UKC

My First Outdoor Lead (79) - A Sense of Freedom

© H.Carlin
photo
Another natural drainpipe that I couldn’t resist! (Yarncliffe Quarry)
© H.Carlin

Pythagoras was probably a clever man. But he got one thing very wrong. The Hypotenuse is not a mathematical equation formulated by a Greek but the name of a route at Bamford Edge and it is the route that I first lead.

Starting to lead is a monumental milestone in one's climbing career. No longer is one finding oneself straining helplessly to reach some unattainable...or non-existent....handhold. Nor is one left to dangle like a soap-on-a-rope simply because one has lost the will to look for a foothold. No, leading is about reviving your sense of adventure. It is about taking your own approach to a route. Stepping outside your comfort zone. Sensing the danger but then facing it head-on.

I was going to lead 'Hypotenuse' because it was high time I should take the plunge. I should stop being an observer and start being my own boss. (Plus it had a good name). These were the high-powered (and perhaps irrelevant) thoughts going through my head as I proudly clipped the gear to my harness.

However as I approached the route I felt a certain sense of foolishness. My confident step faltered. I questioned myself whether I really needed a rope. I wondered if the others thought I was slightly odd for choosing what was essentially a natural drainpipe for my first lead. Nevertheless I collared one of the group to belay me and I set off confidently.

The first thing I noticed was how heavy I felt carrying all the equipment as I dragged myself up to the first ledge. Despite the route...I now admit...being only 8m (yes, okay, I forgot to mention to mention the grade too – mod), I had been laden down with every imaginable piece of climbing gear I could possibly need.....for the Alps.

When I got to the top I feverishly arranged the belay as I had been taught so that the second climber could come up. Admittedly I was a little disappointed when I looked over the edge to shout 'climb when ready' only to find that he was already scaling the great route with only a chalk bag for company.

However I was just glad to achieve my ambition. I had found, half way up, that yes, indeed a rope was needed. I had found a large crack to put some gear in and I had felt the satisfaction of knowing that, had I fallen, the gear was secure enough to hold me. Finally, and most importantly, I had felt the freedom and spirit of adventure that only a traditional leader can feel.

dmm-writing_comp

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE


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