One of the major crags in Yorkshire and hence the world, Ilkley is most well known for its trad climbing, but like many such venues it's developed over the years into a well-rounded bouldering destination too, with old-school training problems on the huge Calf boulder, traverses, quarried finger-shedders and crowd-pleasing necky highballs, all never far from a brew in the cafe.
Being a magnet for the general public the area is very busy with non-climbers too, so you need to have banter at the ready to answer the usual questions; yes these mattresses are for when we fall off, no you can't do it with gloves on, and yes you do have to be a bit bonkers to go up there.
Ilkley generally has a north-facing aspect although it is a multi-faceted crag, and hence you can often find shade or sun to suit, and it's very possible to climb here all year. In fact Ilkley offers a certain degree of utility in that the bottom part of the overhanging face of The Calf can stay dry in light rain, and offers shade during warm weather. When the cold north or easterly wind blows in it can be bitter, although you'll need good cold conditions for the harder problems, so wrap up warm in winter.
If there's a fly in the ointment of the main Ilkley area it's that historic chipping has blighted some of the main buttresses, and the rock can be an odd combination of both slippery AND sharp. However, the more recent development of Rock Valley as a bouldering destination, a mere 20 minutes walk over the moor, offers a refreshing alternative. Here you find finer grained rock of impressive quality, along with a near complete absence of chipped holds (with only a few exceptions).
Ilkley is easiest to access via the A65 running between Otley and Skipton. Turn off this road via any of the roads signposted to the town centre, then look out for signs for Ilkley Moor. Almost all of Ilkley Moor, including Rocky Valley and the main Ilkley crag area is designated as open access land under the CRoW Act, so access is not an issue.
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From Quarry To Cow
Spread across the slope left of the Cow, immediately uphill from the main parking, is a mixed circuit of mainly friendly mid-grade problems of a vertical flavour, with a handful of harder (and higher) ones thrown in, along with a few lines at the base of the huge looming hulk of The Cow to perhaps tempt you to put a rope on.
Although you have to contend with all the litter and daft comments that come with the territory there can't be many venues boasting both old fashioned chipped and quarried lines and rounded natural grit in such close proximity, so get stuck in. Don't miss the separate quarry above the pub (home to Wreckedangle (f6B+)), or the lone boulder above the crag either (Bah'tat Traverse (f6C)).
The Calf
Back in the day this was one of the standout destinations in Yorkshire bouldering, but today the main overhanging Calf face tends to come in and out of fashion, depending on your tolerance for the dark arts of the tight line, the linkup and the eliminate - all great options for developing nasty finger strength if you can't face going indoors and not to be sniffed at!
Dragging huge numbers of pads the short distance from your car opens up possibilities of taming some of the tall old-school frighteners, both on the main face and around every side of the block. A big boulder for big memories.
Right Of The Cow & Calf
Moving around right from the Cow and Calf there lies a scattered jumble of boulders and small buttresses, offering some of the purer bouldering offerings at Ilkley.
Home to a few genuine hard classics, mainly with good grassy landings, there are some great natural rock features to enjoy, although sadly tarnished by ancient chipped holds in places - at least you can have fun eliminating these. Further around right the hidden bay of Olicana Arete is worth seeking out, and Back Quarry is worth remembering about, especially to catch some warming rays of sun on cold winter days.
The Ilkley Bar Kid Left-hand (f6B+)
Rocky Valley
For a complete change from the normal Ilkley circuit, Rocky Valley is a great option to have in your back pocket, with a slightly different sheltered aspect and a local micro-climate far removed from the main crag. The rock feels completely different too - finer grained and less harsh on the tips, for the most part.
Friendly grassy landings are, however, thin on the ground (pun intended). Landings are generally a bit more complicated than at Ilkley proper, so come equipped with a few pads to get the best out of the lines on offer.
Guidebook
Ilkley's bouldering is covered in the Rockfax Digital app. The most recent print guide is the YMC's Yorkshire Gritstone Volume 2 from 2014 and Northern Rock from 2022, both of which cover the trad climbing but also have extensive bouldering content. If you can find one second-hand the 1999 Rockfax Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering coverage still holds up remarkably well for the long-established classics.
Other Areas
In the unlikely event that you run out of things to do at Ilkley, you won't have to travel far to find more. The likes of Caley and Shipley Glen are excellent options a mere 15–20 minutes drive away, but there are outcrops providing more bouldering, away from the crowds, all around the rim of Ilkley Moor itself, and even the odd quarry. With particularly rich pickings to be found on the north edge of the moor, west of the main Ilkley crag, keen aficionados of esoterica, or just a bit of peace and quiet, should find themselves well catered for by the likes of Windgate Nick, Swastika Stones, and Ilkley Buckstones.
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