When it was released in 1998, the film Hard Grit gave us an insight into something we didn't often see - the actual ascents of the hardest, most dangerous lines on grit.
In an era before everyone had a smartphone, before digital photography was even mainstream, many of the photos we saw in the magazines were staged. The hardest lines captured on video were often top-roped reconstructions.
Hard Grit changed that, by virtue of a few lucky coincidences and a lot of hard work. Director Rich Heap had helped Johnny Dawes with some of the editing on his film Best Forgotten Art. Johnny left for a roadtrip in America, and Rich was left with his camera. Without much of a plan he started filming some routes on the grit.
Being a talented climber himself and living with Seb Grieve, Rich had access to the grapevine of some of the boldest and best climbers around. He started to amass some interesting footage. Then one day at Black Rocks he captured the scenes that would bookend the film - Seb's first ascent of Meshuga and Jean-Minh Trin-Thieu's famous lob off Gaia - and he realised he had something special.
With a film on his hands, Rich enlisted the help of Mark Turnbull to act as producer. The pair set about building on his footage. They created a loose storyline around the history of gritstone climbing, presented by Niall Grimes. In the process a new mythology around these ascents was born, which had an international impact.
One of the central themes to the film was the madness of the whole thing. That madness was embodied by Seb Grieve, shouting and talking to himself on the most terrifying ascents. But Seb wasn't mad, he'd practised the routes carefully, he'd made detailed notes about the gear and, crucially, he'd actually looked closely at the "shipwreck" of a flake on Parthian Shot.
Seb is the film's have-a-go hero, but he had a healthy CV of hard ascents already, including early repeats of Braille Trail and Gaia.
In this episode Seb, Niall and Rich recall how Hard Grit came about and how it became a part of the climbing culture it reflected.
Listen to the podcast:
- IN FOCUS: White Gold - A Cultural History of Climbing Chalk 27 Jan, 2022
- PODCAST: Factor Two - S3 Ep.11: Birth Pains of New Nations - Pete Oxley 12 Aug, 2021
- PODCAST: Factor Two - S3 Ep.10: Hateja - Louise Thomas and Glenda Huxter 24 Jun, 2021
- PODCAST: Factor Two - S3 Ep.9: Finding the Balance - Katherine Schirrmacher 23 Mar, 2021
- CRAG NOTES: State of Independence 8 Mar, 2021
- PODCAST: Factor Two - S3 Ep.7: A Play for Voices 16 Sep, 2020
- PODCAST: Factor Two - S3 Ep.6: Brave New World 6 Aug, 2020
- PODCAST: Factor Two - S3 Ep.5: Deep Play 7 Jul, 2020
- PODCAST: Factor Two - S3 Ep.4: Walking the Magic Line 27 May, 2020
- PODCAST: Factor Two - S3 Ep.2 Part 2: The Moment You Doubt - Ben Bransby 14 Apr, 2020
Comments
Would love to see Hard Grit. Anyone know if it's still available to buy anywhere/ pay to watch online, or anyone got a copy they'd part with?
It's not available to stream anywhere at the moment and Rich didn't sound too bothered about it!
I bet there are VHS and DVD copies kicking around in the back of shops somewhere. I "loaned" mine to a friend who I think sleeps with it under his pillow. I ask him about it regularly but it's never been forthcoming.
Maybe we need a UKC exchange service? Like those phone boxes that have been turned into libraries. We can stash a few copies behind the remains of the flake on Parthian Shot, under a rock near New Statesman and stick in a few copies of One Summer and Best Forgotten Art too.
I could listen to Seb and Niall all day. Seem like a right couple of wankers but wankers you'd love to be mates with.
I'm surprised it hasn't ended up on Youtube if nobody is bothered about the rights/sales etc.
I have an mp4 burned from the DVD which I purchased (I should also still have the DVD in a file somewhere). Would be happy to upload it if the copyright owners gave permission.