British sport climbing is going from strength to strength at the moment, with Ryan Pasquill making a very quick repeat of Diamond Dogs, 8c+ at the Diamond on the Little Orme, North Wales. In addition to this, Jordan Buys has made the first ascent of both an 8c and an 8b+.
Pete Robins on Diamond Dogs (8c+), the Diamond, Little Orme. Photo: ©Ray Wood
UKC News, Oct 2012
© Ray Wood
Ryan Pasquill made a very quick repeat of the Diamond's hardest route, Diamond Dogs, 8c+, climbing the route after having one session on it last year and then another three this year. Diamond Dogs was first climbed by Pete Robins in 2012 (UKC News Report). What makes this so impressive is the fact that Ryan lives in Sheffield and the Diamond is a particularly fickle crag to get in good condition due to being very tidal and North facing. Ryan commented on the quality of the route:
"The rock is immaculate with some really nice features on it. It's grey limestone with nice friction when the conditions are right. The moves and sequences work really well."
You can watch a video of Pete Robins on the route below:
Jordan Buys has also been very busy on various crags in Yorkshire, where he has climbed an 8c extension to Illywacker at Giggleswick North. Alladin as Jordan has called it, climbs the 7b+/c Illywacker to its chains then has a 7C/+ boulder problem crux to give an 8c.
In addition to this, Jordan has also climbed an 8b+ extension to Hardy Annual at Kilnsey. The extension was first bolted by Gaz Parry, but then taken over by Jordan a few years ago. Jordan eventually sent the route after many hours of effort repositioning bolts and gluing rattly holds in place, naming the route after Gaz's company Epic Adventures and grading it 8b+.