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MAY COVER STORIES INCLUDE:-
- The Eiger Tiger - The North Face in 3hrs - Swiss super-alpinist Ueil Steck clocks in a blistering time!
- Lundy - Stunning photos of Britain's best sea cliff climbing
- F8c SOLO - MacLeod: "Training for my Nevis project"
- Plus check out this month's Stomping Ground in Chamonix and 'you can climb corners' in our Technique Series.
This month's edition includes a FREE James Pearson poster!
UELI STECK BREAKS SPEED RECORD SECOND YEAR IN A ROW
The Eiger has always been something of a theatre for Alpine showmanship and records are well documented. The first (and little-known) one-day ascent of the famous '38 Route took place as long ago as 1950, but it was in 1969 that Peter Habeler and Reinhold Messner turned the world of Alpinism upside down by racing up the climb in an astonishing 10 hours. This was an achievement light years ahead of its time and remained more or less unbeaten by a roped pair until very recently: Roger Schäli and Hanspeter Hug knocked two hours off the record in October 2007.
Not content with that, on the 28th January this year, Schäli with Simon Anthamatten, both from Switzerland, climbed the classic 1938 route on the North Face of the Eiger in just six hours and 50 minutes.
When Anthamatten stepped onto the face in January, he had previously never
made a complete ascent of the 1938 Route, although Schäli knew the terrain in
detail, having climbed it nine times already. Filmgoers will immediately recognise
Anthamatten and Schäli as the actors playing Andreas Hinterstoisser and Toni
Kurz in Joe Simpson's film, The Beckoning Silence, which documents the wellknown
and tragic attempt on the North Face by four young Austro-Germans, two
years before the eventual first ascent.
FREE Mountain INFO downloads at Climb Magazine
Mountain INFO is now exclusively available on-line via the Climb Magazine website FREE!! This internationally acclaimed resource has been added to our extensive online 'Archives' as a fully downloadable pdf. You will be able to view and print off Mountain INFO at the touch of a button, 24/7 via the Climb website at www.climbmagazine.com
For over 35 years Mountain INFO has been the essential place to research Alpinism, big walls and mountaineering expeditions throughout the world. An intrinsic part of Climb Magazine, Mountain INFO is edited by the well known and respected mountaineer, Lindsay Griffin, who uses his worldwide contacts, built up over many years - to bring first-class information and quality images to you. Now, to enable you to access this massive resource more easily we are making it freely available online. Search for places of interest to plan your next expedition and keep yourself up-to-date with what is happening in the world of mountaineering.
Log on and access every Mountain INFO published in Climb Magazine since March 2005. As with all of our 'Archives', we will continue to add to this section, eventually including the early days of High Mountain Sports.
MOUNTAIN INFO SUMMARY
Still a subject of controversy and debate, the official winter season in Nepal runs from the 1st December - 15th February, dates that contrast significantly with the generally accepted Northern Hemisphere calendar winter that spans the 21st December - 20th March. The following ascents and attempts are those that are known to have taken place during the official 2006-2007 winter: perhaps only the second winter ascent - in Alpine style by two Koreans - of the North East Ridge of Kwangde Shar; an impressive almost complete ascent of the difficult Lhotse South Face, where members of a strong Japanese expedition were forced to stop on the summit ridge; an ascent and tragedy on Ama Dablam, and the first calendar winter ascent of Tawoche's East Ridge - by an American team.
The highest mountains in Mongolia lie in the remote Tabun Bogdo, a compact group of snow and ice peaks that form part of the Altai Range. Here, British climbers braved harsh conditions and low temperatures to make the first winter ascent of the North Ridge of Huiten, the country's highest mountain.
This report covers events in Patagonia's Torres del Paine National Park. Apart from the first winter crossing of the Hielo Patagonico Norte, all ascents took place during the 2006-07 austral summer season. These include: an impressive second ascent of Golazo on the Central Tower of Paine by a strong primarily-Russian team; the shennanigans needed to make the first BASE jump in the Park, also from the Central Tower; a valiant British attempt on a new route up the South Tower, the longawaited second ascent of La Escoba de Dios on the East Face of Cerro Catedral, new French routes on Cuernos Norte and Trono Blanco, and a fine, new, predominantely-free route on Cerro Cota 2000 by a powerful Italian party.
Route photodiagrams in this issue include Lhotse South Face, Tawoche,
Huiten, Central Tower of Paine and Cerro Cota 2000. There is also a large
panorama of all the Paine Towers and a sketch map of the region.
Read the full 13 page report free at www.climbmagazine.com
Kenton Cool and Nick Bullock – Stomping Grounds - Chamonix
Brodie's Folly (II, 4) Mont Dolent by Nick Bullock
”It looks steep and difficult and unprotected” I announced to Jonny Baird, turning to him grinning I finished “but I will fall before quitting.” Bairdy stood at a step kicked into the snow-cone butting up to the base of the Pré de Bar. I teetered on the edge of the Bergschrund near the Charlet route on the North Face of Dolent and hacked at soft overhanging snow.
I had checked out this unclimbed line three years previously and not returned until now. Behind me, the morning glow lit ripples of snow layered like a carpet and compressed by some of the range's most striking mountains. My first Alpine climb had been here in the Argentière basin 12 years previous. I recalled the wonder and excitement I had felt at the time.
Belayed at the base of a shallow gully, Bairdy climbed to me, grabbed the gear and continued into the orange thinly-iced-fault above. Unbeknown to both of us, the crux of the climb had already been completed on pitch one. Iced-bulging-corners, choked-chimneys, folds with squeaky thinly-sprayed-nèvè, had turned my desperate unclimbed test piece into an extended version of Green Gully on Ben Nevis. Bairdy's face shone like a full moon with every swing of the axe.
“Sorry Bullock, I guess you're not going to get your fight today.”
“Never mind eh, it is a new route.”
Grip is key, whether you're screeching round a tightening bend at the limit of adhesion, high up on a mountain pass in the Alps, a 2000 foot plummet waiting for you to lose traction and burst through the wall and soar into the bright morning air on a delirious parabolic arc of doom... or climbing.
Your rock-body interface occurs at mainly four points (unless you're sat on your smug arse at the top watching your mate struggle on the crux that you've just cruised – don't you just love that?). Forget about your feet – they're for sissies. Your hands are the most important part of the equation and to climb really hard you need the strength of a pair of mole grips – you can have biceps the size of bulldozers and lats like Batman but if you ain't got grip you ain't got shit.
Your grip is controlled by the relatively small muscles in your forearm which is good news from a training point of view – it means you can train them using relatively small equipment – like these hand exercisers. and you can use them virtually anywhere – in the classroom, in lectures, in bored, sorry, board meetings, converting down-time to training time.
We thrust five grippy things at our tame tester to grapple with.
Some say he's got hands like a bunch of melons and his mum tells
him not to squeeze the pips else they'll take somebody's eye out. All
we know is that he's called the Sprag...
WIN - Wild Country Elite Ultralite Harness & Infinity Sprint 9.2 worth £170!
The Infinity Sprint 9.2 was used by James Pearson on the first ascent of 'The Groove' E10 7a, Cratcliffe, and the Elite Ultralite Harness is the latest from Wild Country.
1st, 2nd and 3rd place prizes are up for grabs in the May issue! Terms & conditions apply.
Competitions at www.climbmagazine.com
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