Hubers on the Nose: 2:45:45 Video And Photos

© Heinz Zack
On October 8th the Huber brothers, Alex (38) and Thomas (40), climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 2 hours 45 minutes 45 seconds, breaking their own speed record set four days previously by over 3 minutes. They travelled up the Nose at 6.1m per minute

Huberbaum at the Tree
© Max Reichl and Heinz Zack

On October 4th they managed 2 hours 48 minutes 35 seconds beating the 2002 record set by Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama by 20 seconds, although initially there was some confusion over Florine and Hirayama's record time which had been reported at 2:48:30 and 2:48:55 which it transpired are both correct; the first time being the time it took Hirayama to get to the final tree and the second time being Florine's time to the final tree. On this first attempt the Huber's dropped an aider which slowed them down.

On the Huberbuam's second attempt on October 8th they took a back-up aider with them, which in any event they didn't need.

High on the Nose. © Heinz Zack

This Fall the Bavarian-born brothers spent four weeks in Yosemite National Park, California, preparing for the attempt and making numerous dummy runs on the face. “We started the whole project exactly two years ago,” Alexander explains. “Due to accidents and injuries we failed twice, so it cost a lot of motivation to come back and give it another try.”

“We climbed the route again and again in order to know the moves and tactical tricks as well as to gain the necessary endurance,” said Alexander Huber.

“California's Indian Summer offers the best conditions for climbers,” he continues. “There is no rain and the temperatures are just perfect.”

The Nose was first climbed in 1958 by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore in 47 days using "siege" tactics: climbing in an expedition style using fixed ropes along the length of the route, linking established camps along the way. The first ascent of The Nose in one day was accomplished in 1975 by John Long, Jim Bridwell and Billy Westbay. In 1993 Lynn Hill free climbed the Nose. A year later she returned free climbing the Nose in a day.

Speed. © Max Reichl

The Nose Speed Record - starting

The Nose Speed Record - King Swing

The Nose Speed Record - to the Stovelegs

The Nose Speed Record - Stovelegs to KingSwing

The Nose Speed Record - Camp4 to Top

Huberbaum Begin
© Max Reichl

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

19 Oct, 2007
On the extract on the front page the first letter is missing (T)
19 Oct, 2007
Thanks es, sorted.
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest