Eliot Stephens, author of the new guidebook Swiss Select - Ticino's Best Bouldering, gives us a rundown of the very best boulders in the home of Swiss bouldering, Ticino.

Ticino is the showpiece of Swiss bouldering, and outside of Fontainebleau, perhaps Europe's best bouldering area! For decades, the areas of Chironico, Cresciano and Brione have been at the forefront of the world bouldering scene. Read on to find out what makes this area just so incredible, and a worthy destination for your next European climbing trip!

Ticino is a canton (region) based in the south of Switzerland, just over an hour north of Milan. It comprises of three main bouldering areas; Chironico, Cresciano and Brione. Each of these have a unique setting, rock type and a subtly different climbing style, but all share the supreme quality of Swiss bouldering! So, what makes Switzerland so good?

History

Bouldering in Ticino dates back to the mid 1980s, when a group of sport climbers climbing at Cresciano saw potential in the fallen boulders under the cliffs.

In the decades that followed, bouldering would explode in Cresciano, but also extend into two other areas, Chironico and Brione. In the year 2000, legendary Swiss climber Fred Nicole made the first ascent of the world's first 8C/V15 boulder, Dreamtime. This ascent brought Swiss bouldering into the bouldering limelight, and the area hasn't been the same since. Bouldering in Ticino has continued to grow year on year, with more boulders being developed, zones being found, and world class lines being climbed. In 2022, Shawn Raboutou made headlines by climbing Switzerland's first 9A/V17 boulder, and one of very few at the time, Alphane. But don't be fooled, it's far from just hard boulders that Ticino offers, with thousands in the 5th, 6th and 7th grade, of just as impressive quality!

What's on Offer

The three main areas of Chironico, Cresciano and Brione certainly have their own characters and styles, and as such often make for a lovely combined trip. From Bellinzona, you can be in Brione in 45 minutes, Cresciano in 15, and Chironico in 35. However, you could just as easily spend a whole trip in one of these areas, such is the volume of climbing to do in them! Each area has over 1000 boulder problems, with Chironico being the largest with well over 2000 boulder problems.

Cresciano

Nestled on the hillside above the village of Cresciano, this area is Ticino's original bouldering area. With views up the valley to Biasca, and down to Bellinzona, it's a picturesque spot for your first Swiss bouldering experience. The climbing at Cresciano is the most technical of the three areas, with generally fewer options for feet, and more sloping holds. The climbing style combines aspects of Gritstone, Granite and even bits of sandstone. The lines are what make Cresciano special in my opinion, with classic features at all grade ranges, from the brilliant rising arête Un Uomo un Perchè (f6A), all the way to the overhung fridge of Lur, (8B+).

The approach to Cresciano is an initially steep one, with a roughly 20 minute walk up the steps from the village. Once you arrive at the plateau, Icaro's Step (f6A+) (6A) is a brilliant introduction, and puts you right in the spot for the best views! Just behind that, Ganimede (f5) (5+) offers a great flowing traverse line, while Vol au Vent (f7A) certainly ups the ante with a powerful pull off a poor crimp at 7A! From here, a slice of history can be found right at your back, with the powerful roof climb La Grotte des Soupirs (f7C+), which before its downgrade was the first 8A in Ticino.

Further along the single path along the hillside, classics such as Never Ending Story (f6B+) (6C) and Harry Spotter (f7A) (7A+) await; the latter of which contains a dyno up a slab to a small crimp. Amazing stuff. The stand start to Android (f6C+) is also a brilliant piece of climbing just beside the path. For those looking to get into crimp mode, the awesome Kirk Windtain (f8A+) (8A), or techy Il Partner (f7C) are great options.

For those operating in the 8's, look no further than old school classics such as La Boule (8A), and La Proue (f8B), both superb technical but powerful boulders on holds that would often be considered large for the grade.

Finally, Dreamtime (f8C) is perhaps Cresciano's final exam, and along with The Story of Two Worlds (f8C), make for a pair of boulders of totally contrasting style, from two icons of bouldering history, Fred Nicole and Dave Graham.

Chironico

Just 25 minutes north west from Cresciano, is the area of Chironico. Chironico is the largest area of Ticino, with its 2000+ climbs spread out over around a dozen individual zones, littered across the hillside surrounding the village. Chironico is characterised by some beautiful landscapes with views down the valley to Biasca. The area hosts some of the more basic crimp climbing that Ticino has to offer, with a style which rewards finger strength! Each zone has different rock, and a different atmosphere. From the smooth river washed rock at Schattental zone, to the quiet and more forbidding Delusion of Grandeur area with its coarse crimps, all the way to the roadside and sunny Paese zone which features some of the more comfortable rock the area hosts.

Whilst many people initially view Chironico as 'the hard area' of Ticino, due to its many classic hard boulders, it in fact contains some of Chironico's best lower and mid grade boulders, perfect for groups or family days out. The formerly mentioned Paese and Grumo zones of Chironico are sizeable, and contain a huge array of classics in the 5's, 6's and 7's. Highlights include the steep ramp line of Die Roboter (f6A) (5+), the technical slab of Border Line (f7A) as well as Make mistake (f6A+) and the powerful Sloper Attack (aka Number One) (f7A). It is easy to find yourself quickly passing an afternoon with 'joy of climbing' mileage on the huge selection of 5's and 6's in the sun at Paese, even trying the odd crimpy 7A which tempts you!

For those looking for the classic 7's and 8's, Confession of a Crap Artist (f7C) is a stunning tall and technical Dave Graham classic, whilst Brechstange (Eisprung RH) (f7C) is a vertical wall offering a pure test of crimp strength! Freak Brothers (f8A) is perhaps one of the best 8A's in the world, and Miss Schweiz (f8A+) a plumb line up a steep wave of overhanging gneiss.

There is certainly no shortage of world class crimp lines to go at, the hardest of which would be the stunning Forgotten Gem (f8C). It often coincides that the areas with the harder boulders often have the harder approaches, with some zones such as Boogalagga and Nivo having more uneven landings and tracks through the boulders. These areas however, also often have the most impressive boulders in the mid 7's, such as the incredible wall Made in Norway (f7B) (7B+), and the classic high wall Triangolo (f6C+) (6C+). Fengshui Masters (f7A) is perhaps the best of its grade in Chironico, with some tough crimpy and balance climbing up a faint groove.

Chironico is also blessed with some of the most reliable wet weather climbing venues possibly in Europe, with some enormous boulders offering steep and sheltered areas of climbing. The Senza Denti boulder contains a range of drop off problems, mostly in the 6's and low 7s, with the Arabald boulder offering some more gymnastic and steep crimp boulders in the mid 7's. Finally, the Alphane boulder gives even the strongest climber in the crew something to do on the rainy days!

Brione

When many people picture bouldering in Switzerland, Brione is what they imagine. A crystal clear river running down from a snow capped mountain provides the defining feature for Brione's bouldering. Located deep in the Verzasca valley, Brione has some of the world's most pristine rock in an idyllic setting that'll make you never want to leave. The finely grained gneiss rock has enough friction to keep you stuck to the rock, but not too much as to become sharp or uncomfortable. The climbing is a mix of many styles, from thin slabs and technical mantles, to steep and gymnastic boulders on better holds.

The Ganne area is a perfect starting point for any day's climbing here, with a short approach and some excellent lower grade boulders adjacent to the river. La Piattosa (f6B) is a steep rising line up a stunning little bloc, while King Slab (f6A+) (6A) provides a great chance to get your footwork in check. The slab main event here is There is No Spoon (f7B) (7A+), an iconic frictionless and holdless slab, washed by years of powerful river flow. What it lacks in holds, it makes up for in technical and rewarding movement.

For those looking to pull on some holds, Bach Bloc (f7B+) is a tall classic, with a brilliant sequence of undercut climbing through a crack to start, followed by an airy finish on better holds. For those in the 8's, Entwash is one of the zone's best examples, with powerful moves on some smooth sloping edges. If a morning in the Ganne zone isn't enough to tire you out, a short drive up to the village opens up more potential.

From here, another section of riverside boulders holds classics such as Fake Pamplemousse (f8A) and Dosage Jump (6C+). But perhaps the prime spot in Brione is the meadow. A 10 minute walk uphill from the village leads up to a green meadow with forest and hillside flanking it, revealing just enough in the way of boulders to tempt you into the woods. Here is where Brione delivers its best, with gems such as Brione Arete (6B) with its technical arete climbing with a beautiful backdrop, the 5-star Molonk (f7C) and the awe inspiring Cellar Door (f8A)—the latter of which should be high up on any 8A climber's list!

If the difficulty here isn't enough for you, the Vecchio Leone boulder—a 5 minute walk away—hosts not only one of the best 8B's in the world, Vecchio Leone (f8B), but a trio of boulders above 8B+! Once you're finished with a session, pop straight into the village pizzeria for a victory meal. If you've experienced a full day in Brione checking out the different zones, you'll have earned it.

Logistics

There are many airports within reasonable (sub 4 hour) driving distance from Ticino. Milan is perfect, as it usually has cheaper flights, rental cars and is only an hour and a half drive up to Bellinzona (a great base for a trip to each of the three main areas). Zurich and Basel are also good, if often a little more expensive options. If renting a car outside Switzerland, it is worth remembering that many rental companies charge a cross border fee. You will also need to pay for the Swiss Vignette (a road tax permit) to drive on Swiss motorways, which is 40 francs at the time of writing and is valid for the calendar year.

The number of crash pads required will depend a lot on the zone and boulder you visit. In general, 2 crash pads will be a minimum for most climbs, with some of the higher or more awkward landings requiring 3 or more. Cresciano and Brione both have potential for a nice lower grade circuit using 1 pad.

For families, parts of Cresciano and Brione are suitable, as well as the Paese sector of Chironico which has some flat space and fewer hazards.

The areas are far enough away from each other to often have some differing weather, which is often useful for seeking out dry rock on a questionable day. For a rest day however, Bellinzona has some brilliant castles and architecture to explore. The Splash and Spa at Tamaro makes a great day out, and of course, Alpha Boulder Giubiasco is a super welcoming local climbing wall to visit on a rainy climbing day!

When to Go

For Chironico and Brione, autumn and spring are a good middle ground of cool conditions, and a lower risk of snow. October, November, February and March are usually the optimal months for these areas, but September and April can be fine too, especially if you like things a little on the warmer side! During December and January, the elevation of 700–800 metres and less sun in these areas will result in pretty cold conditions, and often snowfall which renders the boulders unclimbable for days on end.

For Cresciano, conditions are at their grippiest in December and January, where the area does also get sun until around 3pm. During spring and autumn it can be harder to find the best conditions, but still perfectly fine to enjoy a trip—just be selective about what time you climb to seek out the best conditions.

Accommodation

The town of Bellinzona makes a great accommodation hub for visiting the three areas, and has many apartments available to rent. To visit individual areas, it is possible to find accommodation closer to the area you're interested in, and base there. It is still possible to stay in vans in these areas, but it is becoming more regulated and it is now required to pay in some areas.

Food and Supplies

The town of Bellinzona again provides access to everything you could need in terms of food, washing, or access to amenities.

Outdoor Shops

Crash Pad Rental: Martin Keller (@swizzybouldering on Instagram)

Climbing Walls

Alpha Boulder Giubiasco

Guidebooks

Swiss Select - Ticino's Best Bouldering - See below

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Guidebook

Swiss Select - Ticino's Best Bouldering

Buy here - https://swissselect.bigcartel.com/products

Swiss Select is a select bouldering guidebook to the three main areas of Ticino, Switzerland.

Brione, Cresciano and Chironico host some of the world’s best and most famous boulder problems, and Swiss Select details over 1200 of the best climbs in these areas, with grades from Font 3 to 9A, and over 600 boulders up to 6C+.

With high quality topographical images, and inspiring action shot photography from some of the world’s best climbing photographers, this book aims to inform and inspire visitors to Ticino.

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