/10||AltLd O/S||
with direct chimney pitch. top pitch is brilliant, maybe a bit hard for hard severe...
Alt leads Andy led 1st then 3 and 4 as a one mine was the 5th pitch; although I bridged up the right hand side of the ledge - couldn't find the hand traverse! Any led the last 2 pitches - no way the last pitch is only HS 4c
Found a very steady climb until the final crack (orig finish) which was a big change in gear: brutal, like wrestling - with much grunting (def VS). A cracking finale!
did a harder variation of the first pitch cause the real pitch was very wet... other than that easy climbing.. till the last pitch which was well hard! had to rest on gear... defiantly atleast vs if you do the original finish.
|Mike Roach||29/Aug/09||Lead dnf||
Took a group of three, leading all pitches. Was drizzling, cold and damp. I found the hand traverse impossible, since the layer of slime on the rock meant there was nothing for the feet, and all that was possible was hand over hand pullups for about 5 metres up the diagonal handrail on polished wet rock. Another party from our group was climbing the pitch above and brought me up on a top rope (basically pulled up!)
Thought the final pitch was a bit tough for the grade, well protected but sustained. I surprised i did it clean too, i normally slide out of this type of thing!
Winter Finish. Mike ran 1st 2 pitches together, so I did 3 & 5. The 'Hand Traverse' is overhyped, really it's nowt.
|Mike Bayley||11/Jun/09||AltLd O/S||
Pitches 1, 2 & 4.
With Gibsons Chimney pitch. Nice long route, felt a bit disjointed though.
followed K & J
great climb great dayout
|Alex Thompson||08/Jun/08||AltLd O/S||
Final pitch to finish link.
|Ewan Russell||08/Jun/08||Lead O/S||
Finished via Hodgkin's variation
Phil Barley and Max Streeton
Certainly not HS when cold and wet, and how come this is the only place I've climbed in Wales which becomes a slime fest when wet? May re-climb in better style when dry!
With an alternative last pitch!
|Graeme Hammond||25/Aug/07||Lead O/S||
Pete aka Dad
|J R R Hartley||05/May/07||2nd O/S||
Cracking day out, think the last pitch may be VS? Bit confused. Good old fashioned thrutching inelegant but brilliant finish though. Those other boys, Dean Cook and the Asbridge lad, threw their toys out the pram and went for tea and stickies!
|The Oracle||15/Aug/04||AltLd O/S||
|Tom M Williams||?/Jul/03||2nd O/S||
Tough 4c corner on last pitch.
|Ann S||?/Sep/02||Lead dnf||
led as far as far side of hand traverse then fell off- Bill finished up the VS crack
|The Bad Cough||14/Jul/02||AltLd O/S||
Kate Hare, Mary Kirwin
|Rob Oram||30/Jul/00||AltLd O/S||
I led the first and third pitches.
Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss
Finished by Hodgkin's, which we thought was VS 4c.
Really enjoyed the 'rectangular excursion' and hand traverse.
|Simon Caldwell||?/May/99||AltLd O/S||
Tough last pitch.
Richard Walters, Martin Coward
|michael burrows||17/Aug/86||AltLd O/S||
I have pencilled 'Snow and Ice' next to the route description in my copy of the Ron James guide.
Bob Caulkwell OUMC meet