Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A good direct alternative first pitch on Diagonal. Begin just left of an arete 3m right of High Tide and Green Grass.
1) 5a, 18m. Head straight up the wall on good holds to the tricky wide crack of Diagonal and climb it to the belay.
2) 4c, 20m. Pitch 2 of Diagonal. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Dandruff. Climb straight up the wall on good hold to the slot on Diagonal, and finish as for this route. Not much new climbing but a good direct variation.
FA. Marti Hallett, Debbie Robberts 23/Jul/2012.
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Logged Ascents
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Finale Groove
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)