UKC Logbook - 'Direct Route'

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Logbooks & Crags

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Gwynedd > Glyder Fach >

Direct Route

HS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Main Gully Ridge

The Winter Finish >>

[Daymo approaching the veranda on Direct route, Glyder Fach, 2 kb]

88m, 7 pitches. A classic outing, varied and interesting with a devious but logical line. Popular and with only a couple of hard section - the hand traverse on P4 and the final pitch 1) 4a, 28m. Climb up the rib and cross over right beneath some blocks. Climb up through these to a grassy ledge with a huge bollard 2) 4a, 20m. Climb the corner, then move delicately leftwards out across the face beneath before striding round the arete to the jammed flake of the Arch. Belay further left. 2a) Gibson's Chimney, VS 4c, 16m. Good but bold towards the top 3) 4b, 20m. Gain a ledge on the right then move up and swing across the hand traverse to ledges above Gibson's Chimney. Continue to a good stance on the ledge of Veranda 4) 4c, 20m. Move right along the ledge to the finish; the wide awkward Coffin Chimney and superb groove of the Final Crack, a good effort for 1907. 4a) VDiff,18m. The Winter Finish. Move left along the flakes and up the corner to the top. © ROCKFAX
7 Pitch

Ticklists: Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK..

Photo: Daymo approaching the veranda on Direct route, Glyder Fach © deejmonkey
View all 9 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 171 logbooks, and on 44 wishlists.

chris ginge - Lead - 2013

So very, very cold. Could not feel fingers or toes after first few metres, but we took time at each belay to warm up. Daymo did a heroic lead of the final pitch in the freezing conditions - felt a lot harder than HS.
deejmonkey - AltLd - 27/Oct/12 with Damian

Oh my life. DJ and I choose to climb this route in freezing conditions. We took our time and had to assess the situation of how freezing cold we were all of the time. We kept our heads and got it done. I dogged the last pitch with freezing hands and toes. Fantastic! Again and epic with my Erb DJ
Daymo - AltLd dog - 27/Oct/12 with DJ

Very tough top pitch! Would have helped if I hadn't been using Alistairs rock shoes as I'd forgotten mine. Decided to abseil down the top pitch to clean it as Owen didn't fancy it and so we also did the Winter Finish.
Darrell Read - Lead - 29/Sep/12 with Owen Tomlinson

ads - AltLd - 22/Jul/12 with Julie

carl_123 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12

wendynicholls - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Dan Slome

Hidden - 2nd - 27/May/12

guy757 - 26/May/12

fi15 - 2nd - 26/May/12

Betha. - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Neil D

Led P1,3,5.
Neil D - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Beth Hodgett

Fun route. We took the Gibson's chimney variation, and then dodged up the gully to avoid the final pitch (which was looking unpleasant from the assessment of the party ahead). Should go back and do it properly.
cameron_hall - Lead dnf - 12/May/12 with Miles Horton

mark20 - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12

led 1st pitch and hand traverse, 'let' youth take final crack pitch ( thank god ! )
tiga271 - AltLd - 24/Mar/12 with mark20

Darron - 2012

Hidden - 2012

TheAndyBarker - 2012

Ian JL - 2012

Hidden - 2012

goadventure1 - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

al99 - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Lee Wales

Did in 4 pitches. Missed the hand traverse but saw it from above. I was not at all elegant grunting my way up the final pitch. Amazing though!
SianR - AltLd - 01/Oct/11 with Emily

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Oct/11

neal_haddadway - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Jonny Richard

Awesome end to the day, got JT on the 4c corner finish (had to retreive a drop nut before I followed him).
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Jon Thompson

Billiant climb, the last pitch (corner crack) is interesting
Andrew Lester - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/11

Joe and Fidel went before us. Led in 5 pitches.
Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Sarah Rolfe, Fidel Sciamanna, Joe Mallia

joemallia - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Tim Rolfe, Sarah Rolfe, Fidel Sciamanna

hazeysunshine - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Sue H

did the winter finish, as was heather's lead, but it was a really nice easy finish, with some good moves
skittles - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Heather Williams

Kaiser999 - May/11 with Derek

aged_ape - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11

Bex_M - AltLd - 29/Apr/11 with Claire Ellwood

Pete did hand traverse, i did the finish which isn't that bad, looks intimidating though. Cold despite the sunshine (which doesn't arrive till 4)
lithos - AltLd - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - 2011

Swirly - 2011

rurp - Lead - 2011

bullybones - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

amthalmann - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Gerard

Easy going until you get to the top which is strenuous for HS (but excellent holds)
GOS - AltLd - 04/Sep/10 with Amanda Thalmann

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/10

Tarquin - Lead - 30/Aug/10 with Ness

Led last & second to last pitches. Used Gibson's Chimney (VS) and when up the fare right slanting chimney.
marcduhig - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Andrew

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/10

Gibsons Chimney was excellent. Final crack is nails, didn't think I'd make it even seconding!
fizzychewitt - AltLd - 27/Jun/10 with Dave

My second climb outside, lead by Garry and Gerrard with LC&CC. great weather, great climb.
Teshiie - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/10

with direct chimney pitch. top pitch is brilliant, maybe a bit hard for hard severe...
david morse - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with owain

Alt leads Andy led 1st then 3 and 4 as a one mine was the 5th pitch; although I bridged up the right hand side of the ledge - couldn't find the hand traverse! Any led the last 2 pitches - no way the last pitch is only HS 4c
gilbert - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Andy Holder

Glyn - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Trystan

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Jun/10

Ows - AltLd - Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10

Hidden - AltLd - 31/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/May/10

matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 15/May/10

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/09

Found a very steady climb until the final crack (orig finish) which was a big change in gear: brutal, like wrestling - with much grunting (def VS). A cracking finale!
jimorothy - AltLd - 18/Sep/09 with Rachel Crolla

did a harder variation of the first pitch cause the real pitch was very wet... other than that easy climbing.. till the last pitch which was well hard! had to rest on gear... defiantly atleast vs if you do the original finish.
adam06 - AltLd - 11/Sep/09 with dan sturman

Took a group of three, leading all pitches. Was drizzling, cold and damp. I found the hand traverse impossible, since the layer of slime on the rock meant there was nothing for the feet, and all that was possible was hand over hand pullups for about 5 metres up the diagonal handrail on polished wet rock. Another party from our group was climbing the pitch above and brought me up on a top rope (basically pulled up!)
Mike Roach - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/09 with Tom Giles

Increasingly wet! Both defeated by soggy hand traverse. Abbed off. Great route.
JohnHutch - AltLd dnf - 27/Aug/09 with MG

Thought the final pitch was a bit tough for the grade, well protected but sustained. I surprised i did it clean too, i normally slide out of this type of thing!
asmith37 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Bex Leigh

Winter Finish. Mike ran 1st 2 pitches together, so I did 3 & 5. The 'Hand Traverse' is overhyped, really it's nowt.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Mike Nuttall

nakedave - Lead - Jul/09

Pitches 1, 2 & 4.
Mike Bayley - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Martin Stevens

With Gibsons Chimney pitch. Nice long route, felt a bit disjointed though.
jezb1 - AltLd - 30/May/09

mike_uk82 - AltLd - 30/May/09

Calder - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09 with Andy Clow

@ndy - AltLd - 02/May/09 with calder

Noodles30 - AltLd - Apr/09 with Joe Sims

Hidden - 27/Sep/08

followed K & J
climbingxcat - AltLd β - 27/Sep/08 with Brian

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Sep/08

Sari Nevala - AltLd - 24/Aug/08

bigpapparen - Solo - Aug/08

great climb great dayout
robo84 - AltLd - 15/Jun/08

Final pitch to finish link.
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Jane Terry

Clive Freaked!
Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Clive

Clivest - 2nd dnf - 08/Jun/08 with Ewan Russell

Finished via Hodgkin's variation
leonjones - AltLd - 07/Jun/08 with Phil Barley and Max Streeton

Winter Finish
sammoore - AltLd O/S - 11/May/08 with Will Sutcliffe

cas54321 - 2nd - May/08 with Mike

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

andybrown114 - 2nd - 05/Oct/07 with Andy Hughes

Certainly not HS when cold and wet, and how come this is the only place I've climbed in Wales which becomes a slime fest when wet? May re-climb in better style when dry!
Caralynh - AltLd - 29/Sep/07 with Dan (dpmuk)

Not nice - slimey and wet. Very, very glad to get to top. Led pitches 1 and 4.
dpmUK - AltLd dog - 29/Sep/07 with Caralynr

the juicy dangler - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/07 with james marjot

With an alternative last pitch!
EAYL - AltLd - 11/Sep/07 with Dr.Strangeglove

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Pete aka Dad

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Helen

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/07

J R R Hartley - 2nd O/S - 05/May/07 with Captain Crag

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/07

highflyeraj - Lead - 28/Apr/07 with Jonny

Hidden - Solo O/S - 14/Apr/07

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Paul

Andrew.Davies - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Matty

brighters - 2007

Sean Kelly - 2007

EAYL - AltLd - 09/Sep/06 with Iain, mike

givemetea - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/06 with Maggie

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 08/Jul/06 with Christian Darr

twodada - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Rich Barnes

Cracking day out, think the last pitch may be VS? Bit confused. Good old fashioned thrutching inelegant but brilliant finish though. Those other boys, Dean Cook and the Asbridge lad, threw their toys out the pram and went for tea and stickies!
mikehenesy - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Chris Lodge

NewLeaf - AltLd - Jun/06 with roslyn

Pelleas - AltLd - 14/Apr/06 with Norman

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/06

mikelaing - 2006

mike kann - 2006

unfit - AltLd - 2006 with john N

Mike - AltLd - 24/Sep/05 with John Naylor

Daigroom - 2nd - Sep/05 with Tim

The Oracle - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/04 with Pete Taylor

Jamie B - AltLd - Jun/04 with Kris Quayle

Hidden - Lead - 11/Oct/03

Tom M Williams - 2nd O/S - Jul/03 with Andy Davies